Ford Excursion :: Rust On Rockers And Wheel Wells / Shifting From 1st To 2nd A Little Jerky
Apr 13, 2017
My 2000 V10 Ex 4x4 (has 146,000 miles) with some rust on rockers and wheel wells runs pretty good. The exhaust needs some work. The transmission shifts pretty well I think, except sometimes from 1st to 2nd its a little jerky (like in a parking lot). I've put powerstop brakes on all four wheels, and have been maintaining it pretty well since I bought it almost two years ago.
Here's my issue. My 3rd son (out of 4) was diagnosed 2 years ago with ALL (Acute Lymphoblastic Leukemia). His End Of Treatment (EOT) date is July 8th 2018. This is relevant because to celebrate his EOT, we are planning on taking a 2 week road trip out west in our new to us hybrid travel trailer we just purchased this past February. We are taking the camper on a few weekend trips this summer and one week long trip to Michigan in July (we're from Ohio).
My concern is this: am I risking a ruined trip out west with such an old vehicle? I don't really trust it for such a long trip, I worry something would fail me and ruin a trip that's supposed to be celebrating my son conquering cancer. Am I being overly paranoid? I see V10 trucks and Excursions all the time with more miles than my own. I just worry that the rust will just be too much and the driveshaft will fall off, or the transmission will fail while we're towing up the Bighorns, or in Yellowstone. You get the picture.
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I have a 2011 Sonata Limited, I'm noticing some heavy rusting in the wheel wells especially in the rear (not sure if wells are the right term), what can I do?
It's very ugly, It has very heavy surface rust, the car is 2011, I don't remember seeing this much damaged when I purchased the car last winter. I took it to the dealership, they said they cant change it because it is purely aesthetic and the components still work.
I'm researching rust proofing, but that seems more like a preventative action than a remedy, what can I do, it really annoys me every time I look at it. I don't know why Hyundai chose such poor material inside the wheels that rusts so easily. I have compared it to other Sonatas I see on the street, mine is a lot worse.
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If I make a turn either right or left when bringing the steering wheel back to center it feels jerky or twitchy.
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I just went to Steamboat this weekend which requires driving over two mountain passes in a snow storm...I only go if it is snowing. This was the first trip with my new 2013 FX4 and the front wheel wells filled up with so much ice that the wheels would rub after a bump in the road. The mountain roads do have lots of frost heaves so this would happen fairly often. The ice was all around the wheel well with a huge build up behind the wheel. It also covered the step rails. Would mud flaps do anything to preovent this build up? Or any other tricks?. Otherwise the truck did fine...
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I am sick that my 2008 F250 with 107K miles is exhibiting signs of rust this spring.. While filling up the tank saw a bit of a bubble on the left side top of the wheel well. Another one on the passenger side. I've had the truck since new and have tried to keep it as clean as I can being that it is a daily driver in the rust belt. Certainly thought that I'd get more than 6 years before the rot showed up. Don't remember my 1999 F350 exhibiting that, but it was a dually and had the fiberglass fenders that might have hidden it.
Took it to the local body shop and he told me to get used to it, just a matter of time around here. He said he could work on it, but it would never be fixed, rust would eventually return. He suggested sand blasting myself, repairing as I could, oiling the inside behind the tail lights and bolting on some Bushwacker flares. Having driven Ford trucks all my 40 years of driving I'm going to be looking at Dodges next time I buy.
Drivers side ...
Passenger side ...
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have an 04 f150 that is starting to show some rust in the rear wheel wells. Right now there is just a bit of rust where the painted panel is seamed to the inner panel around the arch, but I can see small spots where the paint is starting to bubble about an inch out on the outside of the panel. I want to keep this thing looking nice for a few more years; what should I do?
I'm a very good welder, can hold my own when turning wrenches, have done lots of metal fabrication as well as painting with a cup gun, but I have very little autobody experience.
I am thinking there is rust between the inner and outer panels and that removing the surface rust and repainting would be a very temporary repair, correct? Could I cover it up with some sort of wheel well liner? If so, how to I slow the existing rust? Is there any sort of partial preformed steel panel/well that allow you to cut off the rusty stuff and weld new stuff on? I'm a little leary of the last thought- I could do the fabbing, but not sure how I'd do getting it back to 'smooth'
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My rear fenders are pitting and bubbling with rust on both sides. I had my local body shop have at it and it looked good for about 6 months. Now bubbling up again. I see in older trucks like mine that this is a common problem. I'll probably have to replace rhr box if I really want to fix it? Or just learn to live with it.
