Ford - Explorer :: 2002 - Liftgate Handle No Longer Works
Apr 30, 2012
I have a 2002 Ford explorer sport. The liftgate handle no longer works. I took the rear panel off thinking it was one of the rods' clips were broken off. As it turns out it is the little pivoting bolt that attaches to the handle. It wasn't broken, but just disconnected from the handle. I reconnected it and it worked for about 6 or 7 opens and then it popped out of the handle again. I reconnected it and this time it only stayed in for 2 opens. What do I do here? Is there a way to buy that little yellow clip that connects the pivot bolt to the handle? Do I have to get this from a dealer or can I get it from an autoparts store? Or, can I just fix it somehow and not have to buy anything? Also, what is it called so I can describe it without a 30 minute story and sounding like a layman?
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I have a 2002 Hyundai Accent. The press button inside the car no longer works so the A/C has been stuck ON for some time now. I don't live in a hot area so going without A/C wouldn't bother me too much. Is there an easy (read cheap) way to simply turn off the A/C from under the hood? My brother says he wants to remove the A/C belt but his knowledge of cars is often dicey. Might fix the problem, might blow up the car.
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So the story begins last year when my inside front passenger handle no longer would open the door. I replaced the actuator with one from Ebay which worked great for a few months. Then suddenly everytime that I would press the fob twice to unlock the pass. doors the locks would unlock and then continue trying to unlock for about ten seconds. After pulling every door panel and unhooking each actuator individually, only after unhooking the one that was already replaced did the issue stop. It had a warranty so it was replaced and worked fine for about a month. Now I'm having an issue with my doors not staying locked. No matter how I try and lock them (with the exception of manually flipping each lock) they lock and automatically unlock like a door is open or key is in the ignition.
I tried reprogramming the locks to shut off the autolock thinking that may possibly fix the issue however even holding down on the lock button doesn't keep them locked so.....no reprogram mode.
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2006 Accent. Today I was stunned to find the inside driver's handle no longer opened the door : I'm sitting here with my door panel almost completely off, the only thing I'm stuck on is the manual window crank
I've been searching around google and here, all I can really find is that it's a huge PITA, and you're supposed to use a hook to pull out a C-Clip.
I really can't see this C-Clip. Or even make contact with it, if it is there. I've been pulling the crank back and peaking inside ever so slightly and I'm just not seeing anything. With a hook in there, I spun the crank hoping I'd feel a 'bump' or 'nudge' of the clip against my hook (bent metal wire), but honestly I've got nothing.
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Recently my car has been overheating and then when I take it the shop they can't find no problem whatsoever. Also my ac is no longer working. The fans might need to be replaced.
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2002 GLS 2.7. Locking system has been working fine. Today while trying to load groceries through the liftgate, it would not open. Unlocked if from the key entry in the liftgate and from the front door. You can hear the locks upen but when you pull the handle, the liftgate does not unlock.
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I had my car serviced a few weeks ago and realized that one of my Smart Keys (the one I was using when I drove to the dealership) no longer works with the car. It won't unlock the doors or start the car (neither wirelessly nor when plugged in to the dash). The other fob works fine. Are there any scenarios where a Smart Key fob gets rejected from the system?
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The DC Power/cigarette lighter no longer works. When I plug in a phone charger it lights up for a split second then goes out. This leads me to believe it is not a fuse because I don't think it would get any power at all...but I'm not sure and I don't even know where to look for the fuse to check it.
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I pulled it out last week to fix my aftermarket reverse monitor, so when i pulled the console i tested the light make sure i didn't screwed up anything. Then it was turned on for 2 seconds and slowly died. Since then, none of the button work !!! no sunroof, no homelink, nothing.
I've checked fuse already, 27, 35, 36 I believe. i replaced them all, still not working.
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My speedometer no longer works. A mechanic had the dash out but said I would need a new instrument cluster. However, as I told him, it started failing whenever it rained. Once the car dried out, the speedometer would work again. For awhile anyway but now it's not working at all. I'm thinking there's a sending unit maybe on the transmission that's faulty?
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I have noticed on my 2011 Elantra, that the heated seat no longer remains on. I turn it on, level 1 or level 2, and a second later it turns off.
This only happens for the driver seat, passenger seat works fine. Why this might be?
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The front door on our '99 explorer opens, but it pops open at the last bit of handle pull. The handle lifts a lot and just before the handle seems like it won't pivot or lift any more the door finally unlatches. I am sure something is simply wearing out, but where would be the most likely suspect?
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Which way can I go here for a spare key fob that no longer works? Will I have to buy a brand new one or can I just replace the battery inside?
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2003 Santa afe 2.7 litre: So for some reason the key ignition cylinder light no longer works, but no issues with the ignition at all. What powers the light, is there a specific part of the cylinder I need to check or replace or do I have to replace the whole cylinder. Would a another cylinder I pick up from the junk yard work?
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When I turn my Cruise Control "On" it will light up green on my dashboard, However when I press the "set" button to set the speed nothing happens. It was working fine a few weeks ago. Could it be a fuse? If so what fuse? How I can fix this? 2011 Sonata
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It happened almost a week ago and had plenty of time to dry out. I heard that the keys will usually come back to life but unfortunately mine did not. Tried changing the battery too. No luck. The key still works in the door. It's an annoyance not being able to open the trunk or lock/open all doors remotely.
Are there any alternative ways to do this cheaper that I'm overlooking? There are wireless keys on ebay that can be bought. But is there a way to get them programmed other than going to the VW dealer and getting fleeced?
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IHeart Radio has stopped working. Getting a connectivity error. Pandora works great.
Verizon Samsung S5 and a 2014 ES 300h. Phone has Android 4.4.4 with the latest Lexus Enform app. I've deleted and repaired the bluetooth connection and reloaded the Lexus app on my phone.
Also, bluetooth will randomly disconnect when making calls occasionally.
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05 Prius steering wheel Air Recirc button doesn't work.
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I have a 2006 elantra. I just got it back from having a new clutch put in. My passenger side headlight, low beam, no longer works. I tried two different new bulbs and it still doesn't work. All the other lights on the car are working, including the high beam and running light on the passenger side. Is there something that would have been disconnected when they replaced the clutch? Is there something I should check?
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Friend of mine said that the air conditioning on her 2001 Ford Explorer only works when her car is in idle. She said that when she steps on the gas the fan continues to work but doesn't blow cold air. If she stops at a stop sign it works... and so on.
She has taken it to a shop that specializes in air conditioning and he checked and cleaned off a few connections (whatever that means) and thought that would do it but it didn't. She is going to go back this weekend.
I told her that I would think that a specialist would see the idle/drive issue as a good clue as to what the problem is.
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Actually I know how Control Trac works in theory, but I mean in the real world. For example, when going through emissions we put it on the standard, rear wheel only rollers. If I understand it correctly, both driveshafts are always turning and if the system detects the back driveshaft going faster than the front it interprets this is as a loss of traction and can route up to 100%of the power to the front wheels. So how, when it was in auto 4X4 mode, was it able to go on the rear wheel only rollers? I am (assuming) that both driveshafts were turning at the same speed so the system didn't send any power to the front wheels. I know the 4X4 high and low work fine.
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