Ford F-150 (2004-2008) :: All Light On - No Cranking From Engine - Replace Relays?
Jan 24, 2017
In the last 50 starts it has happened twice: When I try to start the truck, all dash lights and power come on but there is no sound or cranking from the engine. If I cycle the key back and forth a half a dozen times it will then crank and start. Next time I will try and listen to hear if the solenoid is clicking.
I've read posts about it being the anti-theft, ignition switch, stater relay, ppm relay, etc....
I could replace the relays to rule them out, but my gut is telling me that's not it? Would there be a code from something like this?
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I have an '04 F-150 4 x 4 Supercrew Lariat w/ the 5.4 V-8. It has 105,832 miles on it. No issues until a week ago. Battery light and "Check Charging System" message appear 30 seconds after cranking the engine. I have replaced the battery (Ford Motorcraft), belt and alternator (Motorcraft 130 Amp). Still getting battery light and error message. I've read some post that indicate it could be a short in the fuse box.
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How to replace the "light switch" on an 08 Prius. The driver side headlight and taillight will come on when you first turn on the lights and but will turn off in just a few seconds. Sometimes they will stay on for a while and/or go off and on. I was told it was the "light switch".
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I have an 04 f250 diesel and i am wondering whatst are the minimum cca's i need to be able start my truck. Both of my batteries are no good anymore and i need to replace them both but not sure on the cca's the truck needs
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I have 2008 LS 460 and replace engine oil warning light comes on every 3,000 miles. I plan on changing oil every 5,000 miles. How can I change warning to coincide? What are thoughts on changing every 7,500 if no pulling or hills? I am using synthetic Royal Purple. Is it worth the cost?
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The car does not come with towing package. Bought and installed 3 relays; 2 under the hood, one in the back. I connected hard wired TOW READY 20137 to the trucks' wiring system, checked voltage, nothing. Checked relays under the hood and and the back by the rear light, I could hear the clicking from them. Do I need to connect under dash brake controller too in order the wiring to active the wiring system ? Why this is happening
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Quick truck stats: 2005 F150, 5.4L, 85,000 miles
The past few weeks my engine has been hesitating on some cranks before it would start. I figured it was due to the cold weather so didn't pay too much attention to it as it was also not throwing the check engine light.
Yesterday it didn't start at all after the several attempts of just cranking over and over. It still didn't seem to trip the check engine light but I pulled my scanner out anyways and it had the code p1237. I cleared it and the truck started right up. It even had no more issues the three times I started the truck after that.
Today, however, she is not starting again and not throwing any codes. Still cranking so I'm sure it's not the started or the battery. I'm going to have my husband pick up some starter fluid on his way home today to see if I can at least get a temporary start since I think it's the fuel pump, or possibly the fuel filter. It is cold again this morning so I'm wondering if the cold is somehow making this issue worse. Either way I'd like to fix it, since being stranded with a truck that doesn't start is not my idea of a way to pass the time.
What else it might be and how I might be able to diagnose it?
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I have a 2005 F-150. Recently, I have heard an alarm like tone for five seconds or so after cranking up. Often, this sounds immediately after cranking up but sometimes, it happens a few minutes after cranking up. There is no light that accompanies it on the instrument panel and the sound stops after sounding for a few seconds and does not recur until the engine is started another time. What this might be?
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2004 F150 Supercrew 4x4 Right now I have a broken roller cup on my rear U-joint. So I bought a new U-joint from the Ford dealer. When I pulled the driveshaft out I couldn't tell how to replace the U-joint. There are no E-clips to remove from the yoke/driveshaft ears. There are solid round "O" shaped clips that looked to be pressed in or something.
I've talked to the Ford dealer as well as a few other local mechanics and they haven't seen this setup before. So I didn't get any assistance there. It seems like my only option is to replace the whole pinion yoke, driveshaft, and U-joint together. Which sucks because this is just a frikkin' U-joint that needs replaced. That's it. I guess what I'm asking is, is there a way to work on this non-serviceable U-joint?
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Tried searching, but I couldn't find any good write-ups on how to replace a front CV axle. The boot on mine is ripped and spraying grease so I figure I should just replace the whole axle while I'm in there. In a previous post, I also found out that replacing the CV axle (joint?) is easier than replacing just the boot.
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156,000 miles, I've been pulling a 21ft bass boat in the summer for years with no issues. Now on hot days (over 78 degrees) it is over heating. Can't use AC and need to slow down to 60 mph in-order to cool her down. Never have flushed the radiator but I'm wondering if getting it flushed is a waste of time and if I should just proceed to replacing the radiator? For a couple of years now I can hear a roaring sound (like a jet engine) on really hot days, when I start out driving. Could this be a cooling fan? Seems like the power is restricted during these times. Really need to increase throttle to get going?
