I have a 2013 F150 FX4. When the temperature is below 45 and the truck is cold the right high beam wont turn off if used, until the truck engine is warmed up.
View 6 Repliesmy high beam switch works if I hold the switch in the forward position, but it won't stay on when I let go. Is there a fix without having to replace the switch?
View 4 RepliesI have a '12, F150. Is there a fix to keep the fog lights on while on high beam?
View 6 RepliesRecently picked up a 2013 F150 XLT. Reasonably basic truck. Supercab, 2wd, 5.0L, 6 speed, trailer towing package with brake controller......
We are about to head out on a 2 week camping trip. We will be at one site for the entire 2 weeks, and the truck will be driven very little during that time. Problem is that numerous people go in and out of the truck many times per day, x2 weeks. My previous tow vehicle had a means for turning off the interior lights during the daytime, when the doors would be constantly opening and closing.
This truck has interior lights and exterior lights and puddle lights and probably lights I don't even know about that come on and stay on for about 15-20 seconds every time the door opens. It has a funky rocker switch, that I hate, for the dash lights, that doesn't seem to turn off the interior lights. (I forgot the owners manual for the truck at a relatives place a week ago, so I can't check in there). Is there a way to manually keep the lights off during the day to save my battery?
I have a 2013 FX4 (crew cab) and cannot figure out how to turn on the courtesy lights! I can get them to work individually by pressing the edge of the lights, but I believe the dimmer switch to the left of the steering wheel should turn them all on (both front and back).
The manual says to push the dash dimmer switch until they come on, but that does not work! An acquaintance has a 2103 Lariat and he can turn his on using the switch, but no luck for me. I was looking in some of my literature I saved when I bought the truck thinking this feature may have been buried in some package that I did not get. Am I missing something?
Lately my backup camera doesn't turn off when I shift from Reverse to Drive, I have to put the truck in Park and then go to Drive to make it turn off. Is this a software update problem?
View 10 RepliesGot a 2013 F-150 with a start problem after warm. If I let it sit with battery disconnected it will start up. When it will not start it acts like a no spark issue.
View 1 RepliesIs there a way to easily disable the high beam DRL on the GT? Last summer I installed the i30 fog lights with DRL built into them and really have no reason to have the high beam DRL not to mention the partially lit halogen high beam looks like garbage in my opinion. Something a little better looking than a partially lit halogen?
View 7 RepliesJust had my 2010 F150 in for a loud knocking noise when the truck has warmed up in drive and rpm up to about 800. I can't hear the noise when I disconnect the passenger side vtc selonoid. The Tech who worked on it has recommended replacing the motor. His troubleshooting on the ticket says he removed the coil from the number 4 cylinder and the noise he hears goes away. I just can't see that the motor is bad.
View 8 RepliesI have a 2010 F-150 FX4 SC 4x4 5.4l w/ automatic that has 52,000 miles on the clock give or take, unmodified with the only exception of a remote oil filter relocation unit.
I bought the truck with 48,000 on it and did not have this noise, I've had it back to the dealer and their best mechanic went for a ride with me and the noise was duplicated and the mechanic had the deer in the headlight look on his face and said he'd never heard anything like that before. I've searched the net for anything similar like this but have not found anything. The noise rears it's ugly head after the truck is warmed up and it first started around 55mph and went away at 65mph , then re-emerged at 75mph and left again at 82mph.
Tried the usual test things while noise was present first loading and unloading the steering left and right, (wheel bearing) no change. Next I applied the brakes (caliper rubbing) no change. Then I tried shifting to neutral (transmission or carrier bearing) no change. I also tried shifting into and out of 4x4 (transfer case) no change. If I speed up above those speeds or slow down below them, the noise disappears.
Recently... the noise seems to be more consistent and when it's present at 80mph and you let off the throttle, the noise is present all the way down to 55mph then magically goes away. The noise to me sounds like a vacuum leak in a rubber hose or a dry spinning shaft in a bushing, sort of a low hum that sounds like it's coming anywhere from the motor to the transmission area.
