Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: Groaning / Growling Noise Barely Audible
Nov 15, 2009
I have a 04 F250 4x4. This growling noise has been driving me nuts. Its barely audible, but its there. Brought it to the dealer for service a few weeks ago, they said I had a bad front hub bearing. So I got the truck back, ordered a hub bearing, and last weekend jacked the truck up to see whats going on. Spun both front wheels, no noise whatsoever. Checked for up/down play and side/side play, nothing. So I held off on installing the hub bearing.
The noise is really more noticeable when going down the road and when you hit dips in the road. Kinda where the bounce puts more force/weight on the front end, the growling gets louder. The truck has 74k miles on it. Its there whether the hubs are locked or unlocked. Could I still have a bad hub bearing even though the wheel spins free and quiet, and no play???
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I have an 06 f250 that is making a growling noise that is speed sensitive and sounds like it might be coming from the front. I thought it was tire noise from my old worn out tires but with new tires it still maks noise, but tires have pretty rough tread. How can I tell if it could be a wheel bearing? It seems like the noise quiets down a little on right turns. It is kind of a growling humming noise that changes with speed.
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Dealer says groaning noise at start up, when I let my foot off brake at a stand still is normal,worse if i turn steering wheel with brake on.
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The parking brake audible warning is going off along with the parking brake light. I tried disengaging the brake multiple times and it went off once, however now it will not go off. I found some older pictures of a switch on the arm that swings with your foot when you engage the brake, but I can't find it on my 2004.
Is there a switch down there that needs to be kicked, contacts cleaned or replaced? I checked the fluid level and vacuum hoses and do not see anything obvious.
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2003 F250SD 5.4 4x4... When I recently heard a growling coming from my front end. I read some great posts on here about the whole front end tear down. Replaced all my ball joints, universals, wheel bearing hub units, locking hubs.....
So yesterday i came home from work, about 30 minutes later i hit the key on the truck and it wouldn't start. Kinda sounded like it wanted to but was starving for fuel. SO i grabbed the fuel pressure gauge and did a quick check......and No fuel pressure at all. Checked the fuse, Couldn't find a Relay in the fuse panel (Is there one for the fuel pump??). Anyway 4 hrs later the trucks starts right up like nothing is wrong.
Go figure, I'm 2 days away from my last payment ...now everything has to be going wrong.... Do these fuel pumps act up like that ??
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Troubleshooting on my wonderful transmission. I have a 2000 F-250 CC Lariat with the V-10. When I start the truck, I hear a high pitch noise. It's like a high pitch whine. It changes frequency as you rev the engine in park. Put the transmission into gear. Either forward or reverse, and the noise is lower pitch. As you accelerate, the noise will change frequency. If the tranny is manually shifted, the noise will go away, and then come back a short time later. The noise is audible while driving especially in third and OD. The truck has 93,000 and is dead reliable except for this. I have been under the truck, and I can tell it's coming from the tranny. Not sure if it's the converter or what.
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My 2000 f250 4x4 V10 5spd manual with LSD and 63k mi gets an intermittent but very strong vibration like a shuddering, growling, rumbling in 2WD. The 1st time it only lasted about 1 second. It had been making a swooshing noise that sounded like front left wheel bearing for several thousand miles before this, so i replaced bearing assembly even though it turned smoothly.
After that, It still made the exact same swooshing noise and after a couple miles at 45mph, it had the strong vibration/shudder that lasted about 3 seconds. I stopped and locked the hubs manually. The vibration happened again in a couple miles, so seems like it's not the needle bearings in front stub shafts or locking hubs. On that last occurrence, the vibe went on for 5 seconds, felt the same with clutch in, and went away only after truck slowed down to nearly a stop. I've driven it about 6 mi total since the 1st occurrence.
