Ford F-150 (2009-2014) :: Rust Prevention Treatment?
Aug 8, 2014
Anything recommended for a new truck? I see some threads on cab corners and now bumpers. Wondering if there is a recommended or approved rust treatment? Or even not approved but recommended? Most concern is I live in a snow/salt zone. Last truck rusted from inside to out but I am not disappointed as it took years. Looking for info about coats/ sprays, seals, or anything to the new trucks.
Last truck (2003 F350) had doors rust through and the rear wheel wells from the inside out. This was common on that year. The truck stayed outside 365 days a year and Pennsylvania loves salt on the roads. I wouldn't say it was a rust bucket, but after 12 years the entire underneath was falling apart by touch. Lines rusted through and such. The body panels were waxed a few times a year and held out pretty good, although all the lower parts of doors and corners were rusted through or needed some work. (Doors and bed fixed once already 6 years ago).
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I have a 2010 F-150 Lariat and from the salted snow and slushy roads I have rust stains on the wheels. It is not severe and I dont think the wheels are steel but I would like to remove the rust stains without damaging the wheels.
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I own a 2011 lariat with 500 miles. We have had several days of rain and I am getting alot of rust spots on my driveway always below and inside the right front tire. None in the rear or left front. Dealer said not to worry about it after they looke at the area. They said it is the new metal forming surface rust. There is a skid plate which seems to cover wherever the rust is starting. Should I demand that area be undercoated.
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I have a 2010 F-150 Lariat 4X4 and the front wheels get brake dust and rust staining on them. What is the best wheel cleaner to use to get rid of this? I thought about muratic acid but am afraid of damaging the finish on the wheels.
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I had first two spark plugs break off in my 2005 F150 before stopping. I ran five tanks of injector cleaner through using different brands of cleaner. The next six plugs removed without any issues.
Since then, I replaced 2 plugs after 25000 miles. Used one tank of injector cleaner and had no problem.
I would suggest that anyone planning on changing plugs run some injector cleaner through before the change. The cleaner seems to remove the carbon build-up around the plugs.
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first off this not my truck i am asking about it's my dads, he has a 2002 f150 xlt 4x4 5.4L and he replaces the coil packs all the time is there a way to prevent these from failing so often, and is there an easy way to get to the spark plug on the very back on the passenger side?
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So, after washing my car, I noticed something orange/brown between my rear bumper and rear fender... it's rust. So, what should I do? I know it will only spread but since it's on the rear quaterpanel, it's not easily replaceable unless I cut the metal or sand it down and repaint it. Should I go to the dealer and see what they say?
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I have a 2013 Corolla. I have what looks like a rust stain appearing on the headliner starting over the drivers side sun shade and ends by the rearview mirror this seemed to have just started and I checked for water leaks and there appears to be none as far as I can tell and the liner doesn't get wet.
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I placed my Corvette with a consignment seller this summer. When he had no action, I took the car back but...battery dead. Fully recharged it, car started immediately (first time in 2-months) but then died and will not restart. My ace mechanic has replaced fuel pump, distributer, but no fire. Indication is weak/no signal at he injectors. Could this be residual Theft Prevention system? I had that fail years ago and I pulled the module and the car has done fine for 4-years, until now.
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Started a while back and comes and goes. Only commonality I have found is the truck needs to be warmed up for it to happen and usually after a few hours of driving. The downshift from 5th or 6th into fourth, at times, produces anywhere from a light to violent clunk, feels like a typical tranny slip. It will do it while in cruise and it will do it if I don't have the cruise on. Can't figure out if it is going to be a tune issue or hardware.
It does it only downshifting into 4th from 5th or 6th, no other downshifting is a problem and usually the 6th to 4th produces the worst results. At highway speeds that is usually a shift from around 2Krpm to just over 3K rpm (6th to 4th) if it is from 5th it is about 2500 to 3K. Start from a stop and go WOT and there are no issues.
