Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2005 6.0 Shut Off Then Fired Right Back Up
Oct 20, 2016
After a long day at work, I had the pleasure of driving home in traffic. While sitting there enjoying the last of the warm weather, I tapped the brakes to slow down and then the truck shut off. I looked down and naturally the battery light came on. I pulled over, turned everything off, then tried to start the truck. The truck fired right up and all indications were normal. The scan gauge showed no codes and batt voltage was normal at 13.3 volts. Where to start looking? Drive home without any faults for the next 20 minutes.
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This is and 6.0L 04 135000 miles. I was pulling a load up a hill when the turbo back fired this was no fart hose blew off at bottom of rad, hose clamp was gone. I reattached hose but now I have lost some power and getting poor fuel mileage. I think turbo is making a howling noise at higher rpms I pressure tested the system does not seem to be any leaks, I'm assuming there something wrong with the turbo, but is it possible the hose clamp was sucked into the rad?
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I have a 1999 F350 V10 and the other day I started her up she fired right up like normal but a few seconds go by and she dies.. I noticed I do have an exhaust manifold issue I have 5 total bolts broken off out of the 20. My question is could the v10 die because of an exhaust leak? Or could it be a vacuum leak? Also after I started her back up when I put her in reverse she idles real rough. I don't believe it to be a plug or coil because all are new.
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Ok truck shut down wouldn't start back. Put fuel filter o. Frame cranks but won't start. Was told has high pressure oil leak in engine?
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I have an 2005 F350 4x4, 6.0 with 294000 miles. My gauges recently started to shut down on there own and then recover. at any speed with no effect on the engine. When I park and shut the system down, they all come back on again at start-up. However, they shut down again and then operate at will as I drive. What's causing this?
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Last fall had one day for about three miles where wipers and washer wouldn't shut off. Now they won't stop at all. Thought the multi switch might be bad, removed whole switch and unhooked. Washer pump and wipers were still on and wouldn't shut off. Had to pull the fuse.
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I have a 2005 F250 with the 6.0L. I went to pass a person, I got the truck up to 80 - 85 mph and made the pass. Everything was fine for a second or two, then the truck started to rock back and forth violently. It shook so hard, it removed cups from the cup holders. I never felt I lost control of the truck, but I have never experienced anything like it before. I slowed the truck down to about 60 mph and the problem stop. What in the world could have caused this?
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I've been wanting to install a back up camera on my truck for quite some time now. A month ago I backed into a steel pole in a parking garage and trashed my bumper, making me realize I need a backup camera I ordered a cheap ebay camera and 30 feet of extra power and video cable for the install.
Down the road I'll order something better but for now I'm working with a cheapo 15 dollar camera I know where I'm mounting the camera and where/how I'm running the cables, I'm just not sure how to get my head unit to switch automatically when I engage the truck in reverse. I have a pioneer double din touch screen radio as seen here on crutch field.
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I was towing a 16' Carmate Box trailer (empty), in tow/Haul mode, through the mountains on the PA turnpike. On an uphill section, 70 mph, suddenly blue smoke was pouring out of the back of the truck. I immediately slowed to about 50mph and pulled over at the next opportunity, about a mile. The bottom of the trans pan was coated with fluid, mostly on left side and the exhaust crossover pipe was smoking. Gauges were all normal. Ambient temp was 90F.
I drove another 40 miles, mostly about 60 mph. No problems. When I started climbing in elevation, and hit 70mph again, the smoke started again. I pulled over again and crawled under to fine the crossover pipe in flames. I grabbed a rag and beat out the flames. Fluid was red. Gauges were normal again. Once I disconnected the trailer, I can find no leaks. Snugged pan bolts. I cannot duplicated the problem without the load and speed.
Background: 2005 Crewcab, 5.4, 5R110 trans, 3.73. 416,000 miles, I have towed about 50K miles of that. Trans always ran great. Never replaced.
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Did a 1600 mile trip and noticed that the cruise 2x would just shut off. Most of the time tho it ran fine. Every once in a while when I would stop for gas and turn off the motor the cruise would not come on at all when we headed back out. Sometimes when it did this it would not come back on till I shut off the truck and then restart. Other times it would work after 20 or so miles.
When it did shut off or not come on, I would try turning it on and off, mashing the buttons HARD, What to do? Or should I just take it to the dealer and be done with it?
