Ford Excursion :: Slight Leak Just At The Axle By The U-Joints
Oct 24, 2014
Our axle seal went out 2500 Miles ago. Its a light leak and just wets the axle by the U-Joints. Also our 4x4 hubs don't kick into action when they should. I have to put them in Lock to get them to work. That may be why the axle seal went out, because I just leave it in lock then drive thousands of highway miles. (I don't do that anymore now that I know what I was doing) Maybe the vacuum isn't working. Could they have anything to do with each other? I don't think they do. I'm not sure how the vacuum works. Maybe I just need to service the Hub? I watched a video on it that made it seem like cake. New hubs crazy expensive!
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its a 2000 limited 4x4, must have been in the snow a lot because it was from up north and is pretty rusty on the underside. my dad and i have tried everything to get these caps off but nothing will work. lots of pb blaster, hammering, even cutting the one of the four joints and trying to wedge something from the inside. If we cant get it could a shop do it? and how much might they charge?
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I have my front axles out to replace the U-Joints but they are rusted in there. Even the C-Clip is fused/rusted in place. I use my flat wheel grinder and ground out the C-Clips but the U-Joint caps wont budge. Been soaking in penetrating oil too. Any way other than drilling them out?
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I noticed my '12 F250 has grease zerks on the front axle u-joints and was wondering how often you need to grease them ? My truck has 10k on it and while I was changing the oil tonight I decided to give them a few shots of grease until it started coming out of the joint.
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I am replacing the ball joints on my 07 f250 4x4. got down to the removal of the shaft itself and it won't budge. What is the secret here. Have to go to work on monday, and the weather in Cleveland isn't going to be very good on Sunday.
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2005 Ford 350. I want to change the ball joints on the front axel and I cant remove the axle out of dif. to remove the ball joint housing. I have been prying and pulling and it just moves out a 1/4 inch or so .They tell me there is no ring to remove in dif before you can pull it out but why this trouble?
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I own a 2000 Chrysler 300m, and have been driving it daily for the past three years. The car had 102,000 miles when I bought it, it now has 158,000. About three months ago, at 154,000 miles, the driver side wheel bearing began to hum. Shortly after, before i was able to fix the bearing, the ball joint on the passenger side snapped. I had it towed in to a shop, and the mechanic told me I needed a ball joint as well as a new CV axle.. The mechanic didn't fix the wheel bearing on the other side, and I took the car back as it was because I needed transportation. when he returned the car, he told me that I needed the same thing done on the other side, but that I had a month or so to do it.
A week later, the wheel bearing broke on the driver side, and I returned the car to him. This time he changed bearing assembly, another CV axle, two outer tie rods, new caliper bolts, and new tie rod sleeves. When I got the car back, he told me I needed an alignment, and to go someplace else and get one. I drove the car and it rode the same as it did before, so I didn't get the alignment. Three months later, I have put only 4000 miles on the car and the passenger side ball joint and CV axle just broke again.
The mechanic says that this is because I didn't get the alignment, but I'm not so sure. I've driven cars that needed to be aligned before, and never had any ball joints break as a result. I think that he may have not put it on right, or missed something else that caused the problem. Is it likely that needing an alignment would cause a ball joint to break this quickly, on only one side, or is this guy trying to hose me?
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I have been smelling a slight exhaust smell in the cab of the EX. I slide under the truck and looked at the up pipes and bellows. I saw a slight amount of soot on the outside of both bellows. So does that mean I have a leak? What is the most economical fix? Does the turbo need to be removed?
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I've been chasing a problem all summer. Began with crappy batteries dying intermittently. I replaced the batteries, FICM, finally cleaned EGR valve and replaced ICP with pigtail. The problem is still persistent. Basically a rough idle, puff of whit smoke on cold startup, rough running at around 1500 rpms( driving at 50 mph). The ICP was soaked in oil so i was confident replacing it would finally cure my issues. It actually got worse with the rough idle turning to a surging idle and quite rumbly at 50 mph speed. I guess its time to look to injector issues but i thought id check if after replacing icp/ cleaning egr. I also have a slight exhaust leak at turbo out that i can see. The clamp is not seated properly. This after turbo connection to exhaust.
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Just started to get a vibration in the last couple days. When giving it fuel there is no problem. when i let off the fuel it begins to have a slight vibration as it slows. even does it if i pop it into neutral. took it for a ride last night when i noticed it. wife sayed been going on for a few days. after just a 6 mile ride i crawled under and tried to check the joint but when i stopped i was not on level ground so have tension on the shaft but did notice that the rear joint was warm after just that short of a drive. not hot just warm compared to the other 2. it is a 2004 F250 SD 6.0DSL 4X4
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Bought the EX from my sister 2 years ago, I know that she's had the ball joints replaced several times and have read on here how some people have only gotten 20K miles out of a set. Anyway, I have the same clunk and I spent one Saturday changing them out ( as well as new brakes and rotors ) I still have the same cluck sound. I've just read a thread on the hubs rattling and its related to the needle bearings wearing out. I'll lock it in 4WD to see if the clunk goes away but I don't think that's going to work.
