Intrigue :: Brakes Are Not Working On Passenger Rear / Driver Left
Nov 29, 2011
1998 olds intrigue, 3800, auto, 4 wheel disc. Spongy breaks (ABS/Trac/Check engine/service engine soon). Friend brought her 'new' car over the weekend complaining about breaks feeling spongy.
First looked at the car and noticed the driver front passenger rear rotors had a lot of rust. They were also cool to the touch, odd after a 20 mile trip. The driver rear speed sensor has been repaired, and was unplugged.
The breaks are not working on the passenger rear, driver left. There is not any pressure at all at the calipers, and the rusty rotors show this.
Put the car on jack stands and with breaks depressed, the driver front/passenger rear wheels spun freely.
checked break lines/fluid, no obvious leaks.
I tried bleeding from the valve assembly attached to the master cylinder, and got only fluid out of the one bleeder, but not the other one. Could this be the master cylinder causing this, or the other assembly?
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The bleeder on the right had nothing, the bleeder on the left that had fluid/pressure.
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I notice the A/C wasn't working...drivers side never got cold like the passenger's side. I took the car in and they're telling me all A/C components work and none leak. Tells me my controller cannot set the range properly to close the driver's side door to be able to blow cold air like the passengers. He mention there is a bulletin out regarding the air duct/door warping over time resulting in this condition.
99 intrigue with auto climate control
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My 2006 Sonata has an on again/off again problem with the left rear brakes getting very hot... Took it to my mechanic and of course the problem never manifested itself there and all checked out fine... Got to work last night and I could smell it as soon as I stepped out of the car and and the drum is glowing cherry red...
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I have a 2005 Toyota Camry that we purchased 14 months ago. When purchased it had bad brakes so the dealer replaced the rotors and calipers at their expense. A month ago I took the car in for a routine oil change and was notified that my rear calipers were stuck open and that my rear brakes were not working and rusted. The rotors look hardly worn, the one on the passenger side has some deep grooves in it and the driver side is pitted. We feel that we had poor work done when the brakes were replaced and that the back never worked. After the brake job was done we would get some "chinging" noise in the back brakes and I had them inspected twice and they said everything was fine. But now we find out they weren't fine.
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99 F-250 Ext cab 4x4 7.3 285,000 miles.
I got home today opened my door and got snaked in the face with the smell of brakes. I got out of the truck then I heard the drivers side rear brakes popping as they are cooling down. I reached down to touched the wheel and it's crazy hot. Opened the garage and went to retrieve the infared thermometer. The rotor/caliper was 350 degrees, hub was 150 degrees, axle tube was 90 degrees.
I took the wheel off and inspected stuff. The rotors do have some heat spots, the caliper visibly looks okay but not 100%. The pads look like even wear. I am guessing that the caliper either is hanging up or I have a wheel bearing going? The passenger side was like 80 degrees on everything. There is a slight shimmy while driving which to me feels to me like the beginning of warped rotors. I don't hear anything to me that screams wheel bearing noise wise.Brakes or bearings?
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Just had a new issue pop up - sometimes, when making a sharp left turn when the engine RPM is low (going into driveway, turning at a stop sign), the engine will suddenly die. It seems to be running fine otherwise, it does not idle rough, and the idle RPM is around 600-700. It never dies on the highway or higher speeds, yet anyway.
I do notice that my power steering pump is making a little noise. It is an aftermarket pump. The steering assist seems to work fine though.
I recently had the spark plugs, valve cover gasket, and a fuel pressure sensor replaced. As I understand it, the mechanics checked the fuel pump and it was working fine.
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2000 3.5L
On a hard left high speed turn, it vibrates under load. Also while under throttle when making a second gear left hand turn.
Noise will come and go when going over dips at high speeds under load. I have already replaced the left Half shaft.
I am a master mechanic and have had success with changing a half shaft on a similar situation. Looking for other possibilities before I throw another half shaft at it.
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A while back as I was driving, I heard some sort of clunk, and the steering wheel locked and would not turn left. It then unlocked after a few seconds. Ever since then, it has been very hard to turn to the left (and right, at slow speeds and on sharp turns, but much easier than turning left). This happened a few days after I replaced both front end struts and inner tie rod ends, and got an alignment - they were cheap quick struts (entire assembly), but seem to be of fairly good quality.
Initially after some consultation I thought it was the power steering pump, so I replaced that. It became easier to turn right, but still very hard to turn left. I took the front end off the ground and turned the wheel all the way left and right, no problem or resistance. I am nearly certain it is not the pump.
At this point, I am fairly certain it is either the steering gear or some part of the rack and pinion. I am planning on getting the assembly replaced. The fastest and cheapest way is apparently to just buy the entire steering gear/r&p assembly. Would bad strut mounts ever cause an issue like this? Any other possibilities besides the steering linkage?
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My front left fog light has stopped working, yes i did check the bulb and they are good, I actually went ahead and got a test light and tested if there was any power coming from the plug and there isn't why would this be? the right side is working perfectly fine...
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Recently I noticed that my passenger and drivers side tail lights do not get brighter when I hit the brake. However, the center LED lights still are functioning properly. What might be wrong and how to fix it? I thought it might be the break light switch based on what I have read, but I would imagine that the center LED lights would be messed up too if that was the problem.
