I have a 2004 jetta gls wagon with a 1.8t. the car ran just fine and had a tune running 16psi strong. I changed the battery in it and now the car wont boost, bogs out and SLAMS hard from gear to gear ( auto 5 speed ). I don't have vag com. I just need to get the car to drive with out it. Even if i get back to factory tune im ok with it.
View 8 Replies I have a golf mk4 1.8T AGU, about one week after i had my k04-023 turbo on and all the Stuff that comes along it started "stall" (don't know if its the right word??) in the High gears, most 5th gear but it first start doing it when i hit boost (3000rpm)
I runs on Stock n75 valve.. I though i could be a boost problem, maybe the Stock system cant handle it? I did install a boost gauge to see if it was the was the problem, and it dont Seem like it. In first it runs from 1.4 bar and drops to 1.2. Same in second and third. But in 4 and 5th it goes to 1.7 bar and drops to 1.4.. I did wonder it maybe the n75 valve cant handle 1.7 bar??
My 03 Gli 24v manual transmission has been acting up lately. First it started to get a little difficult to shift into gears about a week ago. Then tonight i was driving through a parking lot in 2nd, and after i came to a stop i tried to put it back in to first and it would not go into gear. As i was trying to get it into 1st i could tell it was grabbing a little bit and the car was inching forward.
I got it to a parking spot and starting reading about other peoples issues, one i read said they were able to get it to move after pumping the clutch some. After trying that i was able to get it into gear and drive it to my parents. Looked at my brake fluid and its full. Took it for a test drive around the neighborhood and it was shifting fine at first then started getting a little difficult to shift again. I tried taking off in 6th and it stalled. I tried going from 1st around 3k-4k rmps to 6th and it was still driving with very little lugging. My clutch feels and is still stiff, not loose at all. I do have to go all the way to the floor with the clutch before im able to shift
Finally to my questions. Could my clutch be going bad? Could my cables need adjusting? Something I read about a pressure plate maybe?
So I changed transmission fluid on my 1.8t GLS because I was having difficulty shifting out of gears on cold starts. It seemed to work fine for a few days and now I'm back to square one, it still doesn't want to shift correctly!
View 14 RepliesI noticed this sound on Thursday, I couldn't replicate the issue at first, but it's getting worse. I can now replicate it almost any time I get into boost in a higher gear (4th, 5th mainly). Partial throttle, usually starts around 3,000 RPMs. Can't quite tell where it's coming from, but it's a bit concerning. I've got 16,000 miles on it with no mods (DSG gti). It'll be going to the dealer next week for sure, but what it could be? Kind of afraid to be driving it, but my dealer is closed until Monday and I wont be able to get over there until the afternoon.
Sound starts at about 6 seconds into the video (it's quiet, but you can hear it well if your volume is up), turbo starts spooling up at about 4 seconds. The car has a slight hesitation when the noise happens, but it's not violent. No CEL.
I just bought this problem child and I am having som trouble finding out why when you put it into Reverse it slams into gear hard enough that the nose dives down. I cant figure out why. Then RPMS are always low like 800 and it acts like its at 2500. It slamms that hard.
The 2nd issue is when I push the brakes there is a vaccum sound from under the dash and the brake pedal gets hard and the car does not stop well. I assume it is the brake booster but I have not tore the dash appart yet.. The RPMS dont drop out when the vaccum leak starts and thats what confuses me.
I went on vacation for a week and left my car at my parents house. I came back and now it has become extremely difficult to shift between gears. It's nearly impossible to get the car into reverse, extremely difficult to get it into first, makes a thud when pulling it out of first, is semi difficult to get into 2nd, but only a mild nuisance to get into 3rd through 6th.
For more information, the car is a 2012 Volkswagen GLI with just shy of 40,000 miles. The car ran just fine before I went on vacation and the car was not moved while I was on vacation. I did notice that a little ticking kind of sound when I had the car in neutral with no clutch. So the throw out bearing was starting to wear, but it was a very slight. But I haven't had any other problems.