Having it in Tow/Haul or not makes no difference as far as I can tell. IT can do it on one hill and the next time be just fine or do it 2-3 hills in a row. After this last trip it will do it at 9K feet or at 60 feet elevation, didn't make a difference there either.
Another issue that may be hurting the computer is the truck originally came with the 235 tires, it now has 285's and the rear is only 3.31. I plan on going with 265's and maybe still a gear change to 3.73's in the future. I usually only notice this on long trips, first was a 1500mile hauling an ATV, second was last week during a 2500 mile empty. Although I have had it do it a few times locally. I figure those bigger tires can't be good especially with that high of a rear for the management system.
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What are some pros/cons you have with yours? Both 5.4 supercabs xlt im looking at just cant decide. The 09 has a overall higher rating but its not to much more.
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So I've been planning a trip to Phoenix, AZ and have been trying to figure out whether renting a little car with good gas mileage would be more ideal than driving my truck. So, I started doing the math with local gas prices and the MPG specs for my truck and it completely conflicts with what my instrument panel says how much miles I get from a full tank of gas.
My instrument panel shows I get roughly 350 miles for a full tank of gas (26g tank). This is well below my 15/21...
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Spent 6 1/2 hours yesterday driving back from my job to home in a snow storm. Conditions weren't too bad when it was solid snow floor the sections that had been plowed and had a 50/50 mix of packed snow and bare pavement were a little sketchy. It was my first drive in snow out side of driving around town since buying this truck. I spent most of the drive in 4 auto and in some spots switched to 4 high. When I was looking over the manual, I didn't see anything about maximum speed while in 4 wheel drive. I kept it under 50 the entire time since that was the cut off in my tundra. What is top speed while 4wd is engaged? another related question, Whats the difference between 4 auto and 4 high?
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2012 5.0 getting about 13 mpg other saying they get 17 mpg.....
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Looking at the specs, the screw 5.5' truck's cab height is 76.7" (4x4). For the 6.5' bed, that cab height is 75.6".
This seems to be true for most of the configurations: the shorter, the taller.
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I have a 2010 F150 Lariat 4x4 with the 5.4. It has around 63,000 miles on it. I purchased this truck last winter and recently have noticed a pretty heavy vibration when the AC is running. It only vibrates when I am at a stop. If I apply a little throttle the vibration seems to go away or it goes away if I shift to neutral. The vibration is not violent but it is above average and I would definitely not consider it normal AC vibration.
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I changed my Oil Saturday and noticed an oily wetness on the pan and couple of those "droplets" at the forward edge of the transmission. Its clearly motor oil. Im takin it in next week. Its not too bad to drive it but at only 14000 miles I am surprised.
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What is the code for an FX4 is? Reason I ask is when I go online to Ford dealer inventory listing it shows something like "F150 4X4 SS S/C" but I don't see anything like "FX4."
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I have a 09 s crew with 6 1/2' bed also. Lariat, Max tow package (most of the cool toys) I bought it certified pre-owned in April of 2011.
My vibration is between 35 and 45 mph. Not felt in the steering wheel but all the seats feel it. Set the cruise at 40 mph and it will drive you nuts.Dealer has had it a couple days for this and all they have found was a sticky rear u-joint.
I am at 35,500 miles so I am thinking about just dropping it off and saying keep it till you find the problem.
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I have 2010 FX4 with 76,000 miles, 5.4L with automatic trans and the console shifter. Problem is, lately it doesn't always want to come out of Park when I try to go somewhere. I know that the brake pedal needs to be pushed in order to release the lock on the shifter. If I pump the pedal a couple of times it seems to release the lock eventually. Is there a brake pressure switch that actuates the lock or a switch on the pedal that needs to be made to release the lock? I have tried to search on here for a fix with no luck.
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I know I've complained about oil consumption before on my 12' 5.0 with 42 K. I've kinda come to terms with it and figure not much I can do ? Next oil change I want to try to improve it. Checked it the other day and has used approx 3/4 of quart in 2200 K. I've read other guys post talking about improving consumption by switching brands and trying different viscosity. I'm using the recommended Ford 5/20 synthetic now.
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