Ford - F150 :: 1999 - Battery Light Is Staying On


Nov 23, 2014

I have a 1999 F-150 4.6L V-8, and the battery light is staying on. Something is draining the battery. I have taken it to Auto Zone, and they tested the battery (brand new), starter, and alternator - all show good. The only error they can register is "C1226 brake light lamp short." What could be causing this? I had to get jump started at a gas station 2 nights ago. I have checked the alternator fuse, and it is ok. Could the wiring be bad somewhere?

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I have a 1999 Ford F150 6 cyl. 4.2, 2 WD with 160,000 miles. Replaced the battery May 2010.

Today battery light came on. Battery gauge did not look like it was discharging. Had battery checked they said it was a little low but OK. Then they continued test and tried to check alternator, test stopped and they said something wrong with alternator most likely.

I took alternator out and had it bench tested. They said it was OK, putting out 98 amp on 95 amp alternator. They said check wires, grounds, harness, connections. Checked connections and wires as much as possible, reinstalled alternator, light still on.

Have not checked fuses yet. Was told to start vehicle, disconnect positive battery cable and if engine continued to run alternator was good, if cut off alternator was bad and to replace. Should I try this and is it true?

What is the part on the fire wall that is between the alternator and the battery that the wire connection runs through? Can it be bench tested/checked?

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Even when I'm driving with the battery warning light on I still get a consistent 13.8 - 14.0 (and I do have the headlights on, the A/C running, radio, etc).

Kind of scratching my head on this issue since it appears the alternator and battery are working correctly.

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I haven't had any issues with the car before now, i have made several long trips, bought it brand new and have 69,000 miles on it. I love my car, but I am scared to find out what it's going to cost to fix it.

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Start out, drive about 20 minutes, get on the Interstate and the battery light comes on 2008 F 150 5.4L 4X4 - 57K miles..... get to my destination, went about 20 miles, turn around to come home, without turning the truck off because of the battery light being on and I notice the charging gauge drifting down to the left, get back on the Interstate and the wipers are slowing down and lights on the dash are dimming.....go around 15 more minutes I lose all lights on dash, wipers, defroster everything, charging gauge is now pegged all the way down to the left and the truck is starting to act up running like crap so I barely make it off the Interstate and call a flatbed, I guess I was about an hour into the trip ..... battery is only about a year old and it started fine that morning and the day before when it was about 12 degrees ...... dealership had the truck, just gave me a call and said they can't find anything ?? ..... never a days problem since I bought it new in late 07' ....

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Ford - Taurus :: 1999 - Brake Warning Light Came On And Staying On

I just replaced the rear calipers on my wife's Taurus wagon (old ones were siexed) and bled the brakes as normal, but now the brake warning light is on and staying on. At first I thought it was the parking break, but it seems to work fine, (Tried setting the parking break while in motion and the car slowed quickly.) Its the first time I have changed the calipers on a car. When bleeding I did so until there were no more bubbles pulling about 8 oz from each side. The reservoir did get low but I don't think it emptied. Is it possible that I went too far and now have air in the master cylinder? How would I correct this?

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Ford Wiring/Electrical :: 1999 F150 - Battery Draining From Full Charge To No Start In 1 To 2 Days

My neighbor's kids truck battery drains from full charge to "no start" in 1-2 days. 1999 Ford F-150 w/ 4.6L engine. He has already.....

1) Replaced the Battery.
2) Replaced the GEM module.
3) Replaced the Turn Signal Relay.
He did all this before I looked at it....

I checked the following....

1) Truck off, doors closed, hood open... Amp meter shows 3.6 amp draw. When 1st hooked up, shows 4.2 amps... after a while drops to 3.6.

2) To isolate the draw, we pulled fuses while checking current draw at battery.

a) Under Dash fuse Panel. (Yes, with door closed) We remove fuse #15 "stop lamp switch, speed control, brake shift interlock, ABS, PCM,GEM, RABS test connector". (Really... couldn't be more stuff?)
b)Under the hood is another fuse box (drivers side). We remove Fuse #103. "Junction Block Battery Feed".

3) Found that if we remove the #15 fuse under the dash with the door opens, all interior lights flash on/off at about 1 second intervals... weird.

4) Again, another weird one... with the fuse #15 removed and door closed, the "ABS" indicator and some other indicators and dash lights are staying partially lit... not fully lit.

5) The only "aftermarket" stuff i can see is a dealer installed trailer brake system. Wiring looks professional and disconnecting it does not remove the amperage drain.

I'm hoping that one of you wizards will give me the "slam dunk"... if this happens, it must be that. Can I be so lucky? And, yes. I have my own '06 F-150 that i absolutely love. 6-cyl., manual trans, stripped down without even power door locks... my kinda technology.

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I thought maybe it's my passenger leaning on the door around the turns. So I inspected all the doors, they latch fine and don't feel like they're open. Last night I was riding by myself, and I realized that it wasn't anyone leaning on the door. When I would slow down, at the same spot. I would hear a click and the lights by the doors would come on, as well as the light on the back of the cab over the bed.

It did it every time the whole way home. It was approx. 16-18 mph when it would click. It was the same spot each time but I couldn't really nail the exact speed and watch for deer. I originally thought I'd just replace the sensors in the doors, but idk if that'll work anymore since it seems to be affected by other factors.

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Problem solved or so I thought...a few days later (approximately 5) the door ajar light came back on and the radio did not shut off. I disconnected the negative cable and sure enough that fixed it...again The problem is that every few days I have to go thru this. I'm not sure if it's related or not, but the CD player has started giving me "error reading disc" on even brand new CD's.

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