Golf IV / Jetta IV :: 2001 Turns Off When Slow Down Or Stop?
Jan 7, 2005
I have a weird problem. Sometimes when i slow down to make a turn or stop at a stop sign my car just dies...that's it...it just turns off...but i turn the key and it starts right back up...the weird part is that i've had the car for a year and it only does it about once a month??? I took it to the dealer and...big surprise...they said they couldn't find anything wrong with it...it doesn't turn off while I'm driving on the highway or anything...only does it when i slow down to make a sharp turn or when i stop at a stop sign and go again... I might just trade it in for an Audi A4. I have a 2001 Jetta 1.8t...
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Having a problem with the ABS activating when it shouldn't. I happens whenever I slow down to a near stop. Sometimes the ABS and ASR light comes on and it's not a problem, but I ain't got no abs.
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My jetta failed to start for me at a local grocery store. It would crank super slow once or twice then stop. Tried push starting it to no avail. Got it towed home, and thought to try a new battery, figuring that the alternator might be bad. Got a new battery yesterday (still under warranty), threw it in the car, and gave it a shot. It turned over slow 4-5 times then stopped.
I have been having the ever-annoying shifter rod rattle for a while, and it recently got much more obnoxious. I am beginning to think that maybe the more obnoxiousness was my timing chain though. It sounded like marbles, but the noise sounded like it was coming from the intake, not the side of the motor. Also, not sure if this matters but the battery terminals got super hot after I tried to start it last. What to check? Electrical short? Timing off? Something from the shifter rod fell into the motor? Some other strange issue?
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I recently replaced my driver side axle due to the inner CV joint boot being ripped. Its a 2001 Jetta VR6 with 173,000 miles on it and I have been driving it with a ripped boot for about a year and finally decided to replace the whole axle last night. I replaced it with an aftermarket axle (was on a budget) and the job was fairly easy. Since I did it late at night I was too tired to take it for a test drive so I waited until today. When I was driving it all was well until I took a right turn and I could hear a very distinct clicking sound coming from the driver side wheel well, it is constant throughout the turn.
The noise is only present when taking turns above 20mph and it sometimes even occurs when driving in a straight line. Take note that I have not had an alignment done yet since I had replaced the axle. The car is lowered about 2 inches on Raceland coil-overs that are pretty old and I think they are shot. But like I said the car has NEVER made this sound until I just recently replaced the axle. I am at a loss of what it could be and I am trying to sell the car currently so I would like to get this problem sorted out as soon as possible!
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My ac stopped blowing cold. The compressor turns on when I turn the ac on. When I pressure tested the low line port, it showed it was too high to add any recharge. 2001 jetta wolfsburg 1.8t....
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My truck has grinding noises when i am making turns from a stop or at slow speeds. Also my 4x4 dash light keeps flashing several times both when I am sitting still and when driving. Neither my 4x4 auto or 4x4 high work but the low will work. Trying to pinpoint where I should look to fix them. I did replace the 4x4 control mod as an attempt to fix this.
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2006 4.6l / Stalls at stop signs, red lights, and slow turns. My truck has been doing this for 3 years. Throws a code for crank position sensor, also will say unexpected low idle which would explain why so many of us have low oil pressure while this is happening. So after years of worrying and reading these forums and stalling at stop signs I take to the shop. And it was the throttle body needed cleaned. No more problems. Runs like a new one. I have used Lucas fuel treatment for years in this truck. Im a big fan of their products. When this problem began I was adding Lucas with every tank of fuel.
I buy it by the gallon jug. I used some Lucas from this same jug on the wifeys Denali and her truck stalled out once or twice. She wouldn't ever let me add any to her gas again lol, I argued with her that it wasn't because of the Lucas additive. Never the less it never stalled again. Maybe I got a bad batch, maybe I used too much, or maybe it had nothing to do with the additive. But I thought it needed to be mentioned since it is supposed to be a cleaner, and since I carried it in my tool box and added it to almost every tank of fuel. I was adding about 7 ounces per tank. Who knows? But the problem with this truck is that the throttle body did need cleaned.
