Ford Transmission :: 4R100 - OD Light Blinking But Cannot Find A Code
Sep 8, 2015
I have a 1999 E-350 Van that has a 7.3 and 4R100 in it. The OD light has been blinking, but I can not read any codes. I have tried multiple scanners (Snap On Solus, AutoEnginuity software on laptop with the Ford enhanced package, just to name a couple), and none of them are coming up with any codes for the transmission.
I have a TS 6 position tuner and monitor on the motor, and while going up thru the gears, it appears that the transmission shifts from 1st to 2nd fine, and it feels fine. The 2nd to 3rd shift tho is another story. It seems that the transmission is going into 3rd and immediately locking the converter. Depending on which power setting it is on, it is violent enough to chirp the tires (while it sounds fun, it cant be good). It shifts into and holds overdrive fine.
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Truck : 2000 F250 XLT A/T 6.8L v10 4x4
Issue : O/D off light is flashing on the shift lever. In a drive gear (R, OD, D2, D1) there is very low power when giving it gas, more so from a stop. In P and N, I can rev the motor with no obvious issues. In O/D, I can't even get forward momentum going from a stop when on a slight incline. When on flat ground and in O/D, flooring the gas only gets me going a few MPH and RPMs don't go above 1500ish. When selecting 1st or 2nd, the truck still struggles a bit from a stop but does get up and going.
What happened leading up to the issue : I was on the freeway driving about 80MPH without cruise control se,t and with O/D on as usual, when the blinking O/D off light caught my attention. Not knowing at the time that this was a transmission problem light, I started pushing and holding on the O/D on/off button to try and get it to stop. Probably about a minute later, I realized I was losing speed even when giving more throttle so pulled over to the shoulder. I shut the truck off and restarted it, noted the Service Engine Soon light was now on, then I put it in O/D and gave it gas but only got going a couple MPH which it sounds like the engine was choking/struggling. I then tried D1 and D2 and, while still struggling a bit from stop, was able to accelerate up to 35+ MPH.
OBDII Codes:
P0743
Torque Converter
Clutch Solenoid
Circuit Electrical
P0750
Shift Solenoid A
P0755
Shift Solenoid B
P1747
Pressure Control
Solenoid A Short Circuit
P0443
EvaPorative Emission
System Purge Control
Valve Circuit
P0135
O2 Heater Circuit
(Bank 1. Sensor 1)
P0155
O2 Heater Circuit
(Bank 2. Sensor 1)
Troubleshooting : Transmission fluid check looks good (full and red)
Checked fuse 23 of the Central Junction Box
Held a ground wire to bottom of Transmission pan and to the frame while I started the truck, O/D light still flashing
Wiring looks good coming to the plug on the driver side of the transmission
More info:
- No "Service Engine Soon" or blinking O/D off light prior to all this happening.
- I don't believe I'm getting 1st gear. I don't recall if I got my speed up to 30+ MPH while in D1, but while in D2 I never noticed a shift from stop to ~35MPH. At 35MPH, my RPMs were around 2500 I believe.
- While cruising at 35MPH in D2, shifting to O/D results in lost power. I had to stay in D2 all the way home.
To do (I believe):
1. Check shift solenoids (looking for DIY info)
2. Check shift solenoid pack (looking for DIY info)
3. Check TCC solenoid (looking for for DIY info)
It sounds like there are a couple shift solenoids to check as well as a solenoid pack (how best to check these out, I'm still looking for)?
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My wife drives a 99 ford expedition, 5.4, auto, 4x4, Sunday I am driving it and it wont upshift from 1st to 2nd unless I let off the gas or let it run up to 4000rpm. I have cel and blinking OD off light. I pulled the code and got a p0755 shift solenoid b. That is really the only symptom, the other shifts seem fine.
1st question, which transmission do I have? I believe it to be the 4r100, the pan has a "notch" in it. Looks like this... Fel-Pro TOS18714 - Automatic Transmission Gasket | O'Reilly Auto Parts
2nd question, if it is the 4r100 is there just a solenoid "pack" and not individual solenoids to replace? I found these...PowerTorque- TE140 - Solenoid | O'Reilly Auto Parts
PowerTorque - TE141 - Solenoid | O'Reilly Auto Parts
3rd question, what is the difference between the pwm and non pwm?
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Took a 2 hour trip got of the interstate came to a stop light and the OD light starting blinking cut the truck off at the light fired it back up shifted in every gear like normal drove a little ways stopped at a light and OD started blinking again cut truck off back on light. Went away shifted great threw all the gears.
