Ford Escape / Hybrid :: 2003 - New Brake Pad But No Brake Pressure At All?
Dec 8, 2013
Changed front brake pads yesterday. Took calipers apart, used c clamp and old break pad to release pressure from the cylinder. Installed new pads. Brakes felt spongie. Drove truck forward and backwards hitting the brakes. They tightened up some what but still spongie. Drove truck with no change. Decided to bleed front brakes. Now I have NO brake pressure at all.
*rotor on left side did have small groove but was not replaced... would this possibly be contributing to my issue.
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Subject Vehicle: 2003 Ford Escape Limited AWD V6
Mileage: 165,878
The front brake line hoses blew out (R & L) while driving in the city. The parking brake was ineffective in slowing the vehicle as it was traveling down hill. With no means of slowing, the vehicle was turned into a parking lot in an attempt to get on level ground where it was more controllable and could be stopped more easily. The parking lot was not large enough to slow the vehicle and a choice had to be made to crash into a building or drive off the edge of the parking lot to another lot that was approximately 4 feet lower. The 2nd option was chosen. Once the vehicle had landed with great force, it was directed uphill where it eventually came to a stop and put into park.
Unfortunately, extensive damage was done to the frame and underside of the vehicle including oil pan, exhaust system, engine mounts, radiator support frame and under body engine and transmission mounting points. I was told by the tow truck driver, the Firestone auto center and found in other research that Ford Escapes are known for rubber brake line failures. I have had vehicles much older than this and have never had a rubber brake line dry rot and rupture like these. This seems to be a known issue and should be addressed before more damage is done and more people injured or worse. We were lucky. This could have been much worse. Safety issues like this need to be addressed with an immediate recall.
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My son said the high brake light is out, the one on the roof. Bulb is fine. Before I experiment, where to go?
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we have a 07 Escape that the brake lights stay on even with the ignition key off. I changed the brake switch twice. Thinking maybe the first may be faulty from the factory. I'm stuck on what the problem could be
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Removing the old cracked rubber brake line hoses on my daughters 2003 Ford Escape. Front left no problem. Old off, new on in 5 minutes. All the other won't come free. Can break nut loose, but just spins & spins. What is going on here? Did search and should be very easy.
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I have a 2001 escape. The red brake warning light in the dash is on. I have changed the low brake fluid sensor and disconnected the parking brake switch . It is not on when first started but comes on shortly after starting to drive (within 100 feet). Do these things have a proportioning valve and a sensor in it?
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No key on prime. Inertia switch OK. Zero line pressure when filter removed & changed. Tries to start with ether. Front 3 coils are for sure firing. Swapped the pump relay with fan relay, no change, no prime.
I'm working with an 03 factory hard copy manual & I'm just not seeing a testing procedure, but I'm bat blind sometimes. What I'm missing? The patient had run fine all day, stopped for an hour. Got back in, started badly, shook somewhat, died, no start since.
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So a little while ago I had my parking brake, ABS, and traction control lights all come on at the same time. There was no change in performance, but they have been on ever since. I looked in to it online and a bunch of people said this was a common problem with damaged tone rings, so I checked them out, but they were fine (as far as I could tell anyway). So I scanned the vehicle using a buddy of mine's Snap On scanner, and it came up with the following code:
B1342 Faulty Control Module
We tried to check the fault code through Mitchell OnDemand but it said that this code was for a faulty Parking Assist Module. I don't have any kind of Parking Assist system on this vehicle however. I looked around a little more and this seems to be a pretty generic code for brake system faults with Fords. Also, if the control module for the ABS is the same one that handles traction control?
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The parking brake lever on my '05 Escape will not budge, is there a simple solution to this problem or do I most likely need the whole cable assembly replaced? Is there any particular spot on the cable that's most susceptible to seizing from rust that I could soak with penetrating oil to free it up? I know the inner cable comes out of the coiled metal, conduit-like outer part and is exposed where it attaches to the rear brakes. Is this most likely the spot that's causing the problem?
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The driver side brake light does not come on when you apply the breaks but the light comes on when you turn them on.
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Drivers side turn signal does not work, and blinks fast when turned on. The brake light on that side and hazards do not work. when I unlock the car with the remote, it lights up fine.
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I have a 05 Ford escape with 107K. When I make a right turn and applying the brakes I feel a clunking in the brake pedal. checked all front brakes and all is ok. So I looked at the drive shaft on the drivers side. I can move or wobble the drive shaft around on the in board CV going in the transmission. Is that normal?
There are no "Clicking" sounds any where while turning which would tell me that is what it is. Also while driving slow not applying brakes there is a lot of clunking and knocking sounds while going over a few little bumps here and there. Is it the inboard CV joint?