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So here's whats going on now. My girlfriend has had her car for about 10 months now, and besides the last 3 weeks it has been a perfect car. In these last 3 weeks though her car has been a real pain.
Her car randomly dies while its being driven/at a stop. It doesn't matter how fast she is going or how long she has been at a stop.
It first started 3 weeks ago when i was driving it to the mall with her and the car started to slow down on the freeway, going about 65. I pushed on the accelerator and got no response. After about 5 seconds all power came back and we were off. At no point in time did the power inside or the headlights dim/turn off.
Next time it died it wouldn't get going again. Battery was fine. My first assumption was the fuel pump. Replaced the fuel pump and it ran fine.
A couple days later the car did the exact same thing, except this time the battery was completely shot. Took a look at it and it was almost 8 years old. Went and replaced it.
The following day it died again, this time it was the battery again but since it was a brand new battery we knew it couldn't be the issue. So i went ahead and replaced the alternator. Turned on the car and it ran perfect. While it was running i even disconnected the battery just to make sure the alternator could still power the car, no issues.
A few days went by with everything working perfectly fine, not a single issue that is, until tonight. As my girlfriend was coming to pick me up her car died. She was coming up to a stop light and starting to slow down when her car lost power again. All the lights and radio stayed on but the car died. Battery light came on as well. I walked to her car and told her to try to start it. Fired up right away and ran fine like nothing ever happened. Drove it to my house without another issue.
At this point i'm stumped. The CEL is not coming on, which is a bummer because that would make this much easier. I cleaned off the terminals for the battery and the connecting wires (which weren't dirt or corroded).
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New post for a better problem. It was a hot day today in vegas, but my santa fe was running at normal temp (I double checked with my analyzer), running great. When I got home I turned the key off and took it out of the ignition, all the electrics went out (lights, gauges, etc.) yet the car was still running. It took about 5 seconds or so for it to wind down and stop.
2001 Santa Fe, 2.7ltr, 120,000 mi., 2 wheel drive, great shape, no codes.
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I have a 2001 Hyundai Accent with 210,000 miles. I had had very few problems with the car in the past 11 years - 2 sensor problems, transmission related at 100K and oxygen sensor at 160K. I have done oil changes every 3000-4000 miles, transmission flushes every 30K, and timing belt replacements every 60K. However, within the last month, the car sometimes dies when I fast or slow brake to a stop. Due to the high mileage, I had the fuel pump and fuel filter replaced and had the timing/tuneup checked. There is no check computer light lit. What else can I check?
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I have a Hyundai Santa fe 2004 6cyl 2.7 L , AWD. I am having problem of slow acceleration which is worse after a stop sign or red light. Sometimes while taking turns I feels like that I will not move and I was lucky to be not hit by a Car coming from opposite direction while taking a left turn today.
The Truck’s exhaust pipe broke recently and a auto garage welded it. But I am facing the above problem immediately after the repair of exhaust pipe. If I put more pressure on gas pedal then a mal function indicator comes and today I took it to another mechanic and he gets the error code of P0303 –engine misfire and wants to charge me ~ $600 $ to replace spark plugs and wires. The malfunction indicator goes off also while I am driving and can comes back after a while or a day. With the indicator on, the car drives erratic (minor jolts ) for few meters and then its fine. Since when I am driving on highways then I can go higher speeds without any problem. Is it still misfire issue???
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I picked up an '08 R32 about two months ago and was having issues with the DSG and the dealership determined it was an issue with the mechatronic unit so they swapped it. That made a huge difference, but the downshifting is still very hard when coming to a slow stop (to the point where the car jumps), especially from 2nd to 1st gear. About half the time when I back out of a parking spot, then put the car in drive and start to give it gas, the car doesn't move for a few seconds as the RPM's build, then it slams into gear.