Front right Wheel bearings feel smooth. I unbolted the driveshaft support bearing and it spins smoothly. The front u-joint maybe had a tiny bit of play, all bolts tight. I didn't check the nuts for yokes, but it didn't look like yokes had any play. Drive shaft slip joint moves smoothly. No up-down play at pinion shaft input into rear diff and output from transfer case. Rear diff oil was full with a little bit of silvery sludge on the magnetic filler plug, maybe 1/10 of a cc, no metals slivers or chunks. I raised the rear wheels and ran 5th gear 2WD at idle (~30mph) and touched a 4' listening stick to the drivetrain components.
The only odd sounds were from the rear differential. It sounded like a bad bearing with random crunches and thuds mixed in with the normal whirring. Crunches and thuds were loudest at front of diff housing. I blocked one wheel and repeated in 3rd gear. You could hear noise like gears meshing (noisy spider gears? maybe was LSD clutches?). The differential was warm after 5-10 minutes, with the hottest area being about 3" from the front of diff, just before the housing widens.
So, I'm guessing the pinion bearing is bad and the intermittent shudder is the bearing race spinning in the case when bearing seizes.
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Today was the first time I have locked my wheel hubs in and used 4 wheel drive. However when I did all this i noticed that when I turn there is a growling sound but only when turning. It does not make the sound when unlocked and in 2 wheel drive.
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I have a 2013 F350 DRW, 3.73 gears LS. 25K on the thing.
Today I notice that when I turn a corner I get a groan. At first I thought that maybe the springs are doing it. I sprayed them down really good with fluid film. No change.
So I had my daughter drive the truck with me standing on the rear bumper. It is definitely in the rear end. It is quiet when in a straight line.
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I have a 2003 F250 with the 5.4 and I believe I am having a fuel delivery issue. I took out yesterday and stopped to get a drink at the gas station, came back out and the truck wouldn't start long enough to idle. It would start, barely bounce off zero rpms and die out. I checked the fuel interia switch and it was down. I tried turning the key back and forth thinking it might reset the fuel pump or something and that didnt work. I get the truck towed home and couldn't get it to start last night. I go out this morning and it starts, come home from work and now it won't. This happened about 2 years ago and I never did anything about it, but it took 2 years for it to happen again.
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I have a 96 f350 that I just replaced the batteries on and now when I go to start it does not hardly turn over. Starter just barely turns motor over and definitely not fast enough to start truck. Battery connections are tight and starter was replaced about 4 months ago.
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On my 2002 7.3 liter for the last about 1 week it has been getting harder and harder to start. Up until yesterday when it will not start at all. What it does is this. A week ago I noticed it cranked slightly weaker but still ran perfect once started. This has progressed slowly but definitely. It has never gotten better, only worse. Even with jumper cables hooked up it does not improve at all. The starter is a Carquest POS but only has 50 thousand miles on it.
I have driven hundreds of miles with this problem in the last week and the truck has never skipped a beat aside from the starting issue. I took the batteries in to no less than 3 places and they all said the batteries are good. However when I put my multimeter on them when it is being cranked the volts drop from 12.6is down to about 8 volts. When I did get it started the other day and put a meter on it the batteries were charging up to around 13.7 or so.
When there is no load on batteries they show good but have been unable to get a solid answer if any of these places are load testing them: I am convinced they are not. I checked the resistance of the cables and they all have none. The grounds are all good. So I pulled the starter and took it in as a last result. They say the starter is good also! The connections were all tight and I cleaned them all very well.
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So the other day i opened the door and heard a super loud clunk noise come from the door and when I turned the car on and pulled hte window down it wouldn't go down all the way, only about 75% of the way so I assumed like BMW cars the window motor died but oddly it continued to go up and down just now 100% down.
Then 3 days later when I came to drive the car again the window went down to the 75% mark and now its jammed there with no movement even if I tried to lift the window up myself. Usually a broken motor allows this to happen but since it isn't budging I am wondering if its an electrical issue with the power window button more than the motor?