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I bought it 4 years ago with 205K, swapped trans fluid.. 10k miles later (I don't drive it a lot ). I am throwing the code P0750 Shift A malfunction.. i figured id swap the solenoid pack since I am pretty handy and it was affordable.. but it didn't seem to do the trick.. it drove around the block good for 5 minutes before it started shifting weird and throwing a code again.. almost seems to be slipping... I still have to check fluid level again and scan the code again but any suggestions? I have an apt to go to the tranny shop this week and would like to avoid the big bucks if possible.
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Girlfriends 04 escape airbag light is blinking code 37. Read something about it being on passenger side what do I look for? I just got done putting in 2 coils, 2 cats, egr, o2 sensor, intake gaskets upper and lower, PCV, injector orings all due to misfire sure there not connected just added info. Other problems include heated seat switch lights for a second then shuts off, and no cruise control. Need to get light off for inspection by end of month....
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I have an 04 Excursion v10 with 170K on odometer. I am having trouble with transmission shifting into 3rd. When I take off it shifts fine to 2nd, but it will not go into 3rd as it should. I can back off throttle and re accelerate a couple of times and then it will shift fine all day long. The OD light is not blinking but I did scan for codes and there is a soft code P1741 - there is no light on dash illuminated. Just wondering if this sounds like a valve body problem or shift solenoid. I am out of town and can't ohm test solenoids til I get home.
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Looking to see how to repair my blinking light. Code reads a 27, most what I've read says it's a PAD light, which this truck does not have. It has been in an accident, both airbags deployed. Since then both seat belts & bags have been replaced, nothing else.
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I've got a 1992 Ford Ranger 2.3L with about 240,000 miles on it. The check engine light started blinking on and off pretty regularly so I pulled the OBD1 continuous memory codes and came up with this.
327 - EVP/EPT circuit below minimum voltage
328 - EGR closed valve voltage lower than expected
334 - EGR closed valve voltage high
I can't say these codes mean a whole lot to me besides I've got issues with my EGR valve and possibly the EGR valve position sensor. I was thinking I'd start by replacing the EGR valve.
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My 4R100 transmission just went out in my 2001 X with a 6.8 Triton in it. I am wondering if a transmission from a 5.4 is the same exact thing since it is more common.
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I have 2001 E350 Van. One quirk.... When I put the van in Reverse, the engine drops to very low RPM and nearly stalls. This does not happen in Drive.
Transmission is out for repair now for other reasons (for a damaged pump). What can cause this near stalling? What do I look for as far as cause & repair?
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I rebuilt my 4r100 myself. 1st time I re-installed it, I had no 2nd gear. All other gears worked fine. Drove it less than 2 miles.. slowly..
Took it back out, found i built the Intermediate Clutch wrong. Fixed. At the same time, found a stuck valve in the accumulator VB, Fixed that, at least i think I did. all the valves snapped back under spring pressure.
Put the trans back in, Drove forward, all forward gears work. Drove 10 miles normally, w/ some time spent in all speed ranges. Temps good, outside temp was 73F
M1 = i get good engagement and engine braking
M2 = I get 1st and 2nd, seems normal
OD = Normal shifts, 4th is a little soft, but always was.. TCC lockup good
OD (Cancelled) = Normal 1-2-3, with lockup in 3rd Worked the button multiple times, shifts down, and back up normally.
N = No movement, no creeping.. Normal.. as far as I can tell.
R = No reverse, or is binding in reverse, not sure. worse when up to temp.
P = Normal, no learching or creeping.. No stalling.
The OD light never blinked, so I don't think it is electronic..
Since M1 works and holds with engine braking. L/R clutch and seals are ok. Forward clutch is ok since i have ALL forward gears, No slipping that I can tell. no creeping in Neutral, so the clutches are not fried.. New fluid is still perfect. I'll have to re-pull the pan to see if there is anything on the magnet. I think it could be some stuck valves in the VB also.
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I am trying to install the pump back into my 4R100 after changing the seals in the pump. When I try to push the pump into its location in the transmission, it will not go in all the way. It is about 3/8" out too far. Shouldn't it bottom out where the paper gasket goes at the rear of the pump without torquing down the bolts? When the pump is out, if I look at the coast clutch, it is not even level with the housing where the pump should bottom out to. It sticks up about 1/16". Add that together with the part of the pump assembly that sticks out in the back and I get about 3/8" total which is how much the whole pump assembly is from bottoming out. I took out the coast clutch assembly and did not see anything binding. It felt like it bottomed out where it should. It felt like it was seated correctly.
