Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: Oil In Radiator?
Aug 19, 2012
Just like the title says oil In my rad! Anyway here's what I've seen....I noticed that I've been having to put oil in my truck more often than I need to. I thought maybe I was leaking somewhere but I wasn't. So then I thought I was burning it but no smoke. So then I was reading on this forum and someone mentioned oil in the rad. So I checked and it was pretty black in color so I figure that's what the problem is. My question is would it be a head gasket or intake? I also read a quote from Moto Mel on here that it could be some kind of adapter that is located on the lower left side of the motor that has o rings that can go bad and cause this?The milage on my truck is 145000 and running great (other than this). No overheating or anything.
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Is it difficult to replace the lower radiator hose on a 5.4L? I'm mainly thinking about access to the connection at the water pump.
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I went to unscrew the radiator drain plug but the head broke right off leaving the rest of it inside.
I drilled out a little bit of it so I could drain the coolant and bough a replacement plug but there are still pieces stuck inside and I cant get them out.
Should I just drill out the remaining pieces or is there a better way to get them out?
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So about 2 yes ago I had a cracked intake manifold and had it replaced..shortly after had low egr flow codes that had me replace every sensor involved on top and three that ford found for me. And fixed...my 01 f150 5.4 super crew has been my best friend last 165k of its 246. So it has a small leak in radiator. Didn't think that would do anything for a bit. Well after almost overheating a few times I pulled up to a job and water was pouring out the top back passenger side....blah blah blah saving 1400 this time I pulled everything to the head. Took off intake put back together torqued to 20lbs.
Still mix fires at low idle and low rpms.gets worse longer I sit at light have redone plugs switched coil pack at the misfire location..still missing. the round black sensor before the egr out of the intake has good vac in but limited to egr. Don't think this is right...has lean codes both banks....but I also had a PVC not in and the exhaust outflow sensor had a hose knocked off again...misfiring...checking hoses nothing obvious... Perhaps the spare coil is no good now....keep one two handy for wet locations... Did I not do intake right...and I did use rtv
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I have a 2000 F150 with 5.4 L motor. The last two trips I have had the top radiator hose come off while under heavy load (pulling a long hill) after 5 hours of driving. So far I have flushed the radiator, checked the thermostat, and refilled with G05 Gold and distilled water 60/40 ratio. I do not hear any gurgling in the heater core. Heater seems to work great.
The stock temp gauge shows it right in the middle range between Hot and cold, right before it blows the hose off. I have replaced top and bottom hoses and put new stainless steel clamps at all end except the top, where I am using the OEM clamp that came with the truck. I thought about replacing the top clamp as well but did not want to blow out my radiator, if in fact it is developing high pressure.
Do these clamps get weak with time? Should I use a vacuum attachment on the fill/overflow tank to remove all air before refilling?
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So the story goes like this, my teacher was trying to scrap a truck that he had sitting on his farm so i got it. I've been using it for a DD for the past year and a half and not I'm starting to do rust repair starting with rocker panels. But, what i was really wondering is how involved would it be to replace the radiator core support? Main reason being last time i was under the hood replacing the pass side valve cover gasket i hit it and knocked a hole right through it so yeah I'm thinking is about time to replace it.
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this winter i have found that my truck's heater core isn't flowing, meaning i have hot on the upper hose and the lower is luke warm and there is no heat while running down the road. I have changed the t-stat and the heater core and radiator are new as of four years ago. last year i could roast a chicken with the heat. i also have no pressure in the radiator hose at all, engine runs at normal temp, no over heat situation and i don't smell any loss of antifreeze.
1999 f-150 4.6 150k
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I just bought a used 2000 Ford F150 with the 4.6L V8 engine and I have a question about radiator fluid.
In the owner's manual it says that if the radiator fluid is green is should be changed every 30k miles, but if it is orange color it is only changed at 150k miles. I look at the radiator fluid and from outside the plastic case it is in it has a dark'ish orange/red look. When I shine a flashlight down the hole where you would add more fluid it looks orange/red, but also has a green tint when the flashlight shines directly onto the fluid.
How do I know which kind I have forsure? The truck was bought at a Ford dealer, but I never thought to look at it while I was there.=
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Went to start my truck to leave work yesterday and blew the coil on #2. It's happened before and I can fix that. The other weird thing that happened was that the radiator leaked out some antifreeze. Not a lot, but a good 2 foot puddle. The reserve was still full and it leaked from the passenger side at the bottom (below the upper hose). Upper and lower hose show no sign of leakage. I suppose the drain is on the lower end of the passenger side of the radiator and it leaked from there. Would the compression from the engine cause that to happen? Or is it something more, dare I say, like the head gasket blew?
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I have an 03 f150 supercrew that had a 4.6L. I am installing a 3.9 Cummins diesel. I will have a separately mounted transmission cooler. I'm using the stock radiator as these engines run cool. It has a transmission cooler built into it. If i just leave the fitting loose, will it cause me any problems. It is a plastic can on each end and i suppose it to have contact with the radiator passages.
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I have a 2002 F150 which has a small leak somewhere in the radiator system. I am looking to see if recommended using one of the Bar Leaks products for fixing cooling system leaks. I guess it is an aluminum based product the adheres to the inner services of the cooling system and can stop leaks.
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The problem is my new-to-me 97 Ford F150 5.4L SOHC engine, auto transmission, is overheating after driving it for a short while. Seems to be fine at idle. I have read previous posts with the exact same issue, but the consistency seems to be all over the map from burping the system, head gasket, thermostat, and possibly a plugged radiator.
Backstory:200,000+ miles.
Truck sat for 6 months after previous owner broke the shift cable.
