I have a 2000 jetta with a 12v and it will cough and give a shake. Its not throwing a misfire code. The only thing I can think of is it being the intake shift rod.
View 11 RepliesMy display on the MFA and Climatronic panel is really wrong (-44C now). I was taking a look at the sensor in the front left grille but the only thing that's changing into the readings with my Vag-Com is the outside temperature sensor but not the displayed temperature.
I didn't find any other sensor on my car. Nothing into the rain tray...
My car has been acting odd recently and I didn't notice until a romp down a local twisty road. Under acceleration or braking there is a knocking sound almost as if the subframe is moving. You can feel it through the steering and pedals. Also around tight bends when applying throttle there is a vibration followed by a clunk and then harsh vibration. The best way I can describe the feeling is as if I rolled a tire off the rim. I've read through all the tech guides and nothing has fixed it. I have new driveshafts, New tie rods, New steering rack. Everything underneath seems tight and the rear torsion beam seems fine.
View 16 RepliesSo I just got my first alignment done on my gli since I lowered it. Before I got the alignment it had a shake in the steering wheel in acceleration mainly but more often at higher speeds. I was hoping that it would ride like butter but it's still shaking. The alignment was pretty bad before I took it to the shop today but what could the shake be coming from now? BTW I installed Ecs tuning rear wheel centering plates last night and I'm about to install their adjustable sway bar end links because I noticed last week that the sway bar had been rubbing the axle some.
View 14 Replies VWVortex, so I've had some issues with my MK4 recently (go figure). It started with steering wheel getting intermittent and random jerks to the right after driving for about 20 minutes on the highway at any speed any gear but only at around 1/6 throttle. I needed to do front end maintenance anyway, so I replaced both complete LCA's with ECS Tuning's ply ones, went stage 2 BFI engine mounts, stage 2 BFI dogbone mount, both ball joints, both tie rods ends, both axles, and an alignment.
Now I'm getting a shimmy in the steering wheel starting at ~80mph. I know my wheels are slightly bent and are being replaced in the summer when the weather is warmer, but it wasn't doing this same shimmy prior to all this. Just the jerking. Could it be they messed up on the alignment? Its really getting on my nerves considering I've dumped a lot of money trying to fix this problem just to have something else pop up.
I have a bad wheel bearing but on the highway my steering wheel shakes. It is only on the highway not down residential streets. I'm pretty sure it is the driver's side wheel bearing. I already balanced my wheels and everything.
View 5 RepliesI have a 2002 Hyundai Accent 1.6L automatic. I just bought it today. It has 171,000 miles. The car is misfiring. It does it when I give it gas. It won't misfire if I only give a little gas but if I was to drive it then it spits and sputters. I put new wires on. what are some common things on these cars. I am new to a Hyundai.
View 3 RepliesI have a new problem that I only discovered a few days ago. As I come to a stop at a traffic light, turning out of somewhere or whatever if I give the car a little more gas than normal not that I punch it or anything from a stop the car bogs down and bangs a little rough like I was rear ended. The car is in drive when it happens. Its just fine any other time. I was told it could be as simple as a bad tps or as bad as a defective torque converter or tranny. Its a 2005 gls hatchback with the 1.8L. also, the engine has been running a little rough recently too if that could have anything to do with it. No warning lights are on either.
View 15 RepliesI have a 2000 F150 5.4l 4x4. When I am going over 50 on the highway and I am in OD, if I let off the gas a couple of seconds later it feels as though the brakes come on because the truck slow down so drastically and when I give it a little gas it slams into gear. It feels as like there is a "gap" where nothing is engaged before it slams back in. This is a rebuilt tranny with less than 7K miles on it. I took it back once and they said it was the motor mounts. I had those replaced and still the same problem. I replaced the spark plugs 6K miles ago and the COPs 3K ago. There is 170K on the truck. I only drive about 8K miles a year.
View 2 RepliesI have a 2000 Ford F-250 6.8 v10 that is running rough and cutting out when I give it gas but I can turn the key off and turn it back on and it will run right, what it could be?
View 1 RepliesSo I have an odd whistle noise, when I give it a little gas it makes a faint whistle noise. Only happens on acceleration with a little gas, I don't think it's the turbo.
2016 GTI SE DSG - no mods...
So I'm not sure if this is normal or not, considering it's not an issue I had with my mark 4. I'm new to my mark 6, and I noticed something a little bit terrifying today on the freeway. When I was in a conversion lane, from one freeway to the next (basically a very large, and hard-turning lane) I noticed that i would lose traction. As in my traction control light would come on. Going about 60, yes I know it's a little fast for these lanes seeing as they're usually is a 45 limit on them. Anyways, when the light came on, I would try to hit the brakes a little, and my brakes would give out. My pedal would lose all pressure, and my wheels and what not felt like I had just hit a tire or something on the freeway.
