Ford - Taurus :: 1999 - Brake Warning Light Came On And Staying On
Mar 28, 2011
I just replaced the rear calipers on my wife's Taurus wagon (old ones were siexed) and bled the brakes as normal, but now the brake warning light is on and staying on. At first I thought it was the parking break, but it seems to work fine, (Tried setting the parking break while in motion and the car slowed quickly.) Its the first time I have changed the calipers on a car. When bleeding I did so until there were no more bubbles pulling about 8 oz from each side. The reservoir did get low but I don't think it emptied. Is it possible that I went too far and now have air in the master cylinder? How would I correct this?
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I have 2002 Ford Taurus SES. Currently the brake light is on and the ABS and traction control are not working. The brakes have been checked and are ok and it has been hooked up to a code reader and no codes come up. Occasionally the light will go off and the abs and traction control work for awhile.
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I would like to buy a 99 B5, with a 2.8 V6 30V 5 speed GLX. The car is running smooth, accelerates well, but there is a fault with the ABS/BRAKE system. When the car starts up, the ABS and the BRAKE warning lamps are staying on, and the central display says "STOP", "BREMSEN FEHLER", "BERTIEBS ANLEITUNG".
Can I find out the system fault from these messages, or should I get the codes? Does it mean that not just the ABS system is faulty but there is something wrong with the brakes too? I did a test drive, and put on the brakes hardly, and the car stopped well.
And there is an other question..the cluster shows the info in "euro mode" (km, l/100km, german language, etc). I would like to see the info in english, and MPG's and miles, so how can I set back to "US mode"?
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2000 Excursion 2WD 6.8L V-10. Dashboard brake light has come on and is staying on. Fluid is up in reservoir visual on lines and calipers appear in standard nick. Bad brake light switch?
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Well today the tach was not working at all and the check gauge, check engine and glow plug lights are staying on. Truck runs and starts great, everything else seems to work except the trans temp gauge. Did a search for the GEM and could not find anything that indicates the GEM controls the tach and warning lights.
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The alternator on my wifes '07 Santa Fe (2.2 CRDI) broke down when one of the internal diodes gave up last week. The battery warning light came on when she was driving to work. Since then the Alternator has been rebuilt and refitted, and the battery fully charged. The car now runs fine and the Alternator is putting out around 14.6v so charging the battery OK. The only problem is the warning light is still on. How to get it to turn off ?
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I have a bad sensor in a tire that just had a flat. I have ordered the sensor for the wheel and I am wondering after I install the sensor in the tire will the 'reader' pick it up and reset itself or do I need to go through the programming of the new sensor? At this time the TPMS warning light comes on and flashes for a minute or so before staying on constantly. This tells me it's trying to read the tire sensors but there is a fault, which is the tire sensor where I just had the flat. Costco tells me that sensor reads 78psi, which is incorrect. The fact that the reader is trying to read all the sensors and getting an error makes me think that it might reset itself when the new sensor transmitter is put in the tire? Any chance of this resetting itself or will I need to reprogram the receiver unit?
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My 08 Prius developed a hiccup yesterday. While driving down the interstate there was an occasional red flash from the dash. It would come and go so fast that by the time I could actually process it and focus it was gone. I had to stop by the dentist office as I was ready to walk out the door I heard a car in the parking lot with the horn/alarm sounding. I mentioned to the folks in the waiting room that someone alarm was going off. A lady replied that green Prius with the bike rack!
Sure enough it was mine! I was unable to find any causal factor. I left there and at my next stop, the horn/alarm started sounding just as I walked through the entrance door to Home Depot back to the parking lot. This time the Door Ajar/Open light on the dash was lit. I opened and closed all the doors and hatch. The Door Ajar light was still on I then manually manipulated all the door switches and opened/closed/slammed the hatch several times. No Joy I drove home.
About the only thing I was able to find was that it was probably the hatch, the switch is sealed within the locking/latch mechanism and that I could simply just unplug it. So I began troubleshooting.