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Having issues with rear wheel wells rusting, mine is a 2004 f-250. I wax at least 10 times a yr. Can't believe I have rust there...
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My 2004-V8 has developed some creaking sound that seems to come from both front wheel wells when going at low speeds. Going over bumps does not produce them but hard braking and corners tend to produce them. My suspicions are either brakes or steering. Had all the suspension bushings done about a year ago and the dealer did not tell me about worn steering parts. Steering tracks well and suspension is taught. Vagcom shows nothing as this most likely is completely mechanical or even structural.
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I just completed a detailed cleaning of my SF last weekend and I noticed that every plastic screw and plastic nut inside the wheel wells were all loose. (Not the screws on the outside but inside above the tires.) I tightened them only finger tight.
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Im having an issue with my 2000 f250 7.3 diesel. 4x4. The od light is flashing and the tranny is kind of jerky when it shifts. Also my truck won't go into 4 low. (I have shift on the fly) and every time I put it in park my truck revs up to 2000 rpm for a few seconds. I do have a ts 6 pos. Chip with can tunes on it. And I have already replaced the IPR. It does it even in stock setting.
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I notice that under normal acceleration, my cars transmission shifts very jerky. I understand this can happen if your driving stick but I have a TIP. Is there anyway smooth or eliminate the jerks?
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Have a rust spot coming thru rear, that I am presuming is due to condensate from rear a/c.
If the rear inside panel where jack is located is removed, it is from the rear inside corner behind the jack.
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A buddy of mine ripped the hitch off his excursion due to rust. Anything can be fixed. I will try to get a picture of it.
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I will be repairing the rust at the bottom edges of my doors. I work at a body shop and we've done 2 X's in the last 2 weeks! one was an 02 and was really bad. the owner wanted 4 new doors and rust repaired at the R/R lower C-pillar. the one today was an 04or 05? and just started to pop. After the first I looked at my doors and my L/R is the worst with just starting to flake paint. The others are just starting to pop.
I'll take some pics of what I'm doing which will be the same we did at the shop. In the years I've been on this site I've never seen mention of this! I know it`s more common in the midwest and east so I'm sure there are more than just a few! In as you don't know what I'm talking about.....look under the rubber weather strip (flap) on the lower part of the doors. the rust starts at the seem where the door frame and skin attach!
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I have considerable rust on both sides at the rocker panels. Both running boards are precariously perched and won't last long (don't really care about that; I'll do without).
In my search for replacement panels, I'm only able to find ones for "crew cab super duty," not specifically the Excursion. Wouldn't they be identical? Identical enough?
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My X spent 4 years up north and has a lot of rust underneath the chassis, can use blackstar rust remover polymer? I cannot stand looking at it and was wondering about having success using this product? It looks like it removes rust and seals it with a polymer.
[URL]....
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I've never used a rust converter, so I have no experience and wanted to hear from those who have. I've got some light rust on the frame rails and the hitch receiver. What product would you recommend, or do these products work well enough to consider? According to all of the websites, they all work miracles...
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I can't imagine i'm the only one. Driver and passenger doors are starting to drip rust onto my running boards.
what is the best route to take? I'd like to keep my ex for at least 10 more years.
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I'm completely aware a lifted truck will not ride factory and most likely ride harder. But this is ridiculous.
So I bought a 8" super lift for my F250 7.3 2000, although the price is very cheap at that shipped to my door debating if I have messed up either with the brand or somewhere because I feel like I went from a casual ride in my lovely 7.3 to feeling like a horse carriage of a few century's ago.
Lift is setup with lift leaf springs in the front, one add a leaf in the rear with a block, and 4 new shocks and all the other hardware included to do the lift.
I'm wondering if it's possible the springs are installed wrong, or the shocks are just that bad or if there a weird issue I've over looked.
Tire pressure is set to 35-40 psi all around on toyo open country mts, (which I was running before the lift so that hasn't changed) but I mean this is so stiff that when I hit a bump my steering wheel jerks and I feel like my suspension has absolutely no flex in it. Debating on returning to stock or not at this point...
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I have a 2003 Saturn vue. It had a timing chain guide break. And all the roller rockers came off the valves. After replacing the guid and resetting the timing the roller rockers aren't touching the cam. What could be causing this?
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