I have a 1999 GMC Sierra 2500 with the 6.0 liter V8. I have right at 130,000 miles and I have a very annoying noise at very low idle. It's a buzzing sound whenever I put very light pressure on the gas peddle. When I depress it further the noise stops, but I don't always want to burn out of parking spaces.
View 1 RepliesMy 1989 GMC k1500 step side makes a buzzing noise when i run the heater, when i turn it up the noise gets louder, whats causing this and how do i fix it?
View 6 RepliesWhen cranking there is no fuel from the throttle body. Dropped the fuel line on both sides of the filter that was replaced last fall and have good flow before and after the filter. If I spray starting fluid down the throttle body it will fire. Switched out the throttle position sensor and idle air control valve to no avail. It used to die after warming up every so often at a stop light but would start right back up, now it just quit and wont start ???
View 1 Replies97 Sierra K1500, 5.7 liter. High pitched whistling sound underhood in the vicinity of the throttle body. Starts after truck warms up and quiets down when accelerating. I've wiggled hoses, disconnected what I could without stalling engine, checked air lines into throttle body, checked air filter, etc. Sound does not change when I apply brakes so I don't think it's related to master cylinder. The only time it changes is when I accelerate, then only gets quiet until I come back to steady speed.
Truck has 85,000, runs great. No codes.
A friend of mine has had this 2000 Sierra since new. It has just over 100K and never had any cooling issues before. Last week when it was about 10 below zero she drove it home and it overheated and pumped a couple quarts of antifreeze overboard.
She refilled it the next day and it was fine but got it looked at by a local independent mechanic. I had told her that it was likely a sticky thermostat and it ought to be changed out anyways due to its age. The mechanic thought I was wrong and that she had driven it off to quickly in the super cold weather.
When it's cold I can floor it and it'll go to 4K RPM.....When it warms up the oil pressure drops and then I can't push the motor over 1500 RPM. I overhauled it and used the old camshaft....I really don't want to get charged 80 bucks an hour for a mechanic to take 2 days to tell me it something I could have fixed myself.
1999 GMC Sierra 4.3 V6 "W"
1999 GMC Sierra - 2wd
Truck belongs to a co-workers son so I might not have all the info I need. Just within the last couple of days - he's driving at night and the headlights cut off. Pulls over and waits a bit - restarts - lights work for 1/2-1 mile then cut off again. He has changed the headlight relay switch.
No DRL but does have automatic headlights. First noted this Tuesday night and the weather since Tuesday has been either rainy or foggy. He had higher intensity "blue" bulbs installed but has swapped them to regular bulbs and the problem continues.
Recently had a driver's side window replaced in my 99 GMC Sierra. Also had the regulator and a door handle replaced as they were broken as well, but I knew this going in. Was informed I needed a new master switch and had them order/install.
Today I turned the key on and the window began rolling down on it's own. I hit the switch to stop it, which it did, but only as long as I held the switch down. Now the window is all the way down and will not roll back up. Passenger side window works fine from either switch. Door locks work as well for whatever that's worth.
I have a 99' GMC 1500 Sierra SLT w/5.3 Vortec V-8 w/460,000 miles (yup !!) I bought the p/u w/59,000 miles, and the gear-selection lever on the column has always been hard to move when selecting gears. My daughter drives the p/u, and is hard for her to select gears.
View 1 RepliesMy high mileage V6 1999 Sierra starts fine and runs great in the morning or when it is cold. As soon a you try to restart hot is spins fast enough, but has a very hard time starting. When it does start, there is smoke from the gas and the engine idles very high for about 10 minutes before settling down. Same thing reoccurs over and over when the engine is hot. May idle up to 2500 rpm, cant kick it off.
View 3 RepliesI have a 1999 GMC Sierra. The rear differential cover was leaking on me for past couple of months, but I was putting it off. FInally this weekend my truck starting making an airplane sound that seemed to be coming from the rear. The sound happened on acceleration only, and increased in amplitude and frequency as the speed increased and as I pressed the gas more. If I let go of the gas, or let it cruise, then the sound would sputter once or twice, and go away. It would resume if I pressed on the gas again.
Since the rear differential cover was leaking, I thought I burned out the gears. When I changed the cover, the gears appeared to be fine. The lubricant was super low, and did smell burned out though. I refilled the fluid and put a new cover on. This did not solve my noise problem though.
Is it still the rear differential that is making the noise? Is it something else? How hard is it, and how involved is it to replace the rear differential? Can I replace its components, and which ones?
I've recently picked up a new noise. At idle the engine buzzes. It sounds like the vacuum pump running but coming from the engine (the vacuum pump is not running while this noise is happening). This noise could also be happening while I'm driving too but the RPMs bring up the engine noise so I can't tell. Nothing looks out of the ordinary and I haven't done anything different that would give me any direction (no off-roading). It was just there one day.
The truck doesn't seem to be running any differently (right now), just the buzzing. I just want to catch it if it's going to become something serious. An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure (not to mention the towing bill!).
My friend and I were working on my truck and he was testing my AIH relay, as he was testing it the fuel pump was clicking on and off a few times over about 10 minutes. He explained that the current must be back feeding through the system and activating the pump. After testing the relay he determined that it non-functional / broken.
When we went to start it there was a strange buzzing from the fuse box area. After testing all of the fuses and then his code scanner not being able to connect to the truck we can only figure that the PCM is done.
