I just got done changing a/c clutch on a 96 f-350 5.8 because it was making a lot of noise. The new one is just as bad. Would the air gap cause this? When I took it off I could see it was hitting the pulley. The gap was 0.21 is that the specs on it.
View 3 RepliesI've had a jangling fan clutch for awhile. Would love to get ridbof this. Any tricks to get rid of that noise? Pretty sure its functional, just noisy.
View 10 RepliesI have a 1996 Explorer XLT 4x4 and I hear what I call barring making a noise when I accelerate. If it is the bearings in the rear end how expensive is this to fix? I love my truck but I'm on a fixed income and scared to death. I will not drive it until I get some sort of idea as to what and where I should take it.
View 2 RepliesHere is what happened. I bought the truck used a few years back. The A/C clutch always made a clunking noise when it engaged first thing in the morning but then when restarting later in the day no noise. No noise either once it started up, the compressor ran quietly.
Then I recently went camping, it was just this past weekend and we had a bunch of rain. So I had on the front defrost mode on the heater for the windshield. I let the truck idle for about 15 minutes. The wife noticed that the truck was overheating (I have a Taurus fan installed and the fuse blew on the controller thats another story for another time, I got that fixed. I think it was because the clutch was trying to engage but couldnt and it made the fan controller overheat and the fuse blew) So I popped the hood and it was smoking under the hood. So I turned off the defroster and hear some noise under the hood. The AC clutch was not engaging when on the defroster mode and is making a clunking/grinding noises all the time now.
When I returned home I checked the fuse for the AC clutch and it was blown. So I replaced the fuse and it engaged the clutch by turning on the A/C, the clutch engaged and the compressor sounded fine and the clunking noise went away, it also blew cold air all the time the A/C was on, with this it looks like the compressor is fine.
Then I tried the defroster setting again to simulate what had happened at the campground and the clutch was engaging at first then started to slip and I could smell it burning. So I shut it off. The A/C clutch is still making a clunking /grinding noise noise and wont engage at all now even when turning on the AC.
So for a second opinion from all of you, does it look like I can get away with just replacing the clutch assembly? Also does the clutch assembly come with the new magnet, bearing, and plate?
The A/C in my truck stopped working last year, and this year I intend to fix it. I believe the problem is with the compressor clutch because it was making noise as it would engage or disengage. It was making this noise for a good year or so, and then one day the noise stopped and I have no A/C. So I am only assuming its the clutch.
View 4 Replies1996 F150 4x4 with 300/6 and M5OD mazda tranny. 145k miles on it and looking really clean, and just the truck we wanted. It used to be well cared for, but has been a bit neglected since the owner passed away.
I spent a few hours searching the forums here and didn't find anything matching my symptoms exactly so I thought I would just jump in a post, but if I missed a thread feel free to redirect me.
I've got a bit of a rattling noise as the clutch engages when taking off in first. Once the clutch is fully engaged it's quiet and it shifts well and smooth. Noise also occurs (but less so) if I don't match RPM's and ride the clutch into second or third. I don't think its engine noise from lugging or anything because it goes away as soon as the clutch is fully engaged or disengaged.
Changed the trans fluid last night and no different, Clutch fluid reservoir is full, clutch travel feels good, master cylinder looks good, (slave is hidden, but looks dry though dust cover) a little play in the white bushing that holds the clutch pedal bar in place, and the plastic pushrod that goes into the firewall, thinking about replacing this linkage.
I work on big diesels for a living so i'm not scared of getting greasy. I'm almost inclined to think someone did a clutch job without resurfacing the flywheel. Is there an improved replacement for the pedal bracket and linkage? I don't mind just doing the clutch, but I don't want to be throwing my money away.
I have a 2000 F150 XLT 5.4L truck. I noticed the AC went out about a month ago and since then I could hear the AC/Clutch bearing making noise. Well I went to start it the other day after eating dinner out and it wouldn't start. It sounds like it wants to start but it just doesn't have enough umph. I replaced the starter and charged the battery up to 100 percent. It still won't start.
If I take the belt off it will start and I checked the AC/Clutch and I can move it with my bear hands. I tried disconnecting the AC/Clutch fuse and relay but that didn't work. Is it possible that the Clutch is freezing up when I try to start it?
My 1999 Ford F350 Dually 4x4 started making a grinding noise every once in a while about 3 weeks ago. Now it is doing it quite often, randomly as I am driving. I do notice the noise stops when I stop the truck, or when I flip the switch to 4x4 and back while driving.
View 1 RepliesSearched through old threads but didn't come across these in particular, a lot to look through so may have missed in Car has 270 miles on it.
1) When clutch is in all the way and the car is revved, I can feel it in my left foot. This can be felt when car is stationary or in motion - Is this common for MK6/R? I don't recall being able to feel this in my MKV GTI
2) When the car is in motion, I hear a knock noise right after the clutch is pressed in. I can only hear the noise if windows are open and stereo is off, and this only occurs while the car is in motion. - Is this a standard clutch noise for healthy clutch/pp/flywheel/throw-out bearing on this platform, or should there be no noises? It sounds like something I'd expect to hear with a messed up throw-out bearing.
