Ford F-150 (2004-2008) :: FX4 - Front Wheels Not Pulling
Mar 2, 2014
I just recently bought a used 2004 fx4 with 148k and everything appears to be engaging but front wheels not pulling. I've already replaced the IWE solenoid behind the battery to avail, my question is, when I put it in 4H, light comes comes on, but I don't "feel" the transfer case engage, when I put it in 4L, light on I feel it shift. So could the shift motor not be engaging the front driveshaft even though the lights come on?
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I have a 2005 KR that the 4wd doesn't lock in the front wheels. I haven't seen my exact problem as I have been searching it. When I turn the switch. The dash lights both in high and low 4wd. I hear the transfer motor engage in both hi and low. No ratcheting noises from the wheels. I have replaced the solenoid. And still nothing. Checked fuses And they are OK.
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I have a 2006 XLT w/ the 5.4L engine. Manual transfer case, I'm wondering where to start looking for problems w/ the 4x4...the front wheels don't engage.
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2006 Lariat 4x4 Troubleshooting. My front wheels wont engage when I select 4H or 4L. No dash lights are ever lit.
I read up and understand how the system works and plan to replace the solenoid, transfer case motor and both hub actuators. I swapped out the solenoid and wanted to test that it was functioning properly so I followed the video below:
YouTube........
With the engine running and selector switch at 2WD, I pull the vacuum lines off and can feel vacuum at the supply. I then hook up just the supply line up (to the bottom port) and expect to feel vacuum at the other solenoid port (top port - what I would call the outlet) and cannot feel any vacuum.
This has halted my repair attempts as I am not convinced this is functioning and would pull in the actuators if they were functional. I know it's a small vacuum from a small orifice but I would think I should feel it by hand, no?
The solenoid's electrical connector is plugged in during this as well. I get the same performance with the old solenoid and the new. If I bypass the solenoid I can feel vacuum at the front wheel hubs.
Should I try a third solenoid? Seems unlikely I would have 2 bad ones...No OBDII codes at all. What to try next?
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I have an intermittent grinding noise coming from what sounds like both front wheels, it sounds like metal on metal almost like something metal rubbing the rotor but I just put new pads on and the noise was there before as well with nothing touching the rotors but the pads. The sound will appear out of no-where at low speeds of 35 or below and will continue until I brake and slow down, just before I come to a compete stop the noise will stop with a slight clunk.
I can then drive away with no noise. I am pretty sure it is not brake related except maybe ABS somehow but was also thinking front axle or diff, also have read posts that are bearing related, but both at the same time?. It is the slight clunk before stopping that I can not figure out is related to. It is an 05 f150 xlt 5.4 super cab 4wd with 85k miles
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Every time I put my ford into 4x4 it starts pulling to the left and the front end gets loud going down the road. I am not sure what is wrong?
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Just did a brake job on my IS-F. Everything went smoothly for 50 miles, then as I'm pulling into the driveway I hear a horrible grinding from the front.
Disassembled everything this morning and it looks like the pads are in constant contact with the rotor. Is there a set screw I missed? When I did the brake job, I retracted the pistons slightly with a C-clamp, and did not bleed the brakes. What am I missing?
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I have a 2006 F150 4x4, tow package 5.4, edge tuner, magnanflow muffler.
Towing a 21ft fifth-wheel, trailer weighs 4000 lbs, my trans temp will get up around 250 when pulling a large hill.
What is hot for a transmission?
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I took it to the dealer and they blamed the trailer. I told them that I have pulled two different trailers and it did it with both. Then he said that the trailer was not heavy enough to weigh down the springs. So now I not suppose to tow an empty trailer? Also my father in law has pulled the trailer with his Z71 with no shake and the other belongs to a neighbor with a 98 F150 with no shake. The vibration only starts above 45mph. Any clue as to what could be causing this?
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I have a 07 with the 5.4 engine and it has started to jerk or miss sometimes when I'm pulling my trailer. I'm thinking about changing the plugs, but the dealership is telling me they will break off in the head.