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I have a 2002 Olds Intrigue. It has two problems ...
(1) When I'm driving down the road, the dashboard lights / headlights will dim & then brighten; dim & then brighten. I feel just a little bit of lag in the gas peddle, but it has never stalled on me. It has had two new alternators installed since I've had it, along with the battery replaced a couple of times.
(2) In March, I got stuck in a snowbank. The car has a feature called "Traction Control". Ever since I managed to get myself "unstuck", my dummy lights on the dashboard go crazy -- Trac Off / Anti-Lock Brakes / Service Vehicle lights all come on and stay on. And, the car will make funky noises when I creep to a stop OR try to take off from a stop ... feels like the traction control is trying to work because of the noise (usually what it sounds like if I hit a patch of ice in the winter, but there's no ice this time) ... and the brake / gas peddle vibrate ... sometimes I have to stomp on the brake in order to make the car stop. My mechanic has tested the car / checked it for error codes / had replaced the brakes prior to the problem ... nothing shows signs of wear or fault.
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I Recently purchased a Phaeton. However just the other day I found out the left rear passenger door speaker (the large one) is blown.
The dealer also has another Phaeton on the lot. The difference between the two is my vehicle has the upgraded sound system while the one at the dealer does not.
I was wondering if the two speakers from the two cars are the same or if they're interchangeable.
My vehicle is a 2006 while the dealer's is an '05.
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Took truck out for a ride and stopped for gas. I smelled Brakes and upon inspection found the left rear brake pads were not releasing. Any take on what could be holding it? 2008 F-250.
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So today, at a red light, i let off the brakes- I feel and hear a loud pop from the passenger rear. My first reaction, whatever brakes stick, happens.
Then it did it again, then again, a bit louder and a more dramatic feeling. It's my only driver as my TT is out right now in the body shop.
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I can usually track these down, but this one is eluding me. It seems to be coming from the rear passenger side and really only bad when turning left or veering left at slow speeds.
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My passehger side front turn signal does not work. I am not getting power to the turn signal part of the bulb everything else works running light cornering light ect. except no power at the plug for the turn signal that plugs into light bucket assy. The arrow in the dash blinks fast as if the bulb was blown, getting power to the rear but not the front....
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My left rear window motor has not worked for several years. Suddenly several weeks ago the window just dropped. I knew the regulator had failed so I replaced the regulator and the window still was not working up or down. I ran 12 volts to the new motor and it works . I removed the master switch and disassembled and cleaned up still nothing. Ordered new master switch still nothing. All other windows work. Checked power coming out of the switch and it is there. Tried testing current at the motor plug and only get power on one leg. The confusing thing is that the wires that have power with the switch on up and down are not the same color at the rear door making me think the wires go elsewhere before going to the back door.
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I just put rear brakes on my 2008. The parts fit fine but the passenger side runs hot. Very hot after just five miles.
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I have been doing my own brakes for years. I have had some that were not easy to keep from squealing but this one has me wanting to get rid of the car. We have a 2008 Dodge Magnum R/T package. Roughly 38K miles on the car. When the car reached around 10K miles the rear passenger wheel would squeal when you applied the brake. Rotor surface was smooth as glass. I took off the rear rotors only and had them turned. Problem went away for about 5K miles. Then the fronts started squealing.
I replaced the fronts because hte factory did not leave any material to be turned and noted that Dodge glued the pads to the calipers like they would never need to come off. Problem went away for a little while. Then it came back with a vengeance. I replaced the pad material on the fronts with ThermoQuiet pads from Raybestos. Problem is coming back again and now I cannot tell which end of the car it is even coming from because it it so loud. My wife drives this car very carefully. My thought is she is polishing the rotors too smooth and this is our source of noise.
We are at the point of squealing again and I am at my wits end with this. If I light foot it, no noise. If I stop like I think it should be stopped, not killing it, the noise is there. If I stop very quickly about 3 to 5 times in a row the noise is gone for a little while until the pads cool and then it is back even if I am on the same journey.
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The uneven wear occurred again, this time only giving me 22,644 miles on the rear brakes. So, I am on my third set of rear brakes at 78,000 miles.
This time the dealer contacted the district rep since this was a repeat occurrence. It turns out a week after my first rear brake job, Toyota issued T-SB-0248-12, for this very problem, on the 2010 - 2012 Prius and on the 2012 Prius PHV. There is a new brake pad that is supposed to address this problem. The old part number that was put on my car during the first brake job was 04466-76011 and the new part number is 04466-47080. The receipt also shows Brake Shim Grease part number 08887-80409, which is noted in the TSB.
Toyota did the right thing in that they covered the cost of the brake job I just had done. I just opened a case asking to be reimbursed for the first brake job since this turned out to be a problem that was addressed with a new part.
I suggest anyone with a 2010-2012 Prius or 2012 Prius PHV that needs rear brakes, make sure you insist on getting this updated pad and point out this TSB. My service adviser said they were going to replace all of their pads with the old part number with the updated pad, so other customers going forward receive this new pad, though he also said they just don't do a lot of Prius brake jobs.
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Car: 2014 Prius, basic model
Symptom: Only rear left electric window and electric lock are not working. They are not responding to driver side control or remote key control. Electronics on other 3 doors function normally.
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