Lexus - ES300 :: 2003 - ABS Light Came On?
May 8, 2012
I have 2003 Lexus ES-300 with 79000 miles and recently we tried to jump start car with another car battery, car did start but noticed ABS light came on we even replaced new battery from dealer but can not get rid of ABS light. Dealer was asking for $ just to diagnose the problem, therefore decided to diagnose on my own. I noticed that ABS #2 fuse was blown out in fuse relay box, purchase same type 40a fuse from Auto Zone but as soon as installed it blew up again, did disconnect battery negative terminal and installed another same fuse but as soon as connected battery it blows up again. Where the short might be?
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I have a Lexus es300 1995 and lately its been acting crazy. It all started when I had to push the pedal all the way down just to get to 60 mph and when i took my foot off the pedal the car almost stopped completely, would not coast well. Then the check engine light came on. Took it to dealer got codes p0500 and p0720..they said get a new ecm and dash cluster. Got both used from a junkyard. Car drove fine, then check engine light came on again and drove crazy again.
I was told the ecm needed no programming just plug and play ..is this right? Did I get a bad ecm? Coud it be another problem?
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I own a 1996 es300. The car was driving fine. All of a sudden it could not go more than 20mph.
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I have a 2000 lexus es 300, last winter I put a new battery in it because it had been going dead. During the summer and fall it was fine but now this winter it's dying again. I don't drive it too often (once every week or two) but every time I go to drive it it's dead again. It doesn't seem to just be a cold thing (it will start within hours and typically days of last being jumped). It has also been known to die from idle, the most recent time I was waiting for my girlfriend at the airport and I was idling in the queue, I eventually got out to see if I could see her waiting somewhere else, so I turned the car off. When I got back in my car it was dead. Is energy leaking somewhere?
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This is a new phenomenon for me and from what I have read it could be the emissions system, gas cap or Catalytic. Clearing the codes only brings the lights back on when I put the car in drive or reverse. I know I can replace the gas cap (cheap) Replace the catalytic ( more expensive - since the exhaust has a rupture in the braid) and have the emissions sensor replaced (marginal cost)....
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1999 Lexus ES 300. 120k miles.Check engine light. Gives code 0420. Mechanic says it's ethanol gas combined with narrow tolerances of these models. Thing is, I think I recall this on my 03 Avalon happening and eventually turning out to be an oxygen sensor. However, my memory could easily have this mixed up.
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I have a 2001 Lexus ES 300 and each time I start the car the RPMs will dive straight back to 0 and the car will die unless I keep my foot on the gas pedal (foot off pedal = RPMs drop to 0 and car dies). However, once I get up to speed and drive for a while, the RPMs will eventually return to normal and I can take my foot off the pedal without worrying about the RMPs dropping to 0 and having the car stall.
This problem used to happen sporadically but now it happens almost every time I start the car. I’ve taken it to two separate mechanics (both “repaired” the problem but it started to come back after a week of driving, I’ve forgotten what changes they did to it as this happened a while ago – but from now on I will make sure to document what’s being repaired so I can finally get this problem fixed).
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My 2002 Lexus ES300 sounds and runs fine (to me) but it won't pass inspection because of an exhaust leak. The dealer says that the leak is due to the corroded connection (flanges?) between the muffler and the pipe in back of it. They claim that the only way to fix the leak is by replacing both the muffler and the pipe, to the tune of $1000. I hate replacing parts that work just fine. Is there a way to somehow seal/fix that leak in the corroded connection, or am I stuck having to replace both the pipe and the muffler in order to pass the inspection? If it would be possible to just duct tape that, I'd do it, if you know what I mean.
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Most times I try and open the drivers door I have to use the unlock switch to open it. There are times when it opens w/o having to do so.
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I have a 1995 Lexus ES300 with 130,000 miles. This car is basically a rebadged Camry of the same vintage. Occasionally, when the car sits for extended periods (overnight or while I'm at work) and I try to start it, I get nothing. Not a click--nothing. This will never happen if I pop into a grocery store or other errands that are an hour or less.I've tried jiggling the floor shifter to see if it was the neutral safety switch and no luck. I've also tried putting the car in neutral with no results. I can also move the steering wheel rapidly left-right and push hard down onto the brake pedal with no obvious results. Eventually after 10 tries or so the starter motor will engage and it just starts. Could it be the ignition (where I put the key in)?
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I just got my 2016 ES300 and I noticed that every time I start the car, the default view goes straight to the navigation screen. Is there a way to change it to something else or to the last screen it was before I turn off the car?
I ask is because in my previous car (Avalon), if I was on the radio screen and I turn off the car and turn it back on again, the radio screen would come up.
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I have a 1995 Lexus ES300 with 130,000 miles on it. When I reverse, I get a low-pitch growling and as as soon as I apply the brakes by a high-pitch, ungodly screech. This noise is definitely coming from the rear wheel areas. I'm not sure which tire is the culprit (I hear both sides from while listening from both the inside and outside). It happens frequently but is particularly bad on rainy, snowy, misty, or high humidity days. Two years ago I replaced the pads and rotors. At this point, the pads look to have about 40% life on them yet. This problem started happening about a year ago.