After removing the rear hatch/floor, plastic bin, etc. I removed the plastic cover from around the latch (above the bumper not on the hatch lid), then removed the longer plastic cover that runs along the same area and provides the cover for the area between the rubber gasket and the inside of the hatch/floor area. Now I was able to see the latch mechanism and associated wiring (looking down toward the spare tire well). I also had the hatch light turned on (left side) which was easier to see than the Door/Ajar light on the dash.
I manually tripped the latch and the light flickered. I pressed down on the latch (hoping to put more pressure on the internal switch)…the light continued to flicker. Using a 10mm socket, I removed the latch, wiring retainers and disconnected the plug. The electrical plug, located about 8†to the left of the latch has 4 wires. The two on the bottom power the electrically operated latch and the two on top go to the Door Ajar switch (the one that is inside the latch assembly).
I noticed a little bit of corrosion and discoloration on one of the male pins (the plug that is connected to the latch end of the wiring). The female plug (connected to the car end of the wiring) also had some discoloration.
I plugged them back together and found that as I moved the wires/plug the light would flicker and change sometimes turning off. I unplugged it and connected my ohm meter (using small jumper wires with clips) to the two top (male) pins on the switch end of the plug. The switch tested fine. I even tested it with my homemade battery powered continuity light (wanting to test the switch under a load). I also wiggled the wires going into the plug itself, Perfect, no problems here! So, I determined the problem was truly with the plug itself. I also jumped the two female connectors with a short piece of wire (simulating the switch) and the light would come on (as it should have). OK, plug problem confirmed!
I cleaned the pins (both male and female), applied some dielectric compound and plugged it up. The light remained off for a few seconds then started flickering again! I could even hear a slight hissing sound coming from the plug (never a good sign). I tried tweaking the male pins (bending them slightly trying for a better connection) No Joy.
I clipped the wires (only the top two) from each end of the plug (red & white/black stripe wires coming from the latch).
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The parking brake audible warning is going off along with the parking brake light. I tried disengaging the brake multiple times and it went off once, however now it will not go off. I found some older pictures of a switch on the arm that swings with your foot when you engage the brake, but I can't find it on my 2004.
Is there a switch down there that needs to be kicked, contacts cleaned or replaced? I checked the fluid level and vacuum hoses and do not see anything obvious.
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I have a 2001 Volkswagen passat 4motion. Why does my brake lights stay on without me pushing the brakes? it only does it when I have my running lights on but as soon as I turn them off they work.
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In my one-owner purchased-new 2005 Prius w/ 74K miles and w/ no maintenance/accident history other than doing all scheduled maintenances at Toyota Dealers along w/ recalls applicable at each time (other than we had Toyota replace the 12V battery last year just because I knew it would die at some point anyway and I don't like pushing my luck; I'm not 100% certain if there's been a recall on any water pump for this car and if so, don't believe the dealer has mentioned it), I have the following indicators which appeared all at once while I was driving along at around 45 MPH in no unusual circumstances (80F, dry afternoon, about 30 minutes into a trip of mixed speeds, no loads in the vehicle, no effect on the car while driving):
From Left to Right on the display:
1) Red Triangle - Master Warning Light
2) Orange (Symbol)CHECK - Malfunction Indicator Lamp
3) Orange (!) - Brake Warning Light (but it didn't highlight the word 'Brake' in red)
4) Orange VSC - Vehicle Stability Control Warning Light
On the Screen:
Orange Car w/ the ! symbol - Hybrid System Warning Light
We immediately aimed for the house (about 5 miles away); the car drove perfectly fine, with the engine stopping and starting at lights as needed, with speeds going from the 55MPH we were traveling at the time of the alarms down to 0 and back up thru 35/45 MPH and such per normal off-interstate driving. The battery currently shows all the blue bars, and the engine and hybrid systems showed charge/discharge as usual as we drove. There was no discernible change in the driving reaction of the car to brake, steering, accelerator, etc.
