Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: F250 - Emergency Brake Cable Broken?
Apr 21, 2015
1999 F-250 ... How does one replace the emergency brake cable? The cable in the '99 F-250 I recently bought broke.
The cable was sticking when I got the truck. I like to use the emergency brake every time I park. The previous owner(s) didn't use the emergency brake and the cable had frozen up.
I tried using it every time I parked. I could tell it was frozen, but I was hoping it would loosen up. It held a little bit when I used it; but soon it just broke.
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I'm re-doing the parking brake as part of a rear brake job on my 2009 F250. I need to disconnect the intermediate brake cable at the equalizer, but am having trouble. I've got slack in the cable, but can't push hard enough to get the swaged cable end to move within the connector that's between the equalizer cable and the intermediate cable.
Is there a special tool or some trick to this? If push comes to shove, I can cut the connector (assuming I can get a replacement), but would rather not.
Also, any particular trick to disconnecting the cable to the parking brake lever at the wheel? With that huge spring between the cable bracket and the end of the lever, I haven't been able to move the cable end enough to disconnect it from the lever. Since I don't have the intermediate cable disconnected, could that have something to do with it?
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I broke my emergency brake cable on my 2000 chevy silverado. It broke before the cable splits to two wires to go to the two rear tires. I would like to know if this is something I can handle myself. My biggest question is how I get access where the wire attaches to the pedal itself.
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I have a 99 f-350 , which i bought recently and either the calibers are froze up in the rear or the cable looks too tight.. Is there any adjustment.... Every place i looked it seems to be none..... on my old 1988. Icould adjust it where the 2 rear cables joined the 1.... Am I missing something or cut the 1 main cable and add a turn buckle....
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How to replace the parking brake cable from the pedal down to the connector on the frame? We got a 2000 F350 in the shop with a bad cable, and i never did one. And I don't really want to mess this thing up trying to figure out how to change it.
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I'm working on an '05 F350 King Ranch dually, and I'm pretty sure the pb cable is stretched. I recently replaced the shoes in the pb assembly and adjusted the tension while I was in there, but it still barely holds. My next culprit sounds like a stretched cable, and I have a complete set for a new one, but I'm having a hell of a time getting the old one out. The link that holds the front and intermediate cables together won't pry open with any tool I have, and I've broken two drill bits trying to drill out the nub holding the front cable in.
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I have a 2006 F250 Super, CrewCab 4 dr, 6.0 w/60K. Last month I tried the rear power window and .......nothing.
It tried to open 1/2 inch and then stopped, had to try to power it closed and it moved 1/4 inch and I pushed it the rest. Removed the rear cover behind the seats and I can see the motor and wires attempting to move but it does not move and I am afraid to burn the motor out or push too hard and break a cable or worse.
The track looks really dirty, I use that window maybe once every 2 months.
1. Can I replace the motor myself?
2. Can I put something in the track to clean/lubricate?
3. Should I try to open the window under power and some additional manual pushing?
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The problem is I haven't seen one for a recent (2011+) SD. I don't see anything that resembles a rear drum. They look like 2 huge regular disc brakes.
I live on a hill. My old man taught me to put the trans in neutral, autos and manuals, put the ebrake on and make sure it holds the vehicle, then put the trans into park or 1st gear. This way the weight of the vehicle doesn't rest on the transmission.
How do I adjust the Ebrake? It's ALMOST holding the truck, just needs a minor tweak. I don't see the dust cover the write ups described at all. The one that reveals the Star Wheel. Are they different on these years then prior SD's?
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I have an 04 F250 with no brake lights. However the third brake light works. I've also noticed that my trailer brake lights don't work either. I do have all my turn signals and running lights. Another issue that could be connected is I have one out of four hazard lights. When I push in the hazards my front passenger blinker works but none of the others. Could this all be due to a relay switch?
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My 1999 F250 right rear brake caliper will not release. I replaced the caliper, caliper mounting hardware, pads, rotor, emergency brake pads, and I bled the system. For some reason the right rear remains activated when my foot is not on the brake pedal. The other three wheels appear to be functioning normal.
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The brake light stays on all the time. It started 5+ years ago going out intermittently, then began going out more frequently for longer as the years went by, until now, where it stays on continuously (except for one small miracle where it cam back on during a short drive around town). I don't normally care if it stays on, but for the first time in 7 years I'm going on a long road trip and can not engage cruise control with the light on.