I have a 2000 F150 5.4l 4x4. When I am going over 50 on the highway and I am in OD, if I let off the gas a couple of seconds later it feels as though the brakes come on because the truck slow down so drastically and when I give it a little gas it slams into gear. It feels as like there is a "gap" where nothing is engaged before it slams back in. This is a rebuilt tranny with less than 7K miles on it. I took it back once and they said it was the motor mounts. I had those replaced and still the same problem. I replaced the spark plugs 6K miles ago and the COPs 3K ago. There is 170K on the truck. I only drive about 8K miles a year.
View 2 RepliesI'm having problems with my 6r140 in my 2011, the truck is an early build around 8/2010 I believe.
After cold soak when shifting into reverse after allowing engine to warm a bit the transmission almost always slams hard into reverse.
After that shifting from 1-3 is awful, the transmission will try to go into 3rd but downshift to 1st then fail to go back into 3rd multiple times. This situation is extremely dangerous when trying to pull into traffic.
Oh and once the transmission gets into 3rd it will skip 4th and go right into 5th. There is only 94k miles on this transmission/truck.
I just bought this truck about a month ago, does this sound like an issue with the solenoids in the valve body?
I'm very mechanically inclined and can swap them if need be but now we're talking few hundred in solenoids and then getting the trucks pcm flashed right?
Also fluid has been changed and I used mercon lv.
So, I have a 2009 Golf City (Canadian mk4.5) with the 09G 6 speed Tiptronic automatic transmission. It's at 80k kilometers and shifting fine, I can remember maybe one 1-2 slip bump a few weeks ago but that's it. Shifts in Drive, Sport or Tiptronic are smooth and forced downshifts are smooth as well. I do want to follow the US service interval of 40k miles, and of course, my dealership won't do anything with this transmission unless it's broken because "Your fluid lasts the life of the car sir!" That, of course, we all know is BS because every transmission wears, and I don't want millions little metal shards of hardened steel having a party on the inside of my transmission.
This being said, I know that you can do a pan out filter and fluid change, but your only getting about 5L of fluid of the 9L that the 09G has. Or I can pay a local trans shop to do a full flush without dropping the pan by tapping into the in/out fluid ports and flushing everything out. My worry about a flush is that it will take these little anarchist metal shards and put them in a spot where they get stuck and have an all out project X-style party with my solenoids, gears, and torque converter. And the filter still won't have been changed!
Or I do the former where I get the ECS Tuning kit, drop the pan and clean out these little bastards and put in a new filter and not worry about the last 4L of fluid that still might have some of these buggers in it...
I changed the driver side axle on my 03 GLI 24v VR6 today and the driver side of the car now seems higher than it was. I was given the wrong axle twice so the car sat on a jack stand for hours could this be why? If so how long will it take to revert? Only things that was undone was the ball joint and tie rod so I'm not too sure why it seems higher.
View 4 Repliesmy car into VAG COM and since then it hasn't boosted past 4 lbs. it has Revo stg 2, K04, aftermarket side mount, full exhaust and a couple other bolt ons. Before the car was spiking at around 23/24 lbs. after pressure testing the system I found that the turbo inlet pipe was lose, so I tightened it. Still no change. I tried holding the battery terminals together for 10 minutes to reset the ecu and I also tried clearing the codes through a handheld code reader. No codes even come up anyways for this. The car is a 1.8T.
View 4 RepliesSo my 2001 1.8t Golf is having some issues holding boost. I have a Gonzo stage 2 tune, CTS FMIC, Forge 008 Diverter, Silicone inlet and MagnaFlow Exhaust. I've also done the whole Evap, SAI delete and installed a catch can.
Starting in 2nd or 3rd at WOT the car spikes up to 18psi and then progressively loses boost throughout the rev range. Close to redline the boost drops to 5 psi or so. It seems to be dependent on the revs. In fifth gear the car holds 18 psi much longer as the revs don't increase as fast.
There are no CELs. I've done multiple leak tests starting at the air box and plugging the pcv/catch can system as well as at the compressor side of the turbo. None of the tests revealed a leak anywhere in the intake system. However, when I stuck my ear very close to the valve cover I could hear what sounded like a very small air leak coming from inside the valve cover. I took a look at the wastegate actuator and it seemed fine, no play in the rod, no loose bolts and to move it just requires enough force to compress the spring and it returned to its original position.
