My Lincoln LS 2004 V6 3.0 has check engine light flash. It says the Engine Cylinder 1 and 2 misfired with computer scan. I know the cylinder 1 is in the front of passenger side, but I do not know where the cylinder 2 is. If it is in the rear of cylinder 1 on passenger side, and I want to change the cylinder 2 ignition coin pad, do I need to remove the engine part on top it?
View 14 Replies1997 Ford Ranger with 190K miles has check engine light on with P302 computer code, meaning misfire on cylinder 2. Engine runs rough at idle only once it warms up, which only takes a minute. It is usually fine while driving, but it's a lot easier to feel a misfire at lower RPMs than at higher ones. Added fuel injector cleaner to gas for a couple tanks, no change. My mechanic has checked spark plugs, fuel injector, o2 sensor, and everything is ok. Dry compression test shows good compression. He thinks it may be a valve sticking, which means a valve job: expensive. Is there anything else that can be done? Why is there no misfire when it is first started?
View 9 RepliesPurchased a used 2005 Prius with 30,000 on the clock. Have put 5,000 miles on the car with no problems. Recently the check engine light came on and my Scan Gauge indicated a trouble code of "P0000". Cleared the code and four days and 500 miles later the check engine light returned with the same code. Car runs great even with the light on. Have check the fuel cap which was and is tight.
View 2 RepliesI bought my Jetta almost a year ago, and I've been constantly replacing parts. Unfortunately, my engine misfired twice and the CEL has come on for P0420 which is inefficient catalyst. This is the only code being thrown. I've cleared it like 10 times, but it keeps popping up.
View 9 RepliesI have an 03 Lincoln LS V8 136000 miles. Just bought it in mid June and it was throwing P0420 and 430. I changed out the Coils and plugs and that seemed to do the trick. Before I was getting about 18.5 mpg and after it went up to 22 mpg. Well this lasted for about 250 miles (about a week). Now I have developed a really bad miss on #7,and a sometime flashing CEL, changed out the coil, no change. My question could this be a fuel problem? I did have one thing strange thing happen before I did the coils and plugs. I was just pulling on to the on ramp stepped on the pedal and it was like some one turned the car off nothing let off the gas and it was still idling tried again nothing, pulled off to the side. turned it off and restarted and it was fine??? Plus the fact it seems now that I my have to do the solenoid in the tranny grabbing during shifts.
View 4 RepliesI own a 2002 SC430 with 20,200 miles on it which I purchased new. The other day the check engine light came on. I checked it with the code reader and got the following 2 codes. P0300 (random multiple misfired detected) and C1201 (engine control system malfunction). The car ran great before, now running real ruff and when you drive it has less power.
View 9 RepliesScan gauge II keep going blank !
View 4 Replies2005 f350 6.0, parked in my shop and the batteries were dead after 2 weeks on vacation, (I left a few items plugged into 12vdc ports charging) charged it up and started right up. Next day cruising down the road about 75 the wrench icon showed up, strange. I reviewed my scan gauge and only thing not correct was my boost, it was 20lbs plus, idles at 14lbs. dash gauge appears normal.
Next morning I turned on the key, turned on my scan gauge engine is not running and the reading show 14.4lbs on my scan gauge. so..... adding the 14.4 to the scan gauge reading thru the drive cycle. so my computer thinks it is seeing 20-30 boost during acceleration. A bad sensor......... but don't know which one.
Cars have been having problems with the clutch sticking to the floor. Bled the brake valve. Seemed to fix the problem, took a 30 min drive following, and clutch to the floor 2x at the end of the drive. Then, my car started to sound like a freaking wrx! BARELY made it home and it will turn over but quickly spud out. checked codes and it missed fire in 3 cylinders and small puddle under the car. I'm stuck and out of ideas other than coils.
View 3 RepliesI'm posting as a last ditch effort to try and rescue my 2001 Vw golf here's some quick details about the car then I'll go into the situation.
2001 Golf 1.8t 5speed
Euro customs stage 2 Aftermarket intake and downpipe
Still have front and rear O2 sensor and probably cat. Maybe..
Otherwise stock
201k miles
Okay so pretty much here's the rundown.. I was driving my car to work one day, then all the sudden lost complete throttle response to my car but was about to cruise at about 5-8mph to get to work and avoid towing. What is going on besides the EPC light was on and CEL was on. After work I discovered that the rear O2 sensor was hanging down and frayed.
