Honda - Odyssey :: 2010 - Vibrating While Braking At About 60 Mph
Sep 27, 2013
I have a 2010 Honda Odyssey with 71,000 miles on it. It was vibrating while breaking at about 60 mph so we went to a Sears Auto shop. They did a disc rotor refinishing and installed new brake hardware. The vibration continued and I went to Sears again and he assessed the problem and he said that rear brake rotors had to be installed. He asked me to bring it in tomorrow as he did not have the part. What is wrong with this picture.
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Our 2002 Honda Odyssey (158k miles) occasionally has a mild but definite shuddering/shake when I am going up a small grade. For example, I might be at a stop sign. Upon accelerating up a small grade (0 - 25 mph) the vehicle experiences a shuddering of some sort - hard to explain. It is not anything in the steering wheel - it is the vehicle itself. Not being a mechanic or anything, I want to say it almost feels as if the drive system is out of alignment and is vibrating until the moving parts align again. A broken engine mount??? It is front wheel drive - so no drive shaft and u-joints. CV Joints bad?
We've asked several mechanics - one a Honda certified technician - and nothing suspicious was found.
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Here's my question, my 2010 Honda Van, with 47,000 miles, shimmies when I apply the brakes at 60-65mph. No other time. When I apply the brakes at that speed (very gently, I might add), the van feels like the front end is bouncing around. It doesn't do this at any other speed.
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Our 2010 Honda Odyssey has been making a whining noise for some time now. It seemed to me that it was clearly the power steering pump.
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My wife drives a 2010 Honda Odyssey. Yesterday she told me that last week it started making occasional sounds like metal scraping. I heard it today and it sounds like a chain dragging, or something going on in the wheel. The sound lasts for less than a minute, and is then gone. The sound changes pitch/frequency with speed. It only happens with the car in motion, and only after it's been driving for awhile. It sounds like it's coming from one of the left side wheels.
There are only 36,000 miles on the car. We live in Northern California where the climate is mild and there's never salt on the road. I'm wondering if this model has problems with wheel bearings, or something else.
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We have a 2010 honda Odyssey and we are experiencing some air conditioning problems. The ac went out on us about 6 months ago so we had the compressor replaced. A few weeks after that the ac would intermittently start blowing warm air. We took it back to the shop and they noted that the compressor was shutting off for some reason. They replaced the compressor again, but we are still experiencing the same problem. It will just start blowing warm air for about 15-20 minutes then it will start blowing cold again. This will happen about once every 2-3 days. We replaced the relay, but that didn't work. They have checked for leaks, recharged the compressor and checked the freon and still nothing.
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My 2010 Honda Odyssey EXL recently began making a whining noise that seems worse when turning the steering wheel. When in the shop for routine maintenance a few weeks ago they noted a leaking power steering suction hose although at the time it was not making any noise. Is this a likely cause? Unsure what it was I tried spraying belt dressing on the serpentine belt and it seemed to work. There was no whining for a couple days. Now it's back.
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When I brake, there is almost an exhale sound. It's kind of a squeak, kind of an exhale. We've had it in to the dealer (under warranty) twice, and they said it's not a problem. I remember something about holding the brake pedal and adjusting it to the side.
I have a 2010 Honda Pilot with about 9,000 miles, but I think the radio question was about another car.
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Lately my 2007 GX470's steering wheel has a shaking/vibrating problem whenever I apply the brake at speed above 50 mph or so. Without braking or with braking at slower speed, there is no problem at all -- everything is glass smooth.
1. I assume the front brake rotor is warped?
2. Will I need to change the rotor or is there a way to fix the warp (it that's the problem) without changing the rotor?
3. Approximate part & labor cost?
I plan to bring to dealer for a check up but would like to know ahead of time what to expect.
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I own an 08 Rx350 at 70k miles now. This is my first car ever; my parents bought it brand new and gave to me as gift after I graduated from college. I try to take good care of it; whatever the dealership tells me to replace, I replace it. I follow the maintenance schedule and owners guide to a T. I never really paid attention when my parents drove this car...but I don't know why my car vibrates when I get maybe above 60 mph and try to apply the brake. I do not brake hard and now I pretty much avoid applying brake and just let it glide. Is this normal? Whenever I visit the dealership they do a complete check up. All the check up results are normal;nothing wrong with tire trims, brake pads, suspension etc.
