Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: ABS Light Came On And Throwing A Rear Speed Sensor Code
Jun 30, 2017
I've got a 2006 F350 5.4L.
The ABS light came on and it was throwing a 'rear speed sensor' code. I searched around and it seemed to be a common issue that the sensor goes bad and needs to be replaced.
I bought a sensor and replaced it, but in doing so, I saw that while the sensor was indeed bad (cracked) the wire right at the connector was corroded.
I replaced the sensor but the ABS light is still on the dash. Is it possible that they code simply needs to be cleared? I was able to read it with my OBD2 dongle and Dash Command App, but maybe I'm not able to clear it?
Or is it more likely that the corroded wire on the connector is the issue? (it wasn't fully corroded and I cleaned it up and sealed it.). It didn't look like I could pull the wires out of the connector, so I assume I'll need a new connector. What is the part number?
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I went to have the code read, and it was no signal from the rear ABS speed sensor. I replaced the sensor, and the light is still on. Also my speedo is off a bit. It is reading about 7-10 miles an hour faster than what it should. The mechanic can't seem to find the issue. I have a 06 F250, Powerstroke.
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So I had an ABS light going on and off on my 05 250, finally got it read, and the computer said right front speed sensor. I changed it and the light stayed on all the time then. I had someone plug it in and drive it and the left front sensor was reading nice and flat on the graph, while the right front was spiking all over the place. I then assumed I got a bad sensor. I changed it one more time and now the light still won't go off. Now what?!
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I recently bought a h&s tuner and installed a dpf delete kit. Everything works great when the truck is not plugged in to the tuner although when I do plug it in, the truck keeps throwing a communications code and goes into a limp mode until I delete the code. I believe it was p0073 but i maye be mistaken. Regardless it has to do with communicating through the obd2 port. I sent the tuner in to get checked out and it turns out its something to do with the truck. I've checked all the fuses and tried to check for broken wires. Where to look next?
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My 2008 f250 6.4l just got out of the shop a week a go new small block and new pistons, throwing #1 constrabution code,map sensor and #1 cil misfire you can hear air come out of the intake, I am guessing valve train or lifter..... other problem two days after the truck throwing the codes i went to take it to the shop and would barely drive floored struggle to go 10mph put it in park rev up normal will go in reverse normal just no power in drive, no transmission codes, had it towed to the diesel shop, mech said might be a fail safe on transmission from the engine codes? it has egr/dfp h&s mini maxx tuner, the truck has 170k on body 11k on new engine before the new block that was put in last week.
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So I just replace my Cat. Converter with all new sensors in them. I just replaced my spark plugs. (I'm knocking out these check engine light problems) and I think I'm getting close to the root as to why these other parts went bad. Why my o2 sensor would be stuck on "lean" ....
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Having problem with oil cooler pump throwing the wrench light? Dealer says it cools the oil and mine could be clogged a bit.. cost of total job around 8-10 k. And take cab off.
It seems when engine gets hot wrench light comes on cause not cooling oil down properly... it overheated. Gauges were very high.. Once when I was in full boost towing a ranger up a hill. First time it ever happened.. pulled over for 5 mins than started temp went back normal and finished tow no problem after that cause I kept boost lower!
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I have been trying to find a new sensor after my truck popped a P2285 code. I can't find ICP sensor at any auto parts store. I found this but it was labeled as a fuel pressure sensor on RockAuto: More Information for Standard Motor Products ICP103... Is this the same thing?
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Code was showing for the knock and climbed under the truck and checked to see if it was plugged in grabbed the wire and to my surprise the wire kept coming and so did a piece of the knock sensor, is this going to affect my truck badly?? worst case?? 97 f250 4.6 standard
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2001 F250. I have had issues on other trucks where you get a funny-acting speedometer with a code that comes up as VSS (sensor on top of the rear differential)....And it shifted exact same way.
My new truck speedometer is totally fine and the ABS is on with codes:
C1158 Left front speed sensor coherency malfunction
C1155 Left front speed sensor input circuit malfunction
Shifts about the same way on the trucks with bad VSS.
Question is will a bad front speed sensor affect the way the trans shifts? Doesn't happen all the time. If you go slow it shifts smooth. If you pull off fast a barely noticeable jerk from 1-2 and 2-3....
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We just bought and '05 F350 Turbo Diesel, about two days after getting it the check engine light came on. We had the dealer check it since the mechanic wasn't in and it came up as "Fuel Level Sensor" . My husband can't remember the exact code. We have been told it's no big deal but we want it fixed and the engine light to go off. The dealer is giving us the runaround, or at least I think so.
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I keep getting a lean bank code. I have cleaned tb and replaced one of the rubber lines. It only comes on when I take a good ride with the truck. Not sure what else it could be. I'm thinking O2 sensor maybe.
2008 F-350 5.4 3V. 65k miles
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What exactly does the sensor on the rear axle do? 08' f350. I know it's a speed sensor of some sort, but what does it do or control exactly.