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2009 F-150 FX4 5.8 .... Had a couple days of 20's temps, started truck last night and I have the brakes symbol and ABS light staying on, with the message "Check brake system" and the traction control symbol alternating back and forth. On a 16 mile trip, they all went out just once, for about ten seconds when I restarted at the gas station. Then came back on. Brake job done within the last two years by previous owner at the dealership.
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I have a 1999 F-150 4.6L V-8, and the battery light is staying on. Something is draining the battery. I have taken it to Auto Zone, and they tested the battery (brand new), starter, and alternator - all show good. The only error they can register is "C1226 brake light lamp short." What could be causing this? I had to get jump started at a gas station 2 nights ago. I have checked the alternator fuse, and it is ok. Could the wiring be bad somewhere?
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2000 taurus se w/20K miles, transaxle warning light begins to flash while driving at highway speeds only (w/auto climate control on, I think -- at least the last 2 times it happened, shutting off AC or heater allowed me to drive on w/o the warning light coming on again).
I stop and restart the engine and the light is off. May come on again in a few miles or not for a long time. No noticeable shifting or driving/operational problems.
Does it in D1 and in D. I'll have to take it in to get checked but want to be knowledgeable in order to save a mega-buck diagnostic that fails to address/correct the problem.
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I've got some issues with my 2005 Toyata Prius (~150,000 miles). My wife was driving recently and the "Master Warning Light", the "Hybrid System Warning Light" and the yellow "Brake System Warning Light" all came on.
Some quick reading of the owners manual said we should take it to a dealer right away, but because it was a yellow, and not red, brake system warning light it seems ok to drive at least to a dealer. in regard to the yellow brake system light the manual said it could be that: "the regenerative brake system failed or that the hydraulic brake system failed".
Now, I have a cheap bluetooth OBD reader hooked up to the "torque" app on my phone and I thought I would try to see what error codes there were to learn more. But strangely, it did not read any fault codes. I've used this reader successfully on my 2001 Mitsubishi galant, but I'm not reading anything for the prius in this case. I'm not sure if there is legitimately no error code associate with the warning lights or if my app is just failing to read them for some reason.
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My 1999 Ford Taurus (140,000 miles) is giving me trouble. This usually happens when I have just driven off the freeway and now am driving in stop and go street traffic. The O/D light indicates it is off. The odometer stops working. The needle on the tachometer slowly accelerates. The speedometer remains stuck at zero. The engine sounds like it it straining to work.I fear that this is going to be an expensive repair; I hesitate taking it to my Ford dealership. My family's trusted auto repair shop technicians seem perplexed by this problem. They hint that this might have something to do with my turbo engine.
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I have a 2006 Ford F 350 Super Duty ABS light comes on stays on till I shut the truck off and restart it this happens about once or twice a week
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I have a 99 Taurus with the airbag lite on. has 110,000 miles. had it in the shop and they said there is power up to the fuse box, but there is an "open" somewhere in the wiring. I have heard that the steering wheel is the most likely culprit.
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So my red door open light started staying on. Along with all the lights associated with the doors being opened. The lights don't always come on, but the dash lights stays. As a quick fix I just popped the bulbs out and went on my way. Tried lubing the doors. That didn't work. I started noticing it seemed to be related to when I was slowing down or turning.
I thought maybe it's my passenger leaning on the door around the turns. So I inspected all the doors, they latch fine and don't feel like they're open. Last night I was riding by myself, and I realized that it wasn't anyone leaning on the door. When I would slow down, at the same spot. I would hear a click and the lights by the doors would come on, as well as the light on the back of the cab over the bed.
It did it every time the whole way home. It was approx. 16-18 mph when it would click. It was the same spot each time but I couldn't really nail the exact speed and watch for deer. I originally thought I'd just replace the sensors in the doors, but idk if that'll work anymore since it seems to be affected by other factors.
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Door ajar light stays on. Lights were staying on until they timed off but after two days they have returned to normal operation. Where the switch is located on the door frame, I can't seem to find it. 2002 ex psd.
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The light on dash for 4X4 stays on no mater where the switch is placed I have it in 2 wd and it stays on. Where I need to start looking.
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