It may sound silly, but can I lift my 04 explorer by the rear differential to change brakes etc? I have NOT had a Independant suspension vehicle prior to this and dont want to mess up anything. If I cannot use that point to lift it, where is a point to lift it using a floor jack so I can service the rear of the vehicle after I place it on jack stands?
View 7 RepliesWell i picked up a 96 4x4 with the 4.0 a few weeks ago and been fixing stuff weekly that i find wrong. One thing i noticed was the rear diff was leaky but couldn't get the fill plug out so left if for now. Last night my wife was on interstate and it just started making a loud noise so she pulls over calls me. I get there and drive it and it makes a woowoowoo noise and it got louder as speed increased. She was 3 miles from the exit so i drove it about 15-20 to get it off interstate than another 2 miles to her sisters. We let it sit for a few hours and found a flatbed to haul it home, and when we finally got home i drove it off the flat bed and now it was making a loud clunky noise. Parked it in drive till today. Cracked open the rear and no fluid came out.
Inspecting all the gears looked good no metal in bottom so i went and got a new rear cover and 3 qt. of fluid. Put it back together and the woowoowoo was still there but seemed to slowly go away as i drove it around the block. So what else could be going on here or do i need to drive it and warm up the fluid so it circulates? I also noticed a sheeee sound like metal on metal when braking but i changed all 4 rotors and both pads last week but i noticed the brakes in the rear that look like drum brakes was bare but i assume that is only for the ebrake so didn't bother changing them yet. Could those be hitting the inside of the rotor and making the metal to metal noise?
The rear differential center section on my wife's 02 Explorer has a slow drip that appears to be coming from the rear cover plate. I have worked on the solid 8.8 and 10.25 axles but never on a independent center section. Does the whole center section have to be lowered to change the seal on the cover? If so, do the axles have to be pulled to do so?
View 3 RepliesI have a 7.3 2003 Excursion. Should I change the gearing in the rear differential to make the truck go faster at lower RPMs? I know that will decrease my towing capability.
View 12 RepliesI have a quick question. I am gonna change the fluid in my 01 f250 rear end. it has 410 gears and a limited slip diff. if i use full synthetic gear oil do i have to add the limited slip additive or just the 75w-140 full synthetic gear oil.
View 14 RepliesIs there a gasket to replace?
View 1 RepliesI have a Honda PIlot 2011 which I took to my local Shell service shop . The code the car showed was B1236. One of the many things they did was to change the differential fluid. After I picked up the car from the shop, I noticed a slight sound from the rear wheels when I would make a right turn. I took it back to the shop and had them look at it. We did a few sharp right and left turns and we heard nothing. I drove the car away and a few days later noticed the sound to be more noticeable. At this time, I took it to my Honda Dealer. They noticed that the fluid in the rear differential did not seem to be right one and the sound was because of that . Can a wrong fluid damage the rear differential? They are also recommending that we change the rear differential which off course is extremely pricy.
View 7 RepliesMy 2004 Ford F150 only has 20,000 miles on it but makes a shudder from stop turning left or right. I asked the dealership about it and was told that it was likely the clutch pack in the rear differential sticking. I was told I could try changing out the fluid while also adding a few ounces of some special lubricant. But, they said it wasn't a guaranteed fix. Apparently, they have tried this fluid change and drive the vehicle in figure 8's trying to get the lubricant between the plates. They also said that this was a known problem to Ford. Lastly, I was told it wouldn't hurt anything to keep driving it. I checked some other online forums for Ford F150 owners and this does seem to be a recurring problem. I'm thinking about having the clutch pack replaced but obviously hate to spend the money if I don't have to.
View 4 RepliesI got a new to me truck. It's a 2004 F150 Lariat 4x4 with the 5.4L. It's got a whine that I believe is coming from the rear differential. I'm going to change the fluid. My axle code is 26 which I believe is 3.73 non-limited slip. My owners manual says to use 75w-90 but I've seen a lot of posts on here that say to use 75w-140. Which is right or better? Also, is my rear differential the 9.75"?
View 14 RepliesI have a 2007 ford f150 FX2 5.4 with 3.55 limited slip rear end. It has 68,000 miles and would like to change the rear differential oil. I have read and I know the oil it requires is 75w-140 plus the friction modifier. I would like to use mobile one. But was reading and the mobile one sites states that is already has friction modifiers. Is that ok to use on my truck? Using mobile one and not adding the extra modifiers?
Also some other brands say they have friction modifiers as well. Should I use mobile one and add extra friction modifier or just go with what it has already?
Mobil 1 Synthetic Gear Lube 75W-140 LS contains special friction modifiers designed for limited slip-type differentials. In most applications, the addition of special LS (limited slip) additives is not required. For axles requiring the highest level of limited-slip performance, OEM specific LS additives can be added to this fluid.
Alright so about a few weeks ago I started hearing what sounded like it was time for new brake pads. But the other day I turned the corner and my neighbor came up to me and said he heard my truck making a metal on metal type noise. So I said okay fml, took it to a local mechanic.
Called me today and said the brakes are fine but it's rear differential, he said they put the truck on the lift and used the stethoscope and heard a metal noise inside the rear differential and said that the fluid in there was very metallic.
I bought this truck about 7 months ago from the dealership. It has a total 90,000 miles on it. What does it look like this could cost me worst comes to worst?
