Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: Choking Out When The Engine Gets Warm
Sep 14, 2015
I have a 1999 Ford F-150 with 149,000 miles on it and when the engine gets warm it seems to flood its self out. I was told to change fuel filter, no change, I was told maybe the catalytic converters maybe plugged but then was told that wasn't the case either. Another mechanic mentioned some sort of ignition relay or computer issue? I do not have any lights on of any sort. I do want to mention before it started acting up the auto door locks would jump up and down erratically and my key phoebe will not work now.
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My 1997 ford explorer has this problem that when you start the engine it runs fine then it's makes a choking sound in the throttle body area I have a video of it on YouTube here's the link :
1997 Ford Explorer Engine Trouble !!! - YouTube....
And the truck doesn't give any ob11 codes.....
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I need to diagnose a heat problem. I have a 2001 F150 XL. 4.2L Manual controls. The a/c blows nice and cold, but when you put the heat on its not really hot, blows warm air. I changed the blend door actuator,it got a little warmer. Now that winter is around the corner need to figure it out and fix it. The thermostat, water pump, and coolant flushed before I bought it. Could it be the blend door itself, or is there another actuator I'm missing.
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1999 F-150 5.4L. I just removed the clutch fan and installed two electric fans about two weeks ago. The same evening, I took a short drive and noticed the idle was way higher than it normally is. Its idling about 800 to 900 RPM. Now, the weird part.....Startup is normal, as in the idle jumps up for the warmup, then drops to the normal 600 to 700 range. after a short drive, the idle is high and noticeable at a stop.
Sometimes, if I let the truck idle, after about 10 mins or so the idle will slowly start creeping up a little at a time till it hits about 900 or so and will level off. I have tried the IAC, I have tried disconnecting the battery and letting the PCM reboot, I have checked ALL my vacuum lines, I have checked my TPS sensor and voltages, checked my MAF sensor and voltages, fuel pressures, everything I could think of...
I hooked up my scanner (Auto X-Ray 6000) and checked all my running data, nothing really sticks out to me as outta whack. No codes set..
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2000 supercab 4x4 166k miles. Starts right up in morning no probs. Drive to work shut it off and turn key it does NOTHING. Gauges light up, etc but wil not crank. Let it sit all day and it will fire right up. Battery, starter solenoid? Looking for place to start. Won't crank in neutral either.
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I have a 2002 F-150 4.2L that is hard to start when warm. Cold starts are no problem, except in the below 0 F stretch last winter. Also when it is a hot start it is not an issue. Only when it has sat for a few hours does it have an issue. The following is the list of things that have been done.
- New Plugs,
- New Plug Wires,
- New Coil Pack,
- New Fuel Filter,
- Clean Throttle Body,
- Clean Mass Air Sensor,
- Clean Idle Bypass,
- Replace EGR Vacuum Control Switch,
- Manifold Leak Repair (Ford Dealer),
- Throttle Body Stop Adjusted for more idle speed,
- Check fuel pressure (40 psi key on, drops to 35 psi static).
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Alright so I have an 03 5.4 with 144000 miles. once it warms up to temperature it has a miss and low end power is low and no fuel mileage gets 12 to 13 if I'm lucky. From idle to 3000 rpm its doggy get it over 3000 rpm it runs great. All new plugs and coil packs. What it could be. When the motor is cold it runs great has most its power.
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This problem is on my son's 2000 F-250 5.4. It's into October and my son tells me he has no heat coming out of his vents. I figure it has to be the control valve that should be in the heater hose lines. Could be jammed closed or a vacuum line has come off the pot that controls the open close cycle. We open the hood and nowhere can we see a coolant control flow valve. It is so tight and dark under all that mess of wires, intake, air conditioner lines and whatever.
Just where should we be looking for the valve. Also it could be the vacuum line is unplugged on the dash, behind the warm/cool selector. And even there is a possibility that some doofus has removed something. He bought the truck this summer. So to get us on the right path, where we start looking for the flow control valve?
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1997 F150... What part of the control system tells the compressor to turn on and off? After not having air conditioning for a year or more I replaced the broken blend door.
When the a/c is turned on and the temp control switch is turned to cold, I get cold air. When I turn the temp control switch to warm, the air coming out of the vents is very warm. However when I do this I noticed that the compressor is still engaged. I think that at this point the compressor should disengage.
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We got our first taste of fall weather in Houston this weekend, and with it I've discovered a new problem with my truck. After the engine was up to temp, I noticed that the heater would blow cold air any time I sat at idle. If you rev up the rpm's to 1500-2000, you can feel the air start to get warm again. I'm guessing this means my heater core needs to be backflushed.
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I have a 2003 Honda Civic EX that is choking and/or almost stalling out when I shift usually from 1st to 2nd gear, but also sometimes from 2nd to 3rd. It usually happens after I've driven it for about 20 minutes upon coming to a stop (intersection/stop sign). When I finally go, I push on the accelerator but it feels like no gas is being pumped through with a loss of power. I repeatedly push on the accelerator until it finally kicks over and power is restored. My check engine light is on and I've had the diagnostics read from local parts stores and mechanics and no one can narrow it down. My mechanic said that it sounds like the valves were sticking but can't narrow it down to one thing without ripping apart the engine and going in deep, which would be expensive, but also not as expensive as a dealership.