I say this because when i try to lower the passenger window from the driver side it works than out of no where on the 3rd time it wont move at all than 5 minutes later it will move or if it doesn't move I just go and pull the window down from the passenger side then I come to the driver side and try it and it works again than it'll stop again. So maybe its the power window control buttons on the drivers side that's failing?
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So my 2010 has been bulletproof thus far. Now the last few weeks I've been working on a new property and using 4x4 a lot and driving in deep/wet grass.
This noise happens only when cold and only at low rpm. In/out of gear moving stopped doesn't matter. Tried to take it to dealer and it was warmed up by then and not doing it! So ill take em this video and leave the truck there for a couple hours and see if they can duplicate it.
Any guesses what this is? [URL] ..... And why I've been distracted off my truck!
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I have a 2000 F250SD 4x4 that has developed a nasty front end noise. I originally thought it was a suspension issue (seems like bumps in the road cause the noise but not always, turning does not cause it) but everything seems good. Steering is tight and there is no 3 and 9 oclock movement. Ball joints also seem good with no 12 and 6 movement. I have jumped up and down of the front bumper and cant recreate the noise either, removed the sway bar and the noise is still there. The only strange thing I notice was that with the truck in 2wheeldrive and the hubs unlocked I can turn the front drive shaft and the drive's side axle spins but the passenger side only turns intermittently. I'm sure this isn't right so I'm looking for diagnosing the cause. Since none of these parts should be moving while driving in 2wheeldrive could this also be the cause of the noise?
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I have a 99 F-250 SD 4X4 7.3 with about 160,000 miles and still running strong. I haven't been able to troubleshoot a strange clicking noise during the Glow plug / pre start warm-up process. It seems like the noise is coming from a vacuum "relay/ actuator" ( I think that's what the part is) under the hood on the passenger's side. But again I am not a Ford mechanic, nor have I owned this complex of a truck before.
There seem to be two different vacuum terminals that both have two outlets that attach to vacuum hosing. The unit does not have a line ( or 2 ) connected to the innermost vacuum outlet. Does this need to be connected? If I put my fingers on the units outlets to restrict the noise becomes more high-pitched, then will cease to make the clicking sound sooner than if I didn't cover the outlets.
I'm unsure on the process on how to insert a photo. it's asking for a URL, does this mean I need a flickr photo account to transfer the photo? Can I just upload a JPG?
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1999 f250 super Duty V10... I am having some problems with switching out of four wheel drive. S, when I flip the switch back to 2 wheel drive everything, seems ok at first, but within a mile or two I will hear this grinding coming from the front that sounds like the gears aren't completely disengaging. The inky thing that prevents this grinding from happening is switching back into fire wheel drive and keeping it there. What might be causing it to not stay disengaged ?
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I have a 2003 6.0l did a rebuild on it. Got it all back together runs ok, but the turbo is making noise. I can unplug the actuator and the noise stops. How can I check the actuator. now the noise is of course when it is running.. but unplugged the noise stops.
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Before I climb on the ground and go over the front (there is snow on the ground and I am still like 26 days from owning my first home and having a garage FINALLY.) Very recently the truck started to make a little low pop noise and you can feel it in the steering wheel a little bit, when I turn sharply, almost to the stop by not completely and it will start. Not dumb when it comes to vehicles, but new to these trucks so always good to ask for common problems first!
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Whats the clicking noise going on behind my dashboard? It's constant even with everything shut off in my'02 F350. The truck has been laid up for three years and I'm getting it ready to move...
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On my 2007 f250 ext cab long bed when I got home tonight and parked it in the driveway I noticed a cracking or tapping noise coming from the right rear of the truck around the hub area. I bought the truck about a month ago from a ford dealer. The truck has 111k on it and runs pretty good. I have also noticed when I back the truck up a short distance and then put it drive and start to go forward that there is a slight popping noise coming from the rear end. I have had the carrier bearing checked and dealer says its good. What this might be. Could it be a sticky brake caliper?
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