Lexus - ES300 :: 2002 - Exhaust Leak Due To Corroded Flanges?
Oct 7, 2013
My 2002 Lexus ES300 sounds and runs fine (to me) but it won't pass inspection because of an exhaust leak. The dealer says that the leak is due to the corroded connection (flanges?) between the muffler and the pipe in back of it. They claim that the only way to fix the leak is by replacing both the muffler and the pipe, to the tune of $1000. I hate replacing parts that work just fine. Is there a way to somehow seal/fix that leak in the corroded connection, or am I stuck having to replace both the pipe and the muffler in order to pass the inspection? If it would be possible to just duct tape that, I'd do it, if you know what I mean.
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This is a new phenomenon for me and from what I have read it could be the emissions system, gas cap or Catalytic. Clearing the codes only brings the lights back on when I put the car in drive or reverse. I know I can replace the gas cap (cheap) Replace the catalytic ( more expensive - since the exhaust has a rupture in the braid) and have the emissions sensor replaced (marginal cost)....
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Most times I try and open the drivers door I have to use the unlock switch to open it. There are times when it opens w/o having to do so.
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I have a question regarding a leak i have in the manifold of my toyota camry 2002 2.4 cylinder. the engine check light is coming up and after a check on the mechanic there is a leak in the manifold where the catalytic converter is attached. when you put your hands near the pipe, you can feel air coming out. See the image attached.
The link is in the part mark as X. The catalytic converter is the one which is circled. [URL] ....
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First car is an '02 echo and has some things that need to be done. Small exhaust leak, but i don't know where the leak is, how to find it, new one? Where to get replacement taillights, hole in mine.
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I own a 1996 es300. The car was driving fine. All of a sudden it could not go more than 20mph.
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I have 2003 Lexus ES-300 with 79000 miles and recently we tried to jump start car with another car battery, car did start but noticed ABS light came on we even replaced new battery from dealer but can not get rid of ABS light. Dealer was asking for $ just to diagnose the problem, therefore decided to diagnose on my own. I noticed that ABS #2 fuse was blown out in fuse relay box, purchase same type 40a fuse from Auto Zone but as soon as installed it blew up again, did disconnect battery negative terminal and installed another same fuse but as soon as connected battery it blows up again. Where the short might be?
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I have a 2000 lexus es 300, last winter I put a new battery in it because it had been going dead. During the summer and fall it was fine but now this winter it's dying again. I don't drive it too often (once every week or two) but every time I go to drive it it's dead again. It doesn't seem to just be a cold thing (it will start within hours and typically days of last being jumped). It has also been known to die from idle, the most recent time I was waiting for my girlfriend at the airport and I was idling in the queue, I eventually got out to see if I could see her waiting somewhere else, so I turned the car off. When I got back in my car it was dead. Is energy leaking somewhere?
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So I did the seafoam trick and I came to the conculsion that my exhaust leak is coming from either the manifold or the flex pipe. There was no smoke coming from under the car only a mist of smoking coming up from the back of the engine, probably by the manifold or the flex pipe. I do not see any visible cracking per say. I have attached a picture of the end of the flex pipe and it almost looks like someone may have tried to seal it before? I don't know if that is normal or not as seen in the picture.
2002 Volkswagen Golf 2.0 ...
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1999 Lexus ES 300. 120k miles.Check engine light. Gives code 0420. Mechanic says it's ethanol gas combined with narrow tolerances of these models. Thing is, I think I recall this on my 03 Avalon happening and eventually turning out to be an oxygen sensor. However, my memory could easily have this mixed up.
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i have a 2002 250 with the 7.3. i put a mbrp aluminized 4in turbo back with a FTE 30in resonator. I'm getting a lot of noise in the cab sounds like its where the turbo goes into the 4in pipe. the muffler guy said its because of the bigger pipe and not a leak. is there anything i can do to get rid of the excess noise.
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I have a 2001 Lexus ES 300 and each time I start the car the RPMs will dive straight back to 0 and the car will die unless I keep my foot on the gas pedal (foot off pedal = RPMs drop to 0 and car dies). However, once I get up to speed and drive for a while, the RPMs will eventually return to normal and I can take my foot off the pedal without worrying about the RMPs dropping to 0 and having the car stall.
This problem used to happen sporadically but now it happens almost every time I start the car. I’ve taken it to two separate mechanics (both “repaired” the problem but it started to come back after a week of driving, I’ve forgotten what changes they did to it as this happened a while ago – but from now on I will make sure to document what’s being repaired so I can finally get this problem fixed).
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I have a 1995 Lexus ES300 with 130,000 miles. This car is basically a rebadged Camry of the same vintage. Occasionally, when the car sits for extended periods (overnight or while I'm at work) and I try to start it, I get nothing. Not a click--nothing. This will never happen if I pop into a grocery store or other errands that are an hour or less.I've tried jiggling the floor shifter to see if it was the neutral safety switch and no luck. I've also tried putting the car in neutral with no results. I can also move the steering wheel rapidly left-right and push hard down onto the brake pedal with no obvious results. Eventually after 10 tries or so the starter motor will engage and it just starts. Could it be the ignition (where I put the key in)?
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I have a Lexus es300 1995 and lately its been acting crazy. It all started when I had to push the pedal all the way down just to get to 60 mph and when i took my foot off the pedal the car almost stopped completely, would not coast well. Then the check engine light came on. Took it to dealer got codes p0500 and p0720..they said get a new ecm and dash cluster. Got both used from a junkyard. Car drove fine, then check engine light came on again and drove crazy again.
I was told the ecm needed no programming just plug and play ..is this right? Did I get a bad ecm? Coud it be another problem?
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My 05 Gx has the infamous manifold exhaust leak on the driver side. I'm planing to change it myself I don't think it should be that tough.
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I just got my 2016 ES300 and I noticed that every time I start the car, the default view goes straight to the navigation screen. Is there a way to change it to something else or to the last screen it was before I turn off the car?
I ask is because in my previous car (Avalon), if I was on the radio screen and I turn off the car and turn it back on again, the radio screen would come up.
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Strange ticking noise that you can hear in the cabin sounds almost like a exhaust leak or a fan blade ticking something under the hood.. I have had the dealer check it they say nothing is wrong i just can't believe a 75k car can have this noise...
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My GX had developed yet another issue. To start off my car has an exhaust leak presumably at the head. Thats what i been told. This condition would throw a P0430 code ( catalyst system efficiency below ) once or twice a week, which id just erase with my plug in tool. Im not sure if the new developed issue is related to it, but now the engine is running rough especially noticeable between 1000-2300 rpm. Feels like misfire. When driving i can feel a drone or a frequent shake if rpms are in that range or when unloading the motor and rpms are dropping. No codes! Timing belt was changed at 90k miles car has 150k now. Not sure if its due for another one now and this can be the cause.
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I tore it apart and there was no gasket or donut ring in the flange. Is there supposed to be a gasket or donut ring? I can feel the leak with my hand. I have retightened & it still "tick-ticks" real bad.
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I just purchased a 2003 V10 with 270 000kms. The truck had had regular maintenance. It has an exhaust leak and runs a little bit rough. Could the exhaust leak cause the truck to run a little rough or am I dealing with another issue?
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I have a 97 Expedition with the 5.4 engine and 160k miles. Recently while having other work done I was told that I had an exhaust manifold leak due to broken rusted bolts.
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