Lexus - ES300 :: New Battery / Die From Idle
Mar 3, 2014
I have a 2000 lexus es 300, last winter I put a new battery in it because it had been going dead. During the summer and fall it was fine but now this winter it's dying again. I don't drive it too often (once every week or two) but every time I go to drive it it's dead again. It doesn't seem to just be a cold thing (it will start within hours and typically days of last being jumped). It has also been known to die from idle, the most recent time I was waiting for my girlfriend at the airport and I was idling in the queue, I eventually got out to see if I could see her waiting somewhere else, so I turned the car off. When I got back in my car it was dead. Is energy leaking somewhere?
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I own a 1996 es300. The car was driving fine. All of a sudden it could not go more than 20mph.
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I have 2003 Lexus ES-300 with 79000 miles and recently we tried to jump start car with another car battery, car did start but noticed ABS light came on we even replaced new battery from dealer but can not get rid of ABS light. Dealer was asking for $ just to diagnose the problem, therefore decided to diagnose on my own. I noticed that ABS #2 fuse was blown out in fuse relay box, purchase same type 40a fuse from Auto Zone but as soon as installed it blew up again, did disconnect battery negative terminal and installed another same fuse but as soon as connected battery it blows up again. Where the short might be?
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This is a new phenomenon for me and from what I have read it could be the emissions system, gas cap or Catalytic. Clearing the codes only brings the lights back on when I put the car in drive or reverse. I know I can replace the gas cap (cheap) Replace the catalytic ( more expensive - since the exhaust has a rupture in the braid) and have the emissions sensor replaced (marginal cost)....
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1999 Lexus ES 300. 120k miles.Check engine light. Gives code 0420. Mechanic says it's ethanol gas combined with narrow tolerances of these models. Thing is, I think I recall this on my 03 Avalon happening and eventually turning out to be an oxygen sensor. However, my memory could easily have this mixed up.
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I have a 2001 Lexus ES 300 and each time I start the car the RPMs will dive straight back to 0 and the car will die unless I keep my foot on the gas pedal (foot off pedal = RPMs drop to 0 and car dies). However, once I get up to speed and drive for a while, the RPMs will eventually return to normal and I can take my foot off the pedal without worrying about the RMPs dropping to 0 and having the car stall.
This problem used to happen sporadically but now it happens almost every time I start the car. I’ve taken it to two separate mechanics (both “repaired” the problem but it started to come back after a week of driving, I’ve forgotten what changes they did to it as this happened a while ago – but from now on I will make sure to document what’s being repaired so I can finally get this problem fixed).
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My 2002 Lexus ES300 sounds and runs fine (to me) but it won't pass inspection because of an exhaust leak. The dealer says that the leak is due to the corroded connection (flanges?) between the muffler and the pipe in back of it. They claim that the only way to fix the leak is by replacing both the muffler and the pipe, to the tune of $1000. I hate replacing parts that work just fine. Is there a way to somehow seal/fix that leak in the corroded connection, or am I stuck having to replace both the pipe and the muffler in order to pass the inspection? If it would be possible to just duct tape that, I'd do it, if you know what I mean.
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Most times I try and open the drivers door I have to use the unlock switch to open it. There are times when it opens w/o having to do so.
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I have a 1995 Lexus ES300 with 130,000 miles. This car is basically a rebadged Camry of the same vintage. Occasionally, when the car sits for extended periods (overnight or while I'm at work) and I try to start it, I get nothing. Not a click--nothing. This will never happen if I pop into a grocery store or other errands that are an hour or less.I've tried jiggling the floor shifter to see if it was the neutral safety switch and no luck. I've also tried putting the car in neutral with no results. I can also move the steering wheel rapidly left-right and push hard down onto the brake pedal with no obvious results. Eventually after 10 tries or so the starter motor will engage and it just starts. Could it be the ignition (where I put the key in)?
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I have a Lexus es300 1995 and lately its been acting crazy. It all started when I had to push the pedal all the way down just to get to 60 mph and when i took my foot off the pedal the car almost stopped completely, would not coast well. Then the check engine light came on. Took it to dealer got codes p0500 and p0720..they said get a new ecm and dash cluster. Got both used from a junkyard. Car drove fine, then check engine light came on again and drove crazy again.
I was told the ecm needed no programming just plug and play ..is this right? Did I get a bad ecm? Coud it be another problem?
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I just got my 2016 ES300 and I noticed that every time I start the car, the default view goes straight to the navigation screen. Is there a way to change it to something else or to the last screen it was before I turn off the car?
I ask is because in my previous car (Avalon), if I was on the radio screen and I turn off the car and turn it back on again, the radio screen would come up.
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I have a 1995 Lexus ES300 with 130,000 miles on it. When I reverse, I get a low-pitch growling and as as soon as I apply the brakes by a high-pitch, ungodly screech. This noise is definitely coming from the rear wheel areas. I'm not sure which tire is the culprit (I hear both sides from while listening from both the inside and outside). It happens frequently but is particularly bad on rainy, snowy, misty, or high humidity days. Two years ago I replaced the pads and rotors. At this point, the pads look to have about 40% life on them yet. This problem started happening about a year ago.
