we have a 07 Escape that the brake lights stay on even with the ignition key off. I changed the brake switch twice. Thinking maybe the first may be faulty from the factory. I'm stuck on what the problem could be
View 8 RepliesSo a little while ago I had my parking brake, ABS, and traction control lights all come on at the same time. There was no change in performance, but they have been on ever since. I looked in to it online and a bunch of people said this was a common problem with damaged tone rings, so I checked them out, but they were fine (as far as I could tell anyway). So I scanned the vehicle using a buddy of mine's Snap On scanner, and it came up with the following code:
B1342 Faulty Control Module
We tried to check the fault code through Mitchell OnDemand but it said that this code was for a faulty Parking Assist Module. I don't have any kind of Parking Assist system on this vehicle however. I looked around a little more and this seems to be a pretty generic code for brake system faults with Fords. Also, if the control module for the ABS is the same one that handles traction control?
I have a 2009 Ford Escape Limited with 3.0L. When Idling the Battery Light will turn on and stay on and when driving above 45Mph the light will turn off and then turn back on several miles down the road. After taking the car to Autozone and having the Alternator and Battery checked, I was told that the Voltage Regulator was bad and that I had to replace the Alternator due to the Voltage Regulator is not a serviceable part. After replacing the Alternator the battery and charging system is reading 13.86v (steadily) and when idling for about 5 minutes the Battery Light will come back on. I drive about 200 miles daily and do not want to get stranded... What else could be the problem?
View 6 RepliesChanged front brake pads yesterday. Took calipers apart, used c clamp and old break pad to release pressure from the cylinder. Installed new pads. Brakes felt spongie. Drove truck forward and backwards hitting the brakes. They tightened up some what but still spongie. Drove truck with no change. Decided to bleed front brakes. Now I have NO brake pressure at all.
*rotor on left side did have small groove but was not replaced... would this possibly be contributing to my issue.
So, I changed the front brake pads on my 2007 Prius blindly, and in doing so I bled the lines (I also had the key in my pocket!). Now, the ABS light, VSC light and (!) light all are on and continue to stay on while driving. Is this something as simple as resetting the codes? Is the vehicle safe to drive to a repair shop to set strait?
View 2 RepliesMy son said the high brake light is out, the one on the roof. Bulb is fine. Before I experiment, where to go?
View 2 RepliesRemoving the old cracked rubber brake line hoses on my daughters 2003 Ford Escape. Front left no problem. Old off, new on in 5 minutes. All the other won't come free. Can break nut loose, but just spins & spins. What is going on here? Did search and should be very easy.
View 6 RepliesI have a 2001 escape. The red brake warning light in the dash is on. I have changed the low brake fluid sensor and disconnected the parking brake switch . It is not on when first started but comes on shortly after starting to drive (within 100 feet). Do these things have a proportioning valve and a sensor in it?
View 2 RepliesCan the speedo and tack lights be dimmed to almost off with the + and - buttons either side of the headlight switch on a 2014 Escape?
View 2 RepliesSubject Vehicle: 2003 Ford Escape Limited AWD V6
Mileage: 165,878
The front brake line hoses blew out (R & L) while driving in the city. The parking brake was ineffective in slowing the vehicle as it was traveling down hill. With no means of slowing, the vehicle was turned into a parking lot in an attempt to get on level ground where it was more controllable and could be stopped more easily. The parking lot was not large enough to slow the vehicle and a choice had to be made to crash into a building or drive off the edge of the parking lot to another lot that was approximately 4 feet lower. The 2nd option was chosen. Once the vehicle had landed with great force, it was directed uphill where it eventually came to a stop and put into park.
Unfortunately, extensive damage was done to the frame and underside of the vehicle including oil pan, exhaust system, engine mounts, radiator support frame and under body engine and transmission mounting points. I was told by the tow truck driver, the Firestone auto center and found in other research that Ford Escapes are known for rubber brake line failures. I have had vehicles much older than this and have never had a rubber brake line dry rot and rupture like these. This seems to be a known issue and should be addressed before more damage is done and more people injured or worse. We were lucky. This could have been much worse. Safety issues like this need to be addressed with an immediate recall.
I've had this problem for a while. The previous owner of my escape replaced two tires and said the ABS and four wheel drive lights started coming on. ABS solid, FWD light flashes eight times every two minutes USUALLY. Sometimes the ABS and FWD light are off if I am on a short drive. Sometimes in these instances I can feel the brake pedal pulse or I can tell the 4WD is trying to activate without a reason (jerking in the steering wheel).
