Ford F-150 (2004-2008) :: How To Replace Fuel Door
Sep 6, 2010
Alright, I, like alot of people with these trucks have the rust under their fuel doors from what ive seen and heard is the fuel neck filler plastic vibrating and rubbing, wearing throught the paint allowing water and fuel drips in and getting under the paint.
Well i keep touching up my spots but i have to do it twice a year and it just keeps getting worse, so i decided to go a bit further and clean it, touch it up, and protect it. This is a low $ job. Its not perfect but it is definately better than rust and from a couple feet back you can barely notice it, and hopefully this will be the last time i have to touch it up.
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The passenger side door of my 08 Accent Hatchback got frozen after cold icy rainy night. I forced it open after few try, and found the rubber seal underneath the door was ripped off (ice in it). I put it back in, but after turn the engine on, the airbag light is on.
After some google, I think I damaged or disconnected the sensor in the passenger side door panel. How to fix it?
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2004 F150 Supercrew 4x4 Right now I have a broken roller cup on my rear U-joint. So I bought a new U-joint from the Ford dealer. When I pulled the driveshaft out I couldn't tell how to replace the U-joint. There are no E-clips to remove from the yoke/driveshaft ears. There are solid round "O" shaped clips that looked to be pressed in or something.
I've talked to the Ford dealer as well as a few other local mechanics and they haven't seen this setup before. So I didn't get any assistance there. It seems like my only option is to replace the whole pinion yoke, driveshaft, and U-joint together. Which sucks because this is just a frikkin' U-joint that needs replaced. That's it. I guess what I'm asking is, is there a way to work on this non-serviceable U-joint?
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Tried searching, but I couldn't find any good write-ups on how to replace a front CV axle. The boot on mine is ripped and spraying grease so I figure I should just replace the whole axle while I'm in there. In a previous post, I also found out that replacing the CV axle (joint?) is easier than replacing just the boot.
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156,000 miles, I've been pulling a 21ft bass boat in the summer for years with no issues. Now on hot days (over 78 degrees) it is over heating. Can't use AC and need to slow down to 60 mph in-order to cool her down. Never have flushed the radiator but I'm wondering if getting it flushed is a waste of time and if I should just proceed to replacing the radiator? For a couple of years now I can hear a roaring sound (like a jet engine) on really hot days, when I start out driving. Could this be a cooling fan? Seems like the power is restricted during these times. Really need to increase throttle to get going?
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Driver's side isn't putting out any bass at all. Passenger side isn't sounding good either.
Since I don't know if the speaker is dead, or if the amp channel is dead, I'm going to order just one speaker at first and replace the driver's side. If it starts working I'll either repair the foam on the passenger side (most likely thing wrong with it) or order another speaker. If it doesn't start working, the replacement will go in the passenger door, and I'll consider if it's worth getting the Mark Levinson amp repaired.
I used the Autosound 2000 disc 105 Track 24 to check this. Put that track on repeat, then use the balance/fader controls to target individual channels. Track 25 will test the mid-bass speaker found in the front doors, then Track 26 for the tweeter.
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Just bought a 2007 supercab with the 5.4 in nice shape, but have an intermittent brake light on the dash. (No ABS, just the brake light.) Our mech. diagnosed a bad Brake Fluid Level switch. I can get a new sensor. I'd like to try and replace this myself and save a lot of money if it's not too difficult.
I'm looking for some clear step-by-step directions on doing this, and have a couple of questions:
Do I need to disconnect the battery first?
Do I need to empty the brake fluid reservoir? (Looks like the sensor is in the bottom of the reservoir, if I take it out without draining res, will I have a mess?)
When looking up the sensor online, I also saw the plug/connector for sale, should I replace that as well?
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I have a 2006 F-15 XLT with a bed cover, tailgate cover and separate tailgate cap. The cap has cheap plastic clips that went into the tailgate but have broken off...this is a problem as I have a tonneau cover that is a tight fit. Every time I close the tailgate with the cover on, I have to jam the cap down and hope it is far enough by the time the tailgate closes.
2 Questions:
1) Where can I buy a reasonable replacement?
2) Is there a good solution to just repair? I tried JB Weld, but that did not seem to hold (surprisingly)
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I have a leak between the metal and the plastic of my water crossover.
Do I need to remove the manifold to replace the gaskets for the crossover and if so looking for a good thread showing how.
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In the last 50 starts it has happened twice: When I try to start the truck, all dash lights and power come on but there is no sound or cranking from the engine. If I cycle the key back and forth a half a dozen times it will then crank and start. Next time I will try and listen to hear if the solenoid is clicking.
