Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: Oil Cooler Pump Throwing Wrench Light?
Jul 23, 2017
Having problem with oil cooler pump throwing the wrench light? Dealer says it cools the oil and mine could be clogged a bit.. cost of total job around 8-10 k. And take cab off.
It seems when engine gets hot wrench light comes on cause not cooling oil down properly... it overheated. Gauges were very high.. Once when I was in full boost towing a ranger up a hill. First time it ever happened.. pulled over for 5 mins than started temp went back normal and finished tow no problem after that cause I kept boost lower!
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I have a 2005 F250 5.4L 2wd. Parked the vehicle in my driveway and the next morning there was no response from the accelerator and the CEL light and the wrench light on. I pulled the codes and came up with codes P2104, P2107 and P2110. The KOEO code was P2122. I checked the wiring and connectors and all appear to be fine I replaced the throttle body and no change. I removed the accelerator pedal and tried it on another vehicle and it worked fine. I have power to pin 16 on the diagnostic port. After clearing the codes and rescanning the same codes come up immediately.
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Pulled into work and the truck was running fine then i got out and shut it off and went to start it again to move it 5 minutes later and it would start and misfire and chug and the wrench light came on as well as check engine and abs. I replaced the throttle body motor with the doorman part and I'm installing a new electronic pedal today as well.
The weird part is the chugging as i replaced all plugs and coil packs, plugs are champion double platinum. when all this started it was raining pretty hard out side I've cleaned all plugs with compressed air and used dietetic grease on most until i ran out. Truck is a 2006 f250 with 3v 5.4 automatic... Truck is my work truck and i am stumped on this .....could cam sensors cause the same issues? What about egr valve?
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We hadn't started our 2008 F250 in about 2 weeks. It got really cold the last few nights, about 10 degrees, so I thought I should start it. It started and ran for about 30 seconds, stalked, then the wrench light came on and it will not start. The truck only has 84k original miles and we just had a tune up about 8 months ago.
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2007 ford f250 .... 200k on it ....
Just had refurb engine installed with new oil elements as well. On a 9 hr road trip, the wrench light came on but no other warning lights.
No stock gauges showed any raises in levels.
No noticed loss of power at all.
The light would only come on once I drove at about 75 mph for about 10+ miles. It would not turn off when i slowed down, but when I would kill the truck and restart it, the light would be off. Just driving in town or on the highway briefly, nothing comes on. Took it in to oreillys to get scanned and they tell me a few codes pull up but none of them are valid. What would trigger the wrench?
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So today. I filled my truck full of diesel. when I started it back up, it through the wrench light plus drain water separator. What it could be I have a loss in power. wont get over 45mph.
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I've got a 2006 F350 5.4L.
The ABS light came on and it was throwing a 'rear speed sensor' code. I searched around and it seemed to be a common issue that the sensor goes bad and needs to be replaced.
I bought a sensor and replaced it, but in doing so, I saw that while the sensor was indeed bad (cracked) the wire right at the connector was corroded.
I replaced the sensor but the ABS light is still on the dash. Is it possible that they code simply needs to be cleared? I was able to read it with my OBD2 dongle and Dash Command App, but maybe I'm not able to clear it?
Or is it more likely that the corroded wire on the connector is the issue? (it wasn't fully corroded and I cleaned it up and sealed it.). It didn't look like I could pull the wires out of the connector, so I assume I'll need a new connector. What is the part number?
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I was changing the vct solenoid on the driver side and I dropped a 3-4" Allen wrench inside the hole. I tool the valve cover off and can't see much down inside. Its not to the right by the cams, I think it fell down in front by the timing chains but I can't see it caught on a chain or anywhere. I drained the oil and took the filter off and looked in the oil pan with a snake camera, no luck.
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My 2006 F350 is starting to heat up on me while at lights and parked while idling. I am going to do a reverse flush with Restore and Restore Plus as per Nylyons guide.
I also plan to switch out the oil cooler and upgrade the EGR.
Engine Oil Cooler Upgraded EGR Cooler Kit Ford 6 0L OHV V8 Diesel Turbo ....
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I recently bought a h&s tuner and installed a dpf delete kit. Everything works great when the truck is not plugged in to the tuner although when I do plug it in, the truck keeps throwing a communications code and goes into a limp mode until I delete the code. I believe it was p0073 but i maye be mistaken. Regardless it has to do with communicating through the obd2 port. I sent the tuner in to get checked out and it turns out its something to do with the truck. I've checked all the fuses and tried to check for broken wires. Where to look next?
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2008, 5.4 liter, F250, with 6-speed manual transmission
My truck was running fine until I decided to clean my engine. I just wanted to remove the extra dust covering it, so I used a low pressure garden hose to wash away the dirt that had accumulated last winter and spring.
It started throwing codes like Fuel Rail pressure sensors, P0191, P0192. I had no power, and I could hardly drive the truck.
I figured I had some water in some connectors, so I checked around, but could not detect any moisture.
I kept driving it, and the problem got less severe. One warm summer day, I drove my truck for about an hour trip, and everything looked fine after this. Problem never came back.
I was even noticing that it was better on gas that ever before, I was doing 11liters/100km, in city driving.
