Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: ABS Light Won't Go Off With New Speed Sensor
Aug 21, 2011
So I had an ABS light going on and off on my 05 250, finally got it read, and the computer said right front speed sensor. I changed it and the light stayed on all the time then. I had someone plug it in and drive it and the left front sensor was reading nice and flat on the graph, while the right front was spiking all over the place. I then assumed I got a bad sensor. I changed it one more time and now the light still won't go off. Now what?!
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I've got a 2006 F350 5.4L.
The ABS light came on and it was throwing a 'rear speed sensor' code. I searched around and it seemed to be a common issue that the sensor goes bad and needs to be replaced.
I bought a sensor and replaced it, but in doing so, I saw that while the sensor was indeed bad (cracked) the wire right at the connector was corroded.
I replaced the sensor but the ABS light is still on the dash. Is it possible that they code simply needs to be cleared? I was able to read it with my OBD2 dongle and Dash Command App, but maybe I'm not able to clear it?
Or is it more likely that the corroded wire on the connector is the issue? (it wasn't fully corroded and I cleaned it up and sealed it.). It didn't look like I could pull the wires out of the connector, so I assume I'll need a new connector. What is the part number?
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I went to have the code read, and it was no signal from the rear ABS speed sensor. I replaced the sensor, and the light is still on. Also my speedo is off a bit. It is reading about 7-10 miles an hour faster than what it should. The mechanic can't seem to find the issue. I have a 06 F250, Powerstroke.
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2001 F250. I have had issues on other trucks where you get a funny-acting speedometer with a code that comes up as VSS (sensor on top of the rear differential)....And it shifted exact same way.
My new truck speedometer is totally fine and the ABS is on with codes:
C1158 Left front speed sensor coherency malfunction
C1155 Left front speed sensor input circuit malfunction
Shifts about the same way on the trucks with bad VSS.
Question is will a bad front speed sensor affect the way the trans shifts? Doesn't happen all the time. If you go slow it shifts smooth. If you pull off fast a barely noticeable jerk from 1-2 and 2-3....
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Well... my ABS light popped on two days ago. I was pulling a 6x12 trailer filled with random yard waste and other junk at the time. Not sure if that triggered it or not... So right away I changed the speed sensor on the rear diff... that is usually the cause plus it's only a 15 dollar part and 10 minutes to change out so I figured why not. The light is still on. So I go to my local Advanced Auto (where I bought the sensor from) and I get a free scan.
According to their scanner, both front wheel speed sensors AND the rear sensor on the diff (which I just replaced) are bad. Does this sound right? I've heard a low battery can sometimes trigger the ABS light too. The truck continues to drive perfectly normal like nothing happened. Brakes, speedometer, cruise, etc. EVERYTHING still works perfect. Just got that damn light on... so what say you FTE?
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The warning in the title has been appearing for months. Push reset and the display message goes away but the orange light stays on. No rhyme or reason. Sometimes it's gone after a restart for a day or two. Sometimes it stays on no matter how many times the truck is shut down and restarted in a day.
So I finally took it into Ford for service today because the truck is still under warranty. They ask if the tires have been replaced. Obviously they have because I've got BFG KO2s that are a size or two bigger than stock. But I explained that the tires have been on for several months and that the issued did not present itself when the truck came out of the tire shop. It didn't happen until a couple of months later.
So they tell me that their tool can't even detect that any sensors are present and that they'll break down a tire to check and see that a sensor is there. Two & a half hours later they tell me that they've ordered a body control module and cut me loose with the truck. They'll call when the part is here.
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I have a 2008 F250 SD 5.4L with 335,000KM's(200,000+miles).
The engine light came on a few weeks ago and I cannot seem to get rid of it. I have also noticed when I'm accelerating hard at higher speeds/RPM's the engine light flashes?? After when I get to the cruising speed and let off the gas pedal the engine light stops flashing and stays solid. Also when accelerating hard there seems to be a hesitation, almost like the engine is choking itself. Once it gets passed the hesitation point during hard accelerating it seems fine? I have ran about 6 bottles of Seafood through the engine and gas tank. It definitely worked out but still has the hesitation, flashing engine light syndrome...I have changed the following with still no luck...
-Spark Plugs
-Coil on Plug
-Fuel Injectors
-Cam Phase sensors
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I've owned my 2012 F-250, 6.7L for less than a week and it has a check engine light. The local dealer can't see me for a week, and I need to leave town next week.
I went to AutoZone to have the codes checked and this is what they came back with:
P2033
Exhaust Gas Temperature Sensor Circuit High Bank 1 Sensor 2
P2031
Exhaust Gas Temperature Sensor Circuit High Bank 1 Sensor 2
Can I drive on these codes, or should I park the truck until Ford can see me?
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You know the "mechanic's fiances truck" problem. I recently replaced the cam sensor in my 05' F250 Gas. The check engine light had been on for a while before that and my truck rode great, however I now want to sell it and I can't do that with a check engine light on. It's got about 85k miles on it.
After replacing the sensor, the light went off for about 20 miles, but it is now back on and my truck seems to miss every once in a while on acceleration or cruising. Some days it's worse than others. The check engine light still says cam sensor, but the sensor is brand new.
My fiance is a mechanic, so I don't know all the details about code numbers and such. However, I want to sell this truck pretty soon, and I would like it to run correctly. His dad (another mechanic) seems to think it could be a coil and wants to wait for that light to come on, but I would rather fix the problem and sell the truck!
