Aurora :: 95 - Slams Into Gear Hard Enough When Put Into Reverse
Nov 11, 2013
I just bought this problem child and I am having som trouble finding out why when you put it into Reverse it slams into gear hard enough that the nose dives down. I cant figure out why. Then RPMS are always low like 800 and it acts like its at 2500. It slamms that hard.
The 2nd issue is when I push the brakes there is a vaccum sound from under the dash and the brake pedal gets hard and the car does not stop well. I assume it is the brake booster but I have not tore the dash appart yet.. The RPMS dont drop out when the vaccum leak starts and thats what confuses me.
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I'm having problems with my 6r140 in my 2011, the truck is an early build around 8/2010 I believe.
After cold soak when shifting into reverse after allowing engine to warm a bit the transmission almost always slams hard into reverse.
After that shifting from 1-3 is awful, the transmission will try to go into 3rd but downshift to 1st then fail to go back into 3rd multiple times. This situation is extremely dangerous when trying to pull into traffic.
Oh and once the transmission gets into 3rd it will skip 4th and go right into 5th. There is only 94k miles on this transmission/truck.
I just bought this truck about a month ago, does this sound like an issue with the solenoids in the valve body?
I'm very mechanically inclined and can swap them if need be but now we're talking few hundred in solenoids and then getting the trucks pcm flashed right?
Also fluid has been changed and I used mercon lv.
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I have a 2000 F150 5.4l 4x4. When I am going over 50 on the highway and I am in OD, if I let off the gas a couple of seconds later it feels as though the brakes come on because the truck slow down so drastically and when I give it a little gas it slams into gear. It feels as like there is a "gap" where nothing is engaged before it slams back in. This is a rebuilt tranny with less than 7K miles on it. I took it back once and they said it was the motor mounts. I had those replaced and still the same problem. I replaced the spark plugs 6K miles ago and the COPs 3K ago. There is 170K on the truck. I only drive about 8K miles a year.
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I have a 2001 accent 1.6 5 speed manual. When I put it into reverse it dont fully engage until I give it some gas and then it slams into reverse with a bang. I am not really sure but I think it only does this with the car is cold I may be wrong though it started this a few weeks ago.
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I have a 2004 jetta gls wagon with a 1.8t. the car ran just fine and had a tune running 16psi strong. I changed the battery in it and now the car wont boost, bogs out and SLAMS hard from gear to gear ( auto 5 speed ). I don't have vag com. I just need to get the car to drive with out it. Even if i get back to factory tune im ok with it.
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I bought my 2005 automatic 4 speed Elantra knowing of this problem and feeling good about being able to track it down. how ever This did not stand to be the case. Start up cold shifts through every gear smooth as silk with know slippage or harsh shifts. roughly 10 to 15 mins after the car reaches operating temp on the gauge it begins to slam into 3rd gear only. Most of the time it is a double slam. Like bam bam real fast but indeed does shift into the 3rd gear then into over drive smoothly. I can duplicate it any time i desire to by merely pulling it back into 2nd gear and manually pushing the shifter back up to 3rd. it will slam every time with out fail. The man i bought it from told me he had this trouble and changed the transmission out with a 500.00 used one and did the exact same thing...
So I felt must be electrical wiring or TCM bad but upon examination i found no codes present to date. he threw parts at it and replaced both input and output sensors based off some thing he read on the net. also he said he replaced the TPS with a TPS from a wrecked car, still same harsh shift. he however could not remember how the fluid looked upon changing it and the filter as he also did that, nor can he remember what fluid type he used. I know shot in the dark right??? What is the actually fix such a hard slam when shifting into 3rd.
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I recently had my Transmission flushed at 90K (beyond the 75k). I had my Struts replaced and Full differential service. They found the Carrier bearing Center Ring was blown out said my truck was fine to drive until the part came in. I drove my truck home and it wasn't until I put about 20 miles on my truck did my truck start to slam into 2nd gear. It goes gentle if I accelerate slowly and eases with I turn the OD off ( but I only tried a few times). I have tried a few forums and there are so many things that it could be.
Everything was fine until I had this servicing and they took my truck apart. On a separate unrelated issue I have a check battery light on, but it is a brand new battery. I had my stereo changed out a year ago and the shop said it was the battery failing (only 1.5yrs old). Just though I would throw that in just in case a COMPUTER issue gets thrown out there. My truck has been running fine before all this SERVICING was performed...
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2011 F-150, 5.0L, SuperCab. I usually only report odd things about my vehicles only after my wife says something. Didn't think about it really until she complained, keep in mind she drives a Subaru with a "CVT" transmission that doesn't shift.
What I noticed is that when driving at low speeds, say parking lot speeds my F-150 seems to slams into 2nd gear. when it does this it feels like you slightly got shoved in the back. Is this normal, I know it's a truck and there is a lot of rotating mass and torque going on here. My previous truck a 2008 Chevrolet 2500 HD, 6.0L felt similar at low, parking lot speeds, it also had a 6-speed trans like this Ford. Just wondering if this is normal for this beast.
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Have this problem where Santa Fe when coasting in a parking lot or driving slowly on the road, that their is a bit of a slam into second gear in the auto transmission?
Reason I am asking this is that I have this problem and own a 2013 KIA Sorento, but understand the Santa Fe V6 shares the same motor and tranny. I also read that one long term test of the Santa Fe on the web had this very same problem, but in the end after happening several times, stopped happening.
After reading much info, I ordered a Transmission Temp Sensor as this seemed to work on some cars, but it's really a hit or miss thing.
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Drove my 02 VW golf GL to the airport, it sat there for 4 days, drove it back home. Next day I noticed that my 1st gear and reverse are very hard to get into. So I kept messing around with it and noticed that if I tried to put it slowly into first gear that there was no way in hell it would go, it felt like the gear was closed.
But if I put it into second gear and push it from second gear into first gear it goes back into first gear about 70% of the time. And it will also go into first gear if I push my stick down as if I'm attempting to go into reverse, and slowly move it into 1st gear.
The reverse is also very hard to get into it feels just like the 1st gear does when you try to do it slowly, it's like it's closed off/blocked. Latest work that was done to the car, replaced the clutch about 4-5 months ago.
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I have a 89 nissan fairladyz32 (300zx) and when i push the clutch peddle in it is very hard and i cant put it in 1 and reverse when it is running but when it is off i can just fine. but then if i put it in 1 gear before starting it and push the clutch in to start the car it lurches forward a little what could this be? and when i leave it to idle for to long it puffs smoke or at first start up? It has about 80,000 km.....
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I have a 2005 Ford Focus Man Trans, and am having issues getting it into first gear and into reverse. This happens most often when the car is cold. I am kind of wondering what it may mean before I take it in to have the issue fixed. It has 65 thou miles on it and I would think that I don't need a new trans already?
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I have an issue to where every once in a while my truck will not shift and when it does shift it slams into gear, and my overdrive light flashes and then I'll turn the truck off let it sit and crank it back up and it drives fine and the overdrive light is off. It shifts normal and smooth other than when this happens. Not sure if it is my torque converter or maybe a solenoid or what. My truck is an 07 f250 6.0 with 192,000.
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I have a 5 speed 99 Jeep Wrangler and when the car is running, it's extremely hard to put the car into first gear from a standstill. However, once it's in gear, shifting is fairly normal but still offers a little resistance. I feel like I have to wiggle it into gear. When putting the car in reverse from a standstill, the gears grind terribly.
Once the car is off, shifting is still difficult until I put it in reverse. Somehow, this "fixes" the problem and everything shifts smooth as a dream until I start the engine and then it's a 50/50 shot until it eventually fails later on.
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05 Honda Civic 5spd... 157k original miles, and I bought it new. 1-4th gear no issues. Reverse has always been hard to shift into and sometimes misses getting into gear, but the car has had that quirk since i bought it new in 05. Last month driving home I was cruising in 5th gear and the car just dropped out of gear into neutral. No gear grinding, no noticeable noises at all. just suddenly slowed down and when i went to grab the stick its was neutral.
Since then it did it a lot the following week, but now has stopped. I've talked to a few different mechanics and gotten a few different diagnosis. First the clutch. Another said the transmission, but "we might as well do the clutch since we have it in the shop". Now another mechanic says its just the clutch linkage bushing.Obviously I want the cheapest way to go, but at the same time I need to fix it right since its my only car.
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I have a 96 aurora that has been giving me alot of problems. It started with the car being real hard to start and very sluggish upon acceleration. I had an engine code of 0300 (multiple cylinder misfire) I had a full tune up as well as an intake manifold gasket done. This seemed to fix the problem for a short time. The problem then started again. this time i was told that it was a fuel pump so i went ahead and changed that as well. Again this fixed the problems for a short time. Now i am having the same problem again. I now have 2 engine codes 0300 as well as 0151(bank 1 sensor 2 o2 sensor) This started after it rained and i notice the problem always seems to be a little worse when its wet out. Also the car is really only hard to start when it has sat for awhile. m If i drive it and come back 5 minutes later it will start right up though it still idels really rough and has no acceleration. Can the o2 sensor be causing the misfires and if so will that make it hard to start. Also if i changed the fuel pressure regulator about a year ago.
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I had a problem with the CV Axle and the Wheel Bearings. I replaced them already and I ran into another issue with the Wheel Studs and the Ball Joint, so I ended up replacing them as well. Yesterday I put everything back together after replacing all the parts mentioned before and I made sure everything was bolted down and tightened, and then the tire back on and lowered the jack. I started up my car expecting it to drive just fine and it was harder to get into gear than before and it wouldn't move in reverse, neutral, or drive. I called a Monroe Muffler around here and they told me that the CV Joint is probably not seated all the way inside the Transfer Case.
So later the same day I took everything back apart and made sure that I put the CV Joint back into the Transfer Case and I put the pin back in and made sure that both CV Axles would turn at the same time, which they did. I figured it was good so I put it all back together again and went through the same process as before, making sure everything was tightened down, all the bolts and nuts and pins were where they needed to be. Everything seemed to be good. I put the tire back on again, lowered the jack, started the car and attempted to drive it again. It still won't move. Why this is happening.
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I have a 2005 Hyundai Elantra with approx 155,000 miles on it(I don't know if that matters). The car started ok at first. When I put it into reverse, I noticed that it was really hard to move the gear shift(which it's normally really easy). I put it back in park and let it sit for a minute thinking it just had to warm up a bit more.
When I tried it again, it was still hard to shift, but this time when it got into gear I heard a loud clunk. This scared me, so I put it back in park and turned off the car. Now it won't start. All of my lights(headlights, dashboard lights, radio) come on, but the engine won't turn over.
I don't know if any of the following is relevant but I'm putting it out here anyway just in case it is: The battery is only a year old(and since all my lights came on, I don't think it's dead)I had an oil change on Saturday. The belts were replaced a few months ago. My check engine light is on because of an O2 sensor.
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Tranny started acting funny recently...shifting hard into reverse at first, then last night it was like it was stuck in high gear or slipping on the way home. Limped it home and took the following codes:
P0743 TORQUE CONVERTER CIRCUIT ELECTRICAL
P0750 SHIFT SOLENOID A MALFUNCTION
P0755 SHIFT SOLENOID B MALFUNCTION
P0760 SHIFT SOLENOID C MALFUNCTION
P0765 SHIFT SOLENOID D MALFUNCTION
P0962 PRESSURE CONTROL SOLENOID A CONTROL CIRCUIT LOW
P0966 PRESSURE CONTROL SOLENOID B CONTROL CIRCUIT LOW
P0970 PRESSURE CONTROL SOLENOID C CONTROL CIRCTUT LOW
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Could my brake issue be related to my transmission problem? Neither are constant. Brake problem= sometimes the brake pedal feels hard, like there's no power brakes (I drove a car once. ..looong time ago. .. that had no power brakes or steering) but it will kick in after a short distance. Transmission prob= seemingly unrelated, is a problem shifting from 1st to 2nd gear. This has happened maybe a 1/2 dozen times, the first time and mostly when in heavy commute traffic and when going between 1st and 2nd gear because of the slow commute speed, but also at other times when not in lengthy slow commutes. When it doesn't shift, the odometer doesn't work (shows only dashes) and an engine light comes on (the sprocket/gear looking one). Usually the transmission will eventually shift and the light goes off.
I read that the brake problem might be a vacuum hose problem? Something about a booster? Is this dangerous? or is it like having a car w/ no power brakes? Going to have my transmission looked at this week. Read on another site about dropping valve seats on this year car. If there's a major transmission problem, I'm wondering if it's worth fixing? I changed, timing belt, water pump, front and rears brakes, tires. 143,000 miles.
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Background facts:
Tranny swapped from my 4 speed auto to a 1.8t o2j 5spd
13lb. Light flywheel
Powerflex dogbone mounts
Peloquin LSD
The problem: Very hard to get a smooth shift from gear to gear. Trust me, I know how to drive, but I can always feel the car shifting into a different gear if you know what I'm saying. On my friend's bone stock Jetta, I just let the clutch out without gas in between shifts and you don't feel a thing.
On my car, you feel EVERYTHING. People have told me the light flywheel will make the ride more uncomfortable in many ways, especially since the RPMs drop much quicker in between shifts than stock.
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