Ford F-150 (2009-2014) :: Rust Spots On Driveway Always Below And Inside Right Front Tire
Oct 30, 2011
I own a 2011 lariat with 500 miles. We have had several days of rain and I am getting alot of rust spots on my driveway always below and inside the right front tire. None in the rear or left front. Dealer said not to worry about it after they looke at the area. They said it is the new metal forming surface rust. There is a skid plate which seems to cover wherever the rust is starting. Should I demand that area be undercoated.
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I have a 2010 F-150 Lariat 4X4 and the front wheels get brake dust and rust staining on them. What is the best wheel cleaner to use to get rid of this? I thought about muratic acid but am afraid of damaging the finish on the wheels.
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I have a 2010 f150 supercrew 4x4 with 8.8 3:55 nls rear differential. my driver side tire has a wobble to it it is wearing the inside of the tire. i have replaced the driver axle shaft with new ford oem shaft put in new axle bearings and seals on both sides and have replaced the spyder gears and i still have the wobble I don't know what is going on. the wobble is more pronounced when the tire and rim are bolted to the shaft only without the drum and caliper attached. with caliper and rotor attached i still have the wobble just not as bad however the tire wobbles going down the road more noticeable between 20-45 mph.
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I just noticed 2 rust spots on the back quarter panel in front of the wheel well on my Corolla. Then I looked on the other side, and found rust in the exact same spot. It looks like the rust is near some bolts that are holding on (what looks like) a small plastic mud flap (I'm not really sure if that is the correct technical name). Anyway, is that normal to have rust in the same spot on both sides, or is it defective? This is the only car I've ever purchased new so I was planning on keeping it, like, FOREVER. I think I've taken pretty good care of it so I plan to have it fixed. Just wondering if I should bring it to Toyota.
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Have a rust spot coming thru rear, that I am presuming is due to condensate from rear a/c.
If the rear inside panel where jack is located is removed, it is from the rear inside corner behind the jack.
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Is there any way to repair rust spots so the rust will not return aside from putting new metal on it? I've used Bondo before but it rusts again after a while.
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2014 FX4 F. Got 6000 miles on the truck, front tires are wearing on the outside edge, and also when turning the wheels to the max in either direction I get a loud creaking sound,??
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I have a 2wd 2011 F150 90K with grinding noise coming from the drivers side front tire. Even though it was happening when coasting I thought it might be pads but they are real good. Turning the hub with no tire on it I can hear a little grinding. So I suspect bearings. I want to remove the hub but can't find out how to pull that off.
Where I would expect to find a spindle nut there is an area where it looks like you put a puller in. Can't find any videos or other information on the "Internets". Maybe I'm the first to have bad bearings? Anyway, how to remove the hub?
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Anything recommended for a new truck? I see some threads on cab corners and now bumpers. Wondering if there is a recommended or approved rust treatment? Or even not approved but recommended? Most concern is I live in a snow/salt zone. Last truck rusted from inside to out but I am not disappointed as it took years. Looking for info about coats/ sprays, seals, or anything to the new trucks.
Last truck (2003 F350) had doors rust through and the rear wheel wells from the inside out. This was common on that year. The truck stayed outside 365 days a year and Pennsylvania loves salt on the roads. I wouldn't say it was a rust bucket, but after 12 years the entire underneath was falling apart by touch. Lines rusted through and such. The body panels were waxed a few times a year and held out pretty good, although all the lower parts of doors and corners were rusted through or needed some work. (Doors and bed fixed once already 6 years ago).
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I noticed the A/C was not blowing cold air. I also noticed oil spots on the driveway. I jacked up the car and there is oil coming from Evap drain line. I bought a can of refrigerent with a gauge. The A/C was low. The car took the whole 18 oz and was still low. But blows cold air now. My guess is that the evaporator is leaking.
2010 ES 350 96000 miles
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I detailed the 350 today and noticed on the plate that has the "LEXUS" name on it, on the driver's threshold, that there are rust spots forming. The plate looks to be either brushed chrome or stainless steel. I'm thinking it's chrome and thus the rust. Or, could be a defective piece of stainless steel. I intend to take it in to the dealer for repair or replacement.