Apparently from what I was told, that fries your ecu and put the car into a similar mode as mine. I then replaced the ecu with the euro customs ecu, I replaced the throttle pedal, and the throttle body since all I was getting was throttle codes. I am still not able to get rid of either EPC or CEL lights. The codes showing are p0638 and p2101. Yes I have tried to get the throttle body realigned or whatever you call it. However the vag com will not let you realign with the codes still in the computer which have been deleted but come back immediately.
The rear O2 is still unplugged and I still have little to no throttle response.
This is about my 1986 Lincoln Continental 5L with 93800 miles.
On Th Oct 8, I go in for my smog test. It failed. The timing has to be adjusted. I had to reschedule the test and the timing adjustment for the following Mon Oct 12.On Sat Oct 10, work needed to be done on my doors by a freelance experienced mechanic and at the end it killed my battery which I recharged.Mon Oct 12, I drive the car on the HWY 16 miles West bound then 19 miles East bound before I go for the timing adjustment and the smog re-test.While I was driving back East bound I noticed the engine sounding louder than usual yet I also thought it might a car driving by that was loud. I gave it little attention.At the exit ramp 19 miles later, when I accelerated after stopping, the car shook so much that it scared me. It was hesitating and jittering at the same time. It continued to do so while I reached the next stop over the bridge and while I drove up a hill all the way to the Smog Shop 4 miles farther.
After getting off the Freeway where I went up to 70mph I stayed between 35mph and 45mph to keep up with traffic on surface street until I reach the smog shop.There I revealed what the car just did and the mechanic advised that I get that fixed before I get it re-smogged. He was not interested in resolving the problem because it's an old car. Remembering my dad's best friend telling me several times that my dad never tuned the car since he had it in Dec 1995, I checked the car file and found that that was true and that only the spark plugs were changed in 1998 .That following Sat Oct 17, the freelance mechanic came and tuned the car with new plugs, wires, distributor cap and rotors, no timing adjustment though. Some electrical tape was wrapped over the hole on the vacuum hose nearest the distributor since he did not plan to bring a replacement in case there would have been an issue.
He claims the PCV valve to have passed his shaking check (Valve did pass the 1st smog test). He did a visual check of the fuel filter underneath the car in the back. The car ran smoothly after the job.On Mon Oct 19, before going back to the Smog Shop, I drive about 10 miles between 55mph and 65mph on the freeway and then 35mph to 45mph on surface street for about a half hour. All went well. I'm thinking the tune up fixed the hesitation/jittering/shaking problem. Once at the shop, upon adjusting the timing, the control module came apart; the plastic housing was broken in half (I have the broken part). The mechanic replaced it as well as the vacuum hose that was wrapped with tape. The car passed the Smog Test.Upon leaving the parking lot at the test station, I noticed the car hesitated/jittered just as it did last Monday, although somewhat subtle. I drove about 2 miles at 35mph, stopped and called the mechanic at the Smog station to tell him about it and he said that he had noticed the hesitation while it was running in the bay and he does not know what it could be since the car was tuned up and diplomatically indicated again that he was not interested in working on old cars.
I drove to the grocery store 2 miles away, spent about a half hour there and went home 6 miles away. The car had I guess cooled down some and therefor the jitter was subtle all the way home.In my view, and based on my experience on Mon Oct 12, it seems that that reaction (hesitation/jittering) occurs when the car reaches a certain temperature.I have not checked if the RPM jumps up or down whenever I accelerate when it jitters. One thing for sure is that when the jittering starts, it does it while the car is running and stationary, a bit more when you stop and go and more when you accelerate to a higher speed. On Mon Oct 12, I had the air on and turned it off shortly after the jittering was felt; that did not affect the intensity. On Mon Oct 19, I did not turn the air on at all.It seems that since the tune up, I can feel the car shift better and have never had issues with shifting anyways. Checked for slippage and that was negative.Fluids are always where they are to be. Motor oil and filter were changed on Oct 7.
Today, I've decided to seek a possible answer to my problem on the internet and remembered CarTalk.So far I'm finding out that it could be the Mass Air Flow Meter Sensor that needs cleaning, or an issue with the Temperature Sensor, the Balance Shaft, the Fuel Pressure Regulator, that a compression check may be needed. Keep in mind that I don't know if my car is even equipped with all that stuff since these findings are based on problem that people shared about their own cars. I must not forget to reveal that 2 of the old plugs smelled like gas and 2 were oily and very dirty (I know that the gasket on the left hand side needs to be replaced again).
