Ford - Explorer :: 2001 - Front Wheels Seem To Stay Engaged With Front Differential
Mar 15, 2012
We have an 01 Sport Trac as a backup vehicle and it has the 3 position rotary switch on the dash for 4wd.
The transfer case engages and disengages but the front wheels seem to stay engaged with the front differential.
There are no manual hubs and I really don't think it should ALWAYS be engaged like that.
What is the probable issue and ALSO can manual hubs be installed on this truck?
Someone mentioned vacuum engagement? but I didn't see any vacuum hoses near the spindles. Didn't see any wires either other than ABS...
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I purchased my first truck 2 weeks ago private sale a 2001 Explorer Sport Trac 4v4 4.0L. I noticed it had small leaks coming from transmission and front differential gaskets (the diff is silicone) but the oil levels remain fine. Within days I heard a loud hum coming from the engine for 10 seconds then immediately after i was slowing down for a speed bump and my truck tried to stall and since that point it was riding very rough at low speed/idle and sometimes giving it gas seemed to just kill it. Next day a check engine light comes on and I get it checked It was Bank 1 running lean and B1155 (Output shaft speed signal) which concerned me from what I found it is located by the transmission oil filter which has the leak.
A few more days later I broke down on the side of the road, the alternator had died and killed the battery, I replaced the alternator and belt, replaced the 6 spark plugs, 3 of which i removed way to easily with my hands and all 6 had an incorrect gap. Initially the car was still rough but now with the new plugs it is drivable but still a little weird on startup and idle and a little bit of the shakes around 60-65mph and seems to be over actively shifting soon as i let off the gas even a little bit. Today I had the check engine light assessed again, now Bank 1 and Bank 2 are lean, still have the B1155 as well as a new C1676 (Battery pack voltage out of range) which light research said it could be ABS module or it could be a false code from being jumped days prior and that code wont clear on its own.
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I've only had the Ex for a few months so I'm still learning... After a trip to Orlando this weekend, I noticed a very faint odor of differential fluid from the driver's side front and rear wheels.
Nothing on the passenger's side. I've inspected the pinions and axles and found no wet areas at all, so I'm a little perplexed. The wheels and axle housings were pretty cool considering a 5 hour round trip.
I was also wondering if what I am smelling is due to the axle vent hoses?
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I am looking for 2002 explorer XLT front differential diagram.
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I have some pretty bad grinding/growling in the front of my 2005 Explorer XLT 4-door. It is ABSOLUTELY NOT a wheel bearing. The noise seems to be coming from the front left wheel, and you can feel it when turning the hub by hand. I've changed that hub twice now (took a chance that the first one was defective), but neither made any difference. Both were torqued to 184 FtLbs per spec.
I took the outboard end of the left front cv shaft out of the hub and turned it by hand, and something at the inboard end felt crunchy. So then I pulled the shaft out and checked it over, and both sets of splines and CV joints are good. Axle shaft bearing in the differential looks good too---rolls well and no visible damage to the rollers. I'm thinking that it's got to be something in the front differential like a carrier bearing. The odd thing is that when I drove it with my Chassis Ear tool hooked up underneath, the noise was picked up at the left front knuckle, with nothing really audible from three different points on the differential case. I'm stumped on this.
Is there any safe way to drive the vehicle with the front CV shafts pulled? I'd like to isolate the front diff to be sure it's the source of the noise.
The noise does quiet way down in right turns, but the FR hub bearing was pretty quiet with the Chassis Ear hooked up. The noise starts at 20mph and dissipates above 45mph. Not like what the bad bearings on my Escape did...those just kept getting louder.
Are these Explorers known for front diff weaknesses? How can I find out what gear ratio I have, in case I decide to replace the whole unit (a used one is half the price or less than the rebuild quote I was given by a local shop).
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I just acquired a 2007 Ford explorer. I'm in the process of changing all the fluids and am wondering if there is room to pull the front differential cover off to clean the gunk out of the bottom of the front differential. It looks tight and I'm wondering if the differential or the steering rack and pinion need to be removed to remove the cover or if there is just enough room?
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I have an 01 Ranger 4x4 with 113,000 and have had it for around 2 years. After I bought it I noticed a grinding sound that appeared to come from the front wheels during braking. On my old 97 Ranger I noticed the same sound and had to replace both rotors because the pads had worn to the rivets! So I pulled the front wheels and found I had about 1/2 inch of pad left and the rotors were shiny on both sides. I recently checked them again and a little less pad but the rotors are still shiny. The pads haven't worn far enough to get to the squealer bars yet.
The sound is like the metal on metal sound some have described during all phases of driving but this only occurs intermittently while braking. It doesn't matter if its light braking or heavy it sounds the same when it does it. I do think I may have a warped rotor on at least one side as the truck shakes some when I apply the brakes, especially at higher speed. I have not checked my front bearings visually but there doesn't appear to be much play if any doing a wheel shake test. What it could be and could it be related to a warped rotor?