My initial thoughts were that it was just rusting because of the frequency on high moisture days. But both noises are way too loud for that. My second speculation was that the emergency brake was catching, but after examining it I think not. I've taken the entire assembly (brakes, rotors calipers, and emergency brake) at each tire apart and looked for any obvious issues that look incorrect. No luck. I've also applied brake quiet with similar results. Now my thoughts are that the low pitch is the rotors being warped. But that doesn't explain the screech and why it only occurs in reverse.
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I own a 2004 LE with the I4. How to convert our dull camry automatic shifter to the cooler es300 gated shifter? I know it takes some re wiring, and the shift linkage might be differant because of the I4 to v6 difference. I have a couple es300 at my local junk yard with gated shifters. I think in other markets outside the U.S. you could get the ES in a four cylinder with the gates shifter.
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About month ago, the CHECK ENGINE, VSC, and VSC OFF lights came on in the dash of my '03 SC430 (~175k miles). Took it to the dealer and they read the codes; indicating a bad O2 sensor. They replaced it, and the lights went off. A few days later, the lights came back on. The lights remained ON until this past weekend.
On Sunday, i went to start the car in the morning and the thing wouldn't turn over. Turns out the battery was dead. The label indicated it was 5yrs old. So i bought a new battery. After installation, i noticed the error lights were no longer illuminated on the dash, but just figured it was due to the fact that the battery was disconnected during installation. But after driving it extensively since then, the lights have remained off.
Something else i've noticed since installing the new battery is the lack of the "rotten egg" smell from the exhaust. Before the change, i noticed a significant decrease in acceleration and the emissions smelled very bad. But for the past few days, i've noticed a dramatic increase in power and cleaner smelling emissions. Not sure if they're related...
Could the check engine lights have been the result of my battery dying? I'm not sure why they haven't come back on since the battery replacement. Nor a reason why i'm noticing improved performance and better smelling emissions.
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The red battery light on my 2003 gx470 with 106k miles came on while starting the truck up today. I had the alternator tested by my mechanic and it was outputting 13.0v -13.1v which was low but not causing any loss of power. The battery on two years old and tested out fine. Nothing was flickering, no loss of electrical components, etc. It's the original alternator and I'm going on a 1000 mile round trip vacation this weekend for 10 days I so decided to swap out the alternator since if it was "going" I didn't want it going 500 miles from home. My mechanic does the swap and starts the truck up with no issues and no red light on. Lets it run for 15 minutes and turns off the truck. 20 minutes later they start the truck up to switch lifts so they could balance and rotate the tires and boom the light goes on again? Turns it off and on a few times...light stays on. After testing everything out My mechanic decides it must be a bad alternator or the regulator inside the alternator and gets a different one from a different manufacturer, a Duralast this time from AutoZone. Installs it and the red light comes on immediately. The alternator is putting out 14v.
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Like the subject says, I have been noticing over the last 2 months in my 03 GX470 that the interior lights and open door dash light come on when accelerating.
-The issue is exacerbated in cold weather. I have double checked all doors and rear hatch are closed.
-I have gone around and checked all door sensors are functioning, not sticky, etc.
-I climbed in the rear hatch and had my wife shut it. When I push on the plastic under the window, the lights come on. When I push on the glass itself (and push MUCH harder then on the plastic) the lights do not come on.
Clearly I have an issue in the rear hatch trim area.
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I bought my first Lexus, great car. 2003 GX470 with 106k. I have had one problem with the fuse for the dome light. This issue has been on going since I bought the vehicle a couple months back and I can usually fix the problem by just replacing the fuse. Now when I try to replace the fuse, the fuse sparks and blows before I can even put it into the slot. Obviously there is something going on here that won't allow the fuse to be inserted before blowing. How to rectify this issue?
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Just wondering if RC owners have noticed if the memory setting buttons on the drivers door panel forward of the door lock illuminate in low light conditions. I could swear they were illuminated at one time but now are not..
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Thursday driving home from work, the thing started dinging and all sorts of lights started flashing at me. I looked in the manual and (finally) found that it is the TPMS. The orange light on the left side blinks for 1 minute and then stays on steady. I also see "Check System" in the display under the speedometer and there is a red light with an explanation point (!) on the right side. Checked all tire pressure. All were at 30 PSI. Checked spare, it was good. Manual says if it blinks and stays steady, contact your dealer. Called...they can't look at it until Feb. 12. I drive 40 miles a day on average. Not a lot, but by 2/12 that is several hundred miles. what could be wrong and if i should still be driving this car?
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VSC & engine light come on every few weeks. I disconnect battery to clear. Just figured out my headlights work fine unless these lights are on. When the lights are on my drivers side dim light will not come on. Clear the codes the light works fine. 06 gs300 / 228k miles...
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08 RX350 with ~100K miles. Two weeks ago the Check Engine/TRAC light were on, VSC light blinks, so I tightened the gas cap, and pull the negative and cleared the code. Hoping this is just a gas cap issue.
2 weeks later all those lights are back again, so my mechanic pulled the code and came up with P0128. He told me it should be the problem with the Coolant Temperature Sensor. The water pump, thermostat was replaced last year and coolant level is OK. No issue with coolant temperature and the car drives like normal. My mechanic cleared the code and told me to drive it again until the lights come back and he will pull the code again.
08 RX350 AWD
08 Avalon Touring
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