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Alright, I, like alot of people with these trucks have the rust under their fuel doors from what ive seen and heard is the fuel neck filler plastic vibrating and rubbing, wearing throught the paint allowing water and fuel drips in and getting under the paint.
Well i keep touching up my spots but i have to do it twice a year and it just keeps getting worse, so i decided to go a bit further and clean it, touch it up, and protect it. This is a low $ job. Its not perfect but it is definately better than rust and from a couple feet back you can barely notice it, and hopefully this will be the last time i have to touch it up.
[URL] .....
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Just bought a 2007 supercab with the 5.4 in nice shape, but have an intermittent brake light on the dash. (No ABS, just the brake light.) Our mech. diagnosed a bad Brake Fluid Level switch. I can get a new sensor. I'd like to try and replace this myself and save a lot of money if it's not too difficult.
I'm looking for some clear step-by-step directions on doing this, and have a couple of questions:
Do I need to disconnect the battery first?
Do I need to empty the brake fluid reservoir? (Looks like the sensor is in the bottom of the reservoir, if I take it out without draining res, will I have a mess?)
When looking up the sensor online, I also saw the plug/connector for sale, should I replace that as well?
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I have a 2006 F-15 XLT with a bed cover, tailgate cover and separate tailgate cap. The cap has cheap plastic clips that went into the tailgate but have broken off...this is a problem as I have a tonneau cover that is a tight fit. Every time I close the tailgate with the cover on, I have to jam the cap down and hope it is far enough by the time the tailgate closes.
2 Questions:
1) Where can I buy a reasonable replacement?
2) Is there a good solution to just repair? I tried JB Weld, but that did not seem to hold (surprisingly)
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I have a leak between the metal and the plastic of my water crossover.
Do I need to remove the manifold to replace the gaskets for the crossover and if so looking for a good thread showing how.
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My 99 b2500 4 cly shut off on the road this morning and now will not start. She'll turn over just fine but no sputtering or almost-starting. The engine light isn't on when i try to crank it. Any deductive checklist so i can start narrowing down the problem?
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What updates were done to the 3.6 engine for 2008? So far in 100 or so miles I've noticed that the 2008 3.6 is:
Much easier to start. (06/07 requires cranking much longer to start)
idles smoother (06/07 shook a little when sitting at idle)
accelerates smoother
then the 2007.5 3.6 I had, and the 2006 3.6 in my friends Passat.
Both of those did have the OJ update done. The only visual difference is the plastic engine cover. On the 06 and 07 it has a silver colored cover. the 08 has a black cover that is different in shape.
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I have a 2006 f 150 5.4 ... Changed out all spark plugs, Never had a CEL since new. I disconnected the Battery, Removed the PCM (clearance problem)replaced the plugs, (of course broke 1) replaced PCM, hooked up battery. Truck runs smooth as can be. CEL is now on steady. Could this have happened because of PCM removal? Heard about flashing PCM? Or should i bring it to Auto zone for code reading?
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My dad is looking at a 2005 F150 2wd with the 4.6L V8 that a friend of his has. Its a 2wd XL, but has the cloth seats, the interior and body are excellent conditions. Its high mileage however, (210K), but the engine sounds good, but it has a miss and the check engine light is on. He took it about 6 months ago and had the oil changed, new belts and spark plugs, drove it very little and its been setting for sale for about 3 months.
When dad started it this evening, the engine was missing and the CEL light is on. His friend suggested he drive the truck for as long as he likes, (which he did today and he does like it) but I advised my dad to take it to a mechanic and have it checked out first, maybe even the dealer to have it checked out to be safe.... which he did today. He took it to a local Ford dealer today to get them to check it out they stated that it was a coil pack that is bad on the #2 cylinder.
They (dealer) also told him a bunch of other things that was "wrong" with it, but I think a lot of it was lies just to get him to get it fixed there and make money off of him. They said it needed an intake gasket (said it was leaking a little bit), they also said, battery and cables need to be cleaned, tranny service, coolant flush, etc, etc, etc.
Once outside the guy (tech) was bringing the truck out and my dad asked him the about that intake gasket and he acted like as if the dealer makes them act like things are a big deal, or saying they may not always need what they say. He told dad alot of those 4.6L's did that and it was really nothing to be concerned about, but I don't know.
I have a 95 Town Car with the 4.6L and am familiar with these cars, but I guess the 4.6L in these F150s are different beasts. I do know the plastic intakes on the 96+ models were issues.
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I've got a check engine light on but the truck runs fine. I checked the fluid levels everything seemed normal. Any special trick that I could try to reset this check engine light myself? It's got the 4.6 L, Stock no mods, been keeping the regular service intervals at the dealership.
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I have engine light on and the code is PO446. just changed fuel filter on my 2006 5.4L f150. What the code means ?
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