Hyundai Santra :: ABS Trying To Engage When Braking At Low Speed
Jun 25, 2011
I have a 2005 Hyundai Santa Fa 4 wheel drive. I bought it used a year an a half ago. It has 106, 580 miles. Since purchasing I have had problems with the ABS wanting to engage when I am braking at low speeds. It doesn't always happen, seems worse when first starting in the morning and when the weather is wet/humid (?). I can feel something in the brake pedal, tap it lightly to disengage. No warning lights come on. I took it to the dealer. They did a diagnostic and showed nothing wrong with the ABS, however they said I needed rear brake rotors. They replaced pads and rotors. In the process the caliper bolt seized and needed to be extracted by a third party.
When I picked up the car the mechanic said the brake line was very dirty with lumps in it and should be flushed soon. Driving away from the dealership I still had the same problem with the ABS. They told me to have the brake line flushed. The dirt and lumps could be causing air pockets which is making the ABS think it needs to engage when the system does its self diagnostic test.
A week later I had the brake line flushed. The ABS system continues to try to engage. I know I needed brakes and the brake line flushed but I still have my original problem.
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Bought a Sonata Limited with 5500 miles on it from local dealership. Soon after I noticed that the cruise did not always engage. Problem is that when I brought it in for service, no one was able to duplicate the problem. What to do?
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My wifes 2011 Hyundai Sonata would not start yesterday at the clinic. I purchased a new battery went there today to replace the battery. Before I started the work I tried starting the car. When I turned the key to the on position the radio came on and the dashboard lit up like normal. As soon as I turned the key to start the car the battery went completely dead. The starter did not engage and the electrical went out.
I replaced the battery. When I turned the key to the on position nothing turned on. Not the radio or any of the dashboard lights. I tried starting the car and there was not response, exactly like a dead battery. I purchased a new battery and they tested it right in front of me before giving it to me so I feel like I can rule out the battery.
I double checked that he connections were tight. I tried jiggling the shifter, pushing the brake pedal, jigging the steering wheel around, jiggling the key in the ignition. The positive battery terminal connector has a fuse, it appears to be intact. I also checked the fuse panel in the engine compartment. All of the large fuses are intact (I only looked at the 3 or 4 of the large ones that were visible from the top). I didn't check the smaller fuses, I wasn't sure which ones to check.
A little background;For a couple days in a row my wife was noticing that the car was struggling to start (she didn't mention this to me right away). I noticed that when we were driving it the head lights had a very suttle flicker. When were idling at a stoplight it appeared as if the lights were dimming and getting brighter rapidly. I noticed it from the reflection of a license plate and dismissed it as maybe just the wind causing the license plate on the car ahead of us to wobble. It was suttle and not very pronounced. Yesterday my wife went to the clinic and when she was leaving the car would not start. Someone try with jumper cables but she was not able to get it started. Even after letting it sit for 5 minutes before trying to start it.
My buddy thinks it's the ignition switch itself, but that sounds quite a bit beyond my capacity. I suspected that since the lights were fluttering/dimming that it was an alternator problem. Even if the alternator is bad wouldn't the car still run on a fresh battery?
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I have a Hyundai Tuscon 2005 with 140K automatic transmission. Original Owner and has treated me well. Current issue is the transmission will not engage in reverse or park immediately when shifted most notably first thing in the morning or in the late evening after sitting for a while. It acts as if it is in neutral until it engages after revving the engine for a while. Once it engages, it is a little sporadic for a few minutes and then all is fine for the rest of the day no matter how many times I start, stop or turn the car on or off.
Runs like a champ until the next morning and it starts all over again. A couple of times the check engine light has come on and I can tell that the transmission is stuck in 3rd gear. I can't manually get it to go up to 4th or down to 1 or 2. I can clear the code and then all is back to normal again with normal shifting again available. Short of a transmission rebuild (whihe probably won't happen) could it be electronic in nature since it comes and goes?
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On my daily commute in stop-and-go traffic, on a bridge, headed downhill, suddenly neither the accelerator nor the brake pedal would engage in my 2008 Elantra. Cars in front of me had sped up, then ground to a halt, and I was coasting downhill toward them, at a pace too fast for the handbrake to stop me. I couldn't downshift either (the car has automatic transmission, but shifting to low lets the engine slow you down). With nothing else to try, I shut off the ignition and then turned it on and, amazingly, all was back to normal. The dealer didn't find any trouble codes in the computer so they say the car must be OK to drive. But I don't feel safe driving the car. This might have happened and what I can do to fix it?