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So I just replace my Cat. Converter with all new sensors in them. I just replaced my spark plugs. (I'm knocking out these check engine light problems) and I think I'm getting close to the root as to why these other parts went bad. Why my o2 sensor would be stuck on "lean" ....
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My Bank 2 Sensor 2 oxygen sensor is faulty and I need to replace it. The guys at the parts store were pretty certain it is downstream driver's side, but I just want to make sure before I PB Blasted and removed it. 2008 F250 SD v10 ....
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What this clunk could be?? in my truck in signature, 2003 F350 CCLB 4x4, 4" lift. its only low speed, on very light bumps. really does it when the truck flexes, like turning into an elevated driveway or something. driving me absolutely insane the last few months. it sounds like its coming from right under my feet
-removed front shocks and drove
-removed front sway bar and drove
-front wheel bearings are new and tight
-front leaf spring, rear upper shackle bushings are new (thought that was problem..no)
-front leaf springs and bushings are new, although i suppose its possible to have a bad bushing already
-removed traction bars and drove
-removed front track bar and drove, but going to try this again.
-all cab mounts look ok
-took out cab mount under drivers foot, and cut down the metal piece a little...read about it on another thread on here. no change
-made sure my gooseneck ball couldn't rattle
-steering box is new...thought that was it
-steering shaft is solid
-transmission mount bushing and crossmember feel tight
-lubed front driveshaft slip joint and it doesn't have any u joint play
-rear shocks seem ok but haven't removed them yet
-fuel tank is solid
-rear driveshaft has new carrier bearing and u joints, all is tight
-exhaust is not hitting anything
-u bolts all tight, spring bolts are tight
As you can see, I've been through damn near everything. my only thoughts right now is a possible bad cab bushing, or bad leaf spring bushing...as it sounds like its right under my feet. and when you flex the truck, it makes all sort of popping and clunking noises. i had the truck on my buddies lift and we went under it for an hour yesterday looking around with no luck. only thing i found was a bad traction bar bushing but we removed them and it still does it..
Most noticeable at the end of the video...it sounds exactly like a bad sway bar bushing but that's not it...
Front end clunk - YouTube ....
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Purchased my 2012 6.7 about 3 weeks ago. Driving yesterday the CEL light came on. I took and had the code read and it was determined that EGT sensor # 4 was bad. Also how far can it be driven before it leaves you stranded since the closest dealer is 35 miles away.
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Any way to disable the reverse sensors by maybe adding a switch to turn off power so it does not constantly go off while plowing and the sensors are snow covered? i thought maybe by just unplugging the switch would do it, but that did not work. truck is an 02 diesel with auto trans.
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I have been trying to find a new sensor after my truck popped a P2285 code. I can't find ICP sensor at any auto parts store. I found this but it was labeled as a fuel pressure sensor on RockAuto: More Information for Standard Motor Products ICP103... Is this the same thing?
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My engine light came on a friend of mine did a scan and came up with o2s12 showing low voltage.we need to know which side and location of sensor..the truck is a 2005 ford f250 super duty 5.4l.
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Code was showing for the knock and climbed under the truck and checked to see if it was plugged in grabbed the wire and to my surprise the wire kept coming and so did a piece of the knock sensor, is this going to affect my truck badly?? worst case?? 97 f250 4.6 standard
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I was driving into the night a couple days ago and noticed first that the dash lights are not working. As it got darker I then noticed that my tail lights and running lights were also not working. I have a 2002 F250 powerstroke extended cab. I pulled the fuse panel cover off but can't find a blown fuse.
What fuse number would be suspect, and also if there may be a bad relay in the mix? The daylight sensor on the dash does not seem to be functioning either. In good light the headlights stay on (when switched to automatic mode) no matter if it is covered or not when the ignition is on.
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2007 E450 Van. Dash light came on. OBD2 reader indicates: P2196 Ford - Lack of HO2S-11 Switch Sensor Indicates Rich
I need to find out which sensor to replace. It looks like I need to replace Bank 1, Sensor 1, but I am not sure where it is located. My guess it's located on the manifold, but I'm not sure if it's driver or passenger side.
A friend says, "Look in the owners manual for the van and find out which cylinder is cylinder number 1. Cylinder 1 is always on Bank 1."
The owner's manual has no indication of where cylinder one is located. I do not have a service manual.
I am not highly technical, but I do think I can replace the sensor myself, or at least I would like to give it a try.
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Where are the door sensors located?
The ones that turn the light and off when you open and close the doors.
It use to be switches on the old trucks and cars.
But on my 2006 F-250 I can find anything that seems to do that function, nor is anything mentioned in the repair manuel.
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So, recently acquired my grandpa's "old" 2000 F250 with the 5.4. I am a pretty mechanical guy, not a mechanic, but not dumb and change my own parts for a lot of stuff. Anyways, when I got the truck, I noticed it didn't like to get warm, or so the gauge said. It would go a little above cold, but you could tell, not a normal reading. I did a coolant flush because the system desperately needed it, changed the tstat, and a few days later, changed the Coolant Temperature sensor.
I pulled the old one out, it was covered in amazing crud from many years of being in there. Slapped the new one in, nothing. Doesn't register on the gauge at all, in fact the gauge acts like it is a dead gauge. I thought it might be the sensor, so I popped the hood again and found I had managed to break the plastic plug on the sensor. Figured that was probably the issue and went and got another. Same result. Checked the connection, it is in there snug. Didn't reset the PCM when I changed the sensor and some vehicles can be finnicky about that.
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