Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: Locked Up Clutch?
Sep 13, 2015
I was driving to work this morning and my hydraulic clutch linkage messed up on the 1999 f-250 super duty 7.3 with zf 6 speed. It acted like any clutch master cylinder when they go out, the pedal went to the floor and the clutch would not release, but it also became very hard to shove in the clutch pedal, so I speed shifted it without the clutch and made it to work. So I figured no big deal I will swap out the clutch master and slave cylinder complete assembly in the parking lot, except I had to get a ride 30 miles to an auto parts store that had it in stock. I changed out the complete assembly and same problem with the new one, extremely hard clutch pedal, so I did not dare to push it anymore and risk damaging the new cylinders, and left the truck at work. I am thinking broken throw out bearing jammed into the clutch, or dislocated throw out arm causing the problem. The clutch disc, pressure plate and single mass flywheel were replaced by the previous owner 3 years and 15,000 miles ago.
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2011 F-250 King Ranch, bought new, 59,995 miles. Dealer Serviced, always. ESP to 100K.
Took it in for an oil change, running perfect. Jan 4.
Service writer comes and gets me after 2 hours. "Engine locked up after they went to start it after oil change."
They are getting a remanufactured long block from Ford.
I am still in shock.....
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Its a 2016 F-250, 6.2L gas truck with the electronic shift on the fly transfer case.
I have put right at 22,000 miles on it like this, frequently at 70-80 mph.
What are the odds I have damaged it and is there anything I should do now that I discovered it - other than put them both in "AUTO".
Truck has been to the dealer twice and not once was this noticed. They blamed the squealing on the brakes which I knew it wasn't.
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Radio locked up. Dealer says $800 to replace which seems way out of line to me. Are there any aftermarket solutions that retain the Bluetooth phone integration and don't look gawdy once installed?
My radio has the CD player, a digital display and steering wheel controls but no large screen or touchscreen for mapping or backup camera or anything like that.
Or if there is no good aftermarket solution perhaps I would be better off replacing it with a higher end Ford radio with inputs for a backup camera, etc?
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About a year ago, I had my right rear brake caliper lock up on my F350 dually. The shop said it can happen and replaced both rear calipers. Last week I started to hear something from the rear and within less than a a few days, before I could get to a shop the noise increased and when I looked the rotor had been gouged on the right rear.
I cannot see the left rear rotor to compare as the wheels don't line up on that side to see through. So my question is this. Could it be the caliper failure was a symptom and not the cause. Maybe a proportion valve or something that could affect the pressure on that one wheel.
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The steering wheel is locked on my 99 F-350. I messed around with the stupid thing for quite a while this evening and it won't budge! I need it to haul hay tomorrow....
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Well long story short, I had the the factory hubs in my 04 f-350 and I was driving down the road and it started making this horrible popping noise. So I pulled over and couldn't find anything and just curiosity locked in the hubs and all was fine. Made me think my hubs were bad, so I went and bought the warren premium hubs, installed them. Went for a drive and still the same noise is there when they are in free spin. But once they are locked in its fine. What this could be? Wheel bearings?
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2004 F350 150,000km ... I have a rattling/clicking sound from the front right wheel when the hub is not locked (Free) and I hit small holes or run over rough roads. the sound is gone when I lock the hub front hubs.
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I just bought a 95 f250 4x4 with the 460. The guy i bought it from had a trans slipping towed it to the shop when the shop went to pull it in they started it put in gear and engine died. The motor is now tight w no movement either direction with a bar obo it. Is it possible the trans is holding the motor tight? What can I do?
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Yesterday while traveling about 30mph and starting into a slight left turn the steering wheel locked, when the brake pedal was applied it was rock hard and would not engage braking resulting in a single vehicle crash, no injuries. 8300 miles...
How would I make Ford aware of this incident and get them involved? Is it likely that such events may have been logged somehow in the computer? The truck is at our collision repair shop waiting for an insurance adjuster to inspect.
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We have a 2009 F350 that the engine is now locked up. Anyhow my question is can a 2001 Triton V10 interchange with what was a 2009 Triton V10 both 6.8L...
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My brother is having a issue with his 99 F350 diesel 7.3 automatic tranny pu. When in manual 1rst gear the engine stumbles and runs like crap. In drive or 2nd gear it runs fine. He's getting a code for a bad cam sensor. A new OEM and aftermarket sensor has been tried with no solution to the engine problem. What might be going on? Maybe a bad ECM.
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But on my 2000 SD V10 the hubs are worn I just cant find which way to turn them to auto ?
I'm getting popping and such so I think I'm locked while turning.
Also.... IS there a way to check the COPS with a multimeter? I think I got a bad one.
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Had to make a sharp circular turn last night in a parking lot, with the steering turned to full-lock...noticed a very audible clunking or clicking noise during the turn...went away after full-lock turning was released. My hubs are locked in...but I was told there was no issue with leaving them locked in, even during the summer. And there shouldn't be...4x4 disengaged, of course. Must have been the u-joints clicking / clunking? Problem?
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Just got done with a ball joint replacement on my 2003 F550, everything went together great, just as it should. Until I got to the drivers side hub lock.