My coolant was right below the low mark (it was right above 1k miles ago so it has a slight leak, but haven't checked the bottom core yet, most likely its leaking there?) so overnight it sat and in the morning ive filled it to the high mark and upon starting and warming up the engine the coolant went back to right below low. It doesn't look like its leaking at least not anywhere that fast, is this normal? I gotta check later again while car warmed up etc to check level, but how can the coolant go from being at the high mark to right below the low mark?
Regardless the radiator had previously been repaird by the lexus dealership for leaks, where it should've been replaced. Luckily lexus said they will take a look and replace, but Id rather not go through the dealership.
Golf mk7 2013 ... All of a sudden I lost the highbeam. Highbeam "flash" still works, but not constant high beam.
Bulbs? Are they separate between flash and constant?
Relay?
Stalk?
I have a 2010 f150 super crew, last night when leaving my baseball game I was shocked to find my running lights and my regular beam lights don't work. My high beams work fine but nothing else. I'm pretty sure the lights are an after market light, but I'm not positive since I purchased it used. I looked in manual to check for a fuse issue but I don't see anything regarding the headlights.
View 1 RepliesI have a 2013 Accent and have installing driving lights. I am looking for the correct high beam wire on the driver's side on the headlight assembly. I will then run this to a relay so that when I turn on my highs, the driving lights will come on. I have tried to locate the correct wire but the one wire that is hot when the highs are on, is still hot when the car is off as well as the lights.
View 6 RepliesI'm currently our of town, and will be so for several months. With that said, my wife told me today that when she pushes the lever forward for the high beams that nothing happens, but when she pulls it to the rear (as if she were only flashing the high beams) they work fine.
I figured I could either order parts while i'm away or start doing a lot of homework to find possible issues/fixes.
A few minutes ago on the way to the cabin, I was using the high beam (Auto mode) and when I push the stalk up to make the right turn, the headlights went off for a sec while the dash lights flashed brightly. Almost made me change my underwear!
When I arrived at the cabin, I tested the stalk and it turned out with loose or something like that.
What was causing that action? It never happen with low beams.
My roommate has a 2006 S60 Volvo. One day the passenger turn signal just stopped working. It only works if the high beam is on. The driver side turn signal works fine and so do the emergency flashers. It's not the bulb, not the fuse, not the turn signal lever, and she even took it in the shop and they couldn't figure out the problem without replacing the DIM which would cost a lot.
View 1 RepliesI bought a 2009 Accent last week after my 1987 Camry wagon bit the dust. It has 47000 km and seems to have been very well maintained. The only problem I have noticed is that the high beam indicator light does not come on, although the hi beams do work. I downloaded an owner's manual but am not sure which fuse the indicator light is on; in any case, everything else seems to be working so I expect the bulb is burned out. My problem : I don't know its location on the instrument panel since it has never worked, and I don't know if it is possible to replace it without special tools.
View 2 RepliesMy car is fully stock, with all options available to me (cold weather package not available here). The low-beam triple-LED headlights are aimed way too low compared to all my previous cars, and where they should be. BUT high-beam is aimed properly. So if I adjust the low-beams up, my high-beams might end up lighting up the trees, not the road.
If adjust the headlights up on a fully stock car (not lowered at the front)? Are the high beams still lighting up the road fine? And if you can be specific as the number of turns on the screwdriver, it'd be good too to have an initial adjustment reference.
This morning a dash light informed me a headlight bulb was out. It was my DTR light on the passenger side.
I purchased Sylvania H7 high intensity, installed it and it failed to work properly. Daytime light on only drivers side works.
High Beam on , both lights works.
I checked my manual and it said to check fuse in the 5 slot on the driver side dash/door panel and there actually is no fuse in there. I checked the driver side and there was no fuse there either.
I replaced my driver side bulb last year and it took 5 mins....i am already 4 hours into this!
I drive a 96 Subaru Legacy. What does it mean when one of the high beams is dimmer (less light output) than the low beam? I am using a brand-new bulb. It's not an adjustment issue because I was looking at the bulb when it was outside of the housing and it clearly gets dimmer when you switch to brights. However, they are equally bright when on low-beam, so I don't think its just a crossed wire.
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