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2011 6.7... My truck is throwing code P2033 Exhaust Gas Temperature Sensor Circuit High Bank 1 Sensor. What is the part number for that sensor?
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I am running a 2008 Ford F-250 with the DPF Delete and the Mini Maxx Tunner. I have replaced the ECT (Engine Coolant Temp Sensor) as well as the EGR Valve and housing troubleshooting this issue. Both the Engine light and the coolant icon come on when I turn on the vehicle. I am getting a P0117 Engine Coolant Temperature Circuit Low code on the Mini Maxx.
From a cold start with codes cleared if I turn the engine to ON even without starting the engine the Engine codes will come on and the the Mini Maxx will read engine coolant temp 302 and will go into Defueling Mode. I have repeatedly tried removing and reattaching the connector to the ECT thinking it could be loose connection. I can't drive the truck because there is no power and i know the engine is not hot because I have let it sit all night before doing these tests. I do not have a scanner to test other than the Mini Maxx. Other notes: I have checked Coolant I have checked Oil
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Ive had this 2009 F250 4x4 Super Crew, 6.4 for 2 years now. Bought it the way it sits with a 6" ProComp lift and 37" Yokohama Open Countrys. Recently, once I get up to 40-45 mph, the rear end starts vibrating violently until I speed up or slow down. There isn't any clanking noise and it's silent. I look in the mirrors to see if it's the tires but they appear to be rotating smoothly. It's never done this before. It's like a tire is out of balance but it shakes much harder than that should be at that speed. It rides smooth as can be at any other speed all the way up to 80 mph which is the faster than i drive. What this could be? I've done searches but can only find info on the front end death wobble which is not the case here.
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Where I can get or have a speed nut for the front eye bolt of the right rear leaf spring? If you do I'll gladly send you some cash for it and to cover shipping it. It's supposed to rain pretty much all week here and I really don't want to go to a junkyard. I have checked ford parts and nothing there you can get the hanger that attaches to the frame that the spring bolts to but not the speed nut or bolt only need the speed nut though. Truck is an 2004 f-250 so 1999-04 will work and 05 to 07 is setup the same in the rear but I don't know if they are the same size bolt since they made the frame heavier. I have no idea after 07 when they made the springs longer.
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I recently picked up a 2005 f250 SD 5.4 4x4... I was having issues with sporadic shifting and wandering shifts while cruising around 100kph, scanned it and came up with p0721 OSS sensor circuit performance fault.
I checked the harness and all looks fine, now I attempted to remove the OSS at the rear of the tranny, got the 8mm bolt out however could not, for the life of me get the sensor out. I tried not to use pliers to twist the sensor or anything for fear of breaking the sensor off and having bits go into the transmission.
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(The truck is a 05 f250 with a 5.4l). The problem first started out with the engine temperature gauge spiking and then resetting itself when the truck is turned off and then turned back on. If I drove the truck for any distance it would go into limp mode and the CEL would come on. The code was p1299, which is the cylinder head temperature sensor, and I replaced the sensor but no luck. Then the shop and I went through all accessories hooked up and couldn't find a short until I remembered that my prodigy break controller would occasionally read "ol" or "sh" which both readings are from shorts. I tow a enclosed trailer about 85% of the time and the past week I have been towing it with a different 250 and the same break controller without a problem so I have eliminated the trailer. But the shop just said the problem was the controller and unhooked it.
Now the next day it threw the same code with the controller unhooked and the trailer hooked up. after thinking it seemed that it was happening when i accelerated so I took apart the 7 pin and sure enough there was a little water in it, but after driving it around for a little and no code being thrown I hooked my break controller up and it still was showing ol or sh so i believe there is still a short. Also I noticed that my voltage is reading right at 13v instead of the 13.8-14v it was reading before this issue arose. I think I have narrowed it down to the 7 pin harness and/or electrical in the break components, but do not know what would loop back to the temperature sensor.
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07 f250 has a shimmy from the rear at highway speed. Has new tires is worse with a load. What am I missing here?
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I have a 2006 f-350 6.0 and i went to fill up my truck with diesel. After that the truck did not start. Currently has the code p2285 - injector control pressure sensor circuit low. I tried disconnecting sensor, still no start.
I have the torque pro app and another 6.0 that I use for comparison. Check power at ficm 48 volt, flp 11.5v, FVP 11.5v. Hpop while cranking shows 1400 psi. removed oil filter and see low pressure oil ok, fills up reservoir. ipr at crank about 65%. fuel filter full of fuel.
Replaced the dummy plug on passenger side because originally hpop was very low psi 12. after replacement it went up to 1400 on cranking. What should I be looking at next, should I be removing ipr? should i be looking at crank sensor or cam sensor? Just installed 2 new batteries also because my dad kept cranking the truck until it died.
Checked to make sure fuel cut off relay not triggered, Ok. The truck has been having long cranks before it died. Also right now the injector cycling is 10 seconds long while on my other 6.0 it is about 4.
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