Ford Excursion :: Stuck In Snow Drift Now Engine Shudders Under Load
Feb 11, 2013
Saturday I stuck the ex in a snow drift, rocked it back and forth in low range about six or seven times, once i got it out the engine shudders in overdrive. If i lock out OD it still shudders under load, It starts at around 40 mph, if I push it up to 60 and let off the throttle it stops and is smooth until I start to climb a hill. It never did this before It is a 2001 V10 with 143,000 miles, where to start looking ....
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Just bought an '03 Excursion v10 with ~150,000 miles on it (Saturday morning). About 3/4 of my 1.5 hr drive home, when I hit my first small mountain, and I put my foot into it, the ABS light came on, and the speedo started bouncing around. Same thing on the second hill/mountain.
Then, after driving it on a couple small trips this weekend, and towing my 2500 lb boat home (20 min drive), it behaved fine (no big hills, etc). However, I decided to hookup my backup camera. During the 60 or so minutes that I had it sitting with dome lights on, etc measuring everything up (also trying to figure out how to fit my tool box in the back).
When I tried to start it when I was finished, it would just crank and crank and crank. Every now and then, it would try to catch, but never would. Left it sit for another 10 minutes and it started just fine. However, once it started, the ABS light came on for a little while, then went out.
At first, I thought "oh no... fuel pump". But then I started thinking about the speedo and the ABS light going whacko on the hills. I'm wondering if it's a low voltage issue? I had the alternator checked out today, and it tested fine at 13.9v. However, I've heard that those tests aren't always accurate.
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I was just wondering, is it normal when plowing to get stuck in the snow? Last year I got stuck and had to get pulled out, yesterday I got stuck again and when I have it in 4x4 hi, one front and one rear wheel spins. 4x4 low, the opposite front and opposite rear spin from hi. I want ALL 4 WHEELS TO SPIN! I'd NEVER get stuck if that happened! How do I get that to happen? I hear of a detroit locker. Do you need one for each wheel? I always thought as I was flying past everyone in the snow with a huge smile on my face, that all of my wheels were powered.
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So the other day 2/3/2014 my dad and I went out during the snow storm for the people that needed assistance. That day I pulled a 95' RWD dually with a 4 car open trailer and pushed 4 people from one location. Then after I went to assist the tractor trailer driver. My truck is a 2002 F250 super duty 5.4L with 4:10 gears. I got him unstuck then pulled him a 1/2 mile up a hill.
Pulling a stuck semi out of the snow - YouTube .....
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first off my truck is 2001 ford ranger 4x4 with an auto. transmission. when I'm driving around in 2wd, everything is fine...
when my 4wd high is on, and I'm starting from a deadstop my truck makes a weird "clunking" noise in the front end. If I'm stuck in mud or snow, and I give gas it keeps "clunking". where the problem comes from?
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I have never had this experience in 33 years of car ownership and driving in snow. Have a 2012 v and absolutely no traction in snow. Got stuck in my flat driveway, on 1" of snow in parking lot, up a hill that required pushing all the way up the hill by two people. Is there any way to disengage the TRAC system? There is no moment in which the car bites into the snow and moves. It basically just rocks (too strong a word, because there is no movement) in place with the TRAC light on. I basically can't drive it.
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I was coming home from work today and I got a little screwed over. So I got stuck about 10 times in 2 feet of snow and my tires looked like they burned out they smell horrible but I have a bigger problem. The brake light when on the e-brake and stayed on what does that mean?? is it a leak? Then the ABS light when on probably because of no traction but is it a major problem?
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My 01 excursion with a v10 6.8 liter gas engine was running rough and cutting out at 40 miles an hour climbing hills and similar situations. Had some engine codes for cylinder misfires. Changed all the spark plugs. Now it does not cut out and runs generally smoother. But something is still very wrong. At idle, you can hear it kind of shuddering.
In first and second gear it does pretty well, but when it goes to 3rd the shudder and vibration in the vehicle becomes noticeable, it can become very bad as you slowly climb to 40 miles or 50 miles an hour. If you give it gas and rev the RPMs up and go on up to 60 or 70 miles an hour, it smooths out and you would not think there was anything wrong with it.
The mechanic said we would have to wait until an engine code comes up, but I would like to understand and fix this problem if we could.
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2001 Ford Excursion 7.3 will run barely for about 20 sec. shudders, then dies. Bought new, driven 334K miles. Performed the usual fixes common to 7.3 issues over the years. All original injectors except for #7 which I replaced about 5 yrs ago. (I know should have replaced in sets but not in the budget at the time). Anyway had my wife turn the engine over after I had removed valve covers for inspection and observed a lot of smoke coming out of what appears to be at or around number 7 rocker arm valley? All rocker arm/pushrods look to be moving as they should beyond that I'm in over my head. Am I screwed or could it possibly just be a bad injector/injectors?
