Ford Transmission :: Loud Grinding Noise When Put Truck In Reverse
Oct 5, 2013
Chasing down a grinding noise. I have done a lot of research but nothing quit matches up with what I am hearing.
I have a 1979 F250 4x4. A few days ago I put the truck in reverse and as I was backing up it was like the drivetrain locked up. After that I put the truck in gear and started on my way. As I got up in speed a pretty loud grinding noise was coming from the tranny. 2nd and 3rd gear aren't bad but when I get up to 40+mph it sounds like crap. If I push in the clutch the grinding is still there. While driving I also put the transfer case in neutral, kept the tranny in gear, pushed in the clutch and the grinding stopped.
I also took the lid off, inspected the forks and thoroughly cleaned the inside but noise still continues.
View 6 Replies
Advertisement
Today I was out getting lunch in my Ecoboost When it started making an extremely loud grinding noise from the front end of the truck. My first thought was I blew a turbo. After holding the break and building boost I discovered it was not the source of the noise. Also the truck runs perfect and there is no smoke. I then took it to my friends auto shop and pulled both front tires off to check and see if anything break related came loose. We found nothing. The noise only happens upon acceleration or cruising throttle, as soon as you let off the sound goes away. So after I found nothing I took it to ford and what would cause that, but they assured me that they would have my truck for a long time while they figure out the issue.
View 14 Replies
I have a 2005 Chevy Malibu, automatic transmission. When I put it in reverse and then press the gas pedal, I get a rather loud grinding noise for a couple of seconds. What is causing this, and is it doing any real damage? I have no other problems with the transmission.
View 2 Replies
I have a problem with my reverse in a 5 speed 105 hp Tdi. It jumps out of place when i try to move the car, makes a loud grinding noise and pops back in, I'm guessing the selectors are worn or maybe the teeth are too. My question is, how hard is it to replace the selectors (if it is the selectors that are worn of course), what is the cost of getting it done in the shop and most important does this sign mean I will have the same problems with the rest of the gear in nearby future?
View 2 Replies
I have had 2 transmissions brought to me, both complaining of no reverse. The first belongs to my nieghbor, its an 2005 F-150 4wd. He says last week it made a loud "POP" noise and reverse stopped working. This is a truck he uses for his work and its got 337K on it. A remanufactured transmission was installed at 70K.
The fluid in this transmission was very dark and dirty. I doubt it had been changed since the reman transmission was installed. Once I got the transmission apart, I found the reverse band was worn and broken. This is cast band, so it would make a rather loud "POP" when it breaks.
The sungear bushing was worn and grooved and scored the snout on the direct drum. The Over drive band was burned and pitted.
Since this is a remanfactured transmission the case is painted gray, the paint is blistering from heat. The torque converter has been so hot the paint blistered and the metal was rusting.
The sealing rings on the pump stator had cut mild grooves into the reverse drum and the snap ring that holds the intermediate one way clutch on the reverse drum was bent and about to fail.
The over drive servo snap ring was broken, which seems to be common on these trucks. The aftermarket replacement snap ring is hardened to resist breaking and is black in color
This transmission will be rebuilt with new gaskets, seals, clutches, both bands and reman torque converter. The overdrive band and low/reverse band will be upgraded with new bands that have a high carbon friction material, that will resist burning, installing a spiral snap ring and replacing the direct drum and sun gear.
The second transmission that lost reverse is from a 2006 F150 4wd. The owner of this truck removed the transmission himself and brought it to me. I am told the truck has a lift kit and larger tire. The residual fluid is clean and bright red. The owner has a drain plug installed in the pan, so I can assume the fluid is changed regularly.
Once I got the transmission part, the only damage I found was a broken reverse band. It appears this band has been broken for a while since 2 of the fingers on the band that would still engage were worn to the metal and and the friction material is burned. The band surface on planetary gear was slightly scored. Everything else in the transmission shows very little wear.
This transmission will be rebuilt with new gaskets, seals, clutches, both bands and reman torque converter. The overdrive band and low/reverse band will be upgraded with new bands that have a high carbon friction material, that will resist burning. Also installing a spiral locking ring on the intermediate one way clutch.