I just got a 2009 RX 350 , and I noticed that driving home with full tank of gas that my range was only reading about 250 miles. This week end I filled the tank up and the range was only reading 253 miles, after driving about 130 miles the computer is showing a range of 208 miles, The tank is showing about 3/4 full. I am showing a average of 24 miles per gallon.
View 2 RepliesI have a 2004 Mazda 3s with 210k miles. Both the remote key's just stopped working. The dealership tried replaced batteries and tried reprogramming the key's but said that the computer is not accepting the keys (these are original keys). They suggested replacing the computer but in my opinion the car is not worth that much ...
I tested the remotes at autozone and they seem to transmit rf signals. The door locks or control modules work fine - the problem appears to be the remotes or the communication between ecu & remotes.
My wifes 04 v6 touareg make noises now like either a computer crunching files or an electrical fire is about to happen?? the weird thing is when i turn off the display on the dash thru the menu it stops making the noise ?? its not loud enough to hear with the stereo on but it is when its off. the sound itself seems to be coming from the center of the display area over the steering wheel.
View 2 RepliesI just bought my excursion, an 04 and the trip computer is not working, its dead, when the truck lights are on, the two buttons above light up, but thats it, its as if it has no power, I cant find a fuse for it directly?
View 10 RepliesI just bought a 2000 Saturn SC2 that had a "service engine soon" light on. I took it to the shop to get it inspected and they reset the computer and said that I needed to drive it around 100 miles to reset the computer so it would pass MO state emissions. After driving it 160 miles only two of the required have reset. I took it on the highway at 55 MPH steady for 2 miles. Actually did around 8 miles. as the shop suggested and that did not work.
View 3 RepliesI have a 2006 Lincoln zephyr. 3.0l v6. With fwd. I bought the car off Craig's list, from a private owner.
When I got it, back brakes were complete crap. Looks like never changed. Put on new rotors, new pads. The car was still vibrating, and making noises from the tires. Changed front brakes and rotors. Car was jerking when braking or at really slow speeds (0-15mph) even the jerking goes away, the vibration was still there. Went to ntb today, they changed my oil, rotated tires, and balanced front tires. The jerking gradually got better, I can't say it's there at all. As for vibration, still there, and tires in back are still a little loud. Someone told me my rim is bent? That does sound like something that could be causing this?? Another thing I have noticed is that the jerking in the car and the vibration get worse after driving for a while or when my sound system has been on for a while. Another thing today, after the oil change, I got home, and noticed a clicking sound coming from the engine. Seems as if the clicking starts after the car has been driven a little bit, then stays on until you turn it off and let it sit for a while
What it could be? IS MY CAR drive able?
I have a 1994 lincoln towncar, 55,000 original miles. I accidently put 3 gallons of E 85 in it. Then added 20 gallons of mid grade unleaded. Will my engine be damaged?
View 19 Replies06 F150 fx4 has cly 7 miss fire cly 6 has oil on plug .Check engine light comes on only if you step into the gas, The oil was low. If you drive normal the check engine light does not come on, but you can fill the miss when in gear. Change the plugs an coil add oil still no change.
View 4 RepliesOur beloved 2004 Subaru Forester has the check engine light on. We've been told that the 4th cylinder has either low or no compression. Is this fixable/worth fixing? Would you replace the engine? The car has 183K miles on it, and runs great! It is stuttering now, due to this issue, but otherwise - runs great and is in good condition!
View 11 RepliesMy 2004 Ford Freestar SEL (the 4.2L version, 123,000 miles) is missing. The computer code is P0302 which, from what I can find, indicates a misfire in cylinder 2. I had this same code at 99,000 miles and ended up having the spark plugs and wires replaced around 100K miles. It was all running fine until about a month ago and started misfiring again, badly. I thought it was related to the rain but it is doing it all the time now. At times it gets so bad, I have no power and the computer disengages my A/C (bad at this time of the year). I tried a running a fuel system cleaner that specifically mentioned cleaning the injectors, hoping the problem was simply a clogged injector, to no avail (I know I probably wasted my $10 here). I have a couple of questions:
1. Am I doing damage to the engine or transmission by continuing to drive it? I really don't have a choice but need to know how urgent it is.
2. Does this thing have a traditional distributor cap & rotor or is there an electronic ignition module the plug wires connect to?
3. Where would I find the illusive distributor or ignition module, in theory?
4. Any other theories as to the cause of the misfire (cheapest first)?