Now with the new clutch installed, it makes a terrible noise with my foot off of the clutch in neutral. I can't get into any gears; it'll just grind gears.
Here is a video of the noise. Again the noise only occurs with my foot off of the clutch pedal. Quiet with my foot on the clutch. I can't get into any gears.
1996 Honda Civic
Ok, probably about 1/3 times i start my 96 f150 4.9 with true duals, the left pipe has a higher pitched howling noise, its a steady tone whether I rev the truck up or not it just gets louder. It will do it for about 6 seconds and then stop. The truck doesn't run badly because of it, but i took her to autozone to get her scanned and they said that the oxygen sensor on the first manifold bank has a slow response on startup. Is that what causes this strange noise, I don't even know how it would make it, it sounds much different from the engine. The right pipe doesn't do anything.
View 9 RepliesMy 04 GX has about 113k on it and the A/C clutch is shot, making a ton of grinding noise when its engaged (when the A/C is on).
Need to repair or replace there unit because of this? I see online the ability to buy just the clutch pack for the A/C compressor. However Lexus and other sites want to sell me the whole A/C compressor.
Question being, can I get away with buying the clutch pack and installing it onto my OEM a/c compressor? Or do I buy a new compressor?
I have a 2013 golf r and I usually shift gear at 3 rpm when driving normal but for some reason it doesn't feel right, I can hear the clutch making a weird noise whenever changing gear at a low rpm, it feels so much smoother when shifting above 4 rpm but I dont always wanna punch it so hard especially when there's always traffic from where I live. Any advice on a smoother shift at a low rpm.
View 22 RepliesPretty sure the a/c clutch on my LT1 is going - making lots of noise when working and also when not.
I've heard on some forums that this could be a bearing? Is it advisable for me to replace the entire clutch or just this bearing?
Either way, I assume I'll have to pull the clutch for which I think I'll need two special tools:
(1) clutch holder tool to break nut loose.
(2) pulley puller.
The car has about 142,000 miles. Is the clutch on this car adjustable? My repair files indicate it was "adjusted" a couple times, $40 each time. Now I think I might need a new one: it seems to be slipping, making some noise in 3rd, and in 5th.
View 2 RepliesWhen you put trans in reverse makes whine noise no reverse. The forward gears are fine. Could this be a solenoid problem?
View 1 Repliesi have a 96 toyota celica sx which makes a horrible noise when i start it, its almost like a high pitch rattling noise, usually goes away when it warms up but sometimes still making it accelerating, think the noise is coming from area which is in the photo, what it is?
View 7 RepliesI have a 1987 Camaro with a 305 TPI V-8, with a 5-speed manual transmission. I rebuilt the transmission, and installed a new clutch, pressure plate, throw out bearing, and had the fly wheel ground (which the machine shop said that it took very little material off to get clean-up). When we first got the car running when the car is moving in any gear (even in neutral) with the clutch peddle down, I get a rotary grinding noise (but only about 30% of the time). If I let the clutch pedal up the noise stops immedately. The transmission shift smooly, in all gear selection. I thought that I had gotten a bad throw out bearing, so we installed an other new throw out bearing, but I get the same noise. Is there something that could cause this noise inside the transmission?
View 8 RepliesI have a 10 year old 2003 Subaru Forester in "very good" condition....except that the transfer clutch assembly is starting to make noise and the repair shop (at the dealer) says, housing has to be replaced also. The car has 130K miles and has had all its regular maintenance for 10 years. The only major mechanical problem we've had are the head gaskets (which on this year's model were NOT part of the recall). Those were fixed 2 years ago. Some of what I see in the online chatter about transfer clutches suggests that this is a slippery slope and the next thing you know there's the "next thing" that needs to be worked on. We were hoping that the 2014 Forester would get really good mileage (this one got 30 when it was younger) but we hear it will only be 32 mpg so we're inclined to "keep waiting" if this car can be kept happy. Is a transfer clutch repair a big deal?
View 7 Repliesnoticing a few issues with my 2003 jetta 2.0 when driving/shifting....so first main thing I noticed is when shifting from 1st to 2nd gear often times it will make a grinding sound and not shift smoothly from 1st to 2nd....you have to do it real slow/gingerly ...if I short shift from neutral to 2nd its fine or if down shifting to 2nd its fine...I have changed the gear oil...other sounds idk if its my tranny or engine but if going up hill and you throw into 3rd and not going fast enough its makes a rattling sound and is sluggish I know its a old car 177,000 miles so idk just curious if this is a sign of problems?....Last thing after driving and getting home and putting into reverse gear to park it makes a noise like a chugging sound when reversing and can be finicky going into reverse.
View 1 Replies1996 Ford Ranger 4-Cyl. 90,000 miles. 5 speed manual transmission. When the truck is driven 10-15 miles and heats up the clutch will seize in the up position. Once the engine is turned off then it can't be turned back on because the clutch won't depress. After the truck has completely cooled down the clutch and the transmission again work fine, as long as I keep any use under about 10 miles.
View 6 Replies