I bought truck with marksman remote starter and it worked great. until... I lost the truck keys. ford dealership reprogrammed key code and cut new keys.
Truck now thinks that it is being stolen every time i try to use remote start. nothing major, theft light on dashboard idiot-light hud flashes.
The question: How the heck to i bypass the anti-theft module? I know that there is equipment out there to do it?
...Just bought a Code CA-6551 for a great price. What bypass module would I need for my 01 F150 to do the remote start?
View 1 RepliesI have a 2011 camry and was wondering if I need a bypass module to install an alarm and remote start. Its an Autopage C3 rs-1100...
View 5 RepliesMy commute into the office was more difficult than usual because of the fumes pouring out of the vents. I have a 1997 F-150 5.4 V8. should I remove both in and out hoses from the firewall and connect them with a plastic fitting not to risk breaking the aluminum fittings on the motor?(There is an advanced a mile away) OR is it possible for me to remove the in hose from the firewall and remove the out hose from the motor, and run the in hose directly into the motor. Are the fittings the same and can I do that with limited time and tools?
View 8 RepliesI have a 2003 f150. I had to bypass the heater core and now my A/C isn't working. The A/C compressor don't even come ON.
View 5 RepliesI just picked up an 02 Supercrew. It came with a “Ford” remote starter. I imagine it was a dealer install for the previous owner. Anyways when I try to use the remote starter, it will crank the engine over but not fire. If I manually start the truck it fires up immediately. How come the remote start wont fire?
View 7 RepliesI added a remote start to my 2001 F150 XL. The remote starter says to use the negitive wire for the parking lights to flash, the form I got to wire it up says use the brown (positive) wire for the lights, its spliced into the brown & they don't work. Another question I had the door panel off, noticed that there is a harness going to the lock, is that for the dome light and door ajar light?
Does it have power wires in that harness for power door locks even though it has no lock switches? Last question, I have to hook up the tach wire for the remoter start. The blue and green wire at the tach is the wire they say to use for the tach signal, does it stay the same color into the pcm from under the hood than out the pcm under the dash or does it change colors under the dash at the pcm?
97 F150 4.6 Vin 6, 5-Speed Trans, 200,000mi, Rebuilt recently. I was on my way to get my truck smogged, but she threw a code, P0171. I read somewhere to clean the throttle body elbow, which I did (needed to do it anyway). After I had everything put back together, I start her, and it's rough and immediately dies. If I keep the RPM's at about 1.5k for a minute, then let off, the truck will run fine for about 30-45 seconds, then die again. I just replaced my IAC and the problem persists.
View 8 RepliesI have a 2001 F150 XLT Supercab,4.2lt, automatic, 2WD.
I was able to start it about a month or so ago but it was really hard to start. I had to use starting fluid to get it started, and it was still tough to get it to start, but once started and warmed up it ran fine.
Now I tried to start it again and it kicks over and wont start. I tried the same with the starting fluid and it almost starts and dies. I think I used a little too much starting fluid because after a while of trying and spraying starting fluid, I got a hard backfire that sounded like a shotgun that was strong enough to pop off the MAF Sensor and throw it about 10 feet. I nearly crapped my pants! It looks clean and undamaged but I hope I didn't damage the MAF Sensor when if hit the ground.
The truck sounds like its starving for fuel, so I'm not sure if the fuel pump relay is going or has gone bad, or if its the fuel pump. How to check these items without making it a huge project to diagnose?
Once I can get it to start easily, I have a couple of questions about the trouble code that keeps coming back P0174. That was the original problem with it before the starting problem.The diagnostic says that it is lean in bank 2 but a mechanic friend of mine said something about a vacuum leak.
I have a 1997 f-150, V-6 absolutely base model, a shade under 80,000 miles. I'm the second owner, and the truck was previously garaged most of the time but now sits out in the driveway. The truck has developed an issue where it will be increasingly hard to start (crank crank crank, intermittent cough) after it sits out in hot weather, which is a problem here in Southern California. When the problem is really bad, it can take all day to get it started (try, wait a bit, try again, etc.). When it does finally catch, it sometimes backfires, idles rough for a few seconds then runs like a champ. I can turn it off and restart it immediately, I can let it sit for an hour or three and restart it, but if it sits out in hot weather it gets increasingly hard to start.