I don't want to just torque everything down and ruin something. Is the coast clutch supposed to compress some during assembly/installation of the pump? If so, would I expect it to compress about 3/8"? Also, I can turn the input shaft freely when the pump is out. Under 'normal' circumstances, if it was put together correctly, should I still be able to turn the input shaft by hand, or is there too much resistance with all of the clutches and everything?
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Vehicle is a 1996 Aero* XLT, 4.0 engine with 155000+ miles. I'm getting the P0500 code with the OD light blinking. Tranny is not shifting properly. Did not look at the speedo or check the cruise due to worry about making it to my driveway. I have had ocasion to set the cruise to 45MPH and at times it will drop out. I don't know the lower limit on the cruise. Is this speed sensor the same as the VSS...
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I just got this f350 6.0l and I experienced an electrical problem with the trans gauge, started flicking a lil then go all the way up to over hit and check gauge light go on and my tow light starts blinking..
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How to install a temperature gauge for the 4R100 transmission in my 1998E350 w/ V10 engine Van? what's the normal temperature for this transmission?
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A friend just bought a 99 Navigator, with what wikipedia says is the 4R100. Previous owner allegedly rebuilt the trans but used the old converter
It was apparently slipping a bit, or something, when he got it. Then on the way to my place so I can drive it and see what I think, it started making nasty grinding noises once he hit 4th gear. He got off the highway and made it to my place just fine.
Put it reverse to turn around in my driveway and it started the grinding noises again. Forward gears initially had some grinding as well after that, with no forward motion. Now there's no grinding, and the engine free revs in any forward/reverse gear
Fluid is full, still red, but smells nasty.
I don't suppose the three feed bolts above the valve body being loose would cause this? I imagine he's looking at a rebuild, which neither of us really want to do.
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I have a e99 7.3. had the transmission rebuilt a couple weeks ago by a local shop. have been getting some hard shifts between 2nd/3rd when lightly accelerating. Took it back already but they couldn't find anything. I am planning on taking it back again but what it is so it gets fixed right. What is causing this or what it might be? Should I be worried about having this shop try and fix this?
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Early 2000 F250
Originally the truck would not go into any forward gear, but had reverse all day long. So I had a rebuild kit ordered (new bushings, seals, frictions, steels, a washer and flat bearing kit, a sprak kit, and the od piston)
After rebuilding it, taking my sweet time double checking everything, it will now go into forward gear but not reverse. So I dropped the pan. The small 3 bolt plate was torqued to spec. When I got to the third bolt in the smaller section of the valve body (upper valve body) I heard a click like maybe a valve returned to its place but I'm not sure. I removed the valve body and accumulator and all the valves were free and had tension. When I had it apart the first time one valve stuck for a split second but I never could get it to stick again.
Finding nothing there I uninstalled the tranny and took the barrel apart all the way down to the L/R piston and could not find anything wrong.
After the build and me running the truck for about 10-20 min there was metal on the magnet (part of the reason I took it all back apart) however I could not find anything worn or chewed up. Could have been the tc I prefilled with 2 quarts in stead of filling all the way.
When I initially rebuilt the 4r100 I took apart the pump to replace the bushing and seal but did not take apart the valves. I've heard the pump is directly related to reverse but I'm not sure. Could something gone wrong in the pump when I took it apart? How would I know? If I new all parts of the reverse system I could then test them.
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I have a 2000 F350 7.3 with 308657 miles on it. After changing the trans fluid, filter and checking the center support bolts for proper torque I'm still having the same problem as before. When put in drive it doesn't seem to want to pull itself much until I throttle up to 1500rpm or so, then it grabs and goes. It acts similar in reverse but the rpms aren't as high. There was a coating of something inside the pan and on most of the parts along with the magnet being covered. What to look at to narrow down my problem?
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My buddy has a 2002 F350 CC Longbed with a 7.3. Last night the overdrive light started blinking. He said he drove it today and it takes about a mile or so for the light to come on but then it is a steady blinking. Truck has about 254K miles on it. He said other than the blinking light everything seems normal. How to figure out what this issue may be?
I got AE hooked up on his rig.
When I pull (ALL) codes this is what I get:
When I pull (Current) codes I get this:
I tried to clear the code and the light stopped blinking, but he said it started blinking again on the way home.
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