Would bad / incorrectly adjusted wheel bearings make this same sound? When doing the ball joints, I saw one set must have been rebuilt since the locknut looked brand new and the other side showed its been there a while.
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I put new upper and lower ball joints on a few weeks ago. The front end is really tight after getting done. the steering wheel will not return to center. I feel like I am constantly on the wheel correcting. I had the alignment checked and they said it was good. I also put new 17" wheels and bigger tires on it at the same time.
We just towed our camper this past weekend and the truck and camper was all over the road. Is all of the above caused by new ball joints?
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My upper ball joint on the drivers side needs to be replaced, so obviously I'm going to replace all four.
Any recommendations on ball joints rockauto has a lot of options. I was just going to buy the motorcraft but thought I should ask here first.
The write up in the tech folder also includes parts I may need, are there any parts that I should buy to have on hand just in case?
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I need to identify the part numbers for the u joints in the rear drive shaft. The guys at the auto parts store kept telling me I only need two until I showed them that there are clearly three. I just want make sure that I get the correct parts before purchase.
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Yesterday morning taking off out of my driveway I heard a ticking sound. Kinda metal on metal sounding. It sounds like middle of truck underside. Only on acceleration. It does also clunk at times or ping when I put it in gear.is this u joints? Hopefully not rear end. Its a 2000 limited ex. with the v10.
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I am in the process of replacing the front hub seals so my ESOF works again. I tested both front hubs with a mityvac and neither one of them holds any vacuum at all. All the lines are good, and the pump and solenoid seem to be working fine.
I have the driver's side apart and I have a couple of questions.
What's a good source for the vacuum seal? I've checked rockauto, riff raff, and diesel o-rings. Diesel o-rings has it, but the description says it's only for 2003+ Excursions so I didn't order it.
There is no yellow o-ring anywhere on the hub. I assume that someone forgot to put this o-ring back in and this is why I don't have ESOF? I guess what I really want to know is that there isn't some 2000-specific thing where there's no o-ring, right?
After I got the hub off, I spun it around on my workbench and it doesn't sound good at all. It makes a slight metallic grinding noise about 1/2 way around. I assume this isn't normal? AFAIK these are all original parts - but the missing o-ring means to me that someone already had it apart.
There was a lot of water intrusion and rusty colored grease but nothing was dry, the needle bearings were intact and the shaft isn't scored at all where the bearing rides. I'm hoping new seals and good cleaning and it should be good as new. And then it's off to the next side.
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Driving home from work today I hit the largest pothole in my life (seriously). I had a slight vibration between 40-50mph after the impact. Got home took the wheel off and it bent it partially and bubbled the sidewall of the tire. No worries I have the VW wheel/tire protection and can get it repaired and get a new tire. What really concerns me is the right side axle. It clearly hit the frame of the car and is indented slightly. As I turn the axle by hand I can tell it's slightly off on one side. My question is do I need a new axle? Or do you think the indent is throwing me off when I spin it making it look unbalanced?
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I had additional springs added to the front axle by a shop that I would not now trust to work on a tricycle.
The front axle was installed at an angle.
Is there a recommended procedure to align the axle? The two ideas I can guess at is to find a centerpoint on the body or frame and use that as an alignment point like one would align a trailer axle to the hitch or to assume the spring mounting points are precise enough to just center the axle between the two on each side.
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Noticed some spotting in front of the house, and saw some leaking coming from the driver side near the axle. I'm guessing it's the axle seal leaking. I recently switched in to 4x4 about a week ago, shortly after that I noticed the leak. I have a trip to San Antonio coming up in the middle of Feb, about a 650 mile round trip. Can I continue with the plans and get it fixed afterwards?
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I noticed pool of oil yesterday morning, felt engine oil has leaked. Did oil change as it was due, the mechanic said the leak doesn't seem big enough, still overnight there was again lot of oil leaked, I kept a pan below to capture it. Checked it at auto shop near me and they said it is transmission fluid leak and probably due to driver side axle seal leak. I am going to take it again tomorrow to fix. How much do you think it will cost to fix if this is right diagnosis? This is 2005 4 cyl Ford escape with 150k on it. As per them if it is axle leak it will probably more of labor (2 hrs) than seal price.
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This is a photo of my '79 F250 4x4 rear axle (Dana 60 full floater) this seal will leak in a few miles ..what I need is the part number of a replacement seal made like the one in the lower photo ..it seems that Ford no longer has this seal.
Notice the increased distance from the bearing to the sealing lip in this photo ..the sealing lip on the new seal in the upper photo lies almost on the bearing, this one just barely engages the seal surface on the axle stub. I can machine the bearing pocket deeper to cause the seal to move farther onto the sealing surface, but that would also cause the bearings to be closer together, and may cause problems there.
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