I have Mile Marker 449s/s manual hubs. Turn from free to lock and theres this loud clicking sound about halfway to LOCK (passenger side doesn't do this). Hub will stay locked for about 2 rotations, then it unlocks and makes a clicking sound. You cannot turn the hub back to FREE, it gets halfway and stops. I tried forcing it and broke the spring fingers inside. Have a new set on order.
Is this a locking hub issue or an assembly error? I was going to take these steps.
- Take passenger side hub lock off and see if it operates normally or same on drivers side.
- If same, remove axle and re-seat/re-assemble everything again
Anything to specifically check? All the parts went back in, washers were in correct order, outer snap ring is in groove.
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2004 F250. Just got about 6 inches of snow. I use this truck to plow my private road. A few other residences on the road rely on my plowing.
I usually use 4WD Low and gear 2 on automatic transmission to plow. Hub manually locked. But today, when I shifted to 2, and pressed on the gas pedal. The truck was not engaging to drive, as if it were in park or neutral. And when I tried to shift to park, there is grinding noise and wouldn't allow me. I had to turn off the engine to be able to shift to park.
When I manually freed the hub and used 2WD High and gear D, I was able to drive the truck without problem.
Later, I tried using 4WD Low and gear D, and was able to drive a little distance before the truck no longer drives, and pressing on the gas is as if the truck was in park or neutral.
Previous to this earlier, I was driving down the private road to see how much snow we got. Without the plow on, I might have gone up to 10 or 15 mph, and still using 4WD Low and gear 2, maybe for 1/2 mile. Could I have damaged something by driving too fast in that setting?
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Ok so some one locked my hubs and put the truck in 4x4 4low i assume my aunt was driving it, truck wouldn't shift from 2 to 3rd is this normal since its in 4low. The shifter also seems pretty stiff and 4wheel isn't used much if there a way to know if 3rd gear toon a crap? Trans fluid seems fine not dirty or burnt...
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So I have a 99 F-350 XL, 6.8 2WD, got 268K on it and it's been a great truck, hasn't ever given problem until last June it killed out a PCM, hydrolocked the engine and sent a connecting rod out the oil pan, so I swapped the engine and replaced the PCM and everything has been great, everything that it's equipped with works great, it's a base model truck, used to be a uHaul box truck, and we got it with 239K on the clock.
Well fast forward from last June to this month and it killed out another PCM, so I got one out the JY with the same numbers and all on it, and it ran twice and killed that one too, and it's got me at wits end, since there's literally nothing that blows fuses or DOESN'T work, everything is perfect but it won't stop it's PCM habit. It's only killing them when it's switched on, to narrow things down.
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2008 F350 hubs wont stay locked in when in auto position. everything stays locked while in manual and 4x4 works fine, but in auto the hubs wont stay locked while spinning. I was trying to find the problem when i noticed that one hub stays locked all the time and the other locks and unlocks as it should but it wont stay locked while spinning. My question is do I have two bad hubs or is their a leak that wont let the hub stay locked? Also on the hub that wont unlock is this a leak problem as well or a internal problem?
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2005 f350srw 6.0 ps. If I stomp it for less than about 5 seconds no issues. Passing a car on a 2 lane or pulling a grade with the 5'r (longer sustained high boost over about 5 seconds) it will pull fine until normal driving recurs. Once normal driving recurs, converter locked 5th gear zero boost on accell. If I mash it to down shift it will stumble stumble stumble black smoke then finally boost fine. Let off same no boost issue. It seems to "reset" after about 4 miles/ 4 minutes. Sct canned tunes/ custom tunes don't make a diff. My dd is idp unlimited tow and 40 ficm tune. I cleaned ebp tube and sensor no change. Haven't tested sensor. I'm wondering if it's low fuel pressure related. Fixing to sell truck and want to fix this. Been going on for a year or so. Hasn't always been this way.
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Ok so I got a good deal on a used F350. When I got it home I found the heater was stuck on defrost. I posted on here a few weeks ago with questions on what could be wrong. From that post I learned that my front passenger side hub is stuck locked in. I pulled the vacuum lines at every connection from the pump on and had good vacuum all of the way to the passenger side hub. I turned the axle shafts and found the drivers side is free the passenger side is locked.
I flipped the dash switch and heard the drivers side hub lock. Then I turned the axles again and found they were in fact both locked in. I flipped the switch back to 2H and the drivers side freed and the passenger side was still stuck locked in. So I pulled the passenger side hub off of the truck and found it was seized up. I put it back together and locked both hubs in manually until payday when I can pick up a new hub.
Yesterday we had a lot of ice! Where I park the pickup the front wheels drop into a low spot. I could not get backed out of my driveway with the front wheels in the hole and the rear wheels on ice, so I flipped the switch to 4x4 and tried again. It still could not pull out, the front wheels didn't seem to engage. Now I am thinking I have more troubles than just the one hub stuck locked in.
So, my questions now are, 1 if the passenger side hub is bad but both are locked in it should still go into 4x4 correct? 2, the 4x4 light on the dash lights up when I flip the switch. If I had a bad switch or fuse would I still get the same result (light on and drivers side hub clicking in)? Does this pickup have to move a few feet before it engages the 4x4 or should it click right in? And finally what is a short explination of how the 4x4 system works. The dash switch engages the solenoid on the firewall to switch vacuum down to the hubs but what else does it do? I assume it has some kind of switch or motor in the transfer case that engages the 4 wheel drive?
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