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Bought an 04' F250, looked good but definitely not well maintained. Have replaced tranny temp sensor, thermostat, fuel filters, air filter.... Etc. heads have been redone and new studs installed , Egr delete, new oil cooler, flushed cooling system. Now tonight coming home noticed the brake lights aren't working, all 3 are out... fuses are good. I've heard multifunction switch or brake switch.....
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The third brake light (on cab) went out and I can't seem to find which bulb to get to replace it. Are they the same as the 2 Taillight bulbs on the bed?
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I am looking at a 2014 f250, if has all of the options I want on a truck except the brake controller. Can a brake controller be added to this vehicle ? is it already wired for and do you just remove the blank plastic and pop in ? one ?
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I plan on replacing the brake lines on our 1999 Ford F-250 Super Duty. The rear line blew out right by the hose, on the framerail. All five lines, all five hoses. What size lines? Looks like front two are 3/16", rear two over the axle are 3/16", and the rear line in the frame is 1/4".
We are removing the bed (2013 bed) to make things easier. I am thinking fuel lines and parking brake cable while the bed is off. I have stainless steel hoses from KLM performance and I am also planning on replacing the rear rubber hoses. Obviously I'm using nickel copper line. There shouldn't even be an option for other brake line.
[URL].....
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Bought a 2001 F450 a couple of weeks ago. No problems until today. It's always made a strange sound, almost like a low air buzzer on a truck with air brakes whenever the emergency flasher is on.
Today the flashers quit working, but the buzzing sound still comes on when the switch is pressed. Turn & brake lamps still working fine. The truck is always hooked to a trailer, but behavior is the same whether trailer is plugged in or not. Now and then the flashers will activate for a couple of seconds and then right back off.
Also, I have an Aeroforce Interceptor gauge that plugs into the OBD II port. It works just fine until I hit the flasher button. Then the screen will fade in & out. At a loss to explain this one.
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How do I adjust the parking brake on my 08 F250? It's not holding when my truck is parked on a hill.
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My question is pretty simple: on my 2016 F250 psd 6.7 I am towing my trailer, using tow/haul mode and I have the engine exhaust brake button pushed.
Suppose I begin going down a long, downhill grade and I want to hold, say 55 mph. How do I actually activate the engine exhaust brake (like they show in this Ford video) to hold me at that speed all the way down?
I tried working slowly up to my desired speed and then tapping the brakes a few times for it to kick in, but it didn't hold me. I also tried tapping and then riding the brakes for 2-4 secs to see if it would kick in, but it did not. To be clear: I *am* in Tow/Haul mode and the engine exhaust brake icons are both lit up in the dash.
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The other day I got in my truck and started down the driveway when I realized I had no brakes, I slowly backed up and parked it. I haven't driven the truck for approx. 2 weeks and it seemed fine then. The master cylinder is full, there are no signs of leakage from wheel cylinders or lines. Today I unscrewed the left front zert and no fluid came out. My pedal goes all the way to the floor.... Whats going on, and if its a easy fix?
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I am a few DAYS into a project changing my ball joints on my 2001 F250SD 4wd.
Latest issue is I can't get the brakes back on. One of the pistons was pressed out making replacing the calipers onto the rotor impossible. Fiddling with things has only made it worse.
The higher piston is stuck extended, and the other piston doesn't even budge.
The truck is our only vehicle, and I have been working on it since Tuesday night. It looked like it was going to be done today, but I can't put it all back together now.
That piston will not move. I've tried opening the bleeder and taking a clamp to it but all I get it a few more drops of fluid, no visible movement.
A while ago it looked like this. I got it to move in a little, but it is firmly stuck.
I'm wondering if I can pull it all the way out and clean/sand polish it. Can I use a quick-clamp on the rubber section of brake line to isolate the calipers so I can pull the piston out without draining all the brake fluid from higher in the system? And what do I do about the other piston that doesn't seem to be moving at all? Grab with big pliers and twist/pull?
Some of us just have a knack for finding layer upon layer of problems on projects...
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I don't know whats up with my new truck, its a 04 f250 scsb, 4x4, 5.4l with 61k orig miles on it. Truck will stop on a dime, has NO pedal sinking, but it takes about 3/4 of the pedals travel to apply pressure to the pads and have the truck stop, sometimes if I push the pedal down then let up and push it again the pedal wont travel as far, I just flushed the system today, no air in the lines, is there a bleeder on the abs? truck has 4 wheel abs...
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