Ford - Explorer :: Air Conditioning Only Works When Car Is In Idle
Oct 18, 2013
Friend of mine said that the air conditioning on her 2001 Ford Explorer only works when her car is in idle. She said that when she steps on the gas the fan continues to work but doesn't blow cold air. If she stops at a stop sign it works... and so on.
She has taken it to a shop that specializes in air conditioning and he checked and cleaned off a few connections (whatever that means) and thought that would do it but it didn't. She is going to go back this weekend.
I told her that I would think that a specialist would see the idle/drive issue as a good clue as to what the problem is.
View 2 Replies
Advertisement
Recently my truck is only blowing heat or air conditioning on full blast in my 2004 Ford F-150 (New style, not heritage).
Level 1, 2, or 3 is exactly the same and blows almost nothing, then if I switch it to 4 it is full power.
I just don't know what exactly I will need to change. I know it would be a resistor pack somewhere that probably failed, I just don't know where it would be.
Do I just need a new control switch, or do I need a new heater fan?
View 5 Replies
2006 Prius with 58,000 miles. Drive in San Diego and Palm Springs. Earlier this year, the A/C would just cut off, maybe about once a week. The control panel indicated the A/C should be on, but absolutely no function. Drive around for 20 minutes, and all of a sudden, it would come on and work perfectly. It is starting to happen on a daily basis now...sometimes it won't work from start, other times it just cuts out while driving. I can park the car and shut the car off with the A/C working, then come back 30 minutes, and no A/C. It doesn't seem to matter which setting is selected. The control panel accepts all commands, but no function changes when the A/C has shut itself off. Loose connection somewhere? It works about 90% of the time, and blows very cold. When it shuts itself off, no air passes through the vents at all.
View 6 Replies
The air conditioning in my 2002 Chevy Trailblazer works but never gets really cold. What is the best course of action to get it working better? A do it yourself kit or an auto repair shop?
View 1 Replies
2005 Dodge Ram 1500 SLT Big Horn, 5.8L V8 Hemi my air conditioning only works when I'm driving forward, and does not work at all any more when I'm sitting still at an idle. this is a new problem. the A/C has worked like a champ for the past year (since I started using this vehicle). I even refilled it by myself last summer, with no issues until now. when it is at idle, I hear a clicking coming from the A/C system, and the RPM's arch a little bit. then it clicks again, and the RPM's go back down. it does this 2-3 times a minute. also when at idle, the air is VERY HOT, considerably warmer than the outside air. also, I have a pressure gauge for the A/C system (came with the refill kit last summer) and it says that the system is holding too much pressure. it suggests a possible mechanical problem.
View 8 Replies
Actually I know how Control Trac works in theory, but I mean in the real world. For example, when going through emissions we put it on the standard, rear wheel only rollers. If I understand it correctly, both driveshafts are always turning and if the system detects the back driveshaft going faster than the front it interprets this is as a loss of traction and can route up to 100%of the power to the front wheels. So how, when it was in auto 4X4 mode, was it able to go on the rear wheel only rollers? I am (assuming) that both driveshafts were turning at the same speed so the system didn't send any power to the front wheels. I know the 4X4 high and low work fine.
View 4 Replies
97 Explorer XLT. Some weird stuff: All of a sudden my O/D won't work unless the headlamp switch is turned on, and fog lamps work on both high and low beam.
View 1 Replies
I had just picked my car up from the shop after getting a new 3" downpipe installed (welded to stock cat) and attached to stock catback exhaust. I mention this because I never had this problem before and have already had installed a TIP, boost hose kit, DV, larger intercooler, and breather hose kit, all for a Unitronic Stage 2 tune.
So I go to turn on the A/C and the idle drops to about 400 rpm, almost stalls, interior shudders, vacuum jumps from about 20 to 10 as the engine revs itself a bit, and then it settles back out and the car runs fine (awesome with the new tune) and A/c works great. I have used the A/C a bit since getting all other upgrades done and never had a problem, or I didn't notice, but I'm wondering why a new downpipe would make a difference. I tried turning it on and off a few more times and the same things happened at idle, but after that initial dip and near-stall the engine was just fine around town and on the highway.
View 6 Replies
The air conditioning of my 2000 Passat wagon cuts out when the car is not in motion. It works great when the car is in motion but not at all when stuck in traffic or at a stop light.
View 11 Replies
I have a 2002 Ford explorer sport. The liftgate handle no longer works. I took the rear panel off thinking it was one of the rods' clips were broken off. As it turns out it is the little pivoting bolt that attaches to the handle. It wasn't broken, but just disconnected from the handle. I reconnected it and it worked for about 6 or 7 opens and then it popped out of the handle again. I reconnected it and this time it only stayed in for 2 opens. What do I do here? Is there a way to buy that little yellow clip that connects the pivot bolt to the handle? Do I have to get this from a dealer or can I get it from an autoparts store? Or, can I just fix it somehow and not have to buy anything? Also, what is it called so I can describe it without a 30 minute story and sounding like a layman?