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I own a Hyundai Santa Fe thats reaching 70,000 miles. I had my brakes and rotors looked at a month ago and they said its getting low but im good for a couple months.
Now I have this weird noise that sounds like as if my tire is flat almost. Its a rubbery creaking noise coming from my front passenger side tire area. I alternated between using the e-brake and regular brakes and the noise only occurs when using the regular brakes at slow speeds, coming to complete stops and turning as well as going over bumps occasionally.
The video attached, the noise occurs at the end when I have the camera on the tire. Its louder than that usually, but I recorded the video in my driveway.
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I have a 2010 Hyundai Sonata with 88,400 miles and I am hearing a knocking noise in my rear right wheel whenever I apply light to medium pressure to my brakes (I don't hear anything when I brake hard). It started a year ago and I heard it throughout the summer. But in the winter, I didn't hear anything. Now that it's getting warmer again, the noise is starting to come back. I've taken it to my mechanic numerous times and he doesn't know what it is. I had my brake pads and rotors replaced just before the noise started a year ago. Here is a video of what the noise sounds like (this isn't me, but the same scenario
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I have uneven pad wear on the front discs. The passenger side has about 1/8" pad left, while the driver's side is almost new. The car pulls to the passenger side on braking.
I've had a bad hose on a different car which caused a caliper to lock (and actually lit the pads on fire!), but both calipers are moving when the brakes are applied.
What I'm trying to figure out is how to determine which side and component is defective. It seems to me that a partially blocked hose or iffy caliper on the driver's (unworn) side could cause it to have low power. How do I diagnose this?
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First off I want to say I love my 11 f350 6.3 srw she's a awesome truck. I pull a small 7x14 trailer for my biz..
(3600-400) is the usually weight, I always use my tow feature. One day last week I start out hit my button in go, but I notice the engine braking/down shifting wasn't working. The trans still shifts smooth n normal the light is on the dash but no tow engage.
I check the transmission wire plug to make sure it'd getting a good connection, it does. I take the rubber boot off next to the shifter look at those wires they look ok not pinch or nothing, so I'm stumped.
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I'm having an issue with my transmission. When driving it shifts just fine, but I have to let it accelerate slowly. If I press to hard on the accelerator pedal the engine ron races. So I ease up and it catches and slowly accelerates. For example going up hill, I press the accelerator and the car doesn't speed up, the engine races, so I have to just let the car slowly increase in speed by lightly pressing the gas pedal, no get up and go! Only occurs in 4th and 5th gears. What could be causing this. I have already flushed the gear oil as I had to replace the output shaft seal as it was leaking.
2000 Hyundai Accent 5 Speed Manual Transmission....
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I came off the turnpike the other day stopped at a light and my car, 2006 Hyundai Elantra 175000 miles, started rolling backwards. I put my foot on the gas and there was no movement. Put the car and park and it wouldn't start. I pushed it into a gas station and the attendant (attendant, not mechanic there was no service station) changed the oil and added some coolant. The car then started up fine and I was able to drive a quarter mile to work. When I was driving home I immediately noticed that there was a change in acceleration. It takes forever for the car to speed up... Pedal to the floor and it is lagging greatly. It seems to be going up to 4500 rpms just to reach 40 mphs at a slow pace. Once the car gets up to 60 mph the rpms drop to normal. I haven't gone faster than 60 mph in it since this happened, but it seems to handle fine at that speed. The issue is getting up to that speed. I don't know if it is related, but the air conditioning is very weak since all this happened. I have to turn it off when I'm accelerating now. I've been planning on buying a new car soon, but I want this one to last just a little while longer.
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I have a 2011 Hyundai Sonata GLS with 65k miles...it has a 2.4 liter motor (4 CYL), auto transmission. The car currently has 205-65-R16 tires on it with a 95H speed rating. They all have worn down to the wear bars so it's time for replacement.
On my previous cars, I've always had Uniroyal Tiger Paw touring tires because I love how they ride. I found the same tire size for my Sonata. However it has a different speed rating...95T.
The only difference is the letter "T".
EDIT: It currently has Nexen N5000 tires and I bought the car with these tires already on....crappy tires...worn down in only 30k miles.
