Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: Starting To Leak Just Sitting In The Driveway - Water Pump Replacement
Oct 7, 2015
So the water pump on my early 99 (158k miles) is starting to leak just sitting in the driveway, did a little research last night and read a few write ups. Just wondering if any tips or tricks I could use to make this go easier. Also any list of parts I should replace and/or might need. I read on one write up about replacing it with an Airtex water pump and was wondering about what people thought of those, I would rather fix it right then just go with the cheapest parts. Possibly there are better brand water pumps out there?
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How hard is the water pump to replace on 1999 f250 7.3 ...
Any thing special i need to know before tackling this job ...
Also is there any step by step instructions ???
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Need to identify possible oil leak location. Went through 6 quarts of oil in a couple months. Moderate oil drip on the driveway. Ford dealership said the leak was definitely from one of the high pressure oil hoses but that didn't fix the entire problem. Took it back to the dealership and they diagnosed the problem as "LH HP Oil A Head Leaking Replaced" installed a new elbow fitting. Still leaking.... They are trying to be conservative in their approach however the leak is starting to become an irritant Just want the problem solved. Any probabilities where the oil leak could be coming from?
'99 F350 SD 7.3L, 225,000 mi, 4x4, XCAB
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My water pump went out. Besides the obvious replacing the pump is there anything else I should do while making the repair?
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I have a 99 SD 7.3 with 210K miles. It has the OE water pump, clutch and fan. I am replacing every thing from pump to fan including pulley, thermostat and sensor. The question is can every thing be removed as a unit? I don't see why not but never did one that way.
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Okay a little update on my truck not starting, and for those who have not read my earlier post. My water in fuel light has been on in my truck for probably a month of use. I drained the water sep under the truck nonstop and added several bottles of water remover and the light would not go out so I assumed the sensor was just bad. (im new to owning a powerstroke btw) I broke down coming home from work, got it towed home, and still cant get it started. It will crank fine just wont fire up. I tried unplugging the ICP, i replaced the CPS, and ordered a new water sep/ fuel filter for under the truck. And the fuel filter on top was just replaced a month before breaking down. Every single time i drain the separator tons of clear water diluted fuel comes out before it turns greenish.
Not sure if this could be a cause of getting water in my fuel but one time i filled the truck up completely and it was like the water overfilled and probably a quart or two of fuel spewed out onto the ground. Not sure where it came from. Also I have just over a quarter tank so i was thinking maybe the float broke and I just needed to add fuel but today before i went to add fuel i drained the sep and tons of water came out... Im so worried about hydrolocking my engine or ruining my injectors. But I dont know if my issue even is water related if the sensor just went bad...
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I've got a water leak in to the cab of my truck. I have a 1999 with the Super cab. I'm pretty sure it is at the back wall of the cab. There are two rectangular (I guess) vents that duct to the out side. The floorboard is not wet, but the very bottom of the carpet on the passenger side is. What are these vents for? We've had a lot of rain, I figure that's where the water is coming from. What is an easy fix this.
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I have a 2001 F250 Super Duty V8 7.3 L. I removed the water-pump then waited five days for the oring for the new pump. I installed it and now the truck will not start. I have drained the fuel water separator and replaced the filter. On the passengers side through the kick panel I found that button popped out so I pushed it back in and still it will not run. It acts like its not getting fuel but if my fuel water separator is filing up I'm assuming mu fuel pump is working??
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Looking for the Ford (or even Dorman) part number for the Water-in-Fuel sensor that bolts to the outside of the fuel bowl?
Guzzle has it pictured here:
The water sensor tip on mine is badly corroded and eaten away.
What's a part number and who sells them that I can get it delivered next day?
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So I tried to replace my thermostat and housing and the housing bolt snapped off. Ok so I tried to extract that bolt off and the extractor bolt snapped off inside. I am guessing it might just be easiest to replace the water pump now? I am pretty much at the end of my mechanical rope which is short anyhow.
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I read 18lbs for the water pump but it took a cheater bar (perhaps due to corrosion) to get the water pump lower elbow bolts off.
On reinstallation, what should the lower elbow bolts be torqued to? Checked the sticky (Ziggy's Torque Specs) but didn't see the specs for this item.
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My oil pan has rusted through and is beginning to leak. Can replace a 7.3L oil pan without pulling the engine? It looks like if I remove the turbo and fan clutch, I should have enough clearance to lift the engine several inches and get the pan to clear the crossmember. Or would it be easier to just pull the engine?
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I have a 2001 F250 Crew Cab with Powerstroke. The dash lights are starting to go out one at a time. How do I get to and replace the bulbs?
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How common is it for the hpop to leak from the round piece behind the pump next to the drain bolt? Its on a 2000 f350 7.3.