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I got a 97 f150 single cab short bed. My 4x4 shifter is on the floor and moves. I put in 4x4 and the relay clicks and the light comes on. Same as 4low. Front driveshaft spins but front wheels don't. Could there be a leak in the auto locking hubs? Also I want to manual convert the auto hubs. It can be done but how?
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When I turn the switch on the front wheels don't engage. I replaced the two vacuum solenoids on the firewall no change. I replaced the actuator motor on the transfer case and everything worked....once. Tried to go around the back of the house thought I was in 4x4 but front wheels not engaging again. buried in mud. I let it set there overnight. Went out earlier started it and put it in 4x4 and it started puling out front wheels engaged. As soon as I gave it a little gas the front wheels became disengaged and it wouldn't go anywhere. I made several more attempts and no luck. I did the vacuum test where you turn the heater on panel and if there's a vacuum leak somewhere the heater blower will default to defrost. It passed this test so I'm assuming there is no leak anywhere. Why it worked right after I replaced the transfer case motor and again only after I got stuck and it set in the mud overnight?
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My son wrecked his 01 Honda, front drivers side front. After replacing his wheel and headlight, his front wheels will turn left but won't turn right all the way.
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I really enjoy my 2009 Smart car, excellent gas mileage, fun to drive too. The only drawback is all the dust coming off the front disc brakes that makes my front wheels look filthy even when the rest of the car is clean. Are there other brake pads that work as good as the factory originals yet don't give off so much dust?
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2001 Chevy Silverado, 1500 4wd. 135k miles. Front passenger wheel squeaks when rolled forward or back. Checked brakes and they are fine. While I had it apart, I could hear the squeak which sounded inside. I don't know the terminology, but there is a bar between two rubber boots. The squeak sounded as if it was coming from the boot near the center of the truck where there are four bolts.
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2001 Toyota Sequoia LTD, 115,000 miles, replaced cal & discs & steering rack bushings early last year. Lately after 20 to 30 minutes of hwy at 70mph touching the brakes to shave off 10 to 15mph causes heavy vibrations from the front brakes like the wheels aren't round. No lights, ABS or VSC, no noise from the ABS unit. Same in 2WD, 4WD, VSC on or off. Touch the brakes from 70mph and it feels like slowing/stopping on washboard??? Tech checked, no codes present . Brakes function fine around town as does the ABS & VSC, alignment good.
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Have an 08 f150 crew and love it. I have noticed though that when its in 4x4, it seems as thought the right front wheel is always engaged. Why it's not letting the 4x4 float back and forth from right to left??
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Working on a 2004 Ford F150 4.6L. No 4x4. Replaced both IWE front actuators. (Neither one would hold vacuum). Still no 4x4. I realize I have vacuum issues and may be excessive wear on gear teeth of the front wheel bearings. The issue that really bothers me is the front differential. Having placed the truck on jack stands and running in 4x4 should both front wheels be turning ? The right front wheel turns and the left front does not move. Is this normal or should I pull the front differential cover off ?
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Thought I would try and fill up the front. Diff well not as easy as the rear diff. They make a special hose or some thing. To put in the bottle so u can get some Gear oil in ?
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My front differential is leaking. Are there any special Ford tools required to replace the seal? Or is it simply bolt (and fluid) removal, seal replacement, fill with new fluid. Any tips or heads-up on this?
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2006 F150, SuperCrew with 5.4
I just replaced the firewall actuator valve for the hubs, and went to try out the 4 wheel drive. The hubs engage and lock to the axle shaft, the transfer case engages and locks to the front driveline, but the front differential isn't doing anything. Is there an actuator for the front or did something break inside?
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My front diff is busted, and I mean bad.. I can barely even run the truck 5mph, and it's very loud. The diff casing is even busted. I want to just disable it to drive in 2wd. What's the easiest way to do it? It won't disable using the push button control.
Can I just remove all the locking stuff in the front wheels, so there's nothing for the axles to grab on, and manually turn the solenoid at the transfer case to shut off the front wheel axle?
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So back in mid May while driving the inlaws back from the airport in our newly aquired 2004 Mercury Mountaineer 4.6 AWD with 100K on the clock, I started to hear a high pitched whine. Stopped at the rest area and found gear oil coating the underside of the car. It was coming from the differential vent. Long story short, the axle came off where it was supposed to be in the differential and cratered it. Got it repaired through the extended service plan I had gotten with the vehicle. Fast forward to today. About 70 miles from home again at highway speeds I hear the same whine and see smoke, pull over, same oil. Get towed back to the same dealership from the previous time and its sitting in their lot til they can look at it on Monday or Tuesday. Fortunately the dealership does warantee their work and parts so it should be covered, its just frustrating.
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2000 Excursion, Limited, 4X4, 6.8L, V10. My right front inner differential seal is leaking. I have researched and found out that I have to remove the pumpkin gear assembly from the front differential to get at the seal.
Do I need any special tools to get the seals seated back into the differential? Any instructions or a list of parts needed?
I went to fordparts.com and entered my vin number but it makes no reference to the parts of the front differential only the rear.
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