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I have a 2006 Hyundai Sonata that squeaks when I turn left while in motion. It squeaks regardless of the degree of the turn but is more noticeable at slower speeds. The squeak isn't a screech so I don't think it's a belt. it isn't a grinding noise either. More like a "squeak, squeak, squeak." Seems to squeak with the rotation of the tire.
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My car is an 08' camry LE v6. I bought it with 45,000 miles on it and I've had this issue since I got it, put 10k miles on it with no change. When I am going 55mph+ or going downhill the car vibrates when I brake, the steering wheel shakes pretty violently. It doesn't seem to affect the stopping power and it's perfectly smooth at low speeds. I don't think it's a wheel balance/alignment issue because it's only when braking, even at 80mph this car is the smoothest ride I've ever had.
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I replaced the pads and rotors on the front end of my 2002 maxima (it had a shudder when braking from speed). By mistake, I did loosen the spindle nut, but re-tightened it. Braking is smooth, but I am plagued by noise. Used CRC on the back of the pads, have pulled the tires/wheels 3-4 times looking for looseness, mistakes, etc…. This is a pretty simple job – right? Even had the front wheel off my other 2002 (yes – I have 2…love this year/model) and compared them.
Did I cause an issue with the loosening and re-tightening of the spindle? Is this just a spline? I have it “wrench” tight and it had not loosened up even with 500 miles driving. There is not any play in the wheels mounted to the axle… What do I need to look at next?
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I filled up my car three day ago and ever since then its been shaking when I brake and when I speed up and pretty much any time the car is moving. Why its doing this I just had it in the shop two weeks ago for a full check up. What the issue could be?
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2000 Hyundai Sonata 2.4 L engine, transmission drops from 4th gear to 3rd gear at cruising speed (65mph) and locks into 3rd gear, I have to stop and turn the key off and start the engine again to reset the A/T what do you think is happening?
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2010 RX 350 NAP ... Brand New and OEM where it would apply : Tires (Conti's LX20s)
Brakes / Rotors (had same shake before replacing and did not improve after replacement but maybe I am dealing with a bad caliper here)
Tie Rod Ends
Stab Links
Lower Control Arm Ball Joint
None of which have solved a vibration issue thus far. Strut feels solid and the corner push test had the car settle out in less than 2 bounces.
If car has sat a while the driver front (where the issue lies) feels like a imbalanced tire/bent rim (rotated the wheels just to be sure it didn't follow the wheel/tire) or like a broken belt. The tires are almost brand new and only put them on because I was trying to eliminate the point of issue.
When braking, a light touch to the brake pedal makes a almost light clank sound (like weight shift is causing the clank or perhaps a sign of a bad caliper (although pad wear looks even but didn't have rotors rechecked but even with brand new rotors it was there so I don't feel it's a warped rotor plus the vibration is there even when not applying the brakes.
There is only one control arm and the bushing didn't look cracked beyond the normal surface cracking I have seen on most rubber bushing. The upper support is from the strut so perhaps a bad strut or maybe strut support/cap/bearing?
At a total loss as the local garages cannot find anything wrong. My thought was a bad wheel bearing, although there is not any grinding sound that you typically hear when a hub is going bad.
Could also be the CV Joint but not sure how to tell if that really issue the issue unless I replace all the other parts first (hub, caliper, strut/support/bearing).
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What causes my (front) brakes to squeal when i brake at a low speed? Is there a fix besides replacing?
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Bought my Prius (2005, with 160K miles) about a month ago and since I've had it I am hearing a metal on metal grinding noise when braking at low speed. How loud the sound is depends on how hard I am on pushing on the brakes. One of my co-workers has the same model and said that his does not make that sound. Not sure if its just because it has after-market brake pads or something? This noise only occurs when braking at low speeds (below 10 MPH) so I assume its an issue with the front brakes.
Is this something I need to get looked at by the dealership? I had a local mechanic that worked on my old Honda beater take a look and he said that the rotors and brake pads looked new and wasn't sure why they'd make noise.
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My Phaeton has recently developed a single clunking sound that occurs at low speed, either when braking, or when turning the steering wheel towards the right about 90. The clunk can be felt at the drivers footwell area too.
All four upper control arm bushings were replaced a few months ago and the antiroll bar links are pretty new too.
I have not identified exactly where the noise is coming from, but by placing my hand on all suspension components it seems that the clunk is most felt at the front left rear lower arm. Hence I am wondering if the bushing or the whole arm may need replacement.
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