My thoughts are that it could be a fueling issue or turbo in the process of dying maybe.
Just noticed today that I have a slight drop in boost. Normal boost is 1.5 bar but today it is running slightly lower boost and does not have the same pull through all the gears.
2001 mk4 1.9 tdi golf
I just recently notice a whistling noise when I hit boost. I'm not sure but it sounds like it is coming from my gauge. I'm not losing boost pressure. I do have a glow shift gauge. The most recent install was the TIP which I clamped on to the turbo but I'm wondering if it isn't on tight enough.
View 2 RepliesI was riding along today everything running fine then I came to a stop sign and when I pulled off my car wouldn't run 10 psi of boost it was only running 5 psi so I when to a buddys checked everything over and all my piping looked fine so I went up the road and everything was fine so when I started going home it did the same thing pulled of shut the car off pulled off and it was fine again.
View 5 RepliesI think my stock DV is going bad, my car makes a weird noise under boost?
1. Only happens when first starting the car after it has been sitting for an hour or a few. (not overnight)
2. Does NOT happen when first start in morning.
3. Goes away after like 5 minutes every time and the normal WHIIISHH sound comes back like it should when I step on the gas.
4. It does not make the sound at idle.
This recording I made was of my car being revved up after it sat for one hour.
[URL] ...
Replaced my coil packs/sparks, and just got around to changing my N75 valve today. The rough idle issue is gone but now when I go WOT it boosts but goes from 15psi-12-13-12-14-12...etc. I've checked and there are no boost leaks. I do have a CEL saying I need a new bank 1 sensor 1 Oxygen sensor. If it is that, why did this problem arise as soon as I changed the N75 valve and wasn't present earlier?
View 1 RepliesI was having an issue with my car not going into boost so I plugged my code reader in and it had 2 codes 1 was p1200 n249 malfunction and the other was diverter valve malfunction so I did the quick easy one and got a new factory diverter valve but it still doesn't go into boost and still reads p1200 n249 what do I need to replace or should I do the n249 bypass it's a bone stock jetta 5 speed.
View 5 RepliesI just got done with a complete engine rebuild on my 02 1.8t jetta, had everything hooked back up and went to start it for the first time and it wouldn't. I went back looking for loose connections, nothing. Worked and banged my head for a day or two, I had fuel and spark but couldn't get it to fire. Finally I "choked" the intake to see if it was getting too much air and it fired right up. I unplugged my map sensor giggles and it starts up perfectly. I then hooked everything back up and what do you know it starts up and runs fine, but if I plug the sensor back in it kills the motor after about 10 seconds of running and won't start until I unplug the map again.
Car runs and drives but wont boost over wg pressure but that's probably because sensor itself is unplugged. I just wanna know what could cause it besides the sensor itself being bad. I ordered a new one waiting for it to get here (hoping it fixes the problem).. And I'm talking map (manifold absolute pressure) not maf (mass air flow), just in case people are confused.
I got a Mk7 in October and my Mk4 has unfortunately been parked since. I started it and let it idle to warm once a week or so when I went on Vacation for 10 days. Before going on vacation I moved the car and after warming up everything seemed to be normal. Unfortunately I neglected it once I got back and haven't started it since the beginning of December. I'm selling it here soon and so went out to spruce her up tonight and upon trying to start the battery was dead so a buddy came over and jumped it.
It started right up but immediately was idling funny which I assumed was because of the cold (it's 25 degrees F tonight and has gotten in the negatives in the past few weeks due to snow storms). I shut it down and checked the fluids which were all pretty low especially the oil due to a small leak. So I topped off the all the fluids and started it again and let it idle to full warm.
I decided to take it for a drive around the block and it was still driving pretty rough, no knocking or anything but the engine was "sputtering" and the CEL was on and flashed when I gave it gas. I'm running stock boost so my gauge usually reads around 12psi but is now only going up to 3-5 psi and the vacuum is only at -15 which i think used to idle at -20. I drove it to the gas station and filled it up from a little less than a half tank but it's still running the same and there's a slight burning smell from the exhaust.
I was worried it was my turbo but it was perfectly fine a month ago. I was thinking of throwing some Seafoam or Heat.