Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: Battery Just Died While Driving - No Start
Jan 31, 2015
TBC fault has been showing on my 2006 Ford F-250 for a couple of years dealer said it wasn't an issue--- check engine light has been on for months, then lost speedometer back in November. Intermittently radio and fuel gauge shut off while driving--- stared needing a boost in really cold weather for the last month.
Driving today my battery just died while driving and I had the truck towed to mechanic--- they put new battery in and ran electrical diagnostics. Saying that it might be timing chain/cam shaft OR electrical components for computer system... I'm lost and so are they and don't want to spend thousands while they diagnose the source.....
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Driving down the highway, battery gauge read fine power, but battery light came on. In a remote Alaska situation so I couldn't diagnose, plus truck is new to me. Kept driving towards civilization. All gauge dropped. Then lights dimmed, then truck died. This was over about 15 miles. At night with lights on. Truck has a plow with plow lights, aftermarket cranking stereo which I was using, heater on (Alaska). It sits 70 miles up the highway from where I'm at getting ready to go back and work on it. So...
Of course first thought it is the alternator, not providing enough power for all this. Looked inside, it is a newer looking reman. Belt is fine. My question is, if not this, what else could it be? I'm hoping to haul the alternator and whatever else out there and get it going without having to drive back and forth for more stuff I need. I can always return stuff I don't use. Probably I'll throw a new battery in it as well. But after that, anything else I should be thinking/ready for?
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2002 F-250 SD V10 Auto Trans 140K miles.....
Engine ran fine until battery died. Vehicle then sat from Nov to May with no battery in it. On start up now after install of new battery, engine initially surged at idle and seemed to miss (run rough) in gear/under load. No CEL or codes. After a single short drive idle and running under load seemed to have improved a bit, but not yet back to what I would call normal.
QUESTIONS:
Is this simply a matter of the computer having to relearn after battery disconnect?
Will driving restore things back to where they were/should be?
How much driving/How far?
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Had an issue with the negative cable n had to replace the bolt n nut. Since then its been making weird noises under the dash n under the hood even when the key is off. Sounds like something moving around under there almost but i know there is nothing. Also making buzzing noise every 30 minutes or so for a few then stops. Separate noises n 2 separate issues tho
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2004 F-250. 6.0 I was driving down the road when the engine dies. It was like I had turned off the key. When I tried to restart it, it was no click, no starter sound, nothing. The glow plug light remained on, even while turning the key over. What could cause this?
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We have a 2004 Ford F250 gas pick up. Went out this morning to start to let it warm up it started and ran for about 10 seconds then died. Almost sounded like a shot going off when it died. Now it is completely dead no lights, no chiming when you put the key in the ignition no nothing. I have tried to jump start it and obviously that didn't work. I also checked the fuses and didn't see anything blown.
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A friend has a 2003 6.0,around 200000kms well maintained just had new injectors,filters etc. This truck is his bread and butter so anything that needs to be addressed gets it, pretty much touble free until now. Just out of the blue last week at driving @60kms/hr pulling an empty trailer it died no surge or sputter. Full fuel,oil etc,they tried to get it running and it would not fire up. His local auto shop pretty much gave up on it and it now sits at our Ford dealership. Thoughts are leaning to fuel delivery to electrical can we ball park some things that he can put forward to the dealer to get him in and out sooner.
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I have a 2003 f350 v-10 drove it yesterday to get fuel, went to start it after fueling. No start, no lights dash was gauged was acting odd, and clicking under the dash from behind fuse box. did get it to start after a while, put my foot on the brake to go into drive, never made it ... truck died I do have remote start system thought it was that with the brake pedal issue. disconnected complete system. no change Had it towed, home now no nothing, connect the battery and just clicking from under dash no start ? not a battery, won't even jump Battery is good, the power to starter, Posted this also in light-duty trucks wrong place think this is the better place. Gauges pinned to right with key off
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I replaced the head gaskets on a 2006 F250 6.0 Diesel, put it all back together and started it up. It ran great for a lil bit, then it started cutting out. It did this for about an hour then I killed it and it took a little bit to restart it, spinning over and over to get it to run, this took place several times. The engine died and now it will not start. I keep getting codes P2284 and P2290. What could be causing this problem??
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I own a 2004 F-250 Super Duty V10 truck. It's always ran and started great. I don't use it often so I make it a point to start and drive it around town twice a week. The other morning I went to start it and nothing. Engine will not turn over. Tried cranking with head lights on and they stay bright. It's an automatic and I tried going between park and neutral and still nothing. I can hear the little square relays in the fuse box clicking. Could the starter just have died? How are they to replace on these?
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03 F-250 5.4vStandard Transmission
Thought my battery was no good , so changed it. Didn't work it just kinda bumps the motor but doesn't turn over.
Thought it must be my starter then , bought a $200 starter and changed it , still doing the same thing. It did start after changing the starter but wont now.
Neutral safety switch?
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I went to start my 2006 F350 6.0 this morning. 20 degrees outside. It nearly turned over, then it appeared that the batteries would not support another start - a slowing of the pre-engine start revving....