Sometimes the ABS light stays off while the 4WD light flashes constantly. After doing some research on here I'd like to believe it's a tone ring since that seems to be a common problem and a relatively easy fix (and cheaper than new tires). Oh yeah... sometimes (very rarely) the lights stay off and everything works great. The guy I bought it from said that the lights started activating two weeks or so after he changed the two tires.
Recently it rained pretty hard over here and my sunroof leaked pretty badly. Carpets were soaked, upholstery on roof got soggy, and I think some water dripped into the cluster or something maybe. So this is almost all a water damage issue I believe.
Since then, whenever i start my car there will be a series of 5 beeps that repeat 5 times, coming from the cluster. I did some research and it could be because the airbag warning lamp is out (it's light should flash when i turn the car on but it doesn't).
On top of that, the cluster gauges, lights, and radio lights, flicker for the first minute or 2 of driving and appears they flash on/off faster as i apply gas.
Applying gas also seems to interrupt the airbag beeping as the lights flicker. Car seems to run fine as far as I know other than that.
Did some more research on that and all I come across are alternator problems. From what I've read the alternator is hard to reach on 02 Escapes, and it could be very expensive so I'm REALLY hoping that's not the issue.
This 2002 ford escape 3.0 xlt 4x4. on the dash you have your transmission #s laid out . the #1 seems to always be highlighted in a square. but as you move the shifter to whatever gear you want there is another square that highlights the selected gear. Also, before when you would have it in D it would flash back and forth from D to 2 just the lights not the transmission.
View 1 RepliesI have a 2011 Escape. When I punch in the entry 5 digit code on the door post, I hear a small "click" and the parking lights come on. The door locks, however, do not operate. When I use the key fob the locks do work. What the problem is?
View 4 RepliesThe parking brake lever on my '05 Escape will not budge, is there a simple solution to this problem or do I most likely need the whole cable assembly replaced? Is there any particular spot on the cable that's most susceptible to seizing from rust that I could soak with penetrating oil to free it up? I know the inner cable comes out of the coiled metal, conduit-like outer part and is exposed where it attaches to the rear brakes. Is this most likely the spot that's causing the problem?
View 8 RepliesToday after school I hopped into my car and turned it on, it made a weird clanking kind of sound, but then sounded normal. I turned it off and it did the same thing again. I put the car into drive and it was so slow accelerating. I had my foot to the floor and it was barely catching speed while my rpm was somewhere in the 5000's. I got home and I don't know what to do. ALSO, when my Escape is at a stoplight, it turns off and shows the engine light. What's going on. I had to put my car into park, re-ignite the car and go through, again, acceleration tremendously slow. It is a Ford Escape 2001 XLT with a new engine with 80k miles on it.
View 2 RepliesThe driver side brake light does not come on when you apply the breaks but the light comes on when you turn them on.
View 2 RepliesDrivers side turn signal does not work, and blinks fast when turned on. The brake light on that side and hazards do not work. when I unlock the car with the remote, it lights up fine.
View 5 RepliesI have a 05 Ford escape with 107K. When I make a right turn and applying the brakes I feel a clunking in the brake pedal. checked all front brakes and all is ok. So I looked at the drive shaft on the drivers side. I can move or wobble the drive shaft around on the in board CV going in the transmission. Is that normal?
There are no "Clicking" sounds any where while turning which would tell me that is what it is. Also while driving slow not applying brakes there is a lot of clunking and knocking sounds while going over a few little bumps here and there. Is it the inboard CV joint?
Ive got an 02 2wd escape with the v6. Its been an excellent truck until here recently. The wife has had a weird problem twice now, that I have been unable to reproduce. She says the check engine light and low oil light come on and she loses power steering. Shutting it off and restarting fixes the issue.
Took a 400 mile road trip with it last weekend and never had an issue. Only thing I noticed , the readiness meters never went ready. Even after that trip, It still shows a systems not ready code.
Tonight the wife had the issue again. Shutdown and restart fixed it. Battery cables are clean and tight, several grounds were freshly cleaned a couple months ago.
I have a 2007 Mercury Mariner with a 3.0 Liter V6 engine AWD. The transmission is giving me a problem. No shift into 2nd and 4th. Solenoid or band broken I think. Is the bolt hole pattern to attach the tranny to the engine different between the 3.0 V6 and the 2.3 I4?
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