I have a 2006 fx4. And I am about it change the rear differential fluid. i want to know if i have a a limited slip differential.
View 7 RepliesI am getting a little frustrated with a leak on my rear differential. The leak is on the front of differential rear-end just behind the four bolts you take off to remove the driveshaft. When you take the driveshaft out, there is a single bolt and the seal behind that is leaking. Here is my dilemma, I called my local ford dealership to find out what the torque rating on that bolt is so when I replace the seal I don't over-tighten. He told me there is no torque rating on it because I have to tighten, measure, tighten, measure the bolt. I was lost, I didn't have a clue what he was talking about.
View 6 RepliesI have a (new to me about 40 days ago) 2004 F250 SD Lariat Crew Cab 4x4 6.0 diesel. 137,xxx miles.
I thought Id gotten a good "deal" on this truck when Id bought it however the last 40 days have been very expensive. The "stealership" I bought the truck from was on a 35mph rd and I couldn't test drive it at highway speeds. So I bought the thing "knowing" there were a few "minor" sniggles wrong... however once about 15 miles from the dealership/stealership and on a highway, the real fun began.
I had a terrible shake, shimmy and groan/whine at speed no matter if the truck was in gear or not.
Since that time ive repaired/replaced:
1) Both front hubs/bearings
2) Both front hub locks
3) Both front brakes and calipers
4) 4 New Hankook tires
5) Ford Dealership Diesel engine service/lube (essentially an expensive oil change)
6) Ford Dealership transmission service
7) Drained (with a siphon) and refilled the rear differential + OEM Ford friction mod.
Ive eliminated problem after problem after problem with this thing.... and yes, the truck does get better with each repair HOWEVER.... Ive still had this groan/whine from the rear end of the truck and a rumble from starting at a dead stop despite my changing out the gear oil in the rear diff.
So I take it today to a local shop (that I trust/sort of) for a 2nd opinion. Their technician takes the truck out for a test run and comes back in 10 min saying he has no clue but the sound was annoying and he'd need to put it on a lift if I could wait.
I saw the truck go up... a few parts get wiggled, some head scratching, saw the truck go down, watched another tech jump in and 2 techs run it out for a test drive.
When it came back, I watched the truck go up again on the lift... this time however they just lifted the rear and with one guy in a pit the other revved the motor. I watched as the wheels spun. A few minutes later both techs came in and said my "rear differential was shot".
They pulled the diff mag plug which was caked in metal deposits. It looked the same when I pulled it off the first time and did the fluid change (yes i cleaned off the plug before putting it back). I had seen differentials (in the past) have deposits like that before on plugs but the units were still good and such deposits were considered casualty of wear and tear.
However im being told the rear end is shot.. When I inquired about just replacing the internals of the diff, it was a simple bolt in/bolt out job.
After a routine brake pad replacement the brake pedal hits the floor when applied with normal force. The pedal feels like a badly leaking master cylinder, but prior to the pad replacement the brake pedal was firm as a rock with no drop at all. If I pump the brakes the pedal will come up to normal height, but if I then maintain light pressure the pedal will again sink to the floor.
1. Truck was braking fine, however pad 3/4 worn
2. Replaced front calipers, rotors and pads
3. Replaced front brake feed hoses
4. Replaced rear pads
5. Started engine
6. Started bleeding from furthest point from MC a) passenger rear, b) Driver Rear, c) passenger front, d)driver front. Did it two times...
Still, brake travels all the way to the fire wall and never develops tension. Moreover, sometimes, when person pumping brake puts pressure and i open bleed, no fluid comes out. Could it be a failed master cylinder??? I tend to think it's not because 24hrs ago, the pedal felt fine and the truck was braking ok.... So much for preventive maintenance.
I want to change the fluid in both the front and rear differential's of my explorer. I called the Ford dealer to find out what fluid is required for each. I was told 80W90 for the front and 75W140 with LSD additive for the rear.
what fluid type is needed and how to find out what differential's I have?
Like the title says. 04 Explorer.
No transmission issues ever. Immediately after doing an oil change myself for first time, get some transmission dropouts, slipping out of gear at stop lights, waiting way too long to go into 2nd, etc.
Then, started getting OD off light, and service engine. Error codes show something about wrong setting for 2nd, 5th, solenoid error... a bunch of 'em.
Anyway, guy at parts store says I must have knocked a wire loose causing misreads between cpu and transmission. It's a real pain getting under there since I'm using jack stands, so exactly what I should be looking for or at least the exact name of a connector or something so I can look it up.
Changing the front diff fluid on truck. I was looking at mine today and it looks like the top bolts will be difficult to reach.
I also tried to suck the fluid out of the fill hole but couldn't really fit a tube into the differential.
I have recently changed all 4 rotors and brake pads, i blead the brake line, replaced tires about 4 months ago and replaced lower front ball joints. The problem is that the whole explorer shakes including steering whee when you brake between 55-40 MPH. I thought by doing a complete brake job, it would solve my problem. I'm running miserable not knowing what the problem is.
View 4 RepliesI am looking for 2002 explorer XLT front differential diagram.
View 1 RepliesI currently have the rear axle shafts off the truck. I took off, cleaned then put on the rear diff cover.
I live in an area that does nothing but form rust anywhere and everywhere in very little time.
I don't want rust forming in the rear diff gears - can I fill the rear diff up ? Or will it leak out of the rear shaft holes ? Can I fill it up halfway then ?