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Well mine was. Checked all vac lines, 4wd was fine, tested with vac pump tested ok. So first I replaced the canister. Nope, actually happened more often. Pulled the 4wd solenoid that's mounted on the inner fender, rusted and split just above where the vac lines connect. I capped them and now my a/c is perfect, 4wd is out but for now I can live without 4wd.
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I just got my excursion and it skips really bad when going up the bridge, or when it is under any load. I definitely need to change my plugs. I also may need to change my coils. Is it okay to get the cheap $8 coils off ebay or do I need to spend the money on the $75 ford Motorcraft?
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2013 F250 Lariat. 4000 miles total on it. over half are a highway.Just wrapped up a trip up to Canada and back with work, not towing anything, and noticed on straight highway, i need to keep the wheel turned at roughly between 12 o'clock and 1 o'clock... to go straight. Much of the time.
Some of the time, its normal, straight and true, but after 400 miles straight, when my left arm is tired because of holding tension into the steering system to go straight.......
Wondering if there is known steering drift with our trucks (like my dodge hemi had prior, which needed a stabilizer added from hell bent steel) or if this may be an issue. Not looking to bring it the hour back to the dealer, for him to tell me its just fine, because its heading true at the moment.
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So we finally found a travel trailer and picked it up yesterday. It is a 2008 Jayco 29A. Fiberglass with aluminum frame. 5345 dry weight, so shouldn't be too taxing on the Ex, but we towed it through parts of the NC mountains to get home and on steep grades it would downshift to 2nd gear and I would hear what sounded to me like pinging from the engine.
As far as I know the plugs are original, so should I just go ahead and replace them, or there also a possibility that this is just the notorious exhaust manifold leak? If all exhaust manifold bolts are still intact, is there a good test to know if it is the exhaust? No engine codes were thrown. The truck has 72k miles on it now.
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Got a shudder noise similar to an exhaust leak on my Excursion V10. I have no codes ... engine idles and revs fine.. Only hear noise when under load. Goes away when you let off the gas.
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I have a 2002 EX 7.3 and have never towed anything with it since purchased a year ago. This weekend I towed a side by side on a single axle trailer about 400 miles and could not maintain 70 mph with the small load up a mild hill. Also I could here the turbo surging while climbing hills. I have a AFE cold air intake and that is it. Truck had a aftermarket muffler on it when I bought it. New to the diesels but I thought it should tow that Trailer a little easier. I have no boost gauge or anything. Truck runs great other then this issue. Does not burn oil, get hot or anything out of the ordinary.
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My Expedition started to shudder on a drive when I got it up to 55 MPH. I drove for about 15 minutes and parked well I drove it again and it started to do the same thing. Now the Service Engine Light came on. What the cause could be. (2000 Ford Expedition EB Ed. 5.4l Triton).
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It's been snowing for a couple hours now and on the way home I stopped to get gas. When I popped the hood to add some windshield washer, I noticed that there was quite a bit of snow in the engine compartment, especially in the battery area and on the other side of the engine bay as well...When I arrived home, I checked my girlfriend's 2012 Accent that hasn't been moving today and there is snow as well... Is this normal that the snow gets in there so easily???
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I recently trade in my 2013 2.5 B7 for a 2014 TDI... the car its great!!! Love the MPG.... but since day one the moment i let go the steering wheel the car goes to the right... took it twice to the dealer and they say its normal... they have performed 2 alignments and other things and the car still the same....
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I have a 2012 Prius and when i press "Map" it won't open. It is stuck on loading page and spinning icon.
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Having some issues with my 2003 Alero 4 cylinder. Upon start the entire engine shudders and the check engine light flashes. I have to turn it off and turn it on and it will stop most of the time. I've taken it in and the mechanics can't get it to reproduce the same issue for them. Just replaced all four plugs, boots, ignition coil.
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I think it's possessed! My sisters vehicle, a 2002 Explorer with a 4.0 V-6, automatic, 2 wheel drive will just shut off. At first it acted like it would vapor lock. But it would start right away. then the a while later, (several months), it got where it would drop rpms and the engine shudders, sometimes not dying.
When this first started, the throttle body was cleaned, a new air filter installed, fuel pressure checked. Everything checked out and for a few days it ran fine. Then it started all over again. There has never been a code thrown. All of this goes on only when the ambient temp is above 70 deg.'s. below 70 deg.'s it runs perfect.
Last week it went to the mechanic again and a new crank speed sensor, fuel pump, and diagnostic done. He could not find anything wrong any where. Took it for a test drive and it dyed on the mechanic. Still no codes. What the problem might be? Every Mechanic that has looked at it has gave up, one even saying, " it's possessed."
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