View 3 Replies
I bought a 1995 k2500 sheyenne. There is a rather loud high pitch grinding/ squeaking noise emitting from what I would say the rear right of the truck. I have completely replaced the brake shoes and new pins and springs. No luck. What I can say is:
1. It hardly gets any louder as I speed up.
2. Still screams when in neutral, as long as the truck is rolling.
3. Rear differential has plenty of fresh fluid when I bought it.
4. If i hit a good size bump, it will run quiet for about 15 seconds.
View 3 Replies
I just bought this camry recently, it's an 2008 SE 4-cylinder with about 95k on it. Everything is fine on the car with the exception of one thing. Whenever I start it after a prolonged period of it being off, say in the morning or sometimes even having it off for an hour and then starting it again, when I start it, a loud grinding/scrapping noise comes from the front of the car.
This noise lasts for a good 30-60 seconds and as the car picks up speed it disappears. It just happens whenever I start it. Now I'm not sure that if the brakes or jammed or is it something to do with the transmission. I mention the transmission because during the drive, the car seems under a lot of pressure as if towing a large trailer and has trouble accelerating. At times when going downhill, it actually is slowing down as opposed to picking up speed and as soon as I let off the gas the speed drop from significantly.
I know this isn't normal because I used to an 2005 Camry LE 4-cylinder. So I know how the engine and transmission behave.
I took it the dealer recommended mechanic and he said that everything is fine. He's a nincompoop really. I took it to my mechanic and he said that the axle and bearing need to be changed on the passenger side and just the axle on the drivers side. My mechanic is a family friend and is skilled in his trade so I know he's not trying to shaft me.
View 3 Replies
No codes, transmission makes a slight grinding noise when putting it into reverse only. Has a slight bump from 1st to 2nd. I flushed 16 quarts of the sp3 through it. Been researching and see a lot of talk about the output and input sensors. Not my car but my sisters. Needs axles, timing belt water pump, ps return hose, plus have champions in there and old ass hyundai wires.... thing does idle rough, motor mounts are new.
View 1 Replies
I am trying to track down where exactly a clunk is coming from on a 2003 Explorer 4x4(auto, hi, low). My buddy brought it by my house yesterday and i cannot pin point it. If you put the truck in reverse, once you hit the gas, it clunks pretty loud. If you just put it in reverse, let off the brake, it will not do it until you hit the gas.
I got the explorer up in the air and crawled under it. I had my buddy switch from forward to reverse, and back again. Every time he let off the brake in forward or reverse, it would clunk. The reverse clunk was definitely louder.
It does the clunks in all settings, -auto,hi,low. No flashing dash lights. The dash lights do come on accordingly. One thing he pointed out was the Auto,HI,Low Buttons themselves are not backlit anymore. Not sure if that has anything to do with it?
I cannot narrow it down as the whole transfer case, front driveshaft and front diff, shake with the clunk. U joints don't seem to have play (prying with small prybar). I then went ahead and unplugged the big wire connector at the transfer case and the clunk went away.
View 3 Replies
A friend just bought a 99 Navigator, with what wikipedia says is the 4R100. Previous owner allegedly rebuilt the trans but used the old converter
It was apparently slipping a bit, or something, when he got it. Then on the way to my place so I can drive it and see what I think, it started making nasty grinding noises once he hit 4th gear. He got off the highway and made it to my place just fine.
Put it reverse to turn around in my driveway and it started the grinding noises again. Forward gears initially had some grinding as well after that, with no forward motion. Now there's no grinding, and the engine free revs in any forward/reverse gear
Fluid is full, still red, but smells nasty.
I don't suppose the three feed bolts above the valve body being loose would cause this? I imagine he's looking at a rebuild, which neither of us really want to do.
View 6 Replies
I am not the sharpest tool in the box. I was driving my 1979 f250 with a full load of fire wood going about 45mph when I shifted it from drive to reverse (I thought I was in 1st) the truck mad a loud whining sound then refused to go on. Now when I shift it in gear it feels like it wants to move and if I revved up high it will rock back and forth. A friend jacked up the rear end with the wheels off the ground the tiers spun in all gears including park and I was told they could stop the wheels by hand with the car in drive. He then took the cover off the rear end and found it to be low on fluid but no signs of damage. What I broke?
View 9 Replies
My truck does not go into reverse but thinks all positions of shifter are drive. I had some slippage and changed the filter and oil great for awhile then blame no reverse just forward I was told my torque converter was out I just don't know....