Until one day (2 months later), I had to disconnect the battery to do some servicing on my truck (more that 30 minutes), and it started to run crappy again, having some piston misfire, throwing codes P2198 and P2196, (O2 sensors). No power, if I am very gentle on the gas pedal, I can manage it, but as soon as i try to accelerate, runs like crap, black smoke coming out of the exhaust.
The problem comes and goes, sometimes, the problem stops, and I can get going, no issues. Air filter is clean, even tried with no air filter, no differences., but it really sounds like bad air/fuel mixture.
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I've had the truck for almost a year. It had 2900mi when I bought it. It's got 18k on it now. A few weeks ago I stopped to get the mail and the dash started going crazy throwing every warning you could think of. I got back in and all the codes were gone. I figured it was a fluke until last week. It did it again. I let it run for a few minutes and decided to turn it off. It wouldn't start back up right away. After about 20min, it started and I drove straight to the dealer.
They had it for 2 days, cleared all the codes and couldn't replicate it. They said the codes were U codes and not real codes?? The next morning it did the same thing again. I took it back and after 3 days, they said they could only think that my AMP Powersteps were the cause. They disconnected the steps and wanted to keep it for a few more days. I said no and picked it back up. It made it 2 days and I got the codes again.
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My 2008 f250 6.4l just got out of the shop a week a go new small block and new pistons, throwing #1 constrabution code,map sensor and #1 cil misfire you can hear air come out of the intake, I am guessing valve train or lifter..... other problem two days after the truck throwing the codes i went to take it to the shop and would barely drive floored struggle to go 10mph put it in park rev up normal will go in reverse normal just no power in drive, no transmission codes, had it towed to the diesel shop, mech said might be a fail safe on transmission from the engine codes? it has egr/dfp h&s mini maxx tuner, the truck has 170k on body 11k on new engine before the new block that was put in last week.
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I've got a thick layer of black soot-like buildup on the lower passenger side of my intercooler. Just bought the truck (2008 F250, 6.4L, CC, SWB, 4x4, 150K miles).
What would cause a buildup like this on the intercooler?
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I have Russell fittings and hose coming to hook up my new 6.0 cooler into my 5.4 powered truck. Have a question on the fittings on the bottom of the radiator for the cooler lines, first what is the 3/8" line called? Is it a double flare or what? And second question the female end that's into the plastic tank with the hex head does that unscrew or is it made into the tank? Trying to figure this out so I can overnight two adapters so I can get rid of the fugly hard line completely and use Russell braided line throughout my install
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My EGR cooler started to leak last week . Right now I have it , the oil cooler and HPOP out for the updated STC fitting. [9-05 Trk. build date with 2 piece fitting]
Yesterday I pulled the turbo apart to check the vanes .Was throwing a 0299 code for some time . It took half the day to separate the Unison ring from the housing,. Cleaned and freed it up. Unison ring shows no wear .but the mating surface of the turbo housing is corroded and not smooth. Shaft end play is fine.Would not put it back on if I were not selling this truck. Truck has 77,000 miles and in great shape.
How critical is having a smooth surface for the unison ring to mate to?
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Recently had an oil cooler EGR cooler replaced. On my first big tow broke down on a major highway. Got it towed to the dealership and diagnosed as a blown out IPR screen. Replace the entire IPR and had no problems the entire trip. A few week later I am sensing the same problems again that i had before the major blowout. Randomly while driving down the highway the truck will stall for a half second or so and then kick back in and continue fine. Seems like the truck loses fuel for a second and then regains itself.
And it's not always at speed either...sometimes just coming to a stop I can feel it. Now this has only happened three times in the past 10 days or so but seems like it needs to get addressed. These symptoms are similar to what I experienced before my major IPR blowout. After it was replaced I didn't have any of the stalling problems but its now happening again. Could I possibly have some gunk in the IPR again that's causing this intermittent problem? Or something else altogether?
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I bought my 2015 in August of last year with 8K miles and here I sit at the dealership with 15K for the second time in 4 days.
Truck loses gauges while driving and throws all the warnings (tire pressure, temp, hill descent, and on and on). If I turn it off it won't start. I disconnected the battery first time it happened, about a month ago, and it restarted. Thursday it wouldn't start until the tow truck driver got it off the flatbed at the service center (go figure). This time I got it on video and parked it at the service center myself. I showed the foreman the video.
The service advisor told me it needed a software update last Friday when I picked it up, which is another way of saying they had no idea and didn't put much thought into it since it was running when they had it. The notes said they did a diagnostic, found no codes, and "drove it on a bumpy road" with no issues. Really?
This is extremely frustrating! I hope they actually do something this time. The damn thing started again before I left it with them!
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2010 F350 in my shop today. so, before dismantling the entire top of the motor for this inbred oil cooler job, is there anything else responsible for the P012 engine oil temp issue? it throws the wrench icon and cuts power and i pulled the P012F code.
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What's an acceptable GVW value when one is looking to replace the air to oil cooler for this transmission?
2001 F250 CC SB PSD 7.3 Edge
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Buddy is fixing his 6.0 2005 F450 with a blown turbo. Diagnosed by the dealer, but decided we could fix it ourselves. The dealer quoted a turbo and to pull the charge air cooler and clean. It looks like the turbo job is not too bad to do, but how big of a job is the R&R of the charge air cooler?
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