This all happens in drive (D). I haven't even used the other modes to know if it's happening there too. The dealership says they don't see any issues with it and there are no error codes and that there is nothing wrong with the car, but this is by far the worst transmission I've ever had in any car I've ever owned. I find it hard to believe that VW and Audi would put this in their higher end cars, so I can only assume there is something wrong with mine.
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So i just recently purchased this car and about two weeks in I CEL turns on and the car just doesn't seem to drive like it did when i first brought it home. I don't know much about forced induction cars but the from watching the boost gauge, it seems to flutter when accelerating and just doesn't pick up like it should i feel. First thing I could think of is a boost leak but like I said, don't know anything about these cars.
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My car has been sitting for three days and I went to start it and it turns over but doesn't even try to fire. If i press the gas while it's turning over, it doesn't change at all. Do any of you know what could be causing that?
yes I searched and it turned back nothing, so if there is already a thread, could you point me in that direction?
Also, the car previously had a tick on start up for about 30 seconds and then it would disappear, that doesn't seem related to the no cranking thing to me though. The only other strange thing that happened was a week ago when the car dumped an unusual amount of smoke as if it blew a head gasket... but it didn't, and nothing has happened since then until now.
The car used to do frequent trips of 15 or 20 miles at a time every day but now it does 5 or 6 miles every few days and then 300 miles at 80mph each way once a month, so I don't know if the constant 3800 rpms on the long trips could be having some sort of affecting this
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I drive a 2016 Golf TSI S and I am having this weird brake problem. Every time I try to modulate my braking, it would suddenly bite and brake hard then let go. It feels like the front and back brakes are not in sync or something. This happens when I am going slow or less than 20mph. Its really hard to slow down to a smooth stop especially in traffic when this happens.
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My wife's car is a 2006 2.0T Passat. It has been very slow to blow cool air on starting. Once you are moving at highway speeds it cools fine, but then blows hot air when you slow or come to a stop.
I have taken the car to a mechanic who purged and refilled the coolant. This did not fix the problem. Upon checking with the mechanic, we noticed that both the primary and aux. cooling fans start and stop at the same time, and only would come on when I would rev the engine up some (around 2000 rpm).
I have talked with this mechanic and one more. Both are certified master mechanics, but neither specializes in VW. They believe it may be the high pressure side switch or the compressor itself.
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I was driving on the highway in my 2001 jetta (332000 km) on the cruise control yesterday and suddenly it just started slowing down and stopped. Putting my feet in the gas did nothing . Before stopping completely the battery light came on. After won't start anymore, just making a sound like it is trying but turn in the butter. To be honest the check engine has been on for a while but we are pretty sure that is the glow plugs because it is a recurrent problem... Nothing else light up and there was no sound or smoke.
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Have a 2000 1.8t Jetta that turns over but won't start, What I should be looking into?
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I have a 120k miles manual 2000 jetta vr6 12v. I was having check engine issues so i put in a reader and showed me problems at catalytic converter. I don't remember the code, and no longer have a reader...
I was told to replace the oxygen sensors in both banks as well which i did.
I opened up catalytic converter to inspect and now the car will get no spark, the engine turns, and the display shows engine stop.
I was also told to put the oxygen sensor further away with an extension cord but not sure if that plays a part.
Does the catalytic converter is causing it to not spark?
Could there be an issue with maybe a sensor at the crankshaft that checks for motion?
What the starting sequence and dependencies are or what failures I could have that prevent the spark?
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I have a 2001 Golf 1.8T and while driving the oil pressure light turns on and the meter goes beyond the midpoint. I brought it in to a shop and they told me I need to change the oil pump and will cost $900. They told me it's because I don't frequently change oil and once the new oil is in, it caused the problem and only way to drive the car again is to replace the oil pump.
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I just worked on my car for a week and it was jacked up with the rear end squatted down and now when i corner the fuel gauge goes down.
2004 1.8t jetta ....
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