View 1 Replies
The other day I was leaving my house. I started the car and heard a quick, loud chirp. That was the only noise it made so I continued to leave. I rolled out of my driveway and proceeded to put it in drive and found myself rolling backwards. I tried every forward shift, kicked on the 4x4 and continued to roll backwards. I thought reverse worked but found that it wasn't engaging either. My question: is there anything I can look at before resorting to taking it to the tranny shop? I'm in school for automotive and am confident in my abilities to test solenoids and maybe even dropping the valve body to check that. Other than that, I lack the skill to pull the tranny myself and work on it.
View 3 Replies
Just finished putting a fresh 460 backed by a (1977) c6 in my '68 ranger and now I'm having (what I believe is) transmission problems. The truck will idle and rev properly in gear but as soon as I put it in drive or reverse the RPM's drop and it dies. I jacked the back end up and put it in both drive and reverse and the tire's spin, but if I try and apply the brake to stop them the truck will die. My suspicion is that the torque converter is locked up all the time. I have managed to get it in gear and give it gas and it'll drive and shift fine, until I come to a stop. My question, what would cause the converter to do this? It's the same transmission and converter that I pulled out a month ago and I never had any issues before...
View 4 Replies
Friend lost reverse and truck shakes at 35 and above seems like it needs a new transmission. What years are a match for this transmission and any other models trans match?
View 2 Replies
I am using my son's truck this week, 2012 F250, 120,000 miles or so. I left it running in the drive while I got something from inside the house. Guess it was idling approximately 10 minutes. When I put it in reverse the transmission would not shift and the truck didn't move. I killed it, re-cranked it and it went in reverse.
As I was driving down the road the transmission would change gears up and down for no reason. I stopped the truck, and put it in park. I would put it in drive and the transmission sounded like it wanted to slip. I put it back in park and the transmission would not engage. I then killed the truck, re-cranked it, and it drove fine for awhile and started doing it again,
I kill the truck, re-crank it, and we go down the road.
View 13 Replies
I swapped a t5 transmission from a s-10 into my 52 ford f3. I am trying to rundown a grinding noise coming from the transmission. I replaced the throw out bearing and the input shaft bearing on the transmission. With the transmission partially apart I couldn't find any obvious problems. The noise is only present when the clutch is depressed either in gear out out of gear.
Left in neutral there isn't any noise. I initially thought the throw out bearing was the culprit and replaced both that and the input shaft bearing. What could be wearing out? The transmission shifts perfectly but there is a binding noise when the clutch is released in first and sometimes second gear. another binding noise is present when making a hard left turn while starting out. I am at a loss here....
View 2 Replies
1991 4x4 f250 idi w e4od w 3:55 ratio... The truck is slow to engage in reverse, about 5-10 sec. It also has a very hard shift 1-2. All other shift points are good. Drop down is good, and TC lock up happens at all the right points (feels like anyway).
I've had the truck for about 2 years now, replaced several sensors an harnesses and a full fluid change to solve other problems but this still remains.
Sometimes when I start it in the morning if I let it sit and idle for a few min it will engage reverse much quicker AND shifts way smoother and constant. Shifts smoothly thro all gears, holding a constant 1800-2000 rpms with no drop or lug. Or do I need a rebuild?
View 4 Replies
Recently had a coworker point out that my truck was making funny noises while it was backing up. It is a 2013 f150. It almost sounds like metal grinding to me. It does not do it while going forward either.
Have been underneath and can't notice anything out of place, although I'm not sure I'd notice if there was.
View 4 Replies
I have a 97 jetta trek that is having problems. Grinding noises from transfer , no reverse, hard to shift, loud winding noise. I think it's may be the trough out baring thing from what I'm reading.
View 6 Replies
I was driving out of a parking lot and as I accelerated onto the main road my vehicle stopped. I heard a grinding sound and could not go forward or reverse. While the car is in drive, park or reverse my car will roll any which way. It pushed it across the street. I tried to locate my tranny dipstick via visual inspection and manual. I could not find it. Could the stick have never been put back at some point in service and caused this issue. That seems unlikely but the thought occurred. Could it be the velocity joint? Whatever it is it certainly sounds like a transmission issue.
View 1 Replies