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I have a very small fuel leak in my 2001 F-250. I was going to just let it go until I needed to do other work (since I get 20mpg city and 25mpg highway), but I went to a "new" inspection guy, and he flunked me. So now I have to fix it. And for all I know, my mpg and fifteen other things will break when I try to fix this.
Today I spent 4 hours in the heat putting in two new o-rings on the water separator valve. But the truck still leaks fuel. Climbed up on top of motor while it was running and looked, but I don't see where the fuel is leaking out.
Online research suggests to me that the next most-likely culprit is a steel fuel line that wears through from vibration and chafing. Is that correct?
This truck is so eaten up with rust (came from salt belt) that I bought a LOT of fuel line stuff a year or so ago, so that when things started falling apart from rust, I would have the parts on hand.
Now I'm wondering whether I already have the part I'm likely to need.
So far, I have bought:
1. Dorman Fuel Supply and Return Lines
2. Riff Raff Diesel High Pressure Crossover (HPx)
3. Riff Raff Diesel Fuel Rail Crossover (FRx)
So my question is, am I likely to have something to replace the part that commonly leaks on these trucks due to vibration/wear/chafing ... or will I still need to buy another part?
I'm thinking that one of the two lines in item #1 above is the problem child...
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Just finished installing a new water pump on my 2002 Elantra GT when...
I went to start it, and it started for half a second and died. Further attempts to start were strained.
The battery is showing 12.58 volts on the multimeter so this was likely not the cause. I checked the fuses under the hood which all looked good. I don't know if it could be a relay or anything else electrical.
Other than the electrical side, there are two things I can think of that may be the cause.
First, being in a hurry to finish(which is probably the biggest mistake of all) I reconnected the battery too soon and wound up connecting the ground(I thought) wire to the alternator for a second causing an arc. I immediately removed the wire and followed proper procedures to reinstall it.
The only other thing I can think of is that one of the water pump bolts required removal of the idler pulley. The idler pulley demands the loosening of the timing belt tensioner in order to be reinstalled. Before removing anything I marked the position of the timing belt on the camshaft sprocket as well as the crankshaft sprocket so I'm really hoping I haven't lost timing.
Could it be something electrical? Did I over-tighten a belt or pulley? Is it timing?
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I am in the process of replacing my water pump. After I removed the pump, I found quite a bit of metal-on-metal wear between the impeller and the water pump housing. Is this common?
I've been running a coolant filter on my system for years now, so hopefully its been effective at collecting some of the metal that has clearly been worn away. Either that, or this is a sign that the filter isn't working at all!
I'm a little worried that the new pump will scrape the scars left from the old pump.
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09 Toyota Corolla 75,000 miles. The garage where I have my car serviced 2X a year (oil change, minor tune-up at 7K miles) says the water pump is starting to leak. I haven't noticed anything, but the mechanics suggest a $600 repair. First, is this a common problem with my model car? Second, is the estimated fee appropriate? Is the car or am I in any immediate danger (how long can I put this off)? I've only been going to this garage for a couple years as my previous CarTalk-referred mechanic retired. I'm not sure whether to trust the new guys (no longer a single individual, but a group of mechanics in a middle class residential suburban neighborhood).
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So when driving my tuck the steering on it would sorta lock up like it wanted to push the truck to one side then it would free up and the steering would be real loose it just felt like it had no power steering to one side it's not the same side each time and it pulses when I'm at a stop if I move the the tires Erving the motor doesn't seem to work so far I have replaced ball joints and all tie rods they needed done anyways it would still do it got an alignment done last week and it almost seems worse now could just be coincidence.
I'm thinking power steering pump but when the steering locks up to one side I'm also wondering if it's the steering box it's kinda hard to explain it what's going on and there is no popping noise or anything when the steering frees up. It's kinda scary on the freeway when I go around a corner the steering gets real loose and wonders back and forth not all the time but quit a bit but when going strait it will feel like it wants to pull to one side then the steering will loosen up again. The steering will wine only first thing in the morning when I pull out of the driveway then it's fine
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Resealed HPOP, reinstalled, started right up, ran for good half hr, shut it down, started it next day, ran for 15 min. Revved it up, n all that, good to go, took it for a spin around block, died as pulling into driveway. At crank Dashcmd shows 200 psi on HPOP. I'm double checking the gear bolt right now. When I installed the pump I seated the gear by hand n torqued bolt to spec, so idk...
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1st major problem on my 72,000 mile 2011 F350 is an oil leak that has gotten worse in a short time.. I've been putting it off as I can't be without my truck as I use it for my business but I have to take it in as its leaking pretty bad and leaving its mark on every driveway I pull into,going to take it in the morning to get diagnosed,going to have the exhaust smell in cab during regen looked at also as its been a problem for sometime time now but have just have delt with it till now. Here is a pic of the leak...
Where it may be coming from? Looks like its coming from the top side somewhere..
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