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1997 Civic HX, runs great, no motor issue....more like driveline.....Recently picked up a vibration, it just got much worse. My thought is there's a bad CV joint, but I can't find much play.....Was vibrating at 60mph, let of the gas & it goes away.....now, vibrates from the word go as if somethings out of round, if I coast, I now get a thunk/thunk/thunk until I ease back on the gas, then it vibrates. Braking.....out of gear...thunk/thunk/thunk hardcore, braking while in gear I get nothing but less vibes.....Steering wheel does not shake, 4 brand new tires, brakes seem fine.......CV JOINT?? or Something internal?
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I believe the condenser has leaked out. IS it safe to replace or do I need to take it in to flush out any residual freon? Just want to be safe.
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Just got a new battery for my 2002 Honda Odyssey on Friday. I did not drive the car Saturday or Sunday, Monday morning it faintly sounded like it would start but then would start clicking. After several attempts it started. I drove about 3 miles to drop my kids off at school and it started right up when I left the school. Should I take it back to where I got my battery or will it be fine if I don't let it sit for days without starting?
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I own a 1999 Honda Odyssey with 130,000 miles. Over the past 6 months I've spent $1600 on routine repairs (brakes, alignment, battery, struts, shocks, etc). Now it's stalling out while driving. The maintenance light flashes followed by a "green key" light, then it stalls out when I'm driving under 30 mph. It does start right up afterwards. The Honda people recommend replacing a worn "ignition lock cylinder" for $700. They ran it for 130 miles and physically banged it on the underside of the steering column to make the car stall out. Should I invest this $700 on this car? Do I need to replace the ignition lock cylinder? I'd prefer to keep the car for another 2-3 years, or do I junk it now before repairs start piling up?
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The heater fan runs fine. Cold air comes out of all the vents (defroster, floor, dash). There is plenty of coolant in the system, and my mechanic advises the engine is running at the correct temperature. The heater hoses at the firewall are warm/hot as if coolant is flowing through. Flushed the heater core (but that didn't fix the problem). My mechanic now wants to drill some holes in the duct work to see if there is a mouse nest or some other obstruction.
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2000 Honda Odyssey - CEL came on a couple of days ago and I took it to get the code read. The reader says it can't link up with the ecu. Tried the same reader on another car and it worked fine. The transmission was rebuilt last year (about 9 mo. ago) and I'm concerned that something was not hooked up right during the rebuild. Is this a possibility for the non-linking of the reader to the ecu? Also, last year, before the tranny rebuild, I had a reader hooked up to the ecu and it worked fine.
As a side note, the TCS light comes on sometimes after starting the car and won't turn off. If I restart the car it will turn off and work properly. I imagine this is related, but not sure since I can't read the code for the CEL.
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My sister unknowingly grabbed her Honda Odyssey car key and used it to start and drive her Honda Civic. She didn’t realize what she’d done until she had trouble taking the key out of the ignition after driving the Civic. Now we’re wondering about these car keys and security.
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When I had my oil changed, I was told that a "Main Bolt" needed to be replaced because it was starting to leak oil. He said that there was a sealant of some type on it that was wearing away and that even though I see no evidence of an oil leak, I would soon. He said that one of the axles would have to be removed to replace it.
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My 2004 Honda Odyssey shakes when I am pressing on the gas and going 22 to 25 miles per hour and also around 45 miles per hour. It shops once I pass those speeds. could it my the Torque converter?
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I have a 2003 Odyssey minivan that shudders when going through the speedzone of around 40mph. It does not occur when I put it in '3' (so prevents transmission from selecting Overdrive), so I suspect it has something to do with shifting in to OD. We have replaced the engine mounts on this car.
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I accidentally put the key from my 2008 Honda Odyssey into the ignition of my 2004 Honda Odyssey, and now the key won't come out! How to get the key out? I tried jiggling the steering wheel, jiggling the key, disabling the battery, unlocking the gear shift and putting the car in and out of park, but nothing even remotely loosens the key.
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