Removing the old cracked rubber brake line hoses on my daughters 2003 Ford Escape. Front left no problem. Old off, new on in 5 minutes. All the other won't come free. Can break nut loose, but just spins & spins. What is going on here? Did search and should be very easy.
View 6 RepliesSubject Vehicle: 2003 Ford Escape Limited AWD V6
Mileage: 165,878
The front brake line hoses blew out (R & L) while driving in the city. The parking brake was ineffective in slowing the vehicle as it was traveling down hill. With no means of slowing, the vehicle was turned into a parking lot in an attempt to get on level ground where it was more controllable and could be stopped more easily. The parking lot was not large enough to slow the vehicle and a choice had to be made to crash into a building or drive off the edge of the parking lot to another lot that was approximately 4 feet lower. The 2nd option was chosen. Once the vehicle had landed with great force, it was directed uphill where it eventually came to a stop and put into park.
Unfortunately, extensive damage was done to the frame and underside of the vehicle including oil pan, exhaust system, engine mounts, radiator support frame and under body engine and transmission mounting points. I was told by the tow truck driver, the Firestone auto center and found in other research that Ford Escapes are known for rubber brake line failures. I have had vehicles much older than this and have never had a rubber brake line dry rot and rupture like these. This seems to be a known issue and should be addressed before more damage is done and more people injured or worse. We were lucky. This could have been much worse. Safety issues like this need to be addressed with an immediate recall.
My ten year old ford escape has a clunking sound up in the engine compartment when I go over speed bumps, like something is loose and is banging around (yes, I know the car is ten years old). I think I figured it out... I just noticed the radiator is a little loose and can bang around? There are two posts at the top of the radiator that go into two little rubber grommets in metal supports. you can see the posts in the grommets when you open hood right up front. anyway, the inside of the grommet is bigger than the outside diameter of the post so the post can shake around. Do these grommets wear over the years, and is it possible to just replace the rubber grommet and not the whole support?
View 4 RepliesI simply cannot find a proper and complete vacuum diagram for this 2001 Escape V6. (The sticker has been removed from the car.)
The car is hard to start - very hard, but once warm it manages to run ok. There vacuum hose way down low, on the back of the block and under the starter, impossible to see but if my fingers aren't lying it's very near the knock sensor? This hose is rotten and disconnected at the top - it's just laying there kinda under the throttle body.
For the life of me I cannot a) identify what the hose goes to and b) figure out where to plug it back in. There are no empty ports I can find anywhere within reach of the floppy end of the hose.
What is the inside diameter of an '05 Escape heater core hose?
View 5 RepliesHad to get a replacement door due to a wreck. It's from a salvage yard, painted and ready to install except I want to swap my door handle over because of the key lock. I cannot for the life of me figure out how to remove this thing. I've got it unbolted and it'll move all around, just not slide out.
View 1 RepliesSteering column recall ? The ford sites don't have much info yet. What is involved steering column replacement ? Computer reprogramming to sove the issue of the steering ?
View 1 RepliesI was just under my 2000 F250 7.3l crew cab truck and noticed a small diameter rubber hose dangling from my front drivers side brake housing area. It is attached near two other cables which are similar to cables on the passenger side. I don't see a similar hose on the passenger side. The hose is completely deteriorated and broke off up higher towards the engine. I cannot see where it goes. What it may be?
View 4 RepliesChanged front brake pads yesterday. Took calipers apart, used c clamp and old break pad to release pressure from the cylinder. Installed new pads. Brakes felt spongie. Drove truck forward and backwards hitting the brakes. They tightened up some what but still spongie. Drove truck with no change. Decided to bleed front brakes. Now I have NO brake pressure at all.
*rotor on left side did have small groove but was not replaced... would this possibly be contributing to my issue.
I'm replacing the ignition lock cylinder on my 03 Escape. The factory cylinder has the little black "wings" that nestle around the key when inserted:
The locksmith says the replacement cylinder needs to have those same wings for him to be change it. Is this correct? The auto part stores have the regular cylinder (with no wings) readily available, but the one with wings is a special-order item and I need this sooner rather than later.
Plus, the wingless one includes keys while the other appears to have none.
We are a 2 Escape family. We have an '03 and an '05 - both 4WD and 3.0 V6. My college freshman son purchased the '05 this summer to get to and from his summer job. It has a little over 173K on the clock and it has a power steering leak, so I decided to try to tackle this one.
There is a fairly good video on YouTube on replacement of the power steering pump on an '03 - but apparently on the '05 Ford decided to relocate the pump from under the upper right engine mount to a lower location closer to the front bumper so the video is not of much use in this case.