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1994 Subaru Legacy, 2.2 L 4-cylinder, front wheel drive, automatic transmission... Trouble started, when I let the gas tank get very low, drove the car 3 less than one mile to the gas station from a cold start and filled the tank to full. As I pulled out of the station onto the road the car died as I hit the gas. When I tried to start it again it died right away. Got the car into a safe spot and couldn't get it to start until I primed the fuel pump about a dozen times.
Managed to get the car home. After this, the car drove around town for a few days without any issues. Thinking back it may have been a little hesitant on the gas, but didn't start stalling again for a few days. This time it would stall while idling as well as when accelerating in drive. The next serious episode occurred on the highway. The engine was choking as I drove over 60mph.
I pulled off into a rest area and the car died as I parked. Rather than try to start it again I just called a tow truck and called it a day. Now, even after the replaced parts, it will start just fine and idle ok until I hit the gas pedal then it will idle a much lower rpm and sputter. If I shift into drive and hit the gas it dies immediately. If I let it idle long enough it usually dies eventually.
Replaced the fuel filter. No change. Replaced the fuel pump. No change. Replaced the ignition coil. No change. Spark plugs and cables replaced less than a year ago. I have driven this car from Eugene, Oregon to Denver, Colorado and back about three times in the last 6 months, so the long distances could be a factor. Other than that I drive it occasionally (not every day) for short distances in town.
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This morning on my drive to work my car would choke whenever I hit 3000 rpm right when the car is sucking the most air from my intake, and especially on 3rd gear and up. After being on the road for quite some time my check engine light came on blinking but went away right after I stop pushing the car to 3000 rpm to switch gears.
The car is on APR Stage 1 with AEM Filter + Nuespeed Intake + BSH Inlet Pipe.
Recently added was a VW Diverter Valve D Version due to an oil leaking from my Old Diverter Valvue G version.
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2003 with hot no start issues. It starts fine in the morning however will not start again after the engine gets warm, after an hour or so of cooling off it will eventually go. Not sure if I should start with.... Readings below ....
FICM L 13.5v
FICM M 48v koeo and 47 running
IPR 14.7% koeo
IPR 74.6% cranking (no start while hot)
IPR 40% (after cold start while running
ICP 737psi cold start
ICP 1600psi engine running 2k rpm
ICP 360 hot while cranking
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I noticed this evening that my low pressure oil pressure was much higher than normal. I have a LPOP gauge that typically reads 12 psi or so at idle This evening I was seeing 75psi with a warm engine. Every little acceleration pegged the gauge over 100psi.
The factory non-functioning gauge says that everything is normal.
I am about due for an oil change. I was thinking that I would change the oil and filter as soon as possible and temporarily plumb in my mechanical gauge to see if the high pressure reading is real or not. I replaced the stock LPOP about 3 years ago with a melling and everything has been golden up until now.
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I have a may 2003 6.0l f350 4x4 ,autoenginuity scanner, recently bought the truck starts fine and idles well then when engine get warm it starts to smoke unburnt fuel (white) volume of fuel desired on scanner goes from about 14 mm~3 to 27mm~3 and starts to run rough if you depress the acellerator the motor smooths out and the fuel desired goes down. No coolant smell. egr cooler removed ,oil cooler replaced, exhaust back pressure sensor and tube cleaned .ebp sensor koeo 14.2, eo 17 but jumped to 54.0 when map was at 17, bp 31.20 .... The AE is new to me Also found a superchip tuner under the back seat ...
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I can't seem to get the engine temp to middle range on the marker, but yet my heater blows "to me" hot air. Even while sitting in idle for extended amounts of time I cannot get it to "operating" temperature. I would think if my thermostat was stuck open my heater would blow either cold or slightly warm air. I have the 5.4L engine with knn air filter and no cats.
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I have just finished changing head gasket. I started up the engine works fine. But I hear a little clik sound form the converter. I put it in gear, but it can't move either forward or backward. It ran 2-3 liters of oil out of the converter when I took the engine out. I have filled new oil in the gearbox but not in the converter, dosnt it came form the gearbox into the converter?Is there air in the converter or what's wrong?
it is a F150 4x4 4.6 1997 automatic.
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Acquired a 1997 Subaru Legacy a few weeks ago. Drive it for a prolonged time in the heat, at speed, and you can smell warm coolant from the engine compartment. And the temperature gauge hovers in the middle of the dial, no matter what.
My wife explained the smell away by guessing she'd spilled coolant when she topped it up. But it's been weeks since she did that. Also - this sucker drinks coolant. I'm guessing every 2-3 days I'm adding another gallon.
It occurs to me that ... maybe .. a leak on top of a pipe so the coolant doesn't drip out, but the loss of pressure (from the hole) causes the fluid to boil and flash out? This might explain the 'higher than I'd like to see' operating temperature.
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I have a 03 vw jetta gli and whenever the engine is warm when it was recently on, takes a while to start like 3-5 second but normal when it is a cold start..
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I have a '03 Civic DX 5 speed. It has 128000 miles on it. I've notice now that it is getting colder, my engine ticks when it is warm - I can hear it at idle and low rpms, but not at higher rpms. It sounds perfect when it's cold, but once it is warm, it has a "tic-a-tic-a-tic-a-tica..." sound. Tom and Ray talked about a Dodge Dakota that made the same sound when the engine was cold (about 8 episodes ago). So what does it mean if it only does it when warm?
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