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Strange thing happened today while driving down the highway while towing my camper. I was going down the road with the cruise control set at 65 mph and I looked at the dash and I had no tach, speedometer or gauges. The dash was blank. The radio was still playing and I was just coasting to a stop. When I finally pulled to the side of the road, I put the truck in park and turned the key to the off position. Turned the key and it started right up and ran fine for the next 2 hours on my trip. I had been towing for about 3 hours before the truck shut off. Don't want this to happen again as I'm towing back home from FL to CT.
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Ok, I have had this problem a couple of times before, generally when it is wet and cold outside and the result is a very dead battery. The heat/ac blower fan continues to run after the truck has been shut off and the key removed. I believe that it even comes on after the truck has been shut off. What could be causing this?
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I just bought myself an '02 F-350XL 4X4 with a 7.3l, love the truck, but I've got an issue. When you first start the truck and the chimes go through their little ditty, about 3 seconds later they go off again.. but this time they chime five times and cycle five times, so a total of 25 times over a certain period.. seems to do it about every half hour, could this be related to the clock somehow? The truck is bare bones basic, XL trim level Reg cab, Auto with tilt, cruise and A/C, oh and the premium stereo...
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Okay so I have an e99 f250 7.3 the problem all started went I hit a puddle the other day. My horn started going crazy and wouldn't shut off so I had to pull the fuse and relay. After that I found another problem, all my dash lights,headlights and running lights will not turn off unless I pull the battery terminals, it does not matter which way the headlight switch is it can be on or off and they stay on. I did find it though if I pull the negative terminals and put them back on the lights stay off if I turn the switch on and try to turn the lights back off with the switch they stay stuck on again untill I pull the terminals what could be the problem I've looked at every fuse and can't find the probelm.
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I already reset inertia switch but it still wont start is there a way to by pass the inertia switch...
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So I went to start my truck today (1999 f250 5.4), it hasn't ran in a couple days due to -38C weather. When I started it today, it started rough(understandable in this weather) but my abs light and brake light came on and will not shut off. It ran fine the last time I used it, but now the lights came on. What may have happened.
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I have a 2004 F-250 SD, Crew Cab, 6.0L diesel. Out of the blue, when opening the door with the key off and out, the dome lights stopped working, the radio wouldn't shut off and I would get no warning that I had left my lights on (nor any other warning coincident with the door opening). Just as if the truck is not detecting the door being opened.
One would immediately suspect the door switches, except that this was a suddenly occurring problem that affected all four doors, by sheer odds, pretty much negating this problem as one to do with the door switches. Still, I did spray the switches with WD40, couldn't hurt, right?
I have replaced relays (#306) with known good relays, I have pulled and looked over every single fuse. I have read of door post wiring issues with F-150's that speak to this issue for that model, but am not convinced that translates to the F-250. I'm at a loss, and almost perfectly convinced this is a computer problem (the GEM, though it's called something different now). But before I go replacing expensive computers, I would like to know how to diagnose this.
As it is, I've learned to live with the fact the radio will stay on when I get out of the truck and will time out after 10-20 minutes. I've learned to live without the dome light coming on and have counted my blessings when the foresight of some engineer saved me from a dead battery by knowing that I would leave the manual dome light switch on from time to time. I've learned to look back at the truck to make sure I haven't left the headlights on. In other words, I've learned to live with this problem.
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My 2006 6.0 shut off immediatEly after starting this morning and never started back up. I have a scan Guage 2 hooked up. I'm showing no ficm voltage and no sync even when cranking. I physically checked the ficm voltage with a dvm at the screw to the far right on the ficm, and I have 48 volts. Why do I have 48 volts at the ficm, but 0 volts showing on my scan guage? And no sync when cranking?
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2002 Ford F350 7.3...
After replacing the Glow Plug Module and the cam sensor. I have no codes on the scanner. However, after driving the truck for one hour or two it stalled and after cool down about a while t started and stalled after hot. Now I been reading lots of info and this is what I got so far.
Flow Sensor
Fuel injector control
Fuel pump
And one person said that he change the wire harnesses for glow plug on top of the head covers?
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I am new to the site and my 1999 F-350 4x4 7.3 manual. I parked on a hill and noticed the truck would intermittenly roll an inch at a time while in first gear and shut off. The parking brake does need adjusting and/or replacing. I also found a re-call for the p-brake cable that i have an appt. for. What i am not sure of is that the clutch is slipping while parked and needing replaced or what it might be.
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I bought this truck used and it is my first F-250. I took it to the shop last week and they found a few things and a cracked radiator was one. They replaced the radiator with a new one. I heard the sound before the new radiator and I still hear it now. The coolant level is not dropping and the engine is not over heating (also no fluid on the ground). Is this a normal cool down sound?
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