The truck will turn over but not start. Any time the key is in the run position the buzzing noise is there unless you pull the PCM relay or the IDM relay. He says (I know very little about this stuff) that the IDM relay is trying to close but because the PCM is fried the IDM is not getting the signal to do so....?
So what now? Do I need a new PCM? He said something about it need to be reflashed to match the old one, is that right? Are all PCMs equal? What else should I know?
I own a 2003 f250 superduty v8 gas. I have a buzzing noise that comes and goes. It comes from the dashboard area around the steering column. However it goes away when either I press on the brakes, hit the signal or press my tow brake control.. And I could go days and not here it then it will be there for a few days and then it goes away again...
View 7 RepliesI had a buzzing noise on acceleration so today I cut all the heat shields off the exhaust system and also bent the bottom of the transmission inspection plate toward the front of the motor. It cured the buzzing noise but when I started the truck up there was a new rattle kind of sound, so I looked and found my y pipe is cracked where the passenger side pipe comes down off the manifold and connects to the pipe that goes to the cat converter.
I don't want to get a whole new y pipe could I order the spd Y pipe and that should work out right? it should be cheaper than a whole new y pipe aswell. I filled up the crack (it cracked 360) with weld but it was tissue paper so I would like to fix it before winter. I also still need to do my passenger side manifold studs and weld a new muffler because I found the rear half of mine is rotted off lol so I will probably do this all at one time.
I'm probably just going to pull everything manifolds and back off the truck, I have a feeling theres a bunch of rust sitting in front of the cat or muffler making the new rattling noise. Also in all my years of wrenching I have never figured out an easy way to get the exhaust off those rubber hangers, I always try to spray wd40 in there to get them to slide easy but always end up tearing them while trying to get them off.
I have had a 2000 f250 crew cab for little over a year now. Two previous times, after heavy rains, the cabin light would blink on and i would get a buzzing sound under the dash. I would solve the annoying buzzing sound by opening and closing the door. After a few times, it would work, but my clock and radio could go on without the key in the on position. The next time i used it, no problems... so i put that worry in the back of my mind.
This morning it rained really heavy, sideways type of rain. I opened the door and noticed a small puddle on the vinyl floors right where my left foot goes. OH,oh i thought, but the truck turned over and ran like normal. I picked up a heavy load of hickory in the bed and hopped back in and noticed my speedometer jumping from 0- 30 when I was going about 35. The OD light was blinking, but the transmission shifted normally. I got up to about 1700 rpm and the speedo was barely jumping at 53-55. I make another stop to unload the wood and go back home and i get an intermittent buzzing sound on the way home and no speedo. OD light would start blinking before i hit 2nd gear. I also noticed the odometer not working (speedo related, right?)
I got home and took the fuse relay cover off and found that if I would remove the #1 relay "plug" (black square box 5 prongs) that dreaded buzzing sound would go away, checked it out , plugged it back in, buzzing back on. The clock light still stays on and radio will turn on without the key. I think that water obviously leaked in over something electrical and i have been searching this and other forms for a couple of hours. I am within a couple of weeks of saving up enough to buy the gauges, exhaust and possible DP Tuner and now this happens?
2 weeks ago, I purchased a 2015 F250 6.2 with 16K miles. Upon bringing her home, I noticed that there is a buzzing noise coming from the engine compartment after I shut down the motor which lasts approximately one minute (give or take). Since the truck is still under factory warranty, I figure I'll take it to the local dealership, but I'm wondering with the 6.2 has had the same issue and what the issue could possibly be.
View 6 RepliesI went on deployment and handed the wife to crank the truck up she did but didn't drive it so batteries didn't charge back up. I got them charged up and the truck cranked right up. I was plugging it in at night and it would start just fine the next morning. Then a week later batteries kept dying in a few hours during the day. Had to jump it again. then even when plugged in trying to crank it there was a buzzing noise and it would crank but not start. I bought new batteries and it cranked right up and drove fine until I shut it off and same problem and batteries were low again and it will crank but wont turn over. I am thinking maybe alternator.
View 3 Replies2001 F-350, 7.3L,
Has done this off & on for a few years and am tired of it! Noise is kind of a buzzing that seems to come from the flasher/turn signal relay. It stops buzzing when you turn on a turn signal, activate the flashers, or lift up on the shifter arm(?). Had to drive home yesterday with the flashers on! So I see from researching that it may actually be the multi-funtion switch on the steering column. So I removed that, cleaned up all the contacts, and put it back on and the buzzing did not go away.
After disassembling what felt like the whole front end of the truck, I finally gain access to the danged thing. Mine has been acting up intermittently for about year and half I guess. When flipping to switch to signal turning, it started making a buzzing sound. At first it was doing it most of the time. Then it cleared up and started working right for several months, then act up, the act right. Well, now it makes the buzzing noise more often than not so i decided to address it. I went to Oreilly, they didn't have one, but told me the part number.
I went across the street to Autozone, that had one on the shelf that was same part number as Oreilly. I put it in and when flipping the switch, the relay does it tick tock sounds like its working, except for there is no indication on the dash cluster that its working, nor are the actual lights working. I swap back to original and buzzing, put in new one and tick tock but no lights. Whats the deal? Is this one of those things that you have to go back to Ford? Or maybe i got a bum relay from parts house and should exchange for another to see if it works?
2006 Honda CRV, throttle by wire. How can you get the throttle plate open to clean the throttle body etc.
View 4 Replies