Golf IV / Jetta IV :: Hazard Button Wasn't Working
May 11, 2015
So I was driving just a second ago, stopped to get something and where I was parked I had to leave my hazards running. I had them on for a minute at most and when I got back in the hazard button was smoking. I turned it off and blew in the gap as much as possible.
The smoking stopped. Now neither my hazards or blinkers work. I haven't had a chance to check fuses yet. Wanted to see what people thought or if they'd had similar experience ASAP. Will update with finding when I can.
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I have a 2002 golf MKIV GTI and the hazard lights will flash whenever I pull the emergency break. Sometimes the emergency brake light won't go on when I pull it up but once the light engages the hazards will flash on, also I think it might have something to do with my car not shutting off sometimes. I will remove the key but the engine won't turn completely off unless I press the brake pedal but only if the emergency light is on is when that happens.
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My Jetta has had an off-and-on clicky turn signal sound without turn signals or hazard lights actually blinking. I put up with it for a while, but recently it's been more clicky than not. I'm aware this is a common problem. I had already tried the cleaner spray "trick" which made the problem worse if anything. Today, I removed my signal stalk as described here and gave it a cleaning. After re-assembling, the clicky problem didn't go away, and now the high beams are always on (even with the key out of the ignition, and the car isn't running). I temporarily dealt with this by pulling fuses 18 and 19 for high beams. It's an ok short-term workaround. Low beams still work fine.
I'm considering replacing the hazard signal relay, but a while ago I messed up while trying to use ghetto removal keys to pull my radio.
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Every once in awhile when I'm on the freeway, the hazard lights will flash and the doors will lock and unlock for about 3 seconds then stop.
The car is running normally other than this, except that the doors have stopped locking with the fob or the key itself. It is a 2001 2.0L L4 SOHC 8V.
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I have a 2003 santa fe and the blinkers are not functioning but the hazard lights are working fine. I checked the fuse and that is fine. Is there someway I can take apart the handle assembly where the switch for the blinkers are? Also, sometimes they would work and other times they wouldn't so that seems like a loose connection somewhere. The indicators for the blinkers on the dash do not work either so there has to be a problem giving power to the switch.
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A month ago, it didn't start out of the blue. When I went over to try to start it, it wasn't turning. Seemed like the battery died. It's under warranty so the dealer came and picked it up. They called the next day and said that it started without any issues.
Today, my gf made it to work, but when tried to start it again, it wouldn't start. She got it towed again. The dealer called and said they were able to start it without any problems. We told them that we had the problem and was concerned. Then they responded with they have to keep the car for a couple of days to do some testing. Now my gf is out of a car for the next two days.
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005634 - Power Supply Terminal 30
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Freeze Frame:
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Fault Priority: 2
[Code] ....
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I have myself a hatch stuck shut on my wagon. Wont open with the button and the key doesn't turn. The key fob was actually broken when I bought the car leading me to believe it happened while he tried to unlock the stuck hatch.
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Dropped my car off at Costco for a few hours (New Tires) and when I picked it up, the "unlock" key on my key fob failed to work. The Lock and trunk unlock keys work but the typical unlock (for the doors) doesn't work at all.
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My car has been in and out of my mechanics with no resolution to my problem.
When I press my AC button, a number of warning dashboard lights on my dashboard turn on, check engine, oil pressure, abs, air bag (pretty sure all of them). Each time this happens, I have my mechanic clear the warning lights in my dash. And no, the AC does not turn on.
I don't have any warning lights on my dash, and driving the car without pressing the AC button for weeks doesn't trigger any warnings. Once the AC is pressed, I get almost all of them, within a minute. The codes that his computer read are failure to communicate signals.
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When I press the star button on the rns-510 the annoying voice says, "route guidance is not available".
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As the title says the cruise control is not working, the cruise light comes on but no workee after pressing the the set button. I have followed the steps according the the owners manual.
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Mk IV Jetta. Central locking works fine. All other CCM functions are fine. Replaced CCM recently serial numbers match. When I hit the switch on the door nothing at all happens. When I use the key button the lights flash twice but no other activity. No broken wires between the body and the trunk lid. Actuator works when tested with a 9v battery.
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I put some 10mm hubcentric spacers from Avenue Autosport on the front of my car and got some slight vibration like the wheel wasn't centered very well. I decided to take them off to make sure they were the source of the vibration, and the car seems to ride a bit better/smoother in general without them (and the vibration when away).
I noticed that they didn't fit as tightly as my 15mm ECS spacers that I have in the rear, and my question is: are these spacers crappy in some way and I should order 10mm spacers from ECS, or are spacers in general not a great idea for the front wheels if you want your car to feel perfectly smooth and tight.
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My trunk doesn't seem to open electrically any more - that is, the button on the driver's side nor the button on the key fob will open the trunk. All I hear when I attempt either of these methods is a click near the fuse box. I do not hear the actuator at all. It worked intermittently for a few months, but now it seems to be completely dead. My google searches led me down two paths - either the actuator itself is broken or the wiring going from the latch to the actuator is messed up.
I removed the actuator from the trunk and tested it using a different power supply. It seems to work fine when I apply 12v through the leads. I also connected my multimeter to the connector that plugs into the actuator (the connector is hooked up to the wires coming from the front of the car). When I push the trunk button on my key, it spikes to 11v, then drops back to 0. To me, this indicates that there is no flaw in the wiring.
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2002 jetta AC only works if I turn on and then start car
1- get in car, push in AC button
2- start car
3- feel cold air
4- will blow cold forever (if car is running)
If I am driving and turn on, it does not work. Seems that it trys to come on, kicks compressor for maybe a second then waits 5 seconds and trys to kick again. The pressures are high but in green (OK), when I first saw this I added a little Freon , it did not change characteristic.
When it does not work the rad-fan comes on and blows, When it works the rad fan blows as it should.
This is a 4-cyl 2.0 GL and does not have climate control...
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I just bought a 98 passat sedan v6 four days ago. When I purchased it the turn signals and hazards were working. I was driving yesterday and they went out all of the sudden. Thought it was the fuse at first, changed it, still not working. I bought a turn signal flasher relay, but the repair manual doesn't tell me which one it is so I can change it.
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Recently my Infiniti G20's turn signals and hazard lights stopped working. I replaced the flasher relay and turn signal switch but it did not solve the problem. Here is the kicker or clue. The lights flash when locking or unlocking the car with the remote FOB.
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