So I let it sit a while, now it won't start at all. When I try to start it, the dashboard flashes, clicking sounds occur and even after pulling out the keys, the needles on the gauges shake for a few seconds.
Is this more a battery issue or an alternator issue?
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Motor cut out while driving. it restarted once then died. Wrench light came on.. checked DTC, it was P2291... motor ran again for a few seconds and has refused to start since. The Lift pump/ filter housing underneath the truck has a leak that was only noticed after it initially stopped running.
Fuel Filters were changed and weren't all that dirty when taken out a nice easy brown color, not to dark. Itried keying the lift pump to prime the engine but nada... cracked open the fuel filter in the engine bay and the bowl was DRY
Left the bowl open and primed the engine... i could hear gurgling but after 4 key on and offs no fuel ever made it to the bowl... i figured it would have made it by then... Put 5 gallons in the tank because it was showing low.
I can hear and feel the pump humming when i flip the key on.
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I have a 2008 f 250 super duty gas v10 i have never had problems with it start always starts right up and strong. After coming out of the story today I tried the remote start and it tried to turn for a couple seconds and stopped. I replaced the battery and starter and still nothing. i hear the relay when trying to start with both keys or remote start but nothing from the starter all lights are working .
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Having problems with a slow drain on batteries? My truck wouldn't start after sitting for 5 days.
After recharging and starting it up once, I pulled the key, and disconnected the battery harness and checked for current on all the red wires in the harness. Only one drew current. I found the small red wire on the drivers side initially draws 470mA for 1 minute, then draws 22mA. In my experience in mobile audio, 22mA can drain a battery over several days.
Has anyone out there checked their 'dark current' draw? I have chased it all over and checked all the aftermarket add-ons and it comes down to something in the factory dash.
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I've been having an intermittent stall-out problem with my 2003 F250 5.4L (160k miles). The truck has been retired from DD to farm duty, hauling, and towing only. Over the past 9 months, the truck has stalled-out on me 3x while driving. I will be driving along sometimes at highway speed, sometime slower, and everything will die: no PS, lights go on all over the dashboard. It will not restart right away. I have to wait at least 20-30min to restart it and then everything is fine for several weeks and hundreds of miles.
There are no codes and I have been unable for reproduce it/cause it to happen purposely. My mechanic has changed the Crankshaft Position Sensor, and checked the fuel rail pressures. I also checked all the harnesses and fuses, cleaned the battery terminals, looked for vacuum leaks, and gave it a good look-over. The following are new: battery, IAC valve, fuel filter. After searching the forum I also pulled the fuse box and examined the integral fuel pump relay: it and the board looked perfect, no bulges, cracks, discoloration, etc.
My mechanic thinks this is more likely an ignition problem than a fuel delivery problem.
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So a truck that was running fine Sat for 2 weeks. Battery died so i sent some coworkers to jump it. They tried using a welder which they didn't get turned down enough. Now the wiper motor stays on even without the key. Radio doesn't work but the dash light still comes on. With a new battery installed it turns over but doesn't start. I know something had to get fried but where to start. Thinking about replacing all fuses and relays...
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I just installed a new positive cable set for the dual battery's and the starter checks out good.
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1999 F250 SD Ex 4x4 V10 has been intermittently not starting, both cold and warm, began last fall but only happened once a month or so or longer. Would then start after trying again either right away or after waiting a bit. Now it is doing it on a regular basis. Sometimes it will start right away, sometimes won't but if you keep trying or wait awhile it starts, sometimes using the extra key will start it right away after the first one didn't, sometimes neither one. It does not try to turn over, make any noises, no warning lights flashing, just won't start.
Now also on two occasions within the past week, it just stopped while driving. Radio, dash lights, etc., stayed on. I got it to the side of the road with the little power steering left where it started up again right away.
No codes showed up. First mechanic couldn't find anything obvious or replicate problem. Changed air and fuel filters (fuel filter really needed changed), plugs. Got truck back and it wouldn't start next morning. He checked it again and got a code related to ignition, tried the spare key and it started up. Truck back home, next day same problem.
Mechanic 2 checked, no codes, kept several days but, of course, couldn't replicate problem. I'm not even sure what all they checked, used to be an excellent repair place but now they seem to only really on diagnostics and throw up their hands, very disappointing. Replaced solenoid and starter last year myself. Otherwise, have had no problems until this.
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I have a 01 F550 Super Duty with a dynamic wheel lift system. One of my drivers was driving the truck when it just stopped running. I can't figure out what's happened. I think I have checked everything and yet it just turns over but won't start...
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While driving up hill at 60mph the truck lost power. Rpm jumped up as to change gears as it hit 55mph. Still losing power until it shut off. I tried to restart and just got a click from the solenoid. No engine codes whatsoever. Battery had 12.1 volts but when turning the key to start in getting 8 volts. Had it towed home. Today I swapped batteries with my other truck and same click noise from solenoid. All lights, radio, ect still work. Where should I start? Alternator, fuses...?? 2008 f250 5.4 ...
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