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2003 escape brake pedal squeals. Brakes have all been redone; however, pedal squeals when released. Wondering if vacuum leak or master cylinder.
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I have a 1962 ford falcon ranchero. The driver side brake light, goes out when brake pressure is applied, but is on when lights are fully on, but even then brake pressure is applied and goes out. Right brake light is fine. And turn signal on right works. But driver side back light goes out when brake pressure is put on and when turn signal is put for left side. Right makes a turn noise left side doesn't. I recently replaced the turn signal switch. So its brand new. But older wires every where else. No cuts anywhere on wires. Fine. And replaced the bulb also.
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I'm having an issue with my ford again. Escape, V6, 123k miles. Recent work done: Replaced all spark plugs, coils, and intake manifold gaskets. Replaced all four O2 sensors. Oil change switching from the 5w-20 to 5w-30 due to it getting cold, (probably a month ago?).
Now for my current problem. Two days ago on a 20* morning, after it sat outside all night, I drove about 3 miles and then noticed the oil pressure light was blinking intermittently. When I came to a complete stop, it stayed lit. I pulled into a parking lot and starting shutting stuff down. I noticed when I turned the heater blower off, the light went out. Turning it on to High, I noticed the RPMS on the tach dropped to around the 500 mark, and the oil pressure light came back on. I turned it off and let it sit for about 45 minutes. Oil is showing good on the dipstick. I then drove it the last two days without the light coming on.
Now this morning, driving it again in 20* weather, after it sat outside, the light came on again, in almost the exact same place away from home. Both times the motor had reached operating temp, with the temp gauge being in the middle between "C" and "H". This time, even with turning the blower off, it came on every time it was at idle. I let it sit another 45 minutes, but this time when I drove it, the light was more intermittent and then was constant.
Again, the oil level is good on the dipstick, and the motor seems to be running smooth. I'm wondering if this could have anything to do with changing over to a different oil and with it being so cold in the mornings?
I have it written down at home, but I can't remember when I did the actual oil change, but its probably been a little over a month. I went from 5w-20 Pennzoil, to 5w-30; wix filter. I'm planning on doing another oil change tomorrow when I get home and go back to the original 5w-20. Also, I'm ordering a new oil pressure sensor, and I'll try that also. I've also looked into an oil pressure tester....
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2008 Escape V6
Got the oil changed at Walmart and they told us there was oil in the air filter and we should replace the pcv valve. Before we changed it the oil pressure light had started coming on when the car is stopped, either in gear or park. Once the gas is hit it goes off, even at something like 1 mph. Well I changed the pcv valve but the oil pressure light is still doing the same thing. What should be my next step?
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With winter on its way I have installed winter tires and steel rims w/o pressure sensors on my 08 Escape. Is there a way to disable the dash warning light for low tire air pressure?
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I just put on new winter tires and rims on my 2012 Escape and after driving about 6 miles, the low tire pressure light came on. Is there is a procedure to learn the vehicle to the new tires?
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My friends 2006 Escape has the ( low pressure warning light) flashing on for about 10 seconds after starting the engine. All tires are at correct pressure. What is causing this?
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The facts: 2009 4x4 V6 Escape with Valve stem mounted TPMS
I am getting a tire pressure sensor malfunction fault. The warning light is on and the error message is displayed on the little screen in the gauge cluster.
What I have tried: First I should say I have replace to defective sensor twice now...
1) I put the escape in tpms train mode by hitting the hazard switch off/on about 6 times.
2) I used the train tool to train all the tires but there is one that is giving me trouble and will not train.
3) I tried deflating the problem tire and inflating it to the specified pressure given on the be pillar of the escape (30 psig)... after inflating it I tried to retain it with no luck.
4) I tried rotating the tires and as I mentioned earlier I have replaces the problem sensor twice. Still can't can't get the problem tire to train.
My thoughts:
1) I don't think this is a module error because I can train the other tires and since I rotated them I know their position is not a factor.
2) its possible that I have got two defective tpms sensors but I think that is unlikely.
3) I have read of another procedure to put the escape in tpms train mode that requires you to turn the ignition on/off, step on the break pedal, tap your head and rub your belly, etc... but I have not tried this method. Is there a difference from this train mode verse hitting the hazard switch on/off about 6 times?
4) Does the train tool only work on previously trained sensors? do I need to register the new TPMS sensor with the TPMS module? I have an OBDII tool that connects to scanXL software on my laptop which included the ford proprietary protocol. I looked for a way to program a tpms sensor (similar to how I did it with my toyota) but couldn't find the option.
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I need to replace my pressure line on my 02 Escape 3.0L. Looking for a DIY for doing this same job?
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