I've scoured various forums, and I've tried every solution I can find. Cycling the key to get fuel in the rail, opening the hood to cool off the engine cavity, trying to start it before it gets hot outside, etc. The truck *is* throwing code p0443, and scouring other forums I think that's either the evap canister purge valve, which my last mechanic replaced, or possibly the charcoal canister, which has not been replaced, but I don't know if that could be contributing (the truck was throwing that code before the hard start developed).
I have an intermittent security system issue. I sometimes get a dotted line in odometer and rapidly flashing theft light.
Crank no start. After a time, the theft light flashes a code of 1 then 4. Research gives me the result that PCM did not power up.
Have pulled gauges. Fixed known cold solder joint issue. Checked all connectors and reinstalled. Truck starts fine about 7/10 tries.
I have replaced battery terminals. Removed cleaned and replaced all firewall grounds. Checked harness connection blocks and PCM connector. Made sure all under hood fuses and relays working.
Currently sitting in a parking lot waiting for it to decide to start again. Only one chipped key. Where to look next? 1999 F150 xlt 6 cylinder.
My 4.2L died all of a sudden, it cranks but won't start. Checked the harness side to coil packs, pos. signal but no neg. Tried a code reader keeps coming back link error. Does this mean PCM is fried?
View 4 RepliesI just bought a 2010 f150 and it came with the single button remote start. I've been reading lots of posts about remote start but none with my issue. Mine when you push the button the horn beeps, ignition comes on, the seat slides forward, then the horn beeps just one time again, and it just sits there with the radio playing and not running. Everyone else is getting a 3 beep error code and I'm getting just the one beep.
View 10 Replies2015 with 35,200K on the OD. All stock! Hasn't been modded in any way.
I've been throwing a P04DB ,only, code off and on for awhile now. And now, it's constant. I know there is a couple of other codes that can go along with this but I'm not getting them.
I've somewhat started tracking when the code would return after clearing it. In the last 2 days, I've cycled the engine on and off with the key only and no code.
It appears, that the only time the P04DB code sets is when I use the remote start. I'm still testing this theory but so far that's what seems to be happening.
I'm wondering if there is a slight voltage change when using the remote start that is causing this issue? I've read where this issue is not only a 6.7 issue or even just limited to Ford.
The other thing that really sucks about this issue is if the sensor is bad you just can't get a new sensor, you have to buy the whole crank case vent filter housing too. Brilliant I say, just brilliant.
I had the battery unhooked for an extended period of time while replacing the starter. My father owns a 1997 F250 heavy duty. Well he was parked beside me when I was putting everything back together. He goes to lock his doors and ended up locking mine and his. After that my remote won't work at all, but his does. What happened? Howdo I fix it? I tried to unhook the battery for 3 hrs and plug it back in. Still nothing.
View 2 RepliesI'm putting in a remote starter keyless entry in my 2000 f150 I have all the wires figured out except for the remote start part. Where the wires listed in the photo go? I do have the module required.....
View 3 RepliesHow to fix the HCAC bypass valve P1436 code?
US TSB EG015-02
M.I.L. "ON" P1436-HCAC Bypass Valve Improvement, 2001-2002 Prius.
(Road salt may cause issues with valve. possible fix is to replace the Front Exhaust Pipe Assembly if any shaft binding is evident.)
If your truck came with the FOB to open the doors remote, but not the keypad on the door, you can add one. Originally the keypad was hard wired and was an expensive option. Several years later the newer keypads were RF signal just like the FOB. If you have or had FOB, then you have the keyless module on the truck (mounted to firewall infront of the emergency brake).. All you have to do is buy the newer style RF keypad, stick it to the door, and program like the FOB. I just did this on a 2002 F150.
View 5 RepliesI've read what little information I can find about making a glow plug bypass, but everything so far applies to trucks with glow plug relays. Since mine is an Excursion I have a GPCM instead of a relay. How I might accomplish this?
View 3 RepliesI've been looking for a remote start system to install on my truck it has no remotes of any kind now. I've been googling most of the day and i can't seem to find anything except something that hooks to a edge tuner of some kind.
View 6 RepliesIPR CF2 Byasss High Flow Coolant Filter Ford 6.0
Made for the 6.0, the biggest problem on the 7.3 might be finding real estate for the filter assembly.
One review refers to using it on a 7.3.