View 24 RepliesI have a 1979 chevy g10 sportvan with a 305 engine. Some time ago the van started to cough and die when going up a hill. It would not start at all while on the slope but if I rolled it back to a level surface it would start right up. I found that if i filled the gas tank up, the problem would go away. I figured that i had a problem with the sending unit, maybe the tube that runs toward the bottom of the tank was corroded in some way so that it would only suck gas when the tank was full to a certain point. So I kept the tank at least half full with no problems. Then the problem returned when the tank was 3/4 of the way full. I figured that the sending unit was getting worse. I removed the gas tank and removed the sending unit which looked fine. I was disappointed.
I began to drive my farm truck around and the van sat for awhile- maybe 6 months. My farm truck finally died, so back to trying to get the van running.I put a new sending unit in since i had the tank out anyway, put about 5 gallons of gas in it and headed for the nearest hill. Seemed to work just fine. Problem solved, right? After about 100 miles of driving the problem is back again. I figured o.k. the carb float must be getting stuck, so i have removed the carb. I found that the fuel filter was crushed/ installed improperly, it was just kind of smashed and twisted looking when i took it out of its housing. Yes i am the one who did that and yes i am an idiot. I cannot exactly remember if the problem existed before i changed the filter last time, but i suspect that it did. I have the carb apart right now, it certainly needs a cleaning, but the float did not seem to be hung up at all. The van has a mechanical fuel pump. I imagine if its not pumping enough pressure it could cause it to stall or bog on a hill, but it won't start at all on a slope after it dies. It starts immediately on the flat.
I guess my questions are these: Could the filter problem have caused the stalling problem? What else in the fuel system could be failing due to gravity? Should I be looking elsewhere for the problem?
Today I was driving and all of a sudden the car started to seem like it wasnt responding well when giving the gas. then the check engine light came on flashing. I pulled over to check in my manual and it says there is a malfunction with the CAT, it started to smell like eggs. now i remember reading once that the smell of eggs is a burnt cat, is this the problem or could it be only the sensor ? How much a new one goes for ? how about the cat, how much does that go for ? if it is my cat how does putting in a high flow cat sound? good or bad ?
View 7 Replies4 cyldr has very rough idle along with engine shake. Just started doing this. I replaced the cam sensor a few months ago and all has been well. But it started running so rough, almost like it jumped time. I was disconnecting sensors to see if motor idle changed and when I unplugged mass air flow sensor on air filter intake tube, nothing changed. Could this cause such a dramatic idle ?
View 2 RepliesI drive a 2000 Oldsmobile Bravada. I just changed the outer tie-rod (passenger side),and there is still a fairly good shake coming from the front end. I have checked everything that comes to mind (true, not too sound a mind). My question is, how would i check the steering gear box?
View 2 RepliesMy 2000 v10 w/194K has developed an intermittent shake when braking. Severity from mild to severe. Had the problem earlier, suspected the rotors - replaced front rotors and pads with EB slotted rotors and Yellow Stuff pads. It was fine for a couple of months, now its back. Replaced the slide pins last night (they were in good shape, replaced anyway). Where to look next?
View 14 RepliesMy 7.3 will cough randomly on the interstate not towing or anything. It has a new turbo and filters...
View 6 RepliesI am having trouble with my car hesitating when it sits between 1600 and 2000 rpm. My car does a rapid shake that is felt throughout the car. It lasts for 2 seconds and then disappears. It has been happening for a month now and it seems to be increasing in frequency. My husband doesn't believe it is a major problem and that it can wait.
View 2 RepliesI have a 2000 Mazda Protege ES, with about 120,000 miles. On February 14th, Valentine's Day, my car broke down and has not functioned since then. Here's what happened, I was driving the car when it started to shake. It continued to shake for about 5 minutes, then it stalled. I was able to start he car again and it began shaking worse than before. Then it stalled again and it has not run since then.
The mechanic I've been working with has tried a new CAM sensor, replaced the computer and checked some of the electrical wiring. But nothing has worked. It's been almost 4 months and I am eager to get my car functioning properly right again.
Okay I have a 2000 Jetta GLS VR6. I had the engine replaced after i found out the block was cracked when replacing the heater core. ever since it was replaced the car runs great but it keeps throwing these 4 codes.
p1424 secondary air injection system bank 1 leak detected -intermittent
p0411 secondary air injection system incorrect flow detected
p1603 internal control module failed self test -intermittent
p0134 02 sensor bank 1 sensor no1 no activity -intermittent
The thing that is bugging me is that the sai pump is still running. On cold start it literally sounds like a Dyson vacuum. What i should try.