I have searched the web and this site but cannot find any tips or instructions to replace the power steering pump on the '05. The Chilton Manual I have does not acknowledge the difference in the power steering pump location on the '05 and only provides the procedure for those Escapes where the pump is located under the upper engine mount.
I think I may be able to get better access by removing the inner fender plastic and perhaps the front bumper cover, but would really like to know the accepted procedure before I start tearing into this one.
One interesting bit of info regarding power steering fluid on these vehicles. Ford designed them to use automatic transmission fluid (Mercon) instead of power steering fluid. Initially, when I saw the leak, I thought it was a tranny line leak. Then I traced it to the front of the engine which is totally on the opposite side of the vehicle from the tranny lines.
My flex pipe recently broke, and as a temporary fix I pieced it together using a universal flex pipe and some exhaust tape and clamps. When shopping around, I came across this:
Walker Exhaust Pipe 50465 - Read Reviews on Walker #50465
Is this an OEM part for a 2008 ford escape 3.0? It looks somewhat correct, although I do not remember seeing the other two fittings in that picture on it. (It looks like the end with the flex pipe is the end that connects to the catalytic converter, and the other two connect to the front and back headers on the engine, but I don't recall seeing a fitting like whats on the end of that flex pipe on my car (It could be that it was cut off, too).
If this is the OEM one, then perhaps the original exhaust shop cut off the fitting between the cat and where the flexpipe attaches. Is there a way that I can get parts to re-make this section of exhaust so that I can use this piece? The flex pipe they originally put in was too big and it came loose again forcing me to have to rig it again since I can't weld, and needed to get it fixed quickly.
I really do not want to replace the entire exhaust system if I don't need to, and hoping I don't have to.
I am pretty satisfied with the performance of my 2009 Ford Escape. Two years 51,000 miles after I find that the rear door does not open. Following threads of earlier Escape models I find how to remove the inside panel and open it manually. After a thorough study all I need is a replacement latch motor. The plastic latch cover has the following number GA6 GF30.
View 14 RepliesMy son said the high brake light is out, the one on the roof. Bulb is fine. Before I experiment, where to go?
View 2 Replieswe have a 07 Escape that the brake lights stay on even with the ignition key off. I changed the brake switch twice. Thinking maybe the first may be faulty from the factory. I'm stuck on what the problem could be
View 8 RepliesI have a 2001 escape. The red brake warning light in the dash is on. I have changed the low brake fluid sensor and disconnected the parking brake switch . It is not on when first started but comes on shortly after starting to drive (within 100 feet). Do these things have a proportioning valve and a sensor in it?
View 2 RepliesSo a little while ago I had my parking brake, ABS, and traction control lights all come on at the same time. There was no change in performance, but they have been on ever since. I looked in to it online and a bunch of people said this was a common problem with damaged tone rings, so I checked them out, but they were fine (as far as I could tell anyway). So I scanned the vehicle using a buddy of mine's Snap On scanner, and it came up with the following code:
B1342 Faulty Control Module
We tried to check the fault code through Mitchell OnDemand but it said that this code was for a faulty Parking Assist Module. I don't have any kind of Parking Assist system on this vehicle however. I looked around a little more and this seems to be a pretty generic code for brake system faults with Fords. Also, if the control module for the ABS is the same one that handles traction control?
The parking brake lever on my '05 Escape will not budge, is there a simple solution to this problem or do I most likely need the whole cable assembly replaced? Is there any particular spot on the cable that's most susceptible to seizing from rust that I could soak with penetrating oil to free it up? I know the inner cable comes out of the coiled metal, conduit-like outer part and is exposed where it attaches to the rear brakes. Is this most likely the spot that's causing the problem?
View 8 RepliesThe driver side brake light does not come on when you apply the breaks but the light comes on when you turn them on.
View 2 RepliesDrivers side turn signal does not work, and blinks fast when turned on. The brake light on that side and hazards do not work. when I unlock the car with the remote, it lights up fine.
View 5 RepliesI have a 05 Ford escape with 107K. When I make a right turn and applying the brakes I feel a clunking in the brake pedal. checked all front brakes and all is ok. So I looked at the drive shaft on the drivers side. I can move or wobble the drive shaft around on the in board CV going in the transmission. Is that normal?
There are no "Clicking" sounds any where while turning which would tell me that is what it is. Also while driving slow not applying brakes there is a lot of clunking and knocking sounds while going over a few little bumps here and there. Is it the inboard CV joint?