I've read posts about it being the anti-theft, ignition switch, stater relay, ppm relay, etc....
I could replace the relays to rule them out, but my gut is telling me that's not it? Would there be a code from something like this?
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My 04' FX4 rear door locks hesitate to open with the key fob or the door switch. I can get them to open sometimes but not every time. Why this is happening?
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1990 f150
I have a leak in my rear fuel tank, the front tank has been blocked off and is not used, The leak is at the seam of the two part tank, once removed is there a way to seal this? or should I just replace it?
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I have a 94 F250 5.8 liter with 96K miles. Can I remove the fuel rail and clean or replace the filter that is placed at the top of the fuel injector?
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5.4 L, Engine runs if primed at the intake. Fuel pump can be heard running but no fuel gets to the engine. Truck is mint and being sold real cheap due to this issue.
Fuel Pump? Filter? Both? I haven't seen the truck, a friend is considering buying it and rolling the dice it is a quick fix. Fuel is in the tank .....
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I have a 2004 F150 XLT 5.4 L 79,000 miles. Yesterday i was driving home turned a corner and the low fuel light came on and the fuel gauge is well below empty. I had approx 1/2 tank of fuel when it happened. I have since filled tank all the way but the gauge will not move and low fuel light stays on. Everything else is working fine! I have never run the truck low enough on fuel to make the dummy light come on.....
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How to replace the "light switch" on an 08 Prius. The driver side headlight and taillight will come on when you first turn on the lights and but will turn off in just a few seconds. Sometimes they will stay on for a while and/or go off and on. I was told it was the "light switch".
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I have a 2008 prius. Usually it gets me around 52-55mpg, I've had it since January. Since a couple of days ago its not giving me anything above 49. I know thats a normal number, but considering the fact that its usually quite a bit higher I'm wondering what the cause of the drop is. Also around the same time, when I pull out of my driveway I notice what appears to be a bit of water leakage. Its under the vehicle in the front center, and it only happens when I start the car for the day and pull out of my driveway (its on an incline).
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On my way to work this morning my truck died it inst getting fuel. I've pushed the fuel reset behind the kick panel there isnt a fuse or relay and i called a dealership about that I don't know I wouldn't think the fuel pump would go out all at once Its a 04 fx4 super cab 5.4....
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Beside the normal tools you will need a mirror, flashlight, very long needlenose pliers, and tin snips. There are 2 screws holding the driver door panel on, one is in the courtesy light at the bottom and the other is inside the switch compartment. You must also twist the light socket out, pop the cover off above the switches, pry the switch pod up at the FRONT and slide forward, and unplug the switches.
Now pull straight up on the panel and remove it after taking the light out at the bottom;
Tape the membrane up out of your way
You will need mirrors like these and very long needlenose.
Remove all the yellow plastic screws holding this aqua connector and it's wires and tuck it into the corner of the door.
Now you have a clear view of the actuator;
Try to pop this yellow plastic clip loose with your fingers and if not drill a hole above the oval hole and use a screwdriver;
Take the 3 screws out at the latch;
Push the plastic screws in holding the black cable and look through the oval hole to locate the green clip holding the rod to the door latch handle.
Cut the oval hole bigger so you can access the next steps;
Rotate the whole unit around until you can pop the green clip loose with a screwdriver by prying or pulling on the small side of the green clip and then locate the rod next to it (not mentioned in other posts), and disconnect it by using your very long needle nose to squeeze one side and a long screwdriver to pry the rod out;
Rotate the entire unit out around the window track, remove the wire harness, unplug the two other harnesses, and insert screwdriver under actuator before sliding it off.
Now you are ready to do the tin foil fix or just replace the actuator.
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How do I disable the chime (2008 F150) that sounds when the key is in the ignition and the door is open? I'd like to keep the chime that sounds when the lights are left on and the door is open. Is it possible to accomplish both objectives?
And, on the off chance that someone from Ford ever looks at these forums: It would sure be nice if you designed the audible warnings with either a timer in the circuit (so it would sound for a few seconds and then stop); or, provide a cancel button for the chime (as is common in commercial and military aircraft).
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2004 4x4 super crew cab. Door locks don't work from switches, touch pad on drivers ext. door or with key fob. I checked the fuses and both the 10 amp and 30amp fuses are good. Where do I go from here. some time ago I had the submerged wiring issue and corroded connections in the bottom of the rear door rail. Could it be the same issue in the front door?
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