Truck was in a front end collision. Frame looks bent underneath the engine.
Previous owner had overheating problem. He said he changed the heater core. Looks like brand new coolant in the system so story probably checks out. Desperately needs an oil change. Very black oil.
Previous owner thought the system needed a burping. So I'm largely assuming the problem started after the heater core change, or he misdiagnosed an overheating problem and thought the heater core could cause it. I have found a radiator cap and thermostat in the truck which seems to indicate he tried many things to fix the overheating and was unsuccessful. Engine looks pretty clean for the miles.
Symptoms/Backyard Tests :
Blows cold air with heat on highest level and on defrost.
Blender door fuse intact.
Doesn't overheat at idle.
Ran the truck for 15 mins with the coolant bottle fill cap off on level ground to try to burp it after draining some coolant and checking the thermostat orientation. Coolant level increased in the bottle. Large air bubbles came out. (Another session before this one, I ran it for 30 minutes with no coolant cap, and eventually coolant overflowed the fill bottle. Normal or no?)
Seems to overheat after the thermostat opens. After doing the 15 minute warm up/burp, I took it for a test drive. I drove it about 20 blocks with the temperature gauge on the dash reading the same as the warmed-up idle temperature. Got to the 20th block and the gauge immediately spiked to overheat with the oil pressure dash light coming on. I could be mistaken as the oil pressure light almost looks exactly like the overheat dash light. But I'm pretty sure the temperature icon was on the right side of the oil can icon and not the left.
After the above drive: Upper rad hose too hot to touch.
After the above drive: Lower rad hose medium warm. Could hold on to it if I felt like it.
After the above drive: Upper part of rad pretty hot. Not Insta-burn but hot. Tempature decreases to warm to cool as you go lower down the rad.
After the above drive: Both heater core hoses going to the cab luke warm.
Coolant looks brand new.
Radiator looks slightly bowed. Probably from the accident? Otherwise looks clean and minimal bent fins.
Drained some coolant and pulled the upper rad hose to see if the thermostat was upside down. Looks installed correctly.
No signs of weep hole leaks from the water pump.
Fan seems solid. Has maybe 1-2mm of play in the bearings.
Something that looked like steam from the muffler at startup, that disappeared after getting closer to a normal range warm engine.
I have driven crap cars for many years and I've never seen a plugged radiator which makes me skeptical of it being that. All the radiators I have changed were because they were eventually leaking from cracks in the radiator.
I would also be interested in doing an informal poll if you have read this far and have had this era of F150 that overheated. Have you ever repaired the head gasket? And/or have you ever changed the radiator?
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2002 4.6 SC with towing package... Transmission cooling lines to radiator leaking. Replacing them? How long does it take, can it be done while working on the ground? Any tricks or problems to look out for?
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I have a 97 F-150 and my Radiator fluid has been leaking very bad but hasn't been taking the fluid from overflow tank. Actually the new fluid that I put in the overflow has now turned a rusty color....
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The transmission line running under the radiator has started to leak. I took a piece of rubber trans. hose and buy passed the cooler. How much does the cooler support the trans. temperature. I don't tow with the truck. And for the most part drive it around 14 to 20 miles one way to work. Is this something I need to replace now or after the temperature hits the 80s.
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I blew some hose in my engine and radiator fluid was spraying out of it like crazy. It's on a 1999 f150 4.6 on the passenger side near the rear of the engine but about even with the top of the engine...
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Ok I have a 97 f150 4.6L. My radiator has been bad for a while. With brown rust color. I replaced my radiator, thermostat, new upper and lower hoses. Everything runs great but I have no heat. I flushed everything including the heater core. Core is not leaking into cab, and both heater hoses are cold. What should I do next FYI heat worked great until 5 days ago.
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So today my 97 f150, 2wd 5.4L automatic has started giving me some troubles. The truck has 291k miles on it, i bought it with 260k miles on it. About a week ago the truck overheated due to a busted radiator side tank, it was promptly replaced the next day and i have had no problems with it since, till today. Sometimes when you start it it will stumble alive like its out of gas, give it a sec and it settles down. When you get going, its a little down on power, i know it has 291k miles on it but it pulled hard. Its OK till you get to about 35-40, when it just stops accelerating. I had my foot to the floor and it barely went above 40, if you ease into it slowly it will slowly accelerate till about 45, drop down to 40 and then go like normal.
When i changed the radiator i lost about a cup maybe a cup and a half of transmission fluid, i have gotten time to replace it but i didn't think that small amount of fluid would dramatically change performance, the fluid also looked almost new. The only other things i have done to the truck is some brake work and replace the alternator. I have no knowledge of what the previous over did or did not do. It is not throwing any code, and the OD light/button is broken, i think on newer rangers the OD light would would brink indicating transmissions problems, not sure if its the same on these trucks.
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I bought this truck an it ran good then one day it started knocking really bad so i replaced the crank shaft an bearings. Put everything back together started the truck an it ran like crap an i just happened to check the oil an it is milky. All the water in y radiator is now in the motor oil an truck has no power...
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After 150,000 miles, the radiator has developed a small leak. Question- do I have to remove the fan or can I just unbolt the shroud and push it back to slide the radiator out? I don't have that special wrench to spin off the clutch fan. 1997 Explorer 4.0 ....
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I've noticed a spring of coolant shooting out of a connector that I'm assuming is connected to the bottom radiator hose via a smaller hose. Is there a hose that splits off the bottom radiator hose that is smaller. The leak is not coming from the hose, but the connector it's hooked to. Is this a replaceable part? What is it for?
97' Aerostar... 3.0 V6 with AC
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