Lexus - ES300 :: 2001 - Stalls When Foot Removed From Gas Pedal
Jul 18, 2014
I have a 2001 Lexus ES 300 and each time I start the car the RPMs will dive straight back to 0 and the car will die unless I keep my foot on the gas pedal (foot off pedal = RPMs drop to 0 and car dies). However, once I get up to speed and drive for a while, the RPMs will eventually return to normal and I can take my foot off the pedal without worrying about the RMPs dropping to 0 and having the car stall.
This problem used to happen sporadically but now it happens almost every time I start the car. I’ve taken it to two separate mechanics (both “repaired” the problem but it started to come back after a week of driving, I’ve forgotten what changes they did to it as this happened a while ago – but from now on I will make sure to document what’s being repaired so I can finally get this problem fixed).
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As the title says, I have an 02 Supercrew with the 5.4. The engine starts when cold and runs fine but sometimes when I start it hot after running for a bit, it will stall out unless I keep my foot on the gas pedal. This seems to only happen on hot days. It was about 90 F here yesterday and I drove it to a shopping mall after supper - maybe 5 miles. It sat for maybe 20 minutes and when I re-started it, it stalled out.
The tach needle just drops slowly to zero and the engine stops. It will re-start without any problem but will only keep running if I keep my foot on the gas and keep the revs up a bit. It has done this a few times in the past few years and only on hot days after it has been running and then sat for a few minutes.
What I should look at? It does not throw any codes and generally runs ok after a few minutes. For example, last night I managed to keep it going by shifting into neutral when required until I got back on the road. I drove 2 or 3 miles and at the next light, it acted like nothing happened.
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I am a shoe size 10 and when my foot is in some positions over the gas pedal I can feel my toes bump up against something hard. Upon further investigations it seems this is the metal hanger which the gas pedal sits on. I'm not sure anything can fix this issue but I am certainly considering replacing the pedals.
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If I dont constantly keep my foot on the gas pedal then my car will die.
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I own a 1996 es300. The car was driving fine. All of a sudden it could not go more than 20mph.
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I have 2003 Lexus ES-300 with 79000 miles and recently we tried to jump start car with another car battery, car did start but noticed ABS light came on we even replaced new battery from dealer but can not get rid of ABS light. Dealer was asking for $ just to diagnose the problem, therefore decided to diagnose on my own. I noticed that ABS #2 fuse was blown out in fuse relay box, purchase same type 40a fuse from Auto Zone but as soon as installed it blew up again, did disconnect battery negative terminal and installed another same fuse but as soon as connected battery it blows up again. Where the short might be?
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I have a 2000 lexus es 300, last winter I put a new battery in it because it had been going dead. During the summer and fall it was fine but now this winter it's dying again. I don't drive it too often (once every week or two) but every time I go to drive it it's dead again. It doesn't seem to just be a cold thing (it will start within hours and typically days of last being jumped). It has also been known to die from idle, the most recent time I was waiting for my girlfriend at the airport and I was idling in the queue, I eventually got out to see if I could see her waiting somewhere else, so I turned the car off. When I got back in my car it was dead. Is energy leaking somewhere?
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This is a new phenomenon for me and from what I have read it could be the emissions system, gas cap or Catalytic. Clearing the codes only brings the lights back on when I put the car in drive or reverse. I know I can replace the gas cap (cheap) Replace the catalytic ( more expensive - since the exhaust has a rupture in the braid) and have the emissions sensor replaced (marginal cost)....
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1999 Lexus ES 300. 120k miles.Check engine light. Gives code 0420. Mechanic says it's ethanol gas combined with narrow tolerances of these models. Thing is, I think I recall this on my 03 Avalon happening and eventually turning out to be an oxygen sensor. However, my memory could easily have this mixed up.
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My 2002 Lexus ES300 sounds and runs fine (to me) but it won't pass inspection because of an exhaust leak. The dealer says that the leak is due to the corroded connection (flanges?) between the muffler and the pipe in back of it. They claim that the only way to fix the leak is by replacing both the muffler and the pipe, to the tune of $1000. I hate replacing parts that work just fine. Is there a way to somehow seal/fix that leak in the corroded connection, or am I stuck having to replace both the pipe and the muffler in order to pass the inspection? If it would be possible to just duct tape that, I'd do it, if you know what I mean.
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Most times I try and open the drivers door I have to use the unlock switch to open it. There are times when it opens w/o having to do so.
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I have a 1995 Lexus ES300 with 130,000 miles. This car is basically a rebadged Camry of the same vintage. Occasionally, when the car sits for extended periods (overnight or while I'm at work) and I try to start it, I get nothing. Not a click--nothing. This will never happen if I pop into a grocery store or other errands that are an hour or less.I've tried jiggling the floor shifter to see if it was the neutral safety switch and no luck. I've also tried putting the car in neutral with no results. I can also move the steering wheel rapidly left-right and push hard down onto the brake pedal with no obvious results. Eventually after 10 tries or so the starter motor will engage and it just starts. Could it be the ignition (where I put the key in)?
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I have a Lexus es300 1995 and lately its been acting crazy. It all started when I had to push the pedal all the way down just to get to 60 mph and when i took my foot off the pedal the car almost stopped completely, would not coast well. Then the check engine light came on. Took it to dealer got codes p0500 and p0720..they said get a new ecm and dash cluster. Got both used from a junkyard. Car drove fine, then check engine light came on again and drove crazy again.
I was told the ecm needed no programming just plug and play ..is this right? Did I get a bad ecm? Coud it be another problem?
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I just got my 2016 ES300 and I noticed that every time I start the car, the default view goes straight to the navigation screen. Is there a way to change it to something else or to the last screen it was before I turn off the car?
I ask is because in my previous car (Avalon), if I was on the radio screen and I turn off the car and turn it back on again, the radio screen would come up.
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I have just replaced the front pads and discs on my car. a 2000 115 tdi sport. Now I have a problem - the brake light is not always going out when you take your foot off the pedal. And it feels like the brakes are binding, but when you jack it up the wheels are all running freely ...
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I started having issues with my clutch pedal "dropping out" from under my foot. Not necessarily during a shift. It still works but will stay down towards the bottom of the travel and after either lifting with my toe or pressing it a few times it kicks back up and usually stays up. Is this my clutch dieing? or something hydraulic related? Hoping I don't have to replace clutch. Searched R32 forum for anything similar and couldn't find anything.
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My friend has a prius and had her brake pedal sawed off modification. Funny cause she says that her foot is always slipping off the brakes now. It was always a bogus fix, to fix nothing caused by errant drivers.
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I have a 2016 Elantra that was bought brand new in October of last year. Since about January, the front end of the car bucks when taking your foot off the accelerator to slow down. The brakes do not need to be applied to cause this to happen. When I say it bucks, it happens repeatedly for 3-5 seconds and everyone in he car can feel it. This happens mainly when going at speeds of 20-30 mph and when going short distances such as stop sign to stop sign or in bumper to bumper traffic. If I put the car in neutral the bucking instantly stops. Unfortunately this doesn't happen every day so the dealer has not been able to replicate it as of yet.
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I just bought a 2013 Passat SE 2.5 about a month ago. Since driving it home I have noticed that the brake pedal sort of sticks when I let my foot up off it. It doesn't happen during hard braking, just normal to light, especially when I'm riding the brake in heavy traffic. When I lightly press the pedal in, it feels like something is sticking and again when I let off it has the same feeling and it will sometimes not come up with my foot, but it rather slaps/taps the bottom of my foot while returning to position.
I took the car back to the dealer to check out and of course the service tech didn't feel what I felt. So the let me drive a loaner Passat, same model, and I felt the SAME sensation in its brake pedal. At the time I just chalked it up to "that just must be how these are", but it's kind of annoying and I don't totally feel it's right. What is causing this?
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Have a 06 Grand Caravan 3.8L that suddenly quit and would start back up easily enough, but one had to keep foot on the gas to keep it going.
I pulled two codes:
P0123-throttle postion sensor 1 high
P0508-IAC valve sensor circuit low/undercurrent
So far I have removed the IAC and cleaned it with throttle body cleaner, cleaned throttle body out as well with the spray, installed new EGR since it got mangled trying to remove it for cleaning. Removed the TPS connector and with key on, took measurements and I am getting a reference voltage proper ( almost 5 volts). I then back probed the connector once it was plugged back in and again things checked out, the reference lead was varying between .7 and 4.7 volts as I manually moved the throttle plate.
I had switched out the IAC with a used one, from an engine that had been running before being parked, but it made no change.
Note: I have a new TPS but am holding off on changing it until I investigate whether or not it may have a clogged fuel filter causing it to stall at idle speed. Now if can just locate where it is..the sketchy diagrams in my Alldata program are useful.
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There is a low buzz sound when I have my foot on the gas pedal. It doesn't seem to effect acceleration or anything. At first I thought it was a wheel bearing but the noise disappears when I remove my foot from the pedal. The Sebring has 65K miles on it.
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