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02 Santa Fe 2.7L AWD
I noticed the other day while out on the property that the rear wheels were not pulling and after a little investigation found that my AWD has now become a FWD. I checked the transmission fluid (not sure if the trans fluid even goes to the transfer case or not) and it was about a quart low but clean and not burnt. Topped the fluids off and still only have the front wheels pulling.
I was going to pull the rear diff plug and see what it looked like in there but I have a feeling it's probably froze in there and the bolt may break taking it off. I may have to wait till I can dedicate a weekend to working on it before I start tearing anything apart. The drive train is flawless and has been minimal effort since we purchased the vehicle new and all the sudden without warning this is happening.
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Problem I'm having, when in overdrive my 04' F150 FX4 5.4 Triton surges while trying to maintain a steady speed during power delivery to the wheels, it causes a shuttering and bucking effect. If I push the button to turn the O/D off, the RPMs rise and problem goes away. During the problem no CEL illuminates and tach stays constant. Fluid condition & level are okay. (not burnt) I'm completely baffled since there is no code in the ECM to point me in the right direction. I do use the truck to occasionally tow my 5k lb boat & trailer. When I began towing I did not know to turn the O/D off and put some miles on towing in overdrive, I know now that was not good for the tranny.
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I drive an 06 Prius and it just started making this squeaking sound from the wheels when I steer. When I make turns you can hear the sound both ways when turning the wheel.
I took it to the dealership for the steering recall but they didn't seem to find anything. Is it just something I can lube up to make it go away or is it something more serious?
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109K and runs great except for when accelerating from start to any speed. The front end acts likes the front wheels are slightly out of balance. Once you stop accelerating all is fine. Tires have plenty of tread and no I haven't rotated them to the rear which I might do?
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We have an 01 Sport Trac as a backup vehicle and it has the 3 position rotary switch on the dash for 4wd.
The transfer case engages and disengages but the front wheels seem to stay engaged with the front differential.
There are no manual hubs and I really don't think it should ALWAYS be engaged like that.
What is the probable issue and ALSO can manual hubs be installed on this truck?
Someone mentioned vacuum engagement? but I didn't see any vacuum hoses near the spindles. Didn't see any wires either other than ABS...
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I got a 97 f150 single cab short bed. My 4x4 shifter is on the floor and moves. I put in 4x4 and the relay clicks and the light comes on. Same as 4low. Front driveshaft spins but front wheels don't. Could there be a leak in the auto locking hubs? Also I want to manual convert the auto hubs. It can be done but how?
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I gotta a roaring noise coming from my right front while turning. Planning on replacing just the wheel bearings tomorrow & not the whole hub assembly(2008 2wd). Is there a thread that lays out the steps and other parts I may need? I've seen alot different stories on the net on how to do it. Everthing from I can press new bearings to I have to do 4x4 hub conversion. Seems to be some confusion.
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Had upper control arm bushings replaced in June. Van has been pulling slightly to the right. Assumed it could be the tire since the front tires were due for replacement. Took it yesterday for two new tires and it still has slight pull to the right.
Here's the rub. The chain shop that did the work has since replaced their alignment machine and the new one does not have the specs for vehicles earlier than 2000. The machine also doesn't have the capability for manual input of the specs.
The manager has found a competitor that has an older machine and has arranged to pay for the alignment which I consider over the top. Evidently this is a trend we can expect to continue because in a city the size of Tampa, he could find only one shop with an alignment machine capable of alignment on an Aerostar.
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Yes, I have photos of this, its possible, I did this twice!
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All I did was take wheel off to tap a stud and I saw the inboard pad shim came off. So I removed the shim and reinstalled everything and the wheel is severely pulling to the right. Yesterday I took the caliper off but did not take off hose, cleaned slide pins and lubricated with anti seize. Still pulling to right bad. Don't hear any squealing or grinding. But pass side wheel is definitely hotter than drivers side. One mechanic said he thinks it would be a bad hose before replacing caliper. What could it be?
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My wife has a 2008 Eddie Bauer 4x4 explorer and when you are backing up or pulling forward with the wheel turned, it feels like the automatic 4wd wants to engage. The Ford dealership mechanic told me this is normal but it does not do it all the time. Is there anything I can look at to try and figure out why this does it sometimes or if this is even supposed to do this at all?
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