View 1 Replies
Was going to leave the other morning and put it into reverse and nothing happened. Tried every other gear and works fine. Reverse is the only thing giving me problems right now. Tried doing some research on my own, because I can't afford a tranny rebuild. I was hoping it was either the solenoid or low/reverse band. I don't know about the band, because it works fine in low2 and low1....
View 2 Replies
My son just got a 2001 Explorer Sport. Among the minor issues that need taken care of is an interesting situation with the wipers. The wipers only function when you press the wash button. It operates fine with wash, it parks fine after wash cycle. However, I get no response from any settings in the normal wiper switch. Where to start looking? Bad connector? Switch? It does have a tilt wheel, wire pulled out of connector?
View 14 Replies
1996 Sport Trac. Cruise control works. Speedometer works for one mile or so mornings only. New sending unit in transfer case. What's up?
View 2 Replies
I have a 1997 ford explorer, the passenger side rear window only works in one direction, I have tested motor and it does work in both directions reversing the polarity, checked switch by checking voltage on each prong of plug (where motor plugs into harness), and does get 12 volts on each line as switch is being activated,I think there may be a ground problem on the one side that does not work, where to start looking??
View 1 Replies
A friend has 2001 Explorer, whose dome light isn't working from the driver's door. Did a quick Google and found a number of excellent answers and how-tos on this site, all focusing on the door switch. Problem: the door ajar light works properly, presumably clearing the switch.
My understanding is that the dome light is triggered by the GEM via a relay. When I considering the following:
- The dome light turns on via the headlight switch;
- The dome light turns on by opening the passenger door;
- The dome light does not turn on by opening the driver's door; and
- The driver's side door ajar functionality works -
I am led to conclude that the fault would lie in the GEM module. If the GEM is indeed bad, then the light will probably just stay out. But is there something else that I might be missing?
View 3 Replies
1997 Ford Econoline HD Club Wagon E350 2wd 250k 6.8l V-10 Factory front and rear air, rear evap is there but all other components were removed from previous owner to use as a work van.
Air works great other than at idle it warms up some, not a real big issue at the moment, and also has a small vac leak somewhere as under heavy throttle or towing any bog will change vents to defrost and floor. not a big deal at the moment.
My issue right now is I was driving yesterday down the interstate air on full blast freezing me real good (awesome at speed on these 100 degree days in NC) and all of a sudden ambient air, no more awesomeness.
I pulled over to take a quick look but was way too hot to sit on the side of the interstate and look further, got the ole girl home and looked at it today.
Compressor kicks on as it should, but all the lines stay the same no condensation, blend door is moving to adjust from any vents the control tells it to.
My question is if it was low on freon the compressor wouldnt kick on at all, and if its up and cycling correctly why aren't the lines becoming cold? the temp door is also working as with the van warm the air will blow hot then when i switch it back to cold it gets cool just not cold, temp of air around blower.
View 14 Replies
As the title says the 2004 Elantra only has a/c at idle and low speed. It started with the a/c stopping, and a mechanic gave me as story about the wiring going to the compressor being faulty. He jumped a wire from the drivers side fan to the compressor. It turned on the compressor and I had cold air again. or so i thought.
Now, it's cold at idle or slow around town stuff, but as soon as I get on the highway it stops working and blows outside temp air. Is it the compressor? If not, I wondered if the fan (drivers side) is turning at highway speeds and not back on till I stop.
View 5 Replies
I have a 2000 Explorer, 4.0 V6 SOHC w/ 135K miles. All of a sudden it has an idle issue that's driving me nuts and the dealership can't fix. It has been in the shop 4 times for this problem so far.
It accelerates and cruises great, but when I come to a stoplight, the idle goes down to 900, then suddenly drops to 600 and idles rough. The "Check Engine" light is NOT lit. There is no hesitation, backfire or any other running problem. I have had plugs and wires, PCV valve, IAC valve and MAF sensor replaced. Technicians have checked for vacuum leaks and intake air gasket leaks and have found nothing.
I can "power brake" it and smooth it out some and even turning on the a/c or defroster boosts the idle and works a little. Shifting to neutral or park does not raise the idle like previous cars I owned. I only drive this car back and forth to work, about 1000 miles a month, and I'd like to make this Explorer last at least 200K miles. We just got a Ford Escape and I do not want another car payment right now!
View 14 Replies
After replacing a faulty spark plug wire on my '97 explorer, I started the engine (4.0 liter pushrod) and noticed the idle much lower than it was previously- to the point it now borders on stalling. The wire I replaced was on the right side (if facing engine from front) closest to the firewall. I thought I may have worked a vacuum hose loose when feeding the wire under the intake, but I checked and checked and saw nothing amiss. What I may've did (if anything) to cause this problem?
View 7 Replies
1999 Explorer starts then will not idle unless it is put into gear. It only happens once in a while...
View 2 Replies
Background info: Had a blown head gasket and a mechanic used a sealant on it to patch it up. Car went from not turning on to running ok
Problem: at idle the engine creaks. It isn't a ticking or knocking but definitely more of a creaking sound. Can't figure out if this is safe for the car to be driven and what could be causing it.
I have a video of the sound .... Potentially a head gasket that was partially fixed maybe??
View 17 Replies