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I have a 2010 F-150 Lariat and from the salted snow and slushy roads I have rust stains on the wheels. It is not severe and I dont think the wheels are steel but I would like to remove the rust stains without damaging the wheels.
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I have an 09 screw, 4.6 3v, 3.55, 2wd. Last week, I noticed on the driveway a drip and run stain under the truck. I dismissed it as ac runoff. But it remained and lengthened. I got under it yesterday, and the tranny crossmember has fluid on it. I can't pinpoint where it is coming from. There was no drip either, and the truck was relatively cool. Of course there is no tranny fluid dipstick to check and the tranny pan is intact. It seems to be behind the transmission towards the driveshaft.
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Noticed today in the snow, I was pulling out of the driveway in 2H and the rear tires broke loose, weird sound coming from the front end like the truck was trying to engage the 4 wheel drive but it wouldn't go in. Traction control? Threw it in 4H and the sound went away????
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I bought a new 2014 RX450H in late December of 2013. The car has 5000 mikes on it now and today when cleaning the car, I noticed (hard to believe but true) 3 separate rust spots coming through the finish on the back hatch panel. I know I need to contact the dealer, but should I be screaming for a new body panel or just accept the fact the my new car has to be repainted? This is the 4th RX I have had. Never ever had a problem before.
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Just did a brake job on my IS-F. Everything went smoothly for 50 miles, then as I'm pulling into the driveway I hear a horrible grinding from the front.
Disassembled everything this morning and it looks like the pads are in constant contact with the rotor. Is there a set screw I missed? When I did the brake job, I retracted the pistons slightly with a C-clamp, and did not bleed the brakes. What am I missing?
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I realize that is vague. I realize it could be anything from a wheel bearing to a ball joint, tie rod, control arm/control arm bushing, etc.
Are there any very common front-end steering or suspension issues on 2012 escapes? When tires are inflated to 32-34psi, the car tracks straight, gets great mileage --but almost sounds/feels like it's got a CV or wheel bearing issue on the front right. Every time I hit the brakes while backing out of the driveway I can hear a slight bump or pop. When the car is parked (flat, tires straight) there is slight play left-to-right in the steering wheel.
I'm a German car guy. Have never touched this car. (Wife's car) Right tire is wearing bad on inside. Looking for some direction so I can assess. Car has 88k miles. This will be a DIY fix. Don't have any manuals or anything so just looking for a heads up where to start. Also is Haynes the best way to go? Is there a Bentley? Anything online/CD/DVD?
Play in steering wheel makes me think tie rod (fine because easy/cheap) but such excessive wear on the inside right front makes me think wheel bearing. Could it be both? This is AWD. Is this (like a Subaru) a CV joint where the front spindle passes through a strut base that everything attaches to --so there's an inner and outer wheel bearing?
Does anything up front require a press or can it all be done without a press?
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So I have a 2008 escape 4wd.... I am getting a few flat spots on the inside passenger rear tire... So I figured it was the shocks so I unbolted both and cycled them and they both felt the same... There was dampening you can feel the oil going through the valves or whatever... I have felt completely bad shocks before and it was just a smooth motion when cycling the shocks... Can it still feel like there good but there not? The thing has 85k on it and I'm not sure if they have ever been replaced before..
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I have a 99 F-250 extended cab superduty 4 wd with the 7.3. I also plow during the winter. Recently I've noticed wear on the inside of the left front tire. Brought it to a tire shop and had them check the front end and alignment. They told me that the specs were "within" tolerances" for my truck. I'm stumped as to why the abnormal wear if everything is supposedly good with the alignment.
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I bought a 2002 F250, 2 months ago love the truck drives great for 130000 miles, but the front left steer is making a lot of noise and wearing on the inside edge and like its skipping every couple inches so very noisy thought maybe ball joints but a buddy say tire is out of balance truck does not pull left or right and drives straight...
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Have a raw gas smell inside the cab, what could be causing this. When heater is on and vent at mid section I notice the smell coming in worse.
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