My initial thoughts were that it was just rusting because of the frequency on high moisture days. But both noises are way too loud for that. My second speculation was that the emergency brake was catching, but after examining it I think not. I've taken the entire assembly (brakes, rotors calipers, and emergency brake) at each tire apart and looked for any obvious issues that look incorrect. No luck. I've also applied brake quiet with similar results. Now my thoughts are that the low pitch is the rotors being warped. But that doesn't explain the screech and why it only occurs in reverse.
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My car battery was bad and took it to get it exchanged for a new one. Car was without the battery for probably around 6 hours. Came home and installed the new battery and car fired right up but I noticed that it idles at around 400-450 rpm. This is with the ac on or off. AC does not increase the RPM any. But I also noticed that at this RPM, the AC doesnt blow any cold air. As soon as I barely press the throttle and it gets to where it used to idle prior (600-700) the AC blows cold again. The car has never idled this low prior. I took the battery out for around 2 minutes and still the same thing. Ive also read about leaving it disconnected for 30-60 min and see if it works.
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I own a 2004 LE with the I4. How to convert our dull camry automatic shifter to the cooler es300 gated shifter? I know it takes some re wiring, and the shift linkage might be differant because of the I4 to v6 difference. I have a couple es300 at my local junk yard with gated shifters. I think in other markets outside the U.S. you could get the ES in a four cylinder with the gates shifter.
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Just picked up a Ctek 3300 battery charger for my 2008 LS460L since we only drive it a few days a week. Is it safe to connect directly to the battery under the hood?
Where is the ideal spot to jump start on an LS? Reason I ask is that my BMW 6series have the battery at the back trunk but for any charging or jump starts it must be done under the hood where there is a terminal that goes to the battery.
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I replaced the battery and the engine idle went from a reasonable 650 to 450 rpm's.
The engine is surprisingly smooth at that engine speed but the low idle speed makes it less smooth on take off from stop.
Right after the battery was installed one of the radio functions was backwards, AUX and CD were reversed, soon after it went back to normal.
Is there a way to reset the computer to stock, something makes me think this is the problem.
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Camry 2003 XLE. Stopped @ store yesterday turned off lights locked car. Came out lights on battery dead. Portable charger started it right up. Drove home 2 minutes shut off car started right up. Went to Advanced Auto they tested and said bad battery. Went to repair ship 2 get second opinion they ran test twice that said battery and charging system OK. Said corroded posts issue. They cleaned hooked battery up and car wouldn't idle. They ran test again now said both battery and alternator bad. They also checked computer for error codes and nada. Upon advice from Toyota dealer drove around for an hour and gradually was getting better. FYI car died at least 10 times when idling during drive but started right up. Parked car and left idling with AC, lights, etc all on. Checked a couple times still running. Went out 15 minutes later car off battery again dead.
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Well, since I had to fix the traction battery. The car I bought was a salvage vehicle that had been rebuilt.
On pesky problem was found after I'd had the car for about 4 months. I let it sit for three days. When I went to start it nothing happened. The 12 vdc Aux battery died. It tried charging it and it wouldn't charge. I bought a new aftermarket battery at WalMart and installed it. Merrily being led down the garden path I figured I'd not see that pesky problem again.
I was wrong. It continued. About the time I was going to tackle it, I moved and that took the next 4 months and the Prius sat idle when the HV Traction battery error cropped up.
This week I figured since all the carpets and shrouds were out of the trunk for the battery repair I'd look at the luggage courtesy light, it was the most obvious cause of an error. Sure enough the lamp would not shut off even though it seemed to operate correctly. It pulls up ground and turns on the light.
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So my R32 idles high when stopped and I googled it and people said that a new battery fixed the issue. I replaced the battery and it stopped doing it for a few days. Went on a long road trip (1200 miles) and it did it again. Been a few months still does it.
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today I replaced the battery on our 2002 Camry SE 2.4l because it was incredibly slow to crank today...but it did crank. So i get a Duralast Gold to replace a Toyota TrueStart battery, and it started up fine. However, it was idling at 200-400 RPMs, so its already not right. So I drive it a quick mile or so, and when letting off the gas the RPMs drop to 200-400 while going down the street! Coming to a stop, it really wanted to stall out. Couple stops later, it did stall out, and the Check Engine light, Battery light, and Oil light all came on. Trying to restart it it cranked, started, but then immediately died. You know when you start it the RPM needle goes high and then comes down a bit? It does that, but the needle won't stop and it just goes to 0, and throws the Check Engine, battery, and oil light. I finally got it cranked, and all 3 previously mentioned lights are off when its running. It has done it one other time about 3 months ago when I disconnected the negative battery terminal for some work, and it did the same exact thing. It ended up just fixing itself, but obviously not since its rough starting and the problem came back the next time I disconnected the battery.
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I just purchased a 2004 Prius. When I am driving the battery seems to work fine but yet the battery loses charge when I am sitting in the car while running on idle. The battery goes down to 2 bars and the engine has to kick in to charge the battery. I have no check engine lights. Does this mean my battery needs to be replaced? If so then what are your thought on rebuilt batteries.
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