Ford Transmission :: 1997 Expedition XLT Won't Stay In OD
Mar 23, 2014
Vehicle 97 Expy, 5.4 XLT 2x4, air leveling and tow pkg.
Situation: installed TransGo SK E40D spring kit to cure 1st to 2nd hard shift. It did the trick and shifts great up to a point.
Issue: Now after replacing the springs, any and I mean any added load (mild incline, lane change) while in OD it will downshift, won't shift up unless going down hill and I'm sucking gas. 1st-3rd is great, but it will not stay in OD to save its life.
I believe the cure is to reinstall the old OD springs, but I don't know which set that is in the accumulator body? I also could be wrong and it may be something else.
Update: found the instructions, need to know if the 4th Accumulator piston is OD?
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Specifically for a 2006 Expedition 4R75E . What the stall speed of the converter for this truck is supposed to be? The reason I ask is that the converter seems rather loose. At any point during acceleration the converter will allow the engine to rev up to 2500 RPM, depending on how hard I press the gas.
During normal (for me) acceleration the engine will come up to 2000-2200 rpm and just hover there through all 3 gear changes, then when the vehicle is up to speed and I let off the gas, the converter will lock and the rpms will settle down to something less than 2000 (assuming I'm not going over 75mph) if I press it a little harder, the rpms will come up to about 2500 and just hover there through all the gears, then lock when I let off. the only time a gear change will result in a lower rpm is if the engine is spinning over 2700(ish) rpm.
I'm not sure there is a problem, I'm just curious what the stall speed is supposed to be. if it is supposed to be a 2400 rpm converter, then the behavior makes sense, but if it is supposed to stall closer to 2000, then I'm thinking it might not be working as designed. I've tried to find this on my own, but I don't know where to look.
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I just found out there is no dip stick/fill tube for my 07 Expedition 6spd 6R. How to refill after service without using a flush machine. I also can't find any spec sheet on how much to refill or how to tell when it's full.
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I'm chasing a SES light on my mothers expedition. It had bank 1/2 lean and the 4 o2 sensor codes. So I put a fuel pressure gauge on it. At idle it fluctuated between 31-35 (rose and fell with a rough idle) as engine rise/falls. Rev it up to 15-1700 an pressure falls to 29-30, unplug the regulator and it pegs at 40 no matter idle-2000 rpm... does those numbers sound right?
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My 2006 expedition surges very slightly while cruising under very low throttle. Usually most noticeable at 60-65 mph with no headwind.
Took it in and had my mechanic check it out. He confirmed the slight surge and said it felt like the torque converter was locking and unlocking. No codes or pending codes were found related to the power train.
Abs light is on for a bad rear wheel speed sensor. Code for right rear. Checking the sensor showed 3 ohms for right, 5 ohms left ( left is less than a year old on a new wheel bearing.)
Initial thought was the bad sensor is giving bad input confusing the pcm/tcm. But the condition remains with the sensor unplugged.
Driving down the road watching the tach, it does appear that the converter is not staying locked. Condition goes away with more throttle. Motor runs smoothly otherwise with no indications of misfire. Plugs have 50k miles on them, as does the transmission fluid. Fluid is red and smells fine. Never gotten hotter than 210 by the gauge in the pressure port.
Why would it lock/unlock at very low throttle, but lock tight with more throttle? Tps flaking out? Throttle body motor getting twitchy? Can I pull my popup to the hills this weekend?
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My wife drives a 99 ford expedition, 5.4, auto, 4x4, Sunday I am driving it and it wont upshift from 1st to 2nd unless I let off the gas or let it run up to 4000rpm. I have cel and blinking OD off light. I pulled the code and got a p0755 shift solenoid b. That is really the only symptom, the other shifts seem fine.
1st question, which transmission do I have? I believe it to be the 4r100, the pan has a "notch" in it. Looks like this... Fel-Pro TOS18714 - Automatic Transmission Gasket | O'Reilly Auto Parts
2nd question, if it is the 4r100 is there just a solenoid "pack" and not individual solenoids to replace? I found these...PowerTorque- TE140 - Solenoid | O'Reilly Auto Parts
PowerTorque - TE141 - Solenoid | O'Reilly Auto Parts
3rd question, what is the difference between the pwm and non pwm?
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My power locks stopped working completely (remote or switch, lock or unlock.) I didn't have any problems with them until 2 days ago, after work it wouldn't unlock.
The fuse is good (#3 under hood fuse box), I can't find the relays, but since there are 3 of them I don't think they are the problem. I have power at the fuse and 2 wires going to the PDL switch, I also have ground to 2 wires going to the PDL switch. It's probably as simple as a broken wire or corroded connector, but I'd rather not pull the whole dash if I don't have to, but I need to fix it so I can open the rear hatch which is locked and its lock cylinder is gummed up so I can't use the key.
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Friend lost reverse and truck shakes at 35 and above seems like it needs a new transmission. What years are a match for this transmission and any other models trans match?
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1997 expedition 4.6 .... Figured its the same motor. I bought it for cheap with a bad miss fire not sure what cylinders just did a tune up. I forget but I think they were motorcraft spark plugs I put in. But after that it ran grate so I thought. It would be intermiten but would all of a sudden while accelerating get a boost of power. That would last untell its next shift point and would always happen around 2-2500 rpm. Kinda like VTEC in a honda. Or it gained 2 cylinders. And would also start stumbling while sitting at a stop light for two long with it in gear and break on only after its warm. Never happens when cold. I hooked up tourqe and saw when it does it its misfiring on 5-6-7-8 randomly. Its missing on cylinder 4 all the time now which I believe is a plug, wire, or water-antifreez in plug hole.
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Reverse works great....engine revs and barely pulls in drive. Not sure yet if it actually changes gears. I am planning on replacing tranny. I have a few questions :
1: Could it be something more simple like a selonoid or ???
2: What all trannys will fit? this is the 2wd 5.4 liter xlt ...
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Just made it back from out of state hunting trip,driving to get new tires. And heard a bump sound , Driving about 40 mph and tack jumped from around 1800 rpm to 4500. Engine' smooth and parameters good . However will drive in low and 2 nd gear approximate 25 mph. When select drive will not shift into high without slipping an rapid rpm increase. Currently 135k service record's and general appearance were well maintained....
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I have a ford f250 1997 with a 5. 4 triton engine in I bought a 02. 5.4. Out if a ford expedition he said it would fit but my mechanic is not sure . Would the engine out if the 02 fit in the 1997 and what would need to be done.
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I have a 97 expedition that i am having trouble with. It has front and back airconditioner. The compressor is short cycling real fast. Warm air in the front and cool air in the back. I put a can of freon in but still not cooling. The gauges are between 30 psi and 50 on the low side. The high side is between 100 and 150 psi. The ambient temp was 80 degrees.....
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91 F-150 4x4 with AOD. OD,D,1st gear. The truck will idle fine, but when I put it into gear it seems like it is locked in in either drive or reverse. Its hard to stop at lights or stop signs and boggs the engine down and has no low end power. When in neutral it is fine. I have replaced the torque converter with a new one, no change. I replaced the valve body with a constant pressure body as well and still no change. Is there anything else that could keep the thing locked up? The smaller inside overdrive shaft looked good and slid in and out easily. Is there any kind of solenoid in the AOD that would cause this or if vacuum has any role in this problem...
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It's a 1988 with a 3.0 engine and an automatic transmission. It doesn't want to shift. I can make it shift manually, but if I leave it in OD, it wants to stay in 1st gear . If you fiddle with the accelerator, you can get it to shift. Then it wants to stay in 2nd, and so on.
Like I said, if I use the gear selector to manually shift, it will go to all four gears just fine.
My thoughts are a vacuum leak (a big one) or a faulty vacuum modulator at the transmission. No, the vacuum line to it doesn't have tranny fluid in it, but I replaced it, and I wonder if it's bad. Yes, I made sure to put the little metal pin/link back in it.
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ran fine the day before, fuelled up that night, next morning it did this. cleaned the IAC, tried a different TPS, cleaned mass air flow sensor. check vacuum lines. put couple bottles of gas line anti freeze in.
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So, I know this question has been asked probably a million times. But I can't seem to find the exact information I need. I have a 2003 fx4 f-150 and just like everyone else. My 4x4 doesn't work. But, the deal with mine is that sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn't. It's a toss up. When it does go in however, it doesn't stay locked in. Sometimes it stays in for 10 seconds, sometimes 30 minutes. When the switch is turned to 4hi or 4low it doesn't always engage, only sometimes. Light on dash comes on every single time I matter what. Solenoids click as they should. Also, the a/c and heater was stuck in the vent only, recently went to defrost only.
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The headlights stay on all the time & wear the battery down. I've replaced the DRL module with two new modules & neither fixed the problem. I even examined the headlight switch (some burn up at the switch), but this headlight switch & wiring look new. I even took the headlight switch out & the headlights still stayed on. I made sure that the new modules were grounded to the chasis properly.
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Got a buddy with a 98 white f150 with the 5.4 motor. It will start up and idle fine but if you try to drive it it has no power what so ever. What it could be?
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I have a 2000 Regular Cab Work Truck with non power split bench seat. The passenger side back will not hook in the up position.
Before diving into it. Is the mechanism broken or is it something I can fix if I tear it apart? There is nothing stuck under or behind that I can tell.
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Have a 2001 F-150 with 4.6L. when i turn the key and pull it out the accessories stay on. What could be wrong and what can i do to fix so I don't have to keep disconnecting the battery?
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