Golf V R32 :: Car Not Sitting Level After Installing New Dampener
May 5, 2014
Installed a new dampener on the front passenger side. As soon as we lowered it off the jack it was higher. Pulled out of the driveway and lowered a bit, drove around the block settle a little more.
Now, three days later, it is still not level. Do I just need to keep driving it and let it settle? Will it not settle as low as the other because it is brand new and the rest of the kit is a year old? If so is the best thing just to just play with the other three corners till its level?
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Not driving the R as much now that I got a 2011 Triumph Street Triple R. I use as my primary transportation. But I had the car into the dealer this week for service and they said there is a rubber dampener on the driveshaft that is starting to crack and get loose.
I didn't get time to check out the car on the lift and have not had any problems with this shop in the past nor the mechanic who has ONLY worked on my car since new. The R now has 104K on it.
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06 F350 with diesel and 6000lb springs. Installed bds leveling kit and the truck sat level. Then i bought a plow and mounted it. Well after this year the nose is down a little bit so i decided to buy new springs. I upgraded to the 7000lb springs, icon adj trac bar and dual stabilizer set up. Truck is still nose diving. Is there something that could be binding up?
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I noticed my 16 ccsb 4WD lariat 6.2 was slightly leaning to one side in a parking lot yesterday. My driveway at home is dirt and far from level so I would never notice at home. So before I pulled out of the parking spot I got my tape measure out. I've got 41.5 inches from ground to top of wheel well on the drivers side rear. On the passenger side rear I've got 42.25 inches from ground to top of wheel well.
So darn it the truck is 3/4 inch leaning to the driver side. Is this normal? I can understand it not being exact to the millimeter however 3/4 inch seems to me like a lot of tolerance. The bed was empty when i measured and Air pressure in both rear tires is 70psi. I did pull a load with about 2,000 pounds tongue weight the other day however that shouldn't make any difference.
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2001 Ford F350 V10, 220K in crap condition
First of all on the left side 2 of the coils were so withered the rubber separated from the bolt and were loose. Without any tools I was able to remove 2 coils. Typically there is the hole and several inches inside hole is where the spark plug sits.
On cylinder 4 the spark plug is on a funny angle and is level with the hole or possibly poking up above the hole. Tried sticking the ignition coil over the spark plug but it wasn't correct. Leaving it alone until my cousin can take a look. Spark plug was tight but I didn't put a ratchet on it.
Wondering, is this the infamous spark plug blew threw the cylinder thing. Wish I would have taken a picture (I will next time I'm with truck).
Had codes for misfires on 4 cylinders but that was with 2 coils unplugged (way I got truck at auction)....I replaced 3 of them (1/2/6).Cleared codes...4th cylinder remained unplugged....And the only code I got after letting truck idle for 10 minutes was something about ignition coil D (which would line up with cylinder 4 I think).
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1998 Lincoln Town car will not sit level side to side. Was sitting lower on driver side with air bags , i went to coil springs and still has about 3 inch difference side to side . Driver side sits normal now and level with front but passenger side real high . Seems to be an equalizer that pivots on the 3rd member that keeps both sides moving together in anti roll motion . I wonder if it is splined and can be adjusted there ?
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So, yesterday I had my GLI in the shop to put a new timing belt on as well as some ECS Lightweight Pulleys. When I went to pick up the car, they did not install the pulleys. The reason they said was because the stock crank pulley has a dampener which keep vibration and balanced weight on the crank assembly and that the lightweight crank does not have these benefits.
So, now I have a set red anodized pulleys.. [URL].............
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I noticed I was a bit low on coolant and started looking around. Found a drip on the serpentine belt and harmonic dampener. The T-stat is dry and was replaced 1.5 yrs ago with a full flush. Both hoses are fine and there is no coolant near the steering assembly.
I am figuring it is coming from the water pump. I am planning to put in that Bulletproof water pump and Mishimoto silicon hoses. Anything else I should consider before I dive in. I'll put a new T-stat on since the coolant is drained and it is cheap $20 insurance. BTW hoses and water pump are original (7/05 build date).
Additional information - no spots on driveway (from coolant anyway) and single drop on the dampener. No mess anywhere else and I am down about 1/2 gallon - degas is almost empty.
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I installed the pierburg revised DV yesterday because my old DV was shot, squealing and leaking boost. After installing it I noticed that when i'm under around 15 psi and i let it build up that I get this flutter I didnt have before. I assume its the wastegate but I haven't heard it prior to installing the new DV so my fear is that its the valve no circulating and its putting the unused psi back through the turbo (not good).
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We were unable to upload the 2+ tune because his computer which has his APR info is under repair. My guess is that I am throwing a CEL because I upgraded the HPFP but do not have a tune for it yet. Who else has installed a HPFP before getting the tune?
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I have a 2013 gti. Lowering it in h&r super sports. I want some spacers to complete my look on the 50000km a year Car. Would 20mm spacers all around be to much?
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I'm interested in installing a staggered set of wheels on the R. The size I'm looking are 18x8.5 and 18x9.5. My question is what wheel sizes should I run to keep everything within spec of my Haldex unit? Ive read about staggered units having to be within 3 or 4% so nothing breaks down prematurely.
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Got my Magnaflow resonator in the mail today. Called up my exhaust shop and they are willing to tackle it but were wondering "where to cut" and "what about the internal baffles". Do you cut and shorten the center of the resonator by 7 inches or do you cut at one of the ends and shorten it from there 7 inches?
The picture I saw on TampaVW's thread shows it having been rewelded from the exit side (IIRC) but what about the internal baffles?
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So tonight I got the chance to install my H&R Rear sway bar on my car...let me start off by saying I was lucky enough to have a lift, air tools, all the correct tools, etc...now the frustrating part...i opened the box saw the bar and new bushings, figured this should be 100% straight forward 10 min job... the old bar came out in about 3 minutes...then I got the new bushings on the H&R Bar and went to put the factory brackets on...they wouldn't fit even close. Luckily I had a press so I pressed them on. Once I got the bar in the car I got the two top bolts started and could not for the life of me get the bottom two...its like they were 1/4in to low... Was I missing parts from H&R? also the factory caps/brackets seemed to sit off to the side of the new H&R bushings and there was no way to line them up straight, but I finally got everything on there..
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I noticed yesterday while driving the RX (not my daily driver) that when I turned on the A/C to bi-level (chest & feet) it only blew cold air at the chest level while at the feet level it was warm air. If I remember correctly from the past that the feet got cold too so I tried it with the vents only at the feet, still warm air. I even checked to make sure that I didn't have it on bi-level with defroster in use.
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I installed my LEDs put in the fog trigger wire, did the vag com, and on my dash the rear fog icon pops up. BUT no rear fog, I still have a bulb out message as-well. I've triple checked all of my wiring today, and did not see anything wrong. I've tried replacing the bulb.
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There is only one DIY i can find that is still alive. I have a megan short shifter. Its already half way in. I just don't have any instructions and i am kind of at a loss as to where i go from here. Does this shifter change the way my reverse gear will be engaged? I mean will i need to pull the trigger up to go in reverse or will i still push down? Does the spring that came with the kit go under the sleeve or above it? Sounds confusing.
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How to install rivets to the subframe and rails of the car I can't figure it out to save my life and it just says to put the ecs bolt and but rivet installer but it literally does nothing the rivet literally slides in and out am I missing something.
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Brand new bumper came in without screws and nuts, it's ready for painting but i need the right hardware. (photos are simply for reference)
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As far as I know the bottom needs 18 or so 5mm nuts and "u-nuts" that they screw into. And there's also the stock scoop, where to even start with screws on this one.
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