Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: High Idle After Warm Up
Jul 28, 2012
1999 F-150 5.4L. I just removed the clutch fan and installed two electric fans about two weeks ago. The same evening, I took a short drive and noticed the idle was way higher than it normally is. Its idling about 800 to 900 RPM. Now, the weird part.....Startup is normal, as in the idle jumps up for the warmup, then drops to the normal 600 to 700 range. after a short drive, the idle is high and noticeable at a stop.
Sometimes, if I let the truck idle, after about 10 mins or so the idle will slowly start creeping up a little at a time till it hits about 900 or so and will level off. I have tried the IAC, I have tried disconnecting the battery and letting the PCM reboot, I have checked ALL my vacuum lines, I have checked my TPS sensor and voltages, checked my MAF sensor and voltages, fuel pressures, everything I could think of...
I hooked up my scanner (Auto X-Ray 6000) and checked all my running data, nothing really sticks out to me as outta whack. No codes set..
View 14 Replies
Advertisement
Alright so I have an 03 5.4 with 144000 miles. once it warms up to temperature it has a miss and low end power is low and no fuel mileage gets 12 to 13 if I'm lucky. From idle to 3000 rpm its doggy get it over 3000 rpm it runs great. All new plugs and coil packs. What it could be. When the motor is cold it runs great has most its power.
View 3 Replies
I have a 2003 Toyota Echo 1.5. About a year ago the cel went off and on intermittently and I got a p0511 code. For the past few months, the light has stayed on steadily except for a 2 week period when it stayed off. When the cel is on , the car idles slightly low for about a second just after start up. When the engine is warm, it idles steadily about 400 rpm above normal idle. When the cel is not on, the idle is perfect both at start up and when the engine is warm. I did take off the IAC and cleaned it, but it already looked spotless inside and seemed to operate smoothly.
View 2 Replies
So, yesterday I noticed the idle was higher than normal. In drive I'm at 950 to 1000 rpm and in park it's about 1150 to 1200. It's kind of like a cold start but never backs off and does this when things are warmed up also.
I replaced the IAC Valve about a month ago cause I got tired or cleaning it. The condition was a low idle and fluctuation when I came to a stop.
To test for the new conditions I have been reading that if I pull the plug on the IAC that the idle should drop if it's working?
If there is no drop in RPM then it could be the TPS? 1999 5.4....
View 9 Replies
I've got a 2003 ford f-150 with a 4.6l 150000 miles. when it is started the rpms are at 2000 for about a min. and a half then it drops to normal when its started cold. when started at operating temp. The rpms are at 2000 for about 30 to 45 sec then drop to normal. The iac, upper and lower intake gaskets, intake run controller valve, dfbe, low intake and shield, coolant temp. sensor, intake air temp. sensor, egr, egr regulator valve, maf, ecm have all been swapped out no vacuum leaks all line in good condition tps voltage reading of 0.84v...
View 2 Replies
I will try to keep this short. Picked up a 2000 f-150 4.2 for my nephews first truck last night. Bought it blind against my better judgement, but the price was right. Got it home, odometer didn't work, fixed the solder joint and was happy it only had 132k on it. Heater core was plugged solid. Got it flushed and at least now its has luke warm heat until I have time for a full coolant flush and new core.
Next on my list is the high idle and engine lights. Its idles around 1300-1700, cold or hot sometimes it drops down. I only have a cheap scanner, but I have 2 codes. PO171 and PO174. Where should I start with diagnosing this? I would assume vacuum leak. Any common spots to check on these?
View 14 Replies
corrected vaccum leak. Still high idle and obd2 code 1506???
View 14 Replies
So my F150 (with 4r70w) has a weird issue. If I jump on it (only briefly) and then drive normally it gets stuck in a high idle/late shift mode. Sometimes it won't even shift until 3500 - 4000 RPM. If I stop and restart it will usually go back to normal (depending on how warm the tranny is, the warmer it is, the less likely to fix on restart). Now I understand that if you give it a lot of gas it will shift later, but like I said, it get's stuck in this mode even if I have a light foot after. The really weird thing is that it does this after cruising on the highway for a while. Also, the OD light does not flash.
As I'm writing this, I just realized that a common thing is warm tranny fluid. I'm not sure if it's the tranny because the high idle and the fact that it will shift fine if babied. There are no codes.
Here's what I've done: Flushed tranny fluid and filter (full flush, not just the little bit with the filter change), replaced TPS, replaced PCV, replaced IAC valve, replaced a few vac lines, and cleaned entire throttle body (including EGR valve).
View 8 Replies
I have a '98 F150 4.2l with 230k miles on it. A couple of days ago when starting, I noticed that the engine kept racing instead of idling down like it normally does and the weather here in Arkansas has approached the 80 degree mark. The engine also doesn't idle down when shifting (I have a manual tranny). Where to start? I don't have any codes stored other than two for bank 1 and bank 2 running lean but they popped up many miles ago. I'm thinking either a vacuum leak or throttle control. I checked the operation of the cable and the throttle valve and they appear to be fine. Maybe the idle air control?
View 4 Replies
High mileage 1999 4.6 4wd 5 spd: Needed to replace the rear ABS sensor and decided to clean the throttle body too while the battery was unplugged. Cleaned it around the butterfly and not much else. Truck idled at 750 BEFORE cleaning the TB. Now it fluctuates between 820 and 950 rpms. Also tends to stay at a higher rpm after pushing in the clutch and taking it out of gear.
Did a thorough check for vacuum leaks, nothing. After research, I cleaned the IAC and re installed (battery was disconnected then too). No improvement. Unplugged the IAC while running- ZERO change in idle. Installed new IAC, no change whatsoever. Unplugged NEW IAC, no change whatsoever. Is there an issue with the PCM needing time to fully re learn? Am I missing something.
View 14 Replies
My trucks symptoms include a illuminated service engine soon light, sometimes a high rpm idle, and sometimes a rough erratic idle. When a scan was done it indicated the oxygen sensor was defective. The issue is: which specific one (there are multiple oxygen sensors) or how could I check or determine the faulty one for sure. I am trying to economize and replace only the bad one myself if possible. I own a good multimeter, can it determine the bad one? 1999 F-150 4.2 Litre V6 oxygen sensor dillemna....
View 7 Replies
I drive a hot mess of a vehicle. It is a 1997 for taurus that's got more than its fair share of miles on it.My big brother drove this car when he was 16 and I am 22. I am a college kid and I don't do much to my car knowing it will die soon but at the same time I don't have much money to do much. We have a good relationship most of the time and I gladly provide gas and regular oil changes in exchange for transportation.
My car when its warm outside especially idles very rough. So rough that at times it stalls out. It seems to happen most often and to the worst degree when the outside temp is very high and it has been running recently and I'm trying to start it up again. At other times and temperatures it has idled rough but not bad enough to stall. Once I start driving, or moving, its fine. The rough idle makes my car sound like a boat, that's the best way I can explain it.
Why my car does this? How to fix it?
View 2 Replies
I noticed this evening that my low pressure oil pressure was much higher than normal. I have a LPOP gauge that typically reads 12 psi or so at idle This evening I was seeing 75psi with a warm engine. Every little acceleration pegged the gauge over 100psi.
The factory non-functioning gauge says that everything is normal.
I am about due for an oil change. I was thinking that I would change the oil and filter as soon as possible and temporarily plumb in my mechanical gauge to see if the high pressure reading is real or not. I replaced the stock LPOP about 3 years ago with a melling and everything has been golden up until now.
View 6 Replies
I have a 1999 Ford F-150 with 149,000 miles on it and when the engine gets warm it seems to flood its self out. I was told to change fuel filter, no change, I was told maybe the catalytic converters maybe plugged but then was told that wasn't the case either. Another mechanic mentioned some sort of ignition relay or computer issue? I do not have any lights on of any sort. I do want to mention before it started acting up the auto door locks would jump up and down erratically and my key phoebe will not work now.
View 8 Replies
I need to diagnose a heat problem. I have a 2001 F150 XL. 4.2L Manual controls. The a/c blows nice and cold, but when you put the heat on its not really hot, blows warm air. I changed the blend door actuator,it got a little warmer. Now that winter is around the corner need to figure it out and fix it. The thermostat, water pump, and coolant flushed before I bought it. Could it be the blend door itself, or is there another actuator I'm missing.
View 14 Replies
2000 supercab 4x4 166k miles. Starts right up in morning no probs. Drive to work shut it off and turn key it does NOTHING. Gauges light up, etc but wil not crank. Let it sit all day and it will fire right up. Battery, starter solenoid? Looking for place to start. Won't crank in neutral either.
View 2 Replies
I have a 1997 dodge ram 1500 4x4 with the 318ci engine. 140,000 miles. Fall 2009 I replaced the CAT (old one had broken loose and was rattling around inside) and both o2 sensors. A few months later, when I'd start the truck cold it would idle fine then as it warmed at idle it would run rough almost quit then idle up and run fine all by itself. When started warm it would idle fine then hesitate while acclerating a few times then run fine. No check engine light. Now, about 10 months later check engine light is on (P0138 o2 circuit high voltage bank 1 sensor 2). I have put about 5,000 miles on the new CAT. I checked the wires and connections for damage and found none. Also, new cap,rotor,plugs and wires.
View 3 Replies
I have a 2002 F-150 4.2L that is hard to start when warm. Cold starts are no problem, except in the below 0 F stretch last winter. Also when it is a hot start it is not an issue. Only when it has sat for a few hours does it have an issue. The following is the list of things that have been done.
- New Plugs,
- New Plug Wires,
- New Coil Pack,
- New Fuel Filter,
- Clean Throttle Body,
- Clean Mass Air Sensor,
- Clean Idle Bypass,
- Replace EGR Vacuum Control Switch,
- Manifold Leak Repair (Ford Dealer),
- Throttle Body Stop Adjusted for more idle speed,
- Check fuel pressure (40 psi key on, drops to 35 psi static).
View 1 Replies
I have a Tymar intake, magnaflow exhaust, a DP Tuner and I have Rosewood Diesel injectors.
I had a bad oil leak recently and it seemed to be coming from the turbo area so I changed all the o rings back there and deleted the EBPV system (I cut out the butterfly and welded the holes shut, cut the part of the pedestal that held the actuator because it looked like it was leaking and welded the oil holes in the pedestal that fed it. I left the actual EBPV sender in the pedestal and kept it connected to the harness)
After all that was done I checked the oil and it was low but still on the dipstick so I drove it to the local parts place to get some more oil, about 2 miles, because I wanted to check for leaks. It was not happy, ICP low code came up it was sputtering and jerking when stopped at a light. I got to the store and parked it, it took about 3 litres of oil and seemed to run pretty good after that.
But on the way home I noticed a bunch of white smoke, I figured maybe an injector was stuck. I started it a little later and no white smoke in the driveway so I thought maybe it had gotten lubed enough and had sorted itself out. That was a few days ago.
Today I started it and let it idle in the driveway for about 15 mins and no white smoke, I wanted to get it up to speed a little so I took it to do an errand that was about 10 miles away, lots of lights and a bit of highway. It would run fine while going at speed but as I would slow down for a light the ICP would go down to around 600psi and the white smoke would start, as sitting idling a huge cloud of white smoke would form (yes, I was that guy), once I could take off and get it running a bit harder it would go away again.
I am assuming that I have a stuck injector (or cracked), I have no oil in my degas bottle and it doesn't look like it is fuller than before. Seems like I may have used more fuel than I should have, but pretty hard to tell just from the fuel gauge.
I have tried a buzz test and they all sound the same, tried a Compression Contribution test, no codes from that.
How can I locate a stuck injector? If that's what it is?
View 7 Replies
This problem is on my son's 2000 F-250 5.4. It's into October and my son tells me he has no heat coming out of his vents. I figure it has to be the control valve that should be in the heater hose lines. Could be jammed closed or a vacuum line has come off the pot that controls the open close cycle. We open the hood and nowhere can we see a coolant control flow valve. It is so tight and dark under all that mess of wires, intake, air conditioner lines and whatever.
Just where should we be looking for the valve. Also it could be the vacuum line is unplugged on the dash, behind the warm/cool selector. And even there is a possibility that some doofus has removed something. He bought the truck this summer. So to get us on the right path, where we start looking for the flow control valve?
View 3 Replies
I've been working on my truck for months now on and off. I thought i finally had it back, but i have (again) problems with running. it basically only ran for a full day (hauling trip) after getting it back up and running. next day, it died on me on the road.
The new deal right now is that I can make the truck start and it will run, but it has little "hiccups" or misfires that will happen every now and then. Once it gets warm enough, the idling sounds chopped (best way i can explain it). After "chopping" it will then run fine (until the next chop). then it seems that once the truck gets warm it just stalls out. When that happens (shutting off) i can't get it to start right away. i have to wait awhile before it'll start and that lasts only so long.
The truck puffs a tiny bit of white smoke. not constant but more like a "puh - puh - puh" ....I've changed out quite a bit of used up parts now...
Turbo
Injectors & wiring harness
valve seals
IDM
ICP
IPR
CPS
MAP
fuel pump
vacuum pump
glow plug relay
starter relay
All the sensors are OEM. There's fuel in the fuel bowl, and the filter is clean. Plenty of oil in HPOP & oil level in crankcase is good. Have plenty of fuel.
Air filter is clean and fine. No codes. No lights